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notapplicable
Nov 2, 2009, 6:09 PM
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The one at the first pitch belay/rap station of Pedestal.
That sofa cushion sized slab of stone you slung was very precariously perched on edge and moved easily. When I tried to remove the webbing it was already pinched underneath from having shifted (probably during a rappel) and had suffered minor damage. After I leaned the rock forward and freed the webbing, I lifted it a few inches and then pulled, the bottom slipped easily. NOT COOL!
That thing was positioned such that if it fell while being used as a belay it would land right on the belayer and if it fell during a rap it could easily cut the rope, if not trundle right on to your head. It's one thing to put yourself in danger but do not set traps for your fellow nOObs. It would be all to easy for an unobservant beginner to see the manky old tat on the existing fixed anchor (probably what inspired you to "back it up") and shun it in favor of your shiny new webbing. Rapping off of the two together would be dangerous enough, rapping off just the chunk of stone would almost certainly = disaster. Also, it's a minor consideration given all the other dangers associated with the set up but there were no rings or quicklinks on your webbing. Webbing will cut/melt very quickly with a rope being pulled through it like that.
I cannot emphasize this enough. IF YOU ARE INEXPERIENCED BUT DOUBT THE INTEGRITY OF A FIXED BELAY STATION, BACK UP WHAT IS ALREADY THERE AND THAT IS ALL. DO NOT MODIFY THE ARRANGEMENT, DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE EXISTING GEAR, JUST ADD AN EXTRA LAYER OF REDUNDANCY AND LEAVE IT FOR OTHERS TO FIX.
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notapplicable
Nov 2, 2009, 6:17 PM
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Now that I've gotten the rant out of the way, I'll see if I can say something constructive.
First off, you were right, the existing webbing was total shit and was probably 10+ years old. It needed to be replaced.
The appropriate way to fix the situation was to remove all of the existing software and replace it with redundant loops of new webbing. Since you were kind enough to leave two pieces of new webbing I used yours to replace what was there. If it was the feature itself you didn't trust, you could have backed it up with a nut placement. It would have been bootied later but your rappel would have been backed up.
And FWIW I trundled the block (I hesitate to even call it that, it just wasn't that big) so it shouldn't be an issue in the future.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Nov 2, 2009, 6:19 PM)
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justroberto
Nov 2, 2009, 9:55 PM
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If it was so unsafe, why didn't I die while toproping it for three hours?
But seriously, there's "multipitch" at the Rag?
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minibiter
Nov 2, 2009, 10:52 PM
Post #5 of 19
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Pedestal... Donde Esta Pedestal? I don't recognize this route...
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justroberto
Nov 2, 2009, 11:30 PM
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minibiter wrote: Pedestal... Donde Esta Pedestal? I don't recognize this route...
You know, the 80 foot 5.6 at Summit Wall. Easily recognizable, as the guy above you will be mercilessly projecting it every weekend for the next few months.
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notapplicable
Nov 3, 2009, 12:58 AM
Post #8 of 19
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justroberto wrote: If it was so unsafe, why didn't I die while toproping it for three hours?
I will say this though, I'm not terribly risk averse but the thought of someone weighting that set up scared the hell out of me.
In reply to: But seriously, there's "multipitch" at the Rag?
Well no, not really. There is a rap anchor for people who don't want to bother scrambling all the way to the top when they're just trying to show a new guy the moderates though.
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notapplicable
Nov 3, 2009, 1:02 AM
Post #9 of 19
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west_by_god_virginia wrote: stfu noob.
Why are you in my thread talking to yourself?
Go on, back to the corner with you.
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brisboy
Nov 3, 2009, 2:31 AM
Post #12 of 19
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west_by_god_virginia wrote: get a job, hippie.
Or were you the dick that left the death trap.
I can't see any other reson for your childish crap.
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justroberto
Nov 3, 2009, 2:45 PM
Post #13 of 19
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But seriously - there's a multipitch route or two up there? I remember most everything being 75 feet or less.
Edit: I'm retarded and missed your first response.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Nov 3, 2009, 4:18 PM)
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subantz
Nov 3, 2009, 3:36 PM
Post #14 of 19
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Notapplicables rope is only 60ft long so everything is multipitch. 
Thanks for fixing the deathblock NA
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notapplicable
Nov 3, 2009, 4:24 PM
Post #15 of 19
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justroberto wrote: But seriously - there's a multipitch route or two up there? I remember most everything being 75 feet or less.
I don't know. I've never actually topped out this route because I didn't think it was worth the effort but to look at it, I'm sure doing it in one pitch would cause a lot of rope drag.
I also seem to remember reading about one or two others that can be broken down because they climb under or around a feature that screws with rope management. I don't recall climbing one though. Maybe in Gods Area?
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notapplicable
Nov 3, 2009, 4:30 PM
Post #16 of 19
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subantz wrote: Notapplicables rope is only 60ft long so everything is multipitch. Thanks for fixing the deathblock NA
Are you telling me a foot and a meter aren't the same thing??
Damnit, no wonder people are always laughing at my hanging belays.
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subantz
Nov 3, 2009, 5:28 PM
Post #17 of 19
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3 60ft ropes are not as good as 1 60meter ropes. So stop cutting them things. Gear collectors I will never understand.  I would take you a month to summit Elcap with that rope NA. OK damz it another one star post whoooo hooo I am on a roll.
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sungam
Nov 3, 2009, 6:08 PM
Post #18 of 19
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west_by_god_virginia wrote: stfu noob.
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hafilax
Nov 3, 2009, 6:38 PM
Post #19 of 19
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brisboy wrote: west_by_god_virginia wrote: get a job, hippie. Bit of a dick aren't you ? spraying your mouth for no needed reason. Or were you the dick that left the death trap. I can't see any other reson for your childish crap.
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