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repete
Dec 8, 2002, 10:19 PM
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I have a pair of anasazi velcroes, and i love them to death, but they hurt like hell when i climb cracks in them. What would be a good shoe for crack climbing?
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climbinganne
Dec 8, 2002, 10:26 PM
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those suckers hurt like hell climbing anything...
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holmeslovesguinness
Dec 8, 2002, 10:29 PM
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For larger crack sizes (where you are actually stuffing your foot in there) a stiffer (board lasted) shoe is probably your best bet. Something like a Boreal Ace, 5.10 Newton, La Sportiva Mega, etc.
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climbingjunky
Dec 8, 2002, 10:32 PM
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My scarpa reflexes seem to make my feet hurt more on crack climbs. It might be cuz the toe area is narrow and is squishing my feet, im not sure.
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jerrygarcia
Dec 8, 2002, 10:34 PM
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Indy, you're right about the toe being small.
I have a pair of Boreal Ace's That work wonders in cracks and are super comfortable on Multi-pitch. I can wear em all day and feel no pain. Incidently I use them on short sport routes too and they still hold up ok for edging/smearing but they are not the best.
JerryGarcia
[ This Message was edited by: jerrygarcia on 2002-12-08 14:35 ]
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jhwnewengland
Dec 8, 2002, 11:18 PM
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My Anasazis hurt when crack climbing as well, but I think it's because I have my toes all balled up the front. When I do buy a shoe for trad and multi-pitch, I think it will be another pair of Anasazis (probably lace-up) that are large enough that my toes are flat in the front.
I've tried crack climbing in some of the other recommended shoes, like the Aces and the Newtons, and I find their toe boxes a little too large for finger cracks. That's why I'm planning on sticking with Anasazis.
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dirko
Dec 9, 2002, 4:23 AM
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Having climbed in all kinds of shoes, my favorites would have to be La Sportiva Mythos. I would give a 9. 2 years, 2 soles and they are still going strong. The only thing is that they can be a bit painful, but then again you are climbing, not relaxing on the beach? In case you were considering others, I would say (for cracks) Boreal Equinox 4, Five Ten X-Ray/Ascent 7, Sportiva Cobra 7, Moccasym 8. You want to size the shoes so that your toes are flat, not crimped. Velco is not such a hot idea, since cracks will eat the straps for lunch. If you are climbing wide cracks, forget everything I said and buy hightops.
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pbjosh
Dec 9, 2002, 4:40 AM
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The best crack shoes out there are the Mythos and the Moccasyms. The mythos provide a little more protection, the moccasyms are a bit more sensative, but it probably matters more which one fits your foot better. The reason they're the best is they have the smallest toe profile for getting your outside rand in thin cracks.
For really big cracks (fists and larger) a board lasted shoe is great, but try to put your mega/ace/ballet/synchro/etc in a finger crack and you'll be SOL...
I wear mythos for crack climbing and swear by them. From 5.7 hands to 5.12 fingers they are the best.
Just don't size your crack shoes too tight. Allow for stretch (alot in both Mythos and Moccasyms) but you want a snug fit WITHOUT having your toes all curled up (which would defeat the purpose of having a low toe profile and a jammable outer rand).
josh
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johnny_g
Dec 9, 2002, 9:13 AM
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Yes I know that hurts but as I read on the anasazies domain they aren't for crack climbing that's why I suggest you to try Spiers from 5.10 cliff from Sportiva and ...
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rodeomountain
Dec 9, 2002, 12:51 PM
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Aces
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mesomorf
Dec 9, 2002, 1:10 PM
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jhwnewengland,
I think Anasazis hurt when crack climbing 'cause the rand does not wrap far enough up over the top.
climbinganne,
I think Anasazis hurt YOU 'cause they don't fit YOUR foot. Me, I can't bear to stick my foot in a pair of Aces.
In fact, holmeslovesguinness, I don't buy the argument that you need a board lasted shoe for cracks.
What you need in all situations is a shoe that PERFORMS. That means 1) it fits you, and 2) it's slip lasted (and has enough rand).
I've gone over from Anasazi velcros to Boreal Zens. I still have occasional problems with the velcro in cracks, but I love velcro closures.
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mountainmonkey
Dec 9, 2002, 3:54 PM
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One thing that will make it very painful to climb cracks is having your shoes too tight. Crack shoes should be snug but not tight. Your toes should almost lay flat in the shoes, then you can wiggle them into small cracks.
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camhead
Dec 9, 2002, 4:05 PM
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Moccasyms rule for thin cracks, and I even use mine for wider stuff.
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rock_diva
Dec 9, 2002, 4:06 PM
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Another vote for the Mythos when crack climbing.
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holmeslovesguinness
Dec 9, 2002, 4:33 PM
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mesomorf
In fact, holmeslovesguinness, I don't buy the argument that you need a board lasted shoe for cracks.
just my very humble opinion, but i think having a shoe with some support on bigger cracks is pretty nice. this is coming from a large guy with humungous feet - they hurt like hell after a few pitches of torquing into large cracks wearing a softer slip lasted shoe. maybe my technique just sucks (a definite possiblity).
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camhead
Dec 9, 2002, 4:42 PM
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(peripheral subject that camhead chooses to interject here)
a great technique builder for your feet is to climb hand cracks barefoot. You will learn the little ways to reduce pain and discomfort in ways that shoes won't allow. Highly recommended.
OR
if you are a true masocist, climb the practice crack at your local gym in socks!
yeah.
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dirko
Dec 10, 2002, 2:53 AM
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BTW Sportiva Mythos are unlined leather and will stretch a whole size... For reference, I wear a 44 in the Mythos so my toes lie flat even though my Chaco's are 12's.
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freudian
Dec 10, 2002, 3:19 AM
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Camhead:
Dude... climbing barefoot on hand cracks? That would shread your feet to BITS. Oh well, to each their own, eh?
Others:
High Tops made of leather would be best in a large hand crack. I have found that synthetic leather shoes such as the Newtons do not fair as well in cracks cause when you are using the top of the shoe at all, the slip in places the leather doesn't.
Freudian
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beyond_gravity
Dec 10, 2002, 3:26 AM
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shoes are over-rated.
Barefoot.
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mountainmonkey
Dec 10, 2002, 4:51 PM
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http://www.climbingmoab.com/community/album/140.html
http://www.climbingmoab.com/community/album/141.html
... although the most disgusting thing I have ever seen climbing was when my friend hurt one of his toes so he was climbing an overhanging hand crack in Vedavoo without one shoe - at least Ben was smart enough to do it on a desert splitter.
[ This Message was edited by: mountainmonkey on 2002-12-10 08:54 ]
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holmeslovesguinness
Dec 10, 2002, 5:01 PM
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sweet jesus, my feet hurt just looking at those pics... guess there's something to be said for technique (or really high pain tolerance)...
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micronut
Dec 10, 2002, 5:08 PM
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I like Mytos the best for thin to medium cracks. My one knock on them is I don't think they're as durable as some. Josh eats em up. On burly hand cracks like those found at the Needles in California, I wear full on high top Kaukalators, otherwise me feet get crushed!!
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hallm
Dec 10, 2002, 5:10 PM
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I use both the Mythos and the Aces. Both are good boots and will perform well in all sizes of cracks. The main difference is that the Ace has a board last and is accordingly stiffer but with less sensitivity. Also, the board takes some of the localized pressure generated from footjams and distributes it more evenly along the sole of your foot.
Regarding the toe box on the Ace, I have never found it to be too large or bulky for finger cracks. I have lead several mid-grade (i.e. hard ten, easy eleven) finger cracks and felt the toe of the Aces went in quite well. (Then again, alot of these routes were put up in EBs and RRs, so it is more likely the skill and strength of the climber than the shoe that leads to success on the routes).
My problem with the Aces, as well as other Boreal boots, is that the heel is a bit bulbous and doesn't suck up to my heel as well as the Mythos. That being said, after about 6 months of climibing in the Aces (I owned the original black and yellow pair and now have the newer midnight blue pair), they will form to my foot so that this is no longer an issue.
Finally, I think the XSV on the Mythos performs better on the granite and volcanic rock I tend to climb on, than the Boreal rubber. Of course, once I am ready for a resole, I go to C4 anyway.
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