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hincking
Mar 10, 2010, 4:52 AM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2010
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on sport routes how are draws set? are some set up permanently or do u have to set them as u go?
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Samiam277
Mar 10, 2010, 5:16 AM
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Generally you clip draws to the bolts as you climb. The only times the draws will already be in place are when you are leading the route right after someone else who left their draws in place and pulled the rope, or if you are projecting a route and leave your own draws there after you rap down and place them (I am not really sure about the ethics that surround this, as I am not too serious of a sport climber, though I see draws hanging a lot at Smith).
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uni_jim
Mar 10, 2010, 6:13 AM
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in some areas, you may see "fixed draws" on steep routes. These are usually on very overhung routes, where someone has been kind enough to fix gear on the route so people don't have to clean their own draws. These fixed draws will often have a quick link in place of the bolt-end biner, and may have a short length of chain in place of a sling. DO NOT STEAL THIS GEAR FOR YOURSELF.
you may see a line of quickdraws left on a route, these are most likely left by soeone who is projecting that route over several days/weeks, and does not want to have to clean the draws each day. Again, DO NOT STEAL THIS GEAR FOR YOURSELF. It was left there by someone who plans on returning for their gear.
You may see a single biner, quickdraw, or quick link on a sport route This was left by someone who was not able to complete the route as a bail piece. Bail gear is BOOTY and, if you can climb to it, it isyours for the taking.
To answer your question, MOST of the time, you will have to bring your own quickdraws and clip the bolts as you climb.
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davidnn5
Mar 10, 2010, 6:25 AM
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There are also areas so dedicated to sport climbing that they will have draws hung even if the climb is not overhanging. You may find a coffee shop nearby. The area is unlikely to be more than 50 metres from a road accessible by a two-wheel-drive vehicle.
A garland of cams around your neck will keep most of the denizens of such a crag away from you, should they be inclined to attack you for not worshipping Chris Sharma.
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I_do
Mar 10, 2010, 8:54 AM
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davidnn5 wrote: There are also areas so dedicated to sport climbing that they will have draws hung even if the climb is not overhanging. You may find a coffee shop nearby. The area is unlikely to be more than 50 metres from a road accessible by a two-wheel-drive vehicle. A garland of cams around your neck will keep most of the denizens of such a crag away from you, should they be inclined to attack you for not worshipping Chris Sharma.
Admit it, you climb at Nowra. Good place to pick up chicks though.
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davidnn5
Mar 10, 2010, 9:54 AM
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I_do wrote: davidnn5 wrote: There are also areas so dedicated to sport climbing that they will have draws hung even if the climb is not overhanging. You may find a coffee shop nearby. The area is unlikely to be more than 50 metres from a road accessible by a two-wheel-drive vehicle. A garland of cams around your neck will keep most of the denizens of such a crag away from you, should they be inclined to attack you for not worshipping Chris Sharma. Admit it, you climb at Nowra. Good place to pick up chicks though.
Uhhhh... I wouldn't know anything about the chicks part. I am a dutiful husband.
Ok, wife's gone. Yep, I've been known to hit Nowra on occasion. The coffee and views are great.
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I_do
Mar 10, 2010, 10:00 AM
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davidnn5 wrote: I_do wrote: davidnn5 wrote: There are also areas so dedicated to sport climbing that they will have draws hung even if the climb is not overhanging. You may find a coffee shop nearby. The area is unlikely to be more than 50 metres from a road accessible by a two-wheel-drive vehicle. A garland of cams around your neck will keep most of the denizens of such a crag away from you, should they be inclined to attack you for not worshipping Chris Sharma. Admit it, you climb at Nowra. Good place to pick up chicks though. Uhhhh... I wouldn't know anything about the chicks part. I am a dutiful husband. Ok, wife's gone. Yep, I've been known to hit Nowra on occasion. The coffee and views are great.
Don't forget nice and quit. We were one of two partys there in near perfect conditions. Coming from crowded Euro crags it's a revelation!
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kachoong
Mar 10, 2010, 4:03 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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davidnn5 wrote: I_do wrote: davidnn5 wrote: There are also areas so dedicated to sport climbing that they will have draws hung even if the climb is not overhanging. You may find a coffee shop nearby. The area is unlikely to be more than 50 metres from a road accessible by a two-wheel-drive vehicle. A garland of cams around your neck will keep most of the denizens of such a crag away from you, should they be inclined to attack you for not worshipping Chris Sharma. Admit it, you climb at Nowra. Good place to pick up chicks though. Uhhhh... I wouldn't know anything about the chicks part. I am a dutiful husband. Ok, wife's gone. Yep, I've been known to hit Nowra on occasion. The coffee and views are great.
Heh... only thing I ever picked up climbing at Nowra was a tick on Ned Flanders... 
btw...you're located in a prime place to begin climbing... I did the same... Booroomba was our shrine.
...sorry for the thread drift... Jim said it anyway.
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cracklover
Mar 10, 2010, 5:33 PM
Post #9 of 9
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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uni_jim wrote: in some areas, you may see "fixed draws" on steep routes. These are usually on very overhung routes, where someone has been kind enough to fix gear on the route so people don't have to clean their own draws. These fixed draws will often have a quick link in place of the bolt-end biner, and may have a short length of chain in place of a sling. DO NOT STEAL THIS GEAR FOR YOURSELF. you may see a line of quickdraws left on a route, these are most likely left by soeone who is projecting that route over several days/weeks, and does not want to have to clean the draws each day. Again, DO NOT STEAL THIS GEAR FOR YOURSELF. It was left there by someone who plans on returning for their gear. You may see a single biner, quickdraw, or quick link on a sport route This was left by someone who was not able to complete the route as a bail piece. Bail gear is BOOTY and, if you can climb to it, it isyours for the taking. To answer your question, MOST of the time, you will have to bring your own quickdraws and clip the bolts as you climb.
This ^^^
GO
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