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joeforte
Mar 26, 2010, 1:24 AM
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Hey, I'm looking to pack light for a day of multipitch in the Nears. Small rack, moderate-hard routes. Would I be better off with doubles? I'm mostly concerned with the raps, because I would rather rap than walkoff. Can you rap most of the routes with a single or walk to nearby rap stations easily, or is it nicer to have doubles to get off?
on aside... Any suggestions from 5.6-5.11?
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granite_grrl
Mar 26, 2010, 1:43 AM
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joeforte wrote: Hey, I'm looking to pack light for a day of multipitch in the Nears. Small rack, moderate-hard routes. Would I be better off with doubles? I'm mostly concerned with the raps, because I would rather rap than walkoff. Can you rap most of the routes with a single or walk to nearby rap stations easily, or is it nicer to have doubles to get off? on aside... Any suggestions from 5.6-5.11?
People who are more familiar with the Nears can correct me if I'm wrong.
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joeforte
Mar 26, 2010, 2:06 AM
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After scanning through the guidebook, it looks like most of the routes walkoff or rap after the first pitch. I think I'll be taking the skinny single...
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rock_fencer
Mar 26, 2010, 2:47 AM
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yeah the walk off is super short, easy and takes a whopping 10 minutes max
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coolcat83
Mar 26, 2010, 3:14 AM
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the single should be okay as long as you sling well. for the most part walking off is easier and just as fast as rapping. have you climbed in the gunks before? if not take it easy until you get used to the style.
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marc801
Mar 26, 2010, 6:18 AM
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joeforte wrote: I'm mostly concerned with the raps, because I would rather rap than walkoff.
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j_ung
Mar 26, 2010, 11:53 AM
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marc801 wrote: joeforte wrote: I'm mostly concerned with the raps, because I would rather rap than walkoff. Why? Especially from a 200' or mostly less high cliff?
To conserve a little time and hopefully bag more pitches, I assume... especially from a <200' cliff.
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joeforte
Mar 26, 2010, 11:53 AM
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marc801 wrote: joeforte wrote: I'm mostly concerned with the raps, because I would rather rap than walkoff. Why? Especially from a 200' or mostly less high cliff?
Because I have a bum knee that bums even more on downhills, but the walkoff IS short, so I'll manage. We're just trying to be efficient and get a lot of pitches in, which usually means rapping.
Oh, and yeah, I've climbed at the Gunks before, but I avoid it because of the swarms I've experienced before, and because I live very close to the DWG, which has comparable climbing, and is more secluded IMO. My partner LOVES the Gunks however, so I decided to give the early season a try, hoping it will be less of a clusterf-ck of accidents waiting to happen.
Oh, on another side-note... is Kansas City leadable on just the fixed gear, or should I bring a few pieces? I remember seeing a ton of fixed gear in it last time I drooled by! Can it be lead ground up in one pitch and lower off with a 60m, or is it easier to do it in two? I'm not sure my second is up for cleaning it...
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jaablink
Mar 26, 2010, 1:04 PM
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First, the climbers trail cuts back down at Kansas City, in less than 5 minutes you can back at the base ready for another lap. There is tons of fixed gear on it but you will need a few pieces , 1 bd3, one shoe (blue), and a feather.
It will be packed there this weekend…. I know about 15 heads from here are going up and at least 20 from the nyc crew. Those are just the people I know, so I can just imagine. I was going up there while there was still 3 feet of snow on the trail, and there were still a lot of people. Oddly enough , all the climbs we did were free. Wonder why? Lol…nature of the beast I guess…
Have a good time Joey, and don’t over do it this early in the season. You need to give the body to time recondition or you will tweak something again. The rock is not going anywhere…
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joeforte
Mar 26, 2010, 9:20 PM
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jaablink wrote: First, the climbers trail cuts back down at Kansas City, in less than 5 minutes you can back at the base ready for another lap. There is tons of fixed gear on it but you will need a few pieces , 1 bd3, one shoe (blue), and a feather. It will be packed there this weekend…. I know about 15 heads from here are going up and at least 20 from the nyc crew. Those are just the people I know, so I can just imagine. I was going up there while there was still 3 feet of snow on the trail, and there were still a lot of people. Oddly enough , all the climbs we did were free. Wonder why? Lol…nature of the beast I guess… Have a good time Joey, and don’t over do it this early in the season. You need to give the body to time recondition or you will tweak something again. The rock is not going anywhere…
I'm not worried about climbs being free, I'm worried about having to watch the chaos go down all around me...
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johnwesely
Mar 26, 2010, 10:18 PM
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Is Kansas City really easier with no shoes?
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jaablink
Mar 26, 2010, 11:18 PM
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i dont know... never been on it. you? it gets too crowed in the nears for me... i just remebmer joe saying something about it last year. but the feather is key for sure... just ask dumbo.
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johnwesely
Mar 26, 2010, 11:38 PM
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jaablink wrote: i dont know... never been on it. you? it gets too crowed in the nears for me... i just remebmer joe saying something about it last year. but the feather is key for sure... just ask dumbo. [image]http://www.freekidscoloringandcrafts.com/dumbo66.jpg[/image]
Never been to the Gunks. I am coming for 6 weeks this summer though.
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joeforte
Mar 29, 2010, 1:46 AM
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Nobody was in the Nears today, due to the cold temps and clouds. We had the place to ourselves. Nonetheless, we did 2 pitches of 5.5, 3 of 5.6, 2 of 5.7, 3 of 5.9 and toproped a 12 (Slammin the Salmon). I did not get on Kansas city, because it was a rather alpine-like day to say the least. I'm not a huge fan of the Gunks in season, but off season is actually really nice...
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