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Multipitch in Oregon May
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dreday3000


Mar 30, 2010, 5:30 PM
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Multipitch in Oregon May  (North_America: United_States: Oregon)
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Going to fly into Portland May 10th for my honeymoon. We're going to rent a car and be in the area for 2 weeks.

Mostly, we're gonna be touring the countryside and doing the wine tasting thing but we're hoping to get 2-3 days of climbing in as well. I'm pretty comfortable in the 12 range and she's a strong 11 climber ( knock off a grade for trad climbing)

Originally thinking about Smith but now i'm thinking it would be be fun to do some multipitch gear lines together.

Not very familiar with the area but should be striking distances to some nice stuff in the Cascades right? Anything in season?

Looking for recommendations for the rocks and/or anything a pair of newly weds might get up to in the general vicinity.

Thanks.

Thanks.

(edited for spelling)


(This post was edited by dreday3000 on Mar 30, 2010, 5:31 PM)


dreday3000


Mar 30, 2010, 8:12 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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Anyone?


nkane


Mar 30, 2010, 8:47 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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Smith rock has multipitch...

Look up Zebra/Zion... Monkey Face... etc.

Also you could check out Wolf Rock if you're feeling adventurous.


phillygoat


Mar 30, 2010, 9:22 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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check out Monkey Face routes! Gear, bolts, multi-pitch. Monkey Space via the West Face Variation is pretty good, with incredible exposure. Too easy? Astro Monkey.


dreday3000


Mar 31, 2010, 1:51 AM
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Re: [nkane] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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Wolf rock looks perfect but found a link somewhere saying its closed Jan - July 31st for raptors. Anything else like that out there?


jacobbelsher


Mar 31, 2010, 2:36 AM
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not a lot of good multipitch in the oregon cascades. smith is your best bet. check out trout creek as well. also beacon rock is great.


truckyme


Mar 31, 2010, 6:46 AM
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Re: [dreday3000] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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dreday3000 wrote:
Wolf rock looks perfect but found a link somewhere saying its closed Jan - July 31st for raptors. Anything else like that out there?
almost every crag has sections closed for raptor nesting. even smith has section closures.


dreday3000


Mar 31, 2010, 9:19 PM
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Re: [truckyme] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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Does mean that parts of Wolf will be open? I'll look into it a little more.


truckyme


Mar 31, 2010, 9:50 PM
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i'm not sure. i've only been there once and i can't find my orton guide book.


patmay81


Mar 31, 2010, 10:17 PM
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beacon rock in the columbia gorge has longer routes, and the whole thing is not closed for nesting. might be a good stop on a road trip to smith.
theres a lot of great multipitch gear routes at smith, depending on difficulty and length desired (most of the notables are 5.10 or less)
try zebra to zion, super slab...
Boughton bluffs in portland has great multipitch, although its not exactly destination climbing. if your interested check out the north wall with gandalfs grip, frodo's journey, and my favorite is the traffic court variation.
there's also rocky butte in portland, but that place sucks. its dirty, lots of trash at the base and the traffic noise is horrible.


iching


Sep 26, 2010, 3:27 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] Multipitch in Oregon May [In reply to]
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On the Umpqua:

McKinley Rock
has routes that are 3+ (150 ft) pitches in length, bolts.

Acker Rock
Eagles Dare which requires 6 (100ft) rappels and 100ft of class 4 to it's base from near the lookout and then 8 (100 to 190) ft pitches out.
Peregrine Traverse is a 9 (150ft) pitche traverse of .6 and scrambling.
Black Magic and Maltese Falcon are both 3 (150ft) pitches.
bolts

Old Man Spire is 2 ~100ft pitches of trad

Red Mans Tooth and Jurassic Park
both have multi-pitch routes generally 2 (150ft) pitches. bolts, some trad

On the Willamette as mentioned there is Wolf Rock but the Menagerie is often over looked and has some excellent multi-pitch climbing in the upper watershed for competent lead climbers. bolts, some trad

On the Rogue there is Rabbit Ears and Pilot Rock for multi-pitch climbing. bolts, some trad


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