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blondgecko
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Apr 14, 2010, 5:50 AM
Post #51 of 63
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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 7666
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areyoumydude wrote: angry wrote: One time at band camp, I was leading this dihedral and the loop of my shoe clipped the cam below me. Since it was a hard size to downclimb, I kicked the shoe off (slipper) and finished the route one shoed. What instrument did you play?
Rusty trombone?
angry wrote: Twice, I've got my fingers stuck in a finger crack so desperately that I had to clip into gear and haul a water bottle up so I could wet the crack and get my fingers out.
At Kangaroo Point in Brisbane, there's a small finger crack that has a cartoon piranha drawn around it, from the time when a guy didn't manage to get his fingers out.
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airscape
Apr 14, 2010, 10:03 AM
Post #52 of 63
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Registered: Feb 26, 2001
Posts: 4240
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blondgecko wrote: areyoumydude wrote: angry wrote: One time at band camp, I was leading this dihedral and the loop of my shoe clipped the cam below me. Since it was a hard size to downclimb, I kicked the shoe off (slipper) and finished the route one shoed. What instrument did you play? Rusty trombone? angry wrote: Twice, I've got my fingers stuck in a finger crack so desperately that I had to clip into gear and haul a water bottle up so I could wet the crack and get my fingers out. At Kangaroo Point in Brisbane, there's a small finger crack that has a cartoon piranha drawn around it, from the time when a guy didn't manage to get his fingers out.
If a girl gets her fingers stuck in a crack is she concidered booty?
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jonoj
Apr 14, 2010, 10:50 AM
Post #53 of 63
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Registered: Jan 4, 2002
Posts: 140
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Danger I never thought about until it happened? Hmmm..... lemme see.......
Not having a hydraulic jack in the haul bag, to lift a coffee-table sized boulder off my partner's foot, which had tumbled onto him while descending from a fairly remote big wall in the Western Cape, South Africa.
Won't go in to too much much detail here, as my article is soon to be printed in the next issue of our local climbing mag....... but in a nutshell, he was stuck there for 22 hours in the rain while a massive rescue operation was underway..... 30 or so rescue volunteers, two airforce helicoptors, a team of medics , a team of engineers and much agony later, he was finally able to be airlifted out of the gully the following afternoon.
We were equipped with enough provisions for four days out, and possibly too much gear..... aside from a hydraulic jack or two! - definitely didn't see that one coming!!
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 14, 2010, 2:52 PM
Post #54 of 63
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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I never thought of this until it happened.
About to rappel, it started to rain. To speed things up, we decided to simul-rap. My belay device was extended (this will be important in a second). This particular rap involved a few ledges that we had gather the rope and toss it off. Off the last ledge, We launched off. Me being heavier and probably launched a split second before my wife, it put me below her. As her weight stretched out the rope, she came down such that my extended belay device wedge itself up the back of her helmet, practically choking her with her chinstrap (Her particular model had a lot of space in the back).
Kind of awestruck about what was going on, and hearing her desperate gasps, my first instinct was to reach up and try to dislodge it. Then I realized that if I just lowered, it would come right out  .
Josh
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csproul
Apr 14, 2010, 3:14 PM
Post #55 of 63
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
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blueeyedclimber wrote: I never thought of this until it happened. About to rappel, it started to rain. To speed things up, we decided to simul-rap. My belay device was extended (this will be important in a second). This particular rap involved a few ledges that we had gather the rope and toss it off. Off the last ledge, We launched off. Me being heavier and probably launched a split second before my wife, it put me below her. As her weight stretched out the rope, she came down such that my extended belay device wedge itself up the back of her helmet, practically choking her with her chinstrap (Her particular model had a lot of space in the back). Kind of awestruck about what was going on, and hearing her desperate gasps, my first instinct was to reach up and try to dislodge it. Then I realized that if I just lowered, it would come right out . Josh
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climb-high
Apr 14, 2010, 7:20 PM
Post #57 of 63
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Registered: Mar 21, 2008
Posts: 14
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i was climbing in Butte, America and just place what i thought to be a bomber nut, went right into the slot, wedged perfect, but once i got above it, it popped out making me make a few more moves to set two cams. i was about 20-25 feet up when i places those. next i moved through the crux, but being a noob to trad and having a small rack i no longer had a cam for my next placement. after a few minutes of struggling i got a #7 stopper to rest in the crack. after getting above it and near my next placement, i slipped and watch the #7 nut shoot out of the crack like it was shot from a gun. Luckily the two cams i placed, #1 tcu backed up by a #00 tcu, held and with all the rope stretch i was set no so softly on the ground and under my belayer. Made me think twice about nuts placed on crumbly granite crystals.
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suprasoup
Apr 15, 2010, 7:02 AM
Post #58 of 63
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
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 This is gonna suck for me...
-Down has absolutely no insulating value when wet. Being above 14k and discovering that...
-When a chipmunk lands on your face while leading a trad route don't grab it with both hands...
-Contrary to popular belief, running away when faced with an angry bear is a good idea, not running is probably the stupidest thing you can do. Wait, correction, laying in the fetal position as it's mauling you is stupider...
-You can't fend off a cougar unless you're Curt.
-There are actually killer bees in AZ. Being stung by 20,000+ can defeat any immunity you might otherwise have.
-Rattlesnakes can, in fact, strike at distance of over half their body length.
-In all my time doing big walls in Yosemite I never saw a stranger sight than when I heard a yell from above and a KEG was making a beeline straight for my head. A KEG!
-Getting high at altitude might just kill you but getting drunk at altitude might just save your life.
-Knowing the munter hitch is a good idea. Carrying two belay devices is a better idea. Cause after you mank the F%$K out of your rope while trying to rappel 10 pitches in a snow storm with a munter you'll always carry two.
-Don't F%$K with a family of falcons. They're called a bird of prey for a reason.
-taking a dump off a big wall is a time honored ritual, until someones said dump lands on your head. ALWAYS wear your helmet cause sh*t happens.
-Wolves never ever travel alone...
and yes, this all happened while climbing...and unfortunately for my A$$ it's a tiny portion of my pearls of wisdom
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Apr 15, 2010, 7:26 AM)
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csproul
Apr 15, 2010, 2:12 PM
Post #60 of 63
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
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What have you done to piss off the wildlife?!
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TarHeelEMT
Apr 15, 2010, 4:15 PM
Post #61 of 63
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
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summerprophet wrote: Most of the dangers can be looked at in three fashions: 2. Failure to check / review systems It has happened to everyone, and thankfully for the large majority of us, fate smiled upon us the first time, and we learned a valuble lesson. From unlocked carabiners, halfwrapped knots, and poor anchors, the simple act of double checking before commiting to a system has probably killed more technical rockclimbers than everything else put together. We are at fault for this one. I advise this to everyone looking for free guide advice on anchors. If you are unsure... make sure everyone you are climbing with agrees it is safe,... that way when it fails, no individual is to blame, you are all at fault. EXAMPLE: 18 years and 50 lbs ago, we were getting ready to toprope a short 5.11. While my partner ran around to rag an anchor and toss the ropes, my girlfriend at the time decided it was the perfect opportunity to check me for wood. I was understandable light headed by the time my climbing partner came down. Itied in and started climbing, and was easilly 10 feet up when my partner pointed out my harness was undone. My fault YES! His fault YES! failure to double check each other is Both your faults.
Along those lines,
While climbing Great Arch in a party of three, with my buddy and I taking his girlfriend up the climb. One belay below the top, she climbed up to join the two of us. While clipping her in to the anchor, he somehow unclipped himself and was resting against the tree at the belay. It wasn't until a few seconds later when I rechecked everything that I realized he wasn't attached.
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swoopee
Apr 15, 2010, 4:16 PM
Post #62 of 63
(750 views)
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Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560
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A chipmunk??? Really? 
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