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Piedpiper
Apr 18, 2010, 9:03 PM
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Looking to buy some medium cams. Debating between C4's or Powercams. Will be used in granite and limestone. What do you prefer?
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Khoi
Apr 18, 2010, 9:19 PM
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Piedpiper wrote: Looking to buy some medium cams. Debating between C4's or Powercams. Will be used in granite and limestone. What do you prefer?
I hate dual stems so it's C4's for me, no contest!
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mattsheat
Apr 18, 2010, 10:06 PM
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Khoi wrote: Piedpiper wrote: Looking to buy some medium cams. Debating between C4's or Powercams. Will be used in granite and limestone. What do you prefer? I hate dual stems so it's C4's for me, no contest!
I agree, I find the trigger and the thumb loop on the C4's a bit easier to use. Definitely C4's.
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charlie.elverson
Apr 18, 2010, 10:11 PM
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C4, no competition.
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zxcv
Apr 18, 2010, 10:16 PM
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I also find the ergonomics of the C4s preferable...
There are also differences in range and cam angle, the later of which is supposed to translate into greater holding power for Powercams.
My main gripe with Powercams is that they are easier to get stuck when I am hurried or a new leader is starting out. if you grab a Powercam, retract, and place... it is relatively easy to fully contract and fix the unit. I lost one this way when I first started, and another letting a new leader borrow my rack.
Anyway, use both and see what you like- they all work.
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meanandugly
Apr 18, 2010, 11:45 PM
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I just did a lot of personal research because I wanted to replace my old Czech made cams and after playing around with a bunch of different brands, including power cams, it was C4's hands down.
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moose_droppings
Apr 19, 2010, 12:02 AM
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Hope you don't buy by opinion. Mime would be for the powercams, but you really need to find out for yourself which you prefer.
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Piedpiper
Apr 19, 2010, 1:28 AM
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Thanks for the input everyone. I have had a #2c4 on my rack for quite some time and love it. Phasing out all of the forged friends that I have still kicking around. I haven't had any experience with the powercams, but looks like people are leaning c4's anyways.
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petsfed
Apr 19, 2010, 1:31 AM
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zxcv wrote: I also find the ergonomics of the C4s preferable... There are also differences in range and cam angle, the later of which is supposed to translate into greater holding power for Powercams. My main gripe with Powercams is that they are easier to get stuck when I am hurried or a new leader is starting out. if you grab a Powercam, retract, and place... it is relatively easy to fully contract and fix the unit. I lost one this way when I first started, and another letting a new leader borrow my rack. Anyway, use both and see what you like- they all work.
There's not a lot to add to that.
I think powercams have wider lobes, but I don't use Metolius cams for the reasons mentioned above. Wider lobes would be nice for softer rock, although a smaller cam angle means more force on the walls of the rock (for identical width lobes), leading to a greater chance of pulverization. If the rock doesn't crumble under the force of the cams, the cam is less likely to blow. If the rock does crumble, you've just put ball bearings between the cam lobe and the rock. Metolius used to make a cam with extra wide lobes specifically for softer rock. Either they figured it wasn't much of an issue, or they just weren't selling.
U-Stem cams aren't as flexible as single-stem cams, or at least they have fewer directions they can flex. Not really an issue unless you consistently place your cams such that they aren't oriented towards the likely direction of pull AND in placements too shallow to allow them to rotate. Again, a non-issue unless you're climbing hard and scary enough stuff that you don't need to ask here.
The Rangefinder markings are useful if you're learning, but basically useless once you're comfortable with placing the cams. Fortunately, they don't charge extra for it.
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acorneau
Apr 19, 2010, 2:21 AM
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Definitely try both out before you buy.
I'll go against the crowd here and say don't discount the Powercams.
They're lighter, less expensive and if you need 10 placements for a given climb, I'd rather carry 10 Powercams than 10 Camalots.
U-stems aren't a problem at all if you know how to place them. I also like being able to pull the trigger with one, two or three figures as I need to. (Try pulling a Camalot trigger with one finger!)
Again, try them both out and go with the ones you like.
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USnavy
Apr 19, 2010, 3:06 AM
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C4's hands down. If you go with Metolius, get the Master Cams, those things rule. But know that they wont have the expansion range of the C4's.
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granite_grrl
Apr 19, 2010, 1:29 PM
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I don't know what 'medium' sized means but......#1 and up C4s, below #1 C4 I prefer Metolious (so #5 powercam/TCU/Master and down).
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multiades
Apr 19, 2010, 1:47 PM
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USnavy wrote: C4's hands down. If you go with Metolius, get the Master Cams, those things rule. But know that they wont have the expansion range of the C4's.
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Piedpiper
Apr 19, 2010, 11:23 PM
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Medium, you know not too small but not to big. Just kidding, I was thinking #1-4 camalots.
(This post was edited by Piedpiper on Apr 19, 2010, 11:24 PM)
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mtnkid85
Apr 19, 2010, 11:42 PM
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I run C4s for the most part, however I just picked up a few power cams in a package that I bought. After playing with them a bit I really like the handle/feel of them. Being able to pull the trigger multiple was, palming the stem ect... enough to sway me from my C4s though???
By the way I have a set of medium size power cams for sale. #8-4,1.
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