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Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG
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clausti


Apr 22, 2010, 11:47 AM
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     Re: [patto] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
Breccan wrote:
It is disrespectful and irresponsible to expect that family members or the belayer would have time or energy to expend on anything other than healing the injured climber and healing themselves.

There is no expectation that those close to the incident need to make forums posts.

Though when people come to a forum and make lengthy posts and detail that they know what happened but they aren't telling it is just misguided.

Instead people close to the accident have posted vague descriptions of system failure and it just encourages speculation.


just because a lot of people know a few things doesn't mean anybody posting here is sitting on information. a lot of people helped with the carry out. a lot of people were at miguel's. a lot of people know pieces.

but nobody other than "those close to the incident" knows the real story of what happened, which is why nobody is telling it. the posters here, myself included, don't have the complete information, and the bits and pieces we do have, we've been asked by the family to chill out on until a more complete picture can be put together. it will be told eventually.

you don't insist that the "accidents in north american mountaineering" be published as individual bulletins 5 days after the fact of each accident, do you? you wait till the end of the year? you can wait a few weeks or months for this.


keep fighting, mike, everybody is pulling for you!


johnwesely


Apr 22, 2010, 12:26 PM
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     Re: [bhp] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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bhp wrote:
I wonder if the community might benefit from a more anonymized system for reporting the details of incidents or something, because it seems like this conflict comes up perennially.


Get well soon.

The AAC publishes a detailed accident reports book every year. It is much more comprehensive than this forum.
Everyone who is clamoring for information should just chill out a little bit. Whatever caused this accident was not something new or novel. It wasn't pressing before the accident, and it sure is not pressing now. Instead of getting in a tizzy about your own mortality, be a little more careful this weekend. I am sure that would do far more for you than analyzing this accident that is very much still in progress.


Breccan


Apr 22, 2010, 1:41 PM
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I would like to stress that, at this point, there are no "people close to the accident" who actually know what happened. The only people that have the facts are the injured climber and his belayer.

No one is sitting on information and simply choosing not to share it. The "people close to the accident" know nothing more than you do. Attempting to speculate on what may have occurred is, again, irresponsible and hurtful.

And again I would like to mention that it is an unreasonable expectation that either the belayer or the family of the injured climber would make it a priority at this point to inform anyone as to what happened.


gitarooman


Apr 22, 2010, 1:55 PM
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     Re: [Shroom] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Shroom wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

I hate politics and believe it or not, even key players on this very site do put things under the carpet at times.

The reality is that that accident happens and climbers do make mistakes. IMO, Every climber in the world has the right to know the detail of each climbing accident cause these sort of information is what keep us alive. learning from others mistake or whatever is not something you want to be conservative on or keep it hidden.

Majid, you have let yourself become a caricature whether you know it or not. Any accident draws you to post like flies are drawn to honey water.

You have NO right to ask about details from this incident at this point. Are you special? Is the climbing community, who I assume you will claim you are asking for, due special consideration? At this point a fellow climber is fighting for his life, and you want details NOW for your personal satisfaction? Please respect the climber's friends and families.

Take a step back, and respect the fact that the details are not out there yet. When they are, you can analyze them until you are blue in the teeth. Just do it in a different thread, maybe something displaying your vast experience in the title. You can chest thump, draw arrows, and advocate rapping on dissected ropes there, and the real world can choose to ignore you.

Where have you ever posted your mistakes? I bet you made some. If you were seriously injured would you like your parents stumbling across a majid-did-this-wrong-thread?

Maybe you were mistaken, but Majid has EVERY right in the world to ASK what happened, and I dont necessarily think he is asking for his own personal satisfaction. Those with the information can choose when and whether or not to release it of course.

Majid wasnt being any more persistent or insensitive than anyone else who has posted here or on the other sites asking about what happened. In fact, looking at your posts, you seem to be chasing Majid around criticizing him for every accident he posts. Pot calling the kettle black?

Anyway, like someone said in an earlier post; Is this an accident and incident analysis forum or a well wishing forum? Perhaps there does need to be a division somewhere.

Either way, I wish the injured climber a fast and full recovery.


olderic


Apr 22, 2010, 1:58 PM
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     Re: [shotwell] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Mike - I don't know you but I am hoping for the best outcome for you. Best wishes,

People should take a look at the type of people who have responded to this thread - The more experienced climbers have overwhelmingly acknowledged that in climbing (and life) accidents happen. Look up the definition of "accident" - act of God. In this situation there are really just a limited number of possible causes - I'm sure most of you could enumerate them. I highly doubt the cause of this accident has never happened before and will never happen again - all the micro analyzing isn't going to reveal anything new but will lead to hard feelings. Here is a question for all you hand wringers demanding full disclosure - do you try and rehash every automobile accident you see or hear about? Is the only thing that is going to let you live through your commute in MA knowing all the details or a fatality in CA? For everyone of you that gets hurt in a climbing accident therer will be 10 of you that get hurt in a car accident.


majid_sabet


Apr 22, 2010, 4:34 PM
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     Re: [olderic] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
Mike - I don't know you but I am hoping for the best outcome for you. Best wishes,

People should take a look at the type of people who have responded to this thread - The more experienced climbers have overwhelmingly acknowledged that in climbing (and life) accidents happen. Look up the definition of "accident" - act of God. In this situation there are really just a limited number of possible causes - I'm sure most of you could enumerate them. I highly doubt the cause of this accident has never happened before and will never happen again - all the micro analyzing isn't going to reveal anything new but will lead to hard feelings. Here is a question for all you hand wringers demanding full disclosure - do you try and rehash every automobile accident you see or hear about? Is the only thing that is going to let you live through your commute in MA knowing all the details or a fatality in CA? For everyone of you that gets hurt in a climbing accident therer will be 10 of you that get hurt in a car accident.

well said


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 5:42 PM
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     Re: [olderic] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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Exactly. We can all, maybe even accurately guess what happened. But its just like the people who slow down to see the car crash. Everytime we all go out climbing...okay, let me rephrase...everytime I go climbing, I try to be as safe as possible, but sometimes I just think about what I and my partners have been saved from...all of the times terrible accidents could have happened and they didn't, and I am grateful.

I'm praying for Mike...I hope he comes out of this unscathed and able to live his life to the fullest, without fear, once again.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 5:49 PM
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     Re: [majid_sabet] Request for information, re. ground fall accident @ Darkside, RRG [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
olderic wrote:
Mike - I don't know you but I am hoping for the best outcome for you. Best wishes,

People should take a look at the type of people who have responded to this thread - The more experienced climbers have overwhelmingly acknowledged that in climbing (and life) accidents happen. Look up the definition of "accident" - act of God. In this situation there are really just a limited number of possible causes - I'm sure most of you could enumerate them. I highly doubt the cause of this accident has never happened before and will never happen again - all the micro analyzing isn't going to reveal anything new but will lead to hard feelings. Here is a question for all you hand wringers demanding full disclosure - do you try and rehash every automobile accident you see or hear about? Is the only thing that is going to let you live through your commute in MA knowing all the details or a fatality in CA? For everyone of you that gets hurt in a climbing accident therer will be 10 of you that get hurt in a car accident.

well said

I'm quite impressed by the number of people who know that this accident was caused by some sort of mundane error from which nothing useful can be learned.

Jay


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:01 PM
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Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples. I mean, maybe in a "scared straight" sort of way that screws with your head everytime you climb sort of learning example. The best we can do is read our freedom of the hills and be on point everytime we climb. Focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative...it brings negative thoughts. We should focus on what we have control of when it comes to climbing, because that is positive and gives us power. Some things are out of our control...

Except for the youngins/newbs...they should all be forced to watch videos of people making mistakes and the consequences.


IsayAutumn


Apr 22, 2010, 6:10 PM
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karmiclimber wrote:
Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples. I mean, maybe in a "scared straight" sort of way that screws with your head everytime you climb sort of learning example. The best we can do is read our freedom of the hills and be on point everytime we climb. Focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative...it brings negative thoughts. We should focus on what we have control of when it comes to climbing, because that is positive and gives us power. Some things are out of our control...

Except for the youngins/newbs...they should all be forced to watch videos of people making mistakes and the consequences.

I'm sorry, but this is wrong. You have no idea what went wrong, and therefore no way to predict what can and can't be learned from it. And "focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative"? Come on! That's almost as bad as saying you should pray every time before roping up. Focusing on the positives is not going to prevent an accident from happening, but learning from others' mistakes can.

Best wishes to Mike for a speedy and full recovery.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 6:10 PM
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karmiclimber wrote:
Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples. I mean, maybe in a "scared straight" sort of way that screws with your head everytime you climb sort of learning example. The best we can do is read our freedom of the hills and be on point everytime we climb. Focusing on accidents and what causes them is negative...it brings negative thoughts. We should focus on what we have control of when it comes to climbing, because that is positive and gives us power. Some things are out of our control...

You know, accident analysis is considered pretty important function in almost every activity I can think of—including, until this thread, anyway, rock climbing.

Jay


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:14 PM
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Well, there are 3 speculations floating around as to what went wrong...
1. Failure to belay. Solution: Find someone who doesn't fail to belay.
2. He skipped a bolt. Solution: Don't skip a bolt.
3. He was going for the fourth bolt and from the logistics of the climb, groundfall is likely when going for the fourth bolt, just because of the position of the bolt and and the way the rockface is leaning. Solution: Don't climb climbs where groundfall is likely?
Alright then. So, Jay, what did you learn.


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:18 PM
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Focusing on the positives, as in, being proactive in learning how to climb, belay, rappel, so you can be safe.
Yes, there is much to be learned from mistakes. That is true, I didn't say it wasn't. But in a lot of these cases, it could have been anyone of us...sometimes, shit just happens.


Breccan


Apr 22, 2010, 6:25 PM
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I would like to again stress that no one is saying there will not be a full analysis of this accident at some point. However, that point is not right now.

There is a current lack of knowledge about what actually took place during the accident. The people who actually have the facts about the accident are currently very occupied with much more important matters.

Again, the family (and the belayer) of the person involved in the accident are simply asking for time and patience as they try to help the injured climber and to heal themselves before dealing with hashing out the details of the accident. That is not an unreasonable request on their part.


jt512


Apr 22, 2010, 6:31 PM
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karmiclimber wrote:
Well, there are 3 speculations floating around as to what went wrong...
1. Failure to belay. Solution: Find someone who doesn't fail to belay.
2. He skipped a bolt. Solution: Don't skip a bolt.
3. He was going for the fourth bolt and from the logistics of the climb, groundfall is likely when going for the fourth bolt, just because of the position of the bolt and and the way the rockface is leaning. Solution: Don't climb climbs where groundfall is likely?
Alright then. So, Jay, what did you learn.

I learned that you are making two unjustified assumptions: one, that the accident was caused by one of those three factors; and 2, that even if it was, that nothing can be learned from it. In short, I learned that you are assuming the conclusion of your argument. Actually, I knew that already.

Jay


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 6:39 PM
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We don't have the information as to what went wrong. Its not available. One of the rescuers said the rope was intact, the belay device was in good working order and placed correctly on the rope and that the rope was, at its highest point, clipped to the third bolt.
If something can be learned from this, that would be excellent. Lets wait til we find out all of the information. I didn't say the accident was caused by one of those 3 factors...I said there were three major speculations floating around. A speculation is not a fact. There, you did learn something.


silascl


Apr 22, 2010, 7:31 PM
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Breccan wrote:
I would like to again stress that no one is saying there will not be a full analysis of this accident at some point. However, that point is not right now.

There is a current lack of knowledge about what actually took place during the accident. The people who actually have the facts about the accident are currently very occupied with much more important matters.

Again, the family (and the belayer) of the person involved in the accident are simply asking for time and patience as they try to help the injured climber and to heal themselves before dealing with hashing out the details of the accident. That is not an unreasonable request on their part.

It's not unreasonable, but it is unlikely. In the absence of information there will be speculation. If that speculation is somehow upsetting to the family or belayer (a response I never understood at all) then they should provide more information to end the speculation or just not visit forums titled "Accident and Incident Analysis".

This same exact series of events happened when Woody Stark fell to his death roughly a year ago. When the report finally did come out it was confusing and led to more speculation. When conclusions about the cause of the accident were reached, the speculation and so called ambulance chasing ended pretty abruptly. The same thing will probably happen with this accident.


glahhg


Apr 22, 2010, 8:04 PM
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karmiclimber wrote:
Honestly Jay, I don't think its going to be one of those learning examples.

karmiclimber wrote:
We don't have the information as to what went wrong. Its not available.


Then stop making conclusions.

I think there's always something to be learned from accidents, even if the causes are mundane.

Withholding information is lame.


Partner drector


Apr 22, 2010, 8:08 PM
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The only reason to get the information as quickly as possible is to avoid it being forgotten. The longer people wait to document things, the more inaccurate and confusing the results will become.

If the people involved are all busy with other things, they are not likely to be caring much about a bunch of pseudo-paparazzi on the internet trying to get a "picture" of the accident.

I send my best wishes to those directly involved and hope they get through this successfully.

Dave


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 8:15 PM
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I didn't make any conclusions. No one can til we have all of the information. The 3 speculations I listed were discussed on redriverclimbing as possibilities as to what happened, based on the information from one of the rescuers.
There is not always something to be learned from accidents. Sorry. That is not ALWAYS true. Sometimes accidents are preventable, and sometimes they aren't. We are human and prone to error. Its easy for us to sit at our computer and decide that if we know all of the information, we could have made different decisions, and maybe that is true, and maybe next time the accident will be you or me.
No one is witholding information. I think the belayer, who is the one with all of the information at this point, is probably more concerned with his friend than posting on rockclimbing.com to tell us what happened and have jay and majid criticize what happened.


glahhg


Apr 22, 2010, 8:21 PM
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karmiclimber wrote:
I didn't make any conclusions. No one can til we have all of the information. The 3 speculations I listed were discussed on redriverclimbing as possibilities as to what happened, based on the information from one of the rescuers.
There is not always something to be learned from accidents. Sorry. That is not ALWAYS true. Sometimes accidents are preventable, and sometimes they aren't. We are human and prone to error. Its easy for us to sit at our computer and decide that if we know all of the information, we could have made different decisions, and maybe that is true, and maybe next time the accident will be you or me.
No one is witholding information. I think the belayer, who is the one with all of the information at this point, is probably more concerned with his friend than posting on rockclimbing.com to tell us what happened and have jay and majid criticize what happened.



You concluded there's nothing to be learned from this accident, without even knowing what happened.

I don't know why you don't want to know what happened, and are fishing for reasons why we shouldn't know either. I think that's a strange position to take. I merely think that if there's information out there, it should be posted, so we can learn from it. Maybe we can't learn from it. But we'll onlyl know that after the details are public.


karmiclimber


Apr 22, 2010, 8:23 PM
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Thats my opinion. I said "I don't think". I didn't say "I know for certain".
My reason for appearing to not want to know what happened at this point is this, I am glad you inquired...I care more about the human life that is at stake right now, than what little information may or may not save my ass on the next climb.


jefffski


Apr 22, 2010, 8:54 PM
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This thread shows just how vulnerable we, as climbers are. When one of us gets injured or dies, many of us feel the pain, just not as acutely as the victim, family, friends, or witnesses.

Knowing what happened gives us closure, among other things, and allows us to move on.

Teasing us with bits of information is insensitive. If you know something, please tell it.

Wishing Mike a speedy recovery.

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