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ceebo


May 7, 2010, 10:22 PM
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Confused
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This has been buging the shit out of me. Yesterday i was at a gym, i went on a f6a+ and 3/4 way through the climb i got completely stuck, i was hanging on for a good 30 seconds looking around trying to figure out what i was suppose to be doing.. i then droped off and had my belayer keep me their so i could try and work out the move.

After a brief rest i tried the move again but got owend once more. Another rest tried it again a difrent way and got owend again. I called it their becouse i didnt wanne be too selfish and gave my partner a turn.

I figured i was just tired or in a rough spot.. so i just forgot about it and then went onto the next climb. Got on a f7a and got to the top with energy to spare.

After that i went on a f6b and again i got to a point that i just could not pass.. after quite a few attempts at the move i could not do it and again gave up..

Then once more i went to a difrent 7a and got 2 moves off the top (was quite tired by then though, felt confident to do it fresh).

So i just cant figure out what the problem is here? the first one really had me scratching my head, cant understand how it owend me so bad, yet almost a full grade above i done with alot less effort.

Really cant see the route setters making such a big grading error? so i assume ive stumbled across a big weakness in my climbing?..

anybody had such an issue like this?


kachoong


May 7, 2010, 10:52 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Confused [In reply to]
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Few options:

1) Join another gym
2) Climb outside coz gym grades do not matter
3) If things don't change after doing either or both 1 and 2, continue to do number 2 at different crags until things start to improve.
4) While you're doing 1, 2 and 3 read up on the Self Coached Climber, eat well, rest well and forget about numbers... except 1, 2, 3 and 4!


bill413


May 7, 2010, 10:57 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Confused [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
This has been buging the shit out of me. Yesterday i was at a gym, i went on a f6a+ and 3/4 way through the climb i got completely stuck, i was hanging on for a good 30 seconds looking around trying to figure out what i was suppose to be doing.. i then droped off and had my belayer keep me their so i could try and work out the move.

After a brief rest i tried the move again but got owend once more. Another rest tried it again a difrent way and got owend again. I called it their becouse i didnt wanne be too selfish and gave my partner a turn.

I figured i was just tired or in a rough spot.. so i just forgot about it and then went onto the next climb. Got on a f7a and got to the top with energy to spare.

After that i went on a f6b and again i got to a point that i just could not pass.. after quite a few attempts at the move i could not do it and again gave up..

Then once more i went to a difrent 7a and got 2 moves off the top (was quite tired by then though, felt confident to do it fresh).

So i just cant figure out what the problem is here? the first one really had me scratching my head, cant understand how it owend me so bad, yet almost a full grade above i done with alot less effort.

Really cant see the route setters making such a big grading error? so i assume ive stumbled across a big weakness in my climbing?..

anybody had such an issue like this?

Sounds like a technique issue to me. Probably the moves on the 6 required a different style than on the 7.
Just because you can climb one style at a certain level doesn't mean you can climb all styles at that level (off-width vs everything else being a classic example). Maybe the 6 required a particular flag move, or foot lock, or a particular sequence that you just didn't discover.

I wouldn't blame the route-setters, I'd try & work it out...maybe get some beta from someone who can climb those climbs.


lena_chita
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May 10, 2010, 2:26 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Confused [In reply to]
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NO one on the internet can tell you the answer to this.

It is possible that the route was mis-graded.

It is possible that you are not doing it righ,t and that's why it feels so hard.

It is possible that a piece of tape fell off and you are misssing a foot/handhold.

If it is REALLY bugging you so much, ask several people whom you trust, in terms of their opinion on the grades, to climb the same routes you have climbed, and tell you what they think of the grades on these routes in relationship to each other.

Also, ask the route-setter to talk you through the moves on the route that you find so difficult, to make sure you are doing what the setter had in mind -- this would also clarify the misssing tape possibility.

You think this one route is way harder than the others. It is a perfectly valid opinion. Feel free to post a note by the start of the climb, tell all your friends, and otherwise vent your frustration. Then take a deep breat hand put it out of your mind. It's a gym route. It is there for training. It is there today, and gone tomorrow.

Bottom line, there is a reason why people will be forever agruing about the grades of routes, so get used to it and don't let it bug you so much. Some things are graded soft, some are sandbagged, some are height-dependent, some are weight-dependent, some require specific technique that you are nto good at, some require knowing the specific beta about hidden holds, etc. etc. etc.


jbro_135


May 10, 2010, 3:20 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Confused [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
some are weight-dependent

really??


lena_chita
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May 10, 2010, 3:35 PM
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Re: [jbro_135] Confused [In reply to]
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jbro_135 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
some are weight-dependent

really??

Clarification for particularly dense readers: taken in the context of the entire phrase, this was meant to explain that some climbs can feel subjectively easier or harder depending on the climbers' body type.


"Weight-dependent" is not a term I came up with, but for some reason every time I climb a crimpy route that some hulk "bro" dude can't climb, I hear that the climb is "weight-dependent". Since it comes from a "bro", it usually comes out very loud, too...


ceebo


May 10, 2010, 4:33 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Confused [In reply to]
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I was suppose to smear bridge across to the next wall slightly overhanging, i allways assosiate that with cheating unless their is a purpesly placed mantle/foot hold etc, it never crossed my mind that the route was intentionally set like that, assumed i was either doing it badly wrong, or that a hold was missing.

So yeah, it was entirely my own fault Blush -10 points for shit awareness.

Does anybody else see climbing like that as ''cheating''? maybe i need to chang emy attitude on it.. and get up the wall any way possible.


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 10, 2010, 4:39 PM)


bill413


May 10, 2010, 4:47 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Confused [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
I was suppose to smear bridge across to the next wall slightly overhanging, i allways assosiate that with cheating unless their is a purpesly placed mantle/foot hold etc, it never crossed my mind that the route was intentionally set like that, assumed i was either doing it badly wrong, or that a hold was missing.

So yeah, it was entirely my own fault Blush -10 points for shit awareness.

Does anybody else see climbing like that as ''cheating''? maybe i need to chang emy attitude on it.. and get up the wall any way possible.

Totally depends on how the route was set, and what is the "normal expectations" at the gym. Some places/routes, any features are on. Some places/routes, certain features or walls are off.


Partner cracklover


May 10, 2010, 5:14 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Confused [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
I was suppose to smear bridge across to the next wall slightly overhanging, i allways assosiate that with cheating unless their is a purpesly placed mantle/foot hold etc, it never crossed my mind that the route was intentionally set like that, assumed i was either doing it badly wrong, or that a hold was missing.

So yeah, it was entirely my own fault Blush -10 points for shit awareness.

Does anybody else see climbing like that as ''cheating''? maybe i need to chang emy attitude on it.. and get up the wall any way possible.

This is exactly why posting the question here on rc.com is so, um, how do I put this kindly, "unique" a solution to your problem.

The correct solution is to talk to the guy at the front desk and say - hey, have you done the blue 6a over there? Yeah? Well how did you get past the fourth bolt? You stemmed? Oh, I didn't think of that! What's that, the tag at the bottom says "all features on"? Gee, do I feel stupid now.

No, you'd rather appear stupid to thousands of people on an international climbing forum than to one guy in the gym?

Okay, that was harsh. But it's Monday, and I'm in a grumpy mood about having to be at work.

I just can't fathom why you'd post your question here where we can't even see the route in question.

Sorry,

GO


Partner cracklover


May 10, 2010, 5:18 PM
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Re: [bill413] Confused [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
Totally depends on how the route was set, and what is the "normal expectations" at the gym. Some places/routes, any features are on. Some places/routes, certain features or walls are off.

Exactly. Ask the guys at your gym what the expectations are of the routesetters. For example, I've been to some gyms where the rule is "if there is one hold on a wall, the whole wall is on, otherwise not".

Besides which, tape falls off, holds spin, holds break, later routes get set on top of earlier ones, making the earlier ones harder, etc etc.

GO


robinsmv


May 10, 2010, 5:32 PM
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ceebo wrote:
I was suppose to smear bridge across to the next wall slightly overhanging, i allways assosiate that with cheating unless their is a purpesly placed mantle/foot hold etc, it never crossed my mind that the route was intentionally set like that, assumed i was either doing it badly wrong, or that a hold was missing.

So yeah, it was entirely my own fault Blush -10 points for shit awareness.

Does anybody else see climbing like that as ''cheating''? maybe i need to chang emy attitude on it.. and get up the wall any way possible.

I don't see it as cheating. The way I view it is that if you were climbing outside along an identical route you would use the same move. If the route setter didn't want you to use that wall then they would have marked that it was not to be used. Now if you were using a crack in between the wall sections or a bolt hole thats a different story in my opinion.


sidepull


May 10, 2010, 5:40 PM
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Let's check on the addition:

1 point for poor spelling
1 point for stupid topic
1 point for zero background information

I could add all this up, but I'm a little billy goat, so I think I'll go see what I can find under the bridge that seems to be eating the other billy goats ...


ceebo


May 10, 2010, 10:11 PM
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Re: [sidepull] Confused [In reply to]
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I never asked at any point to walk me through the route, none of you could.. i only asked if anybody had an issue where they couldnt climb a route they would normally complete.

And keep having a go at people who cant spell, makes you look even more awesome..

Atleast im smart enuf to see the irony in your troll story.. even though i couldnt resist the temptation to reply to it and make it valid.


(This post was edited by ceebo on May 10, 2010, 10:13 PM)


I_do


May 10, 2010, 10:23 PM
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ceebo wrote:
I never asked at any point to walk me through the route, none of you could.. i only asked if anybody had an issue where they couldnt climb a route they would normally complete.

And keep having a go at people who cant spell, makes you look even more awesome..

Atleast im smart enuf to see the irony in your troll story.. even though i couldnt resist the temptation to reply to it and make it valid.


You know there is a spelling check function on this very forum right? That way we can ridicule you for the content of your post instead of your spelling if that makes you feel better.


milesenoell


May 10, 2010, 10:42 PM
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cracklover wrote:
ceebo wrote:
I was suppose to smear bridge across to the next wall slightly overhanging, i allways assosiate that with cheating unless their is a purpesly placed mantle/foot hold etc, it never crossed my mind that the route was intentionally set like that, assumed i was either doing it badly wrong, or that a hold was missing.

So yeah, it was entirely my own fault Blush -10 points for shit awareness.

Does anybody else see climbing like that as ''cheating''? maybe i need to chang emy attitude on it.. and get up the wall any way possible.

This is exactly why posting the question here on rc.com is so, um, how do I put this kindly, "unique" a solution to your problem.

The correct solution is to talk to the guy at the front desk and say - hey, have you done the blue 6a over there? Yeah? Well how did you get past the fourth bolt? You stemmed? Oh, I didn't think of that! What's that, the tag at the bottom says "all features on"? Gee, do I feel stupid now.

No, you'd rather appear stupid to thousands of people on an international climbing forum than to one guy in the gym?

Okay, that was harsh. But it's Monday, and I'm in a grumpy mood about having to be at work.

I just can't fathom why you'd post your question here where we can't even see the route in question.

Sorry,

GO

Gabe pretty much covered it, but the way I see it, all climbs have a level of contrived-ness, ranging from anything goes to only use the specified holds in the specified way, while wearing the approved clothing and listening to the intended music. Gyms tend to be toward the latter end of the spectrum, and outdoor routes tend toward the former, but how you choose to actually climb is your business. The climbs at one of my usual crags are contrived as hell, but it's the minority of climbers who take the specified routes as the only way to climb them.

If a gym route feels too hard or too easy for the grade, I always assume that the grade is intended for some other way of climbing the route... and occasionally I care enough to ask. Most times I just climb. I recommend doing the same.


milesenoell


May 10, 2010, 10:44 PM
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I_do wrote:
ceebo wrote:
I never asked at any point to walk me through the route, none of you could.. i only asked if anybody had an issue where they couldnt climb a route they would normally complete.

And keep having a go at people who cant spell, makes you look even more awesome..

Atleast im smart enuf to see the irony in your troll story.. even though i couldnt resist the temptation to reply to it and make it valid.


You know there is a spelling check function on this very forum right? That way we can ridicule you for the content of your post instead of your spelling if that makes you feel better.

...or just use a browser like Firefox that spell checks everything automatically.


I_do


May 11, 2010, 7:24 AM
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Re: [milesenoell] Confused [In reply to]
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milesenoell wrote:
I_do wrote:
ceebo wrote:
I never asked at any point to walk me through the route, none of you could.. i only asked if anybody had an issue where they couldnt climb a route they would normally complete.

And keep having a go at people who cant spell, makes you look even more awesome..

Atleast im smart enuf to see the irony in your troll story.. even though i couldnt resist the temptation to reply to it and make it valid.


You know there is a spelling check function on this very forum right? That way we can ridicule you for the content of your post instead of your spelling if that makes you feel better.

...or just use a browser like Firefox that spell checks everything automatically.

I haven't gone through the trouble of finding how to change the spell check language from Dutch to English. Google Chrome ftw btw


ceebo


May 11, 2010, 12:24 PM
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Well ty for the more constructive replys.

Try not to divert that into the constructive learn to spell posts yeah?.


dan2see


May 11, 2010, 1:47 PM
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ceebo wrote:
Well ty for the more constructive replys.

Try not to divert that into the constructive learn to spell posts yeah?.

rc.com has thousands of readers, so each one of your mis-spelling mis-teaks gets read by a lot of climbers who aren't climbing -- they're reading your post!

When you present yourself to the public, you should try to look as dumb as you really are, instead of stupid and careless besides.

Here's some advice that others have already posted on your thread (yes it's your thread).

1. Get Firefox. It automatically checks your spelling as you type. It doesn't fix it for you, but the red underline is a clear sign that you're gonna piss folks off again.

2. When you have finished typing your post, you will look down, two inches below the edit-box and over the right. You'll see three buttons, "Preview Post", "Check Spelling", and "Post Reply". We know you've seen them. You had to see them, to post the OP to your thread (yes it's your thread).

So first hit the "Check Spelling" and look at the red underlined words. Some of those are OK, but your mistakes will be in there, too. Fix them. Then hit the "Preview Post" and look at the page. Go back to your edit box to make any last-minute changes. Finally, hit the "Post Reply". Sit back and smile to yourself, knowing you've done it correctly.

Remember all those nice folks on rockclimbing.com who are reading your post. They're not climbing -- they are sitting in front of a computer, reading your post!


jbro_135


May 11, 2010, 1:55 PM
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lena_chita wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
some are weight-dependent

really??

Clarification for particularly dense readers: taken in the context of the entire phrase, this was meant to explain that some climbs can feel subjectively easier or harder depending on the climbers' body type.


"Weight-dependent" is not a term I came up with, but for some reason every time I climb a crimpy route that some hulk "bro" dude can't climb, I hear that the climb is "weight-dependent". Since it comes from a "bro", it usually comes out very loud, too...

climbing is harder for fat people, don't know what that has to do with grading tho


dan2see


May 11, 2010, 1:57 PM
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This summer, I'm not working! I'm going to college, in the afternoons. So in the morning, I have lots of time to study posts in these forums, and then compose my smart-ass replies.

O! the power!

And I gotta be honest: Most of my week-end outings, I do a lot of solo scrambles. So technically I'm not climbing, but in fact I always get some free-solo rock somewhere on my explorations.

So for me, technique and training is very appropriate. Also scary. And fun.


milesenoell


May 11, 2010, 2:35 PM
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I_do wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
I_do wrote:
ceebo wrote:
I never asked at any point to walk me through the route, none of you could.. i only asked if anybody had an issue where they couldnt climb a route they would normally complete.

And keep having a go at people who cant spell, makes you look even more awesome..

Atleast im smart enuf to see the irony in your troll story.. even though i couldnt resist the temptation to reply to it and make it valid.


You know there is a spelling check function on this very forum right? That way we can ridicule you for the content of your post instead of your spelling if that makes you feel better.

...or just use a browser like Firefox that spell checks everything automatically.

I haven't gone through the trouble of finding how to change the spell check language from Dutch to English. Google Chrome ftw btw

One of the best reasons to use Firefox is that it is intended to be tweaked and customized and gives more (and easier to use) tools to do that than any other browser I know of.


lena_chita
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May 11, 2010, 3:11 PM
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jbro_135 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
some are weight-dependent

really??

Clarification for particularly dense readers: taken in the context of the entire phrase, this was meant to explain that some climbs can feel subjectively easier or harder depending on the climbers' body type.


"Weight-dependent" is not a term I came up with, but for some reason every time I climb a crimpy route that some hulk "bro" dude can't climb, I hear that the climb is "weight-dependent". Since it comes from a "bro", it usually comes out very loud, too...

climbing is harder for fat people, don't know what that has to do with grading tho

This has absolutely nothing to do with this thread, and I have obviously stepped on your bunions at some earlier point, for which I apologize...

But since you insist on nit-picking, do you mean that heavy people don't have an opinion on route grades and cannot grade routes? Could you please specify at which BMI point someone is not entitled to having an opinion?

Or do you insist that you cannot possibly conceive of a situation in which person A, weighing 100 pounds (and having proportionally smaller fingers, etc.), calls route 1 harder than route 2, while person B, weighting 200 pounds, calls route 2 harder than route 1?


jbro_135


May 12, 2010, 12:14 AM
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lena_chita wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
some are weight-dependent

really??

Clarification for particularly dense readers: taken in the context of the entire phrase, this was meant to explain that some climbs can feel subjectively easier or harder depending on the climbers' body type.


"Weight-dependent" is not a term I came up with, but for some reason every time I climb a crimpy route that some hulk "bro" dude can't climb, I hear that the climb is "weight-dependent". Since it comes from a "bro", it usually comes out very loud, too...

climbing is harder for fat people, don't know what that has to do with grading tho

This has absolutely nothing to do with this thread, and I have obviously stepped on your bunions at some earlier point, for which I apologize...

But since you insist on nit-picking, do you mean that heavy people don't have an opinion on route grades and cannot grade routes? Could you please specify at which BMI point someone is not entitled to having an opinion?

Or do you insist that you cannot possibly conceive of a situation in which person A, weighing 100 pounds (and having proportionally smaller fingers, etc.), calls route 1 harder than route 2, while person B, weighting 200 pounds, calls route 2 harder than route 1?

You didn't step on my toes, you called me "particularly dense".

Having smaller fingers is completely different. I don't see how being heavy would effect the grade of a route, does a 5.9 roof become a 5.12 for fat people? What kind of climbing are fat people better at? Your point makes no sense and I think you are stupid, why are you always posting useless crap


sungam


May 16, 2010, 12:26 PM
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dan2see wrote:
Remember all those nice folks on rockclimbing.com who are reading your post. They're not climbing -- they are sitting in front of a computer, reading your post!
I've posted from a P3 belay on TJgosurf's blackberry.

EDIT: Or was that P2? Or was... hmmm, maybe it was MJwestla's phone. Anyways, yeah.


(This post was edited by sungam on May 16, 2010, 12:27 PM)

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