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enigma
Dec 14, 2002, 8:13 PM
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A climbing partner of mine wants to do one,with of course the necessary training involved. He's talking about Washington's Column,Royal Arches. I would like suggestions for a first "big wall". Just a one day project.My longest route has been in Squamish thus far,17 pitches,(ultimate everything,with rock on ) at the Chief).
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zzsean
Dec 14, 2002, 8:37 PM
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Royal arches is not really a "big wall" or even a "big route"
It is definitely a fun route, but most of it is very easy so you should be able to climbing very quickly.
In yosemite I would suggest the East Buttress of El Cap as a great rout to do. It is a blast with incredible position.
The East Buttress of Middle Cathedral is also another mega-classic.
Both of these routes are long fun days out but that have most of the climbing at a very moderate level (both of them are rated at 5.10b, but for both the .10b moves are very short and bolt protected - and if they feel hard or intimidating able to be A0'd by pulling on the draws.)
Beta on East Buttress of Middle Cathedral
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yomceast
Beta on East Buttress of El Cap
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yoeleast
Peace.
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enigma
Dec 14, 2002, 8:43 PM
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Thanks on that info and the site,what about this Washington Column?? Has anyone done that??
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topher
Dec 14, 2002, 9:14 PM
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is cool hey! did you make the 11d move or did you pull on the sling. i have never been able to comite to a hard move that high off the deck and wuss out. thats a good size big trad route. 17 pitchs is fairly long.
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elcapbuzz
Dec 14, 2002, 9:38 PM
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enigma,
Washington Column, like most formations in Yosemite, has a lot of different routes on it. I think you'll get more beta if you can be more specific on what route you want to climb, difficulties, etc.
The South Face on WC is a good place to start if you want a mix of free and aid climbing. It's the most popular "wall route" in the Valley so expect traffic and delays.
Also, the West Face of Leaning Tower is a good place to start. These are usually done in two days but can easily be done in one..... if you're on top of things.
Good luck, Ammon
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valygrl
Dec 14, 2002, 9:38 PM
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Hey Enigma,
What are you looking for? I usually think of "one day project" and "big wall" as being mutually exclusive. You looking for a long free route, or an intro aid climb?
I did the South Face of Washington Column as my first (successful) big wall (by which I mean multi-day aid climb). It is lots of peoples' first wall. I did it in about a day and a half of climbing.
There is a ton of info on the www about it, try Tuans site or google rec.climbing for links. I found a lot of people's trip reports for it. 10 pitches, with a killer ledge at 3 to sleep on. A1 or A1+, a little free climbing required. Bad hauling, I hear, but I did it with a piglet, not a monster pig, so it wasn't an issue.
The crowds are the crux. Expect to spend a day or more waiting in line.
Royal Arches is a separate route, but is near the SF of WC and shares the descent. It's 14 pitches of easy fun climbing, with one A0 move or a couple of dicey (well, dicey looking, it was A0 for me) 10a?b? slab moves.
PM me if you want way too much information
Anna
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jonzoclimber
Dec 15, 2002, 12:58 AM
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god i suck
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enigma
Dec 15, 2002, 5:39 AM
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Thanks for all the ideas,I think I would prefer a route where its a small amount of aid. One that can be done in a day. Obviously Squamish"The Ultimate Everything" is a long trad route,but doesn't qualify as a "big wall". Incidentally it only had a small section of aid, and one move I did free,the other stepping into a sling. I don't think it was an 11d,topher.
Any other ideas on routes that other climbers have had success on,or other ideas would be greately appreciated.
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ronamick
Dec 17, 2002, 12:20 AM
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It's not a wall, but consider the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. About 14 pitches of classic lieback and crack, hardest pitch 5.9, witha a short, bolted crux at 5.10c. Awesome.
For a wall, South face ofWashington Column. Not too long, approach is short, and it's real climbable, but plenty of air.
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billcoe_
Dec 17, 2002, 3:20 PM
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The S face of WC was my first "wall", great route and I highly recommend it. I think that the leaning tower approach kind of sucks, hey, class 4? uhhhh, whew. You say you want a 1 day project, those may be out depending on your speed, but especially on the traffic.
BUT, there is a much better line nearer to you, great rock, great location, less crowds (worse weather though). East face of Liberty Bell. And, you should be able to crank it in a day (but it is a grade 5). I haven't seen a recent topo, but my memory is that you can do it at @5.8 and aid, or if you're a mid 5.10 climber you can free @ 98 % of it which is what we did and did it in a long August day, getting off just as the sun disappeared and hiking out in the dark. We climb faster than many people, and you don't say how fast you are, but if you can crank 17 pitches in a day you can easilly do this line. I think that this would be about a 15-20 min day for Ammon or Hans florine through!!!Kind of depends on your skill I suppose. There are some real nice climbs in that area of Early Winter spire/Liberty Bell. This one is as good as anything in the valley IMO.
If you're going to Yosemite, there is a thread somewhere on rc.com about the better long routes to do there and it seems real accurate and fairly through to me. If your planig on early in the year, of course the North Cascades are out unless you crampon up or ski up to them. I won't repeat the Yosemite list here, although I didn't see Rixons or Bircheff-williams on middle cathredral on the list.
Have fun man
Bill
Edited to add:
PS, 1 second the recommendation for East Buttress of Middle Cathredral. Awesome route.
[ This Message was edited by: billcoe_ on 2002-12-17 07:25 ]
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twrock
Dec 18, 2002, 8:47 AM
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Valygrl is right. "Wall in a day" and "big wall climbing" are somewhat different games. Approaching a big wall as a day route means that you don't consider hauling systems or bivies. That alone will change everything about the experience.
Having said that, the South Face of WC was my first big wall. It is a great first route, and believe it or not, we had it to ourselves in July. ( http://www.geocities.com/taiwan_rock/south_face.html ) It certainly can be done bottom to top without hauling and bivying by many parties in a day who have the requisite clean aid experience. With three ropes, you could even fix to half-way through the fifth pitch and fire for the top the second day.
But I gotta say that a night on Dinner Ledge is simply awesome. Well worth the experience. If you really want to "climb a big wall," you are going to eventually have to figure out how to deal with hauling and bivies. The South Face WC or West Face LT are relatively simple ways to break into it, hence they are many people's first big walls.
And who knows, you might get lucky like us and have it to yourself.
[ This Message was edited by: twrock on 2002-12-18 00:52 ]
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