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harpo_the_climber
Jun 17, 2010, 4:29 PM
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What biner to people reccomend for racking nuts? I dropped two yesterday, I think because they got caugt in the notch for the gate as I was taking them on and off my gear sling.
I currently rack my stoppers on Omega Pacific Dovals, like the shape and size, but I think I would have better luck with a keylock? notcless? gated biner. I am looking at the WC Helium and the DMM Shield, but was hoping for a biner that was wide enough on both ends to hold a bunch of nuts.
Suggestions?
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shoo
Jun 17, 2010, 4:50 PM
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I personally like notchless ovals. I know of 3 (Petzl Owall, DMM Ultra-O, and CAMP compact oval), but there may be more out there.
I use the petzl variety, but that's only because they were easily available.
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caughtinside
Jun 17, 2010, 5:03 PM
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The helium works good if you're racking just a few nuts per biner, 5, 6 max in my opinion. More, and you're better using a solid gate oval.
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patmay81
Jun 17, 2010, 6:03 PM
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I personally use a couple of retired OP mod. D's (cant remember the exact name). They are nothing special, just have a huge gate opening so I dont have to fumble around with getting the nuts off.
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clews
Jun 17, 2010, 6:38 PM
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I definitely wouldn't use a notched biner for my nuts. That just sounds like a bad idea.
I just use whatever notchless retired biner I can find at home.
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kjaking
Jun 17, 2010, 7:07 PM
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patmay81 wrote: I personally use a couple of retired OP mod. D's (cant remember the exact name). They are nothing special, just have a huge gate opening so I dont have to fumble around with getting the nuts off.
Retired? I never use retired gear for anything except setting up slacklines a couple feet off the ground - if you can't use it, why carry it? Every piece of gear you are carrying should be capable of being used in case you need to. If you ever ran out of biners, you would be left wondering if that D is capable of saving you. Better to just use something newish that you like. D's are good just because they take up less space/weight than ovals, but anything works if you aren't clumsy.
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jrathfon
Jun 17, 2010, 7:09 PM
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patmay81 wrote: so I dont have to fumble around with getting the nuts off.
sorry that's a problem for ya....
aw. too easy....
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Scooter12ga
Jun 17, 2010, 7:38 PM
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These http://www.rei.com/product/760240 key gates have worked well for me so far. The way-honed hated on me the last time I mentioned the key gate, but whatever. Do what works for you.
(This post was edited by Scooter12ga on Jun 17, 2010, 7:40 PM)
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tomtom
Jun 17, 2010, 8:07 PM
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I use a BD Ovalwire. The notch doesn't bother me.
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spikeddem
Jun 18, 2010, 3:32 AM
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i prefer a notched biner as it can prevent a whole host of them from sliding straight off. i'd heard stories before, but it almost happened to me. the notch on my biner caught the front wire and stopped all the others. woo!
notched oval.
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patto
Jun 18, 2010, 4:10 AM
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Kong notchless Ovals.
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mattsheat
Jun 18, 2010, 10:14 AM
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Anything oval with a key-lock nose I find are good. I have also used BD oval wire gates which work well but are a bit more annoying than a biner with a snag free nose.
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swaghole
Jun 18, 2010, 11:03 AM
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I use a cheap oval biners with a notch. The notch can get in the way sometimes. On the other hand, the notch stopped me from dropping my nuts on a few occasions - the wire gets caught in the notch when the biner gate is open while fiddling with the gear.
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acorneau
Jun 18, 2010, 12:30 PM
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15 year old BD ovals here.
I think the notched-nose issue/feature is a double-edged sword that cuts both ways. Honestly though, I think it's not a big deal either way.
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bill413
Jun 18, 2010, 2:11 PM
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acorneau wrote: 15 year old BD ovals here. I think the notched-nose issue/feature is a double-edged sword that cuts both ways. Honestly though, I think it's not a big deal either way.
I switched from notched (Chounard D's) to keylock. Not a big deal, but I'm happier with the keylock.
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swoopee
Jun 18, 2010, 3:18 PM
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I have some 35 year old SMC and REI biners that I use. I would say just use whatever you already have.
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psprings
Jun 18, 2010, 4:15 PM
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acorneau wrote: 15 year old BD ovals here. I think the notched-nose issue/feature is a double-edged sword that cuts both ways. Honestly though, I think it's not a big deal either way.
This.
I also don't like wiregates for racking wired nuts because they can unclip themselves fairly easily if the biner flips on your gear loop. Just my 2 cents... notched or keylock doesn't matter that much, imo.
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patmay81
Jun 18, 2010, 4:33 PM
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kjaking wrote: patmay81 wrote: I personally use a couple of retired OP mod. D's (cant remember the exact name). They are nothing special, just have a huge gate opening so I dont have to fumble around with getting the nuts off. Retired? I never use retired gear for anything except setting up slacklines a couple feet off the ground - if you can't use it, why carry it? Every piece of gear you are carrying should be capable of being used in case you need to. If you ever ran out of biners, you would be left wondering if that D is capable of saving you. Better to just use something newish that you like. D's are good just because they take up less space/weight than ovals, but anything works if you aren't clumsy.
All that said, I've never "ran out of biners" and had to resort to clipping my nut racking biners.
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patmay81
Jun 18, 2010, 4:35 PM
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jrathfon wrote: patmay81 wrote: so I dont have to fumble around with getting the nuts off. sorry that's a problem for ya.... aw. too easy....
Yeah, I actually saw that one coming! 
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moose_droppings
Jun 18, 2010, 4:56 PM
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Notched or not, it depends on the individual. Personally I use BD wire ovals.
What really matters is that they match the color of your rope and shoes.
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bergbryce
Jul 14, 2010, 12:53 AM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2006
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I've tried several, started w/ notched ovals like the BD stoppers come with. Then went to key locks of various types then finally bought a Petzl oval (no notch). After one day of climbing with one of these I bought another for the other half of my nuts. Won't ever use anything besides an un-notched oval biner.
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socalclimber
Jul 14, 2010, 1:21 AM
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What ever biner I happen to rack them on.
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johnwesely
Jul 14, 2010, 1:57 AM
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patmay81 wrote: All that said, I've never "ran out of biners" and had to resort to clipping my nut racking biners.
Then your carrying too much gear.
Seriously though, I use notched wiregates for my nuts. I have never had a problem with snags.
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mbrd
Aug 19, 2011, 6:17 AM
Post #24 of 24
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Registered: Aug 11, 2011
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best racking carabiner?
yeah, the "double edged sword" thing is definitely true.
i went from coonyard light d's ('cause they were all i bought) to petzl spirit straights ('cause spirits were all i bought years later, and because they were key locks).
i don't remember actually losing any gear in either case, but i know that i have dropped pieces while racking out at the belay, and pre/post climb, for both the reasons of having, and not having the notch.
so, i'd like to pose a new question, just to complicate things:
i recently bought a bunch of madrock ovaltechs, because i thought i might prefer the non-bunching qualities of an oval for racking nuts (all of my nuts are wires). i have not yet climbed with this setup, but now i am concerned about how shallow the open gate end of the ovaltech is, compared to the relatively deep gate end of the spirits. my thinking is that with a keylock, one is going to want the depth to help prevent the "lemmings over the lip" effect with wired nuts. aaackk...
so now my question is, has anyone ever actually compared these two particular 'biners for racking, or for that matter, the wire racking characteristics of any oval keylocks versus straight gate d keylocks?
i generally rack five to seven pieces per 'biner, all nuts and loweballs (5 per on the balls), no hexes. i may change that if i stay with the ovals.
one way or the other, i'm gonna end up with a dozen or so free 'biners, so- i guess that's a good thing...
oh, and moose- at least they do match my rope and shoes. as climbers, we have certain responsibilities!
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