He wants me to pay for all the medical bills ($3000 - $5000), his motel on the way home (I slept in the truck because he wasn’t talking to me), replacing the two pieces of gear left on the route, and any work that he might lose as a result of the finger surgery. Seems to me we should share in this cost. What do you think?

Now I really wanted to be tied into the bottom of the rope, but couldn’t let go of my brake hand on the belay.

The problem was, now my attention was on him, up to my left and not on the rope.

Without offering an opinion on the legal stuff, I re-read this, and wanted to comment:

You need to learn to tie a knot in the rope behind the belay device with one hand.

It's not difficult. It takes some practice, sure, but it can be done. I've done it wearing mittens.

Lastly, you mention this:


That part right there is where you fucked up.

Don't do it again. You're the belayer... you should ALWAYS be paying attention to the rope. Where is it? How much is left? Do I need to stop lowering my leader and tie a knot?

You're the BELAYER, dude. You're entire world should consist of the rope.

Without offering an opinion on the legal stuff, I re-read this, and wanted to comment:

You need to learn to tie a knot in the rope behind the belay device with one hand.

Ed was leading a single pitch climb: The plan was for him to lead and belay me up from the top. It is Ed’s standard practice to belay the second from the middle of the rope, the second being tied in with a figure-eight knot clipped to their harness.

This is a new concept to me. All of my previous climbing experiences would have me tie into the bottom of the rope as the second before the leader goes up to prevent any chance of the end of the rope going through the belay device.
The advantage of Ed’s system is that it’s more expedient, since the rest of the rope doesn’t need to be pulled up by the leader before the second can begin climbing. However, it negates the possibility of either tying a stopper knot in the end of the rope (which could easily get snagged) or tying in to the bottom of the rope.

We had both looked at the route in the book. It was unstated whether a 60m rope was enough for this route. The description of the next route over said ‘use a 60m.’ Ed said ’I hope we don’t f**k ourselves using one rope’.

We talked briefly about communicating if we couldn’t hear each other when he was at the top. (3 tugs from Ed = off belay, 3 tugs from me = climbing, 3 tugs from Ed = on belay ).
Since this was an exposed belay spot, Ed placed a big cam in front of me to tie into. It was a marginal placement, but better than nothing. The rope was in the rope bag resting in a ‘slot’ to my right. The slot was about 18” deep, 18” wide, and 3’ long – just big enough to hold the rope.

Ed began the lead with a blue sky and moderate winds. By the time he was halfway up the route, the sky had darkened and there were very imposing black clouds bearing down on us. I yelled up “We might get wet.” Ed said ‘thanks for letting me know’ and hastened his progress.

When the halfway mark came through the belay device, I yelled ‘Ed, halfway’. He said “OK”, and continued up 15 or so feet further.

At the top, he yelled ‘slack’, then ‘I’m putting the rope through the chains, and you can lower me’
Now I really wanted to be tied into the bottom of the rope, but couldn’t let go of my brake hand on the belay. Looking at the rope in that slot, I knew I’d need two hands to find the bottom, which was not an option. I noticed that I could climb to my left for 8 or 10 feet if I needed to get higher at the end of the belay to get Ed down to the ground, so I decided to put on my climbing shoes with one hand still on the belay brake. By the time I had one shoe on, Ed yelled ‘take and lower’. It was blowing harder now, and the storm was getting close.

I lowered Ed slowly and he took out gear on his way down. When he was about 30 above me, a nut popped out of its spot and hit him on the leg. He said ’I’m ok, don’t worry about it’. I think he said ‘I’ll leave the last two pieces for you to take out’.

The problem was, now my attention was on him, up to my left and not on the rope. I was still anchored in. I forgot about the rope, and lowered him down right next to where I was standing. As his feet almost touched down on the rock beside me, the end of the rope went through the belay device, and Ed was falling.

He was leaning back, so when the rope went slack he tipped back and fell 15 or 20’ to the rock below, landing hard on his left butt cheek. He came off that rock and rolled through a scrubby tree, landing mostly on ground about 10’ lower. There were some smaller rocks on the ground, and I think that’s where he broke his finger. He was not wearing a helmet. It was a miracle he survived.

I know it is my job as belayer to keep my leader safe, and that my inattention definitely led to this outcome. Believe me, I feel terrible about the accident. I know I will never, ever let anyone go up a pitch without being tied in or having a stopper knot in the bottom of the rope.

My question is this – does Ed share any responsibility morally, ethically, or financially (medical bills) for this? Is he not complicit in any way, (as he claims) in sharing any responsibility? I contend that he knew the risk of going up without the rope being secured on a long route just to save himself the minute or two of pulling up extra rope at the top.

He wants me to pay for all the medical bills ($3000 - $5000), his motel on the way home (I slept in the truck because he wasn’t talking to me), replacing the two pieces of gear left on the route, and any work that he might lose as a result of the finger surgery. Seems to me we should share in this cost. What do you think?

Every so often people post things here that make me think they just don't understand the level of responsibility that is inherent in climbing. Very rarely, however, that lack of understanding seems so profound that I write something like this: I think this a fortuitous wake up call for both you. Quit climbing now. Please tell Ed I said the same for him.

As for the OP question, by all means get a lawyer. It sounds like you will need one or more.

why wasn't the end of the rope tied into the rope bag?

... you fucked up, but it was a team effort in teh fuckery, it sounds like.

This is the second time in the thread that someone has recommended that the OP get a lawyer, and, as I understand it, albeit from a lay perspective, there is no reason that he should fear legal action. I would think that any competent attorney would not take Ed's case, because, owing to the defense of assumption of risk, a lawsuit would be all but hopeless.

Jay

Now I really wanted to be tied into the bottom of the rope, but couldn’t let go of my brake hand on the belay. Looking at the rope in that slot, I knew I’d need two hands to find the bottom, which was not an option.

I noticed that I could climb to my left for 8 or 10 feet if I needed to get higher at the end of the belay to get Ed down to the ground, so I decided to put on my climbing shoes with one hand still on the belay brake. By the time I had one shoe on, Ed yelled ‘take and lower’. It was blowing harder now, and the storm was getting close.

Any chance of posting you real names so we can be sure never to climb with you?

Ed is an idiot and an asshole whereas you're merely incompetent.

Often times I think you're a little harsh. This isn't one of them.

LOL.

You both where harsh, but I have to concur with you both.
This ain't no day hike people. If you can't think on your feet, then stay in the gym.

Every so often people post things here that make me think they just don't understand the level of responsibility that is inherent in climbing. Very rarely, however, that lack of understanding seems so profound that I write something like this: I think this a fortuitous wake up call for both you. Quit climbing now. Please tell Ed I said the same for him.

The cynic in me wants to believe that this is T2+. It's just too descriptive and too stupid.

If it is not, I'm fairly certain that any lawyer would tell you not to put your account into writing on the intardwebs.

I think if you're in a situation that opens you up to potential legal liability, you should not post about it on a website.