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danielb
Dec 17, 2002, 2:58 PM
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I usually climb with my girlfriend and other people who are allot lighter than me (I am 95kg/210lbs and she must be about half my weight) and I and she usually use HB sherif as our belay devices for trad. I am a bit worried that the slickness of this device and her light weight may be a problem for her catch someone my weight falling off especially with the frequency I fall off sport routes!
So I am wondering what would be a more grabby belay device for her to use? As its mainly for use in sport climbing I am wondering if a SRC or GriGri might be the better option?
DanielB
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billcoe_
Dec 17, 2002, 3:05 PM
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Daniel, have her try a second carabiner first. (make sure they are the same size, so 2 d's or 2 ovals - non-locking, ONLY if they are opposed and reversed, or 2 lockers of the same size)
BTW: I have a DMC Bug and it's awesome, also, the tuber can be reversed so that the small end can be used on small or icy ropes. Or spend the money on a gri-gri.
Bill
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climber23
Dec 17, 2002, 3:05 PM
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Try using an ATC belay device, and an ancor
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kam_ill_eon
Dec 17, 2002, 3:08 PM
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If you are sincerely worried, the Gri-Gri is pretty fail-safe. It is quite a hassel to become accustomed to after using a different belay device because the style of belay is changed greatly. As far as the safety aspect, the Gri-Gri has won my trust countless times.
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topher
Dec 17, 2002, 3:36 PM
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i never liked the gri gir untill i started doing lots of sprot climbing (and cleaing of routes) but for sport it is exelent. if your working a route its awsome because if you hang the thing never slips an inch or two like atcs. however it is a costly pice of gear. look around and see if you know some one who maybe is a trad climber that doesnt need/want theres any more. thats what i did. failing that atach her to the ground. and that belay device she is using will hold you she just might not. as long as she is using it right and possably tyed to the ground you should be fine.
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lazide
Dec 17, 2002, 3:48 PM
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Personally I have found the Trango Jaws has made more than a few lighter belayers happier You can rig it 'backwards' for the extra extra grab, and it works quite well.
I have one that I lend out from time to time, but I usually find that after a month or so whoever it was that was borrowing returns it because their grip strength is up to snuff enough that they don't need it, and they want the extra smooth feed from the ATC again.
The extra grab does make it pretty jerky for lowering/rapelling for light climbers.
As always, YMMV.
(p.s. gri-gri's rule if your climber likes hangdogging, no matter how burly you are)
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ljthawk
Dec 17, 2002, 3:56 PM
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Take a look at
http://server502.hypermart.net/seclimbers/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?s=3dff41b24046ffff;act=ST;f=1;t=529
for an interesting discussion on Gri-Gri's.
L.J.
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nbrown
Dec 17, 2002, 4:08 PM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2002
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Use a gri-gri
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mountainmonkey
Dec 17, 2002, 4:27 PM
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If you do get a GriGri make sure that you either skip the first clip or hope the first bolt it pretty high. If the belayer is sucked up into the first QD, the locking mechanism can be released. This is usually not an issue unless the fall is huge or the belayer is very light compared to the leader.
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daisuke
Dec 17, 2002, 4:40 PM
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I say go with the gri-gri, I have the simond cubik which is similar to the trango jaws, and have used the jaws too, I can say that the toothed side helps, but there is nothing like a gri-gri for belaying people, especially those heavier than yourself. the only problem with gri gris is using them to belay people on lead, it can take some time to learn to stop a fall properly
D
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danl
Dec 17, 2002, 5:08 PM
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Try a ATC/Sherrif with a second biner. I think these devices feed a lot smoother than a gri gri.
If you do get a gri gri or even if you don't learn the art of the dynamic belay.
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rockfox
Dec 17, 2002, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2002
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Petzl Reverso! It's only a couple of dollars more than and ATC (it's $21 or less) but WAY cheaper than a GriGri and it has MULTIPLE configurations and can belay directly from an anchor.
I am 200 lbs exactly and I was belayed by my anchored, 100 lb +/-, (15 years old) skinny, brother-in-law. I just had him put it in reverse mode (not to be confused with auto-lock mode, which it can also do) and threw on 2 HB HMS locking 'biners. He caught every fall with no slip. Oh, and that was on a 10mm x 60m rope.
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djnibs
Dec 17, 2002, 6:49 PM
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I agree with rockfox. get a reverso. if your cheap (like me) through a second biner onto the belay device you have now. it should help. but if not, pick up a reverso. i love mine.
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climb4life
Dec 17, 2002, 7:45 PM
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it depends on who and what kind of climbing i am doing. for sport climb with a beginner, i love the gri-gri. sure save my hands from holding on too long. however, even though it is "pretty" sure it is fail proof, i always have at least a hand on the rope just in case anything happens.
if i am on a sport route with a very experience fast climber, i usually go for hte ACT because i can feed the rope out a lot faster and smoother than the gri-gri. for trad climbing and i am climbig and my belayer have little exerpience with lead beleay, i prefer my belayer to be on ACT becuase it is more likely he/she will be more fimilar with the device.
don't get me wrong, i love the gri gri. but the problem with gri gri, is that people can become lazy and not be holding the rope long enough then switch to ACT, man, that makes me a little nervous.
i guess, it all depends on what kind of climb and who i am with.
climb on
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jt512
Dec 17, 2002, 8:29 PM
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The grigri is well-suited for belaying leaders working hard sport routes. The deivice provides an added margin of safety when used properly. However, a grigri in the hands of a beginner can be scary. Beginners should be thoroughly trained in how to set up and operate the device. It takes practice to learn to use the device smoothly without compromising safety.
-Jay
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petsfed
Dec 17, 2002, 8:35 PM
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Reverso is way too much for just sport climbing. Get an ATC if you dig tubes. I got my Reverso as I do a lot of trad, and have every intention of getting into ice and alpine ice, where it really comes into its own. For just day cragging, its overkill.
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coldclimb
Dec 17, 2002, 9:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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...but it's only something like 20 bucks. Well worth the cost, even if it's overkill. Then you'l always have it in case you need it.
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