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richardsmith
May 11, 2010, 3:17 PM
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Looking to go climbing saturday and sunday at either mt washington cliffs or beams rocks, PM if interested... i also i picked up extra gear for 2 more ppl
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mountainman
Jun 7, 2010, 3:17 AM
Post #1952 of 2156
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I hope everyone's getting out. This week should be cooler and much more pleasant.
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cruxicon
Jun 10, 2010, 4:18 PM
Post #1953 of 2156
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taking a friend out for his first outdoor climbing, any suggestions as to where to go? Was thinking breakneck but would like to try something different. We will probably be top roping.
Is whiterocks bolted?
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climbingpa
Jun 13, 2010, 4:59 PM
Post #1954 of 2156
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No bolted stuff at Whiterocks. Trad and T-rope lines there.
Here are a few other places that might suite you or any visiting climber. For toprope and trad try Fish Rocks or Coll's Cove. For mostly mixed/trad, with a bolt here and there the crags to try are The Knobs a.k.a Rob's Knob or The Lost Crag. Best sport cilmbing would have to be Ohiopyle and Breakneck.
Hope you and your friend has a good time!
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mountainman
Jun 27, 2010, 12:28 PM
Post #1955 of 2156
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7 of us went into Rob's Knobs Saturday. It was delightfully cool and breezy all day. The rock was very dry and rough. Ray and Pete did some awesome leads, everyone was climbing extremely well. I even found some ripe black raspberries on the way out!
I'm adding several of us went to Two Big Rocks and have a great time. All the climbs are quite demanding. There's no way to scramble to set up top ropes. The way in is obscure.
Also went to Locust Grove at Cumberland Friday in high heat. Despite that had a very good day.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Jul 18, 2010, 5:10 AM)
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mountainman
Jul 26, 2010, 8:25 PM
Post #1956 of 2156
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We had a superb day at Coopers Wednesday, finding dry rock in the midst of wet!
We got in four great hours at Colls Sunday until the Heavens opened. I thought one bolt of lightening was my death knell, but it was just uncomfortably close. The rock was a little greasy from the humidity. Already looking forward to fall.
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charley
Jul 30, 2010, 12:35 PM
Post #1957 of 2156
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Leaving in a few for coopers.
Great day,great rock, great weather, and great folks to climb with.
AAAAHHHH did I say it was a great day.
(This post was edited by charley on Jul 31, 2010, 1:49 AM)
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mountainman
Aug 2, 2010, 12:03 AM
Post #1958 of 2156
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I had the incredible day of climbing this year:
We met at Ohiopyle State Park at 9:30, and rode 5 miles down the bike trail to School House Rocks. The day was sweet and cool like an autumn day. I did the two hardest climbs of the year, a 5.10d and a 5.11a. Yes I had to hang at each crux, but completed each climb. I even did an onsight lead!
Later we moved down to Maple Rock, and just had time to do one climb, which spanked me, but I must have been tired. The ride out was fantastic, all these young families on bikes.
The climbing community needs to thank Tim Anderson for all his hard work developing such a stunning place. Throngs have enjoyed Breakneck and the Lost Crag and just take them for granted. Tim worked hard and spent a lot of money making them nice. I saw the steps and the benches and knew it was his hand. Good job, mate, and thanks.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Aug 2, 2010, 3:26 AM)
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mountainman
Aug 10, 2010, 8:31 AM
Post #1959 of 2156
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Several of us met to climb the Snake Hill Cracks in Morgantown Sunday.
Awesome, and quite stout. Nothing bolted, but there are open shuts.
I was most diminished by the time we moved to the Snowflake Wall, but did four more climbs then we called it a day. A nice destination.
I'm not sure I got anything clean, but it was a great day anyway.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Aug 10, 2010, 7:32 PM)
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mountainman
Aug 10, 2010, 7:27 PM
Post #1960 of 2156
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There was a recent accident and rescue at Ohiopyle, Meadow Run area.
It must have been July 6, 2010.
This is written by XPat, who was the lady's partner:
She is a very experienced climber with lots of alpine accomplishments. She was using the short single pitch for training. We set up a TR using the bolts for the anchor. She had flashed the route 3 times in about 15 minutes. She wanted to climb it "one last time" before we took a break. We had been climbing all morning.
She made it to the top of the pitch quickly without problems. She was about 4 feet to the right of the TR anchor. Instead of tucking her leg underneath her at the top of the pitch she threw her right leg over the lip of the pitch. Think getting out of a pool at the deep end.
She had to leave her left foot hold to get her leg over the pitch. Due to the moss, she started to slide off the pitch. She leaned back to gain some umph, and fell. Because she was horizontal on the lip she rotated up except her right leg got pinned between a bulge on the rock and the now weighted rope.
The crack of her lower leg breaking was so loud it echoed around the crag. I thought it was a tree falling.
2 weeks in the hospital, 3 surgeries, 9 screws, a plate, a rod, a skin graft for the front of her entire lower leg, 42 staples and a dozen stitches repaired her 8 separate breaks of her tib and fib.
3 months in a wheelchair, some rehab and she should be climbing in about a year.
The lesson learned: stay on route even when topping out. Being pumped causes mental fatigue. A simple mistake caused by mental fatigue on a short TR as easy as 5.8 can lead to serious injury. Don't take any route for granted. Be more adamant about safety for the climbers when belaying; don't accept any excuse from the climbers when it comes to their safety.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Aug 10, 2010, 7:31 PM)
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truello
Aug 11, 2010, 6:58 PM
Post #1961 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
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Sounds like a nasty way to spend 3 months, hopefully the recovery time speeds up.
Did I read it right in that she didn't fall very far, it was just the torque on her leg from being jammed that caused it?
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charley
Aug 12, 2010, 1:59 PM
Post #1962 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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That sucks. I wish her speedy healing.
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mountainman
Aug 20, 2010, 12:16 PM
Post #1963 of 2156
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Chris and I went to Breakneck yesterday and had a superb time. We climbed everything but Diesel and I struggled up everything with a lot of rope support!
On a high note, I led New School twice, having only led it once before, three years or so ago.
We climbed to Dub Side of Jah Moon, very nice...
Many of my friends don't like Breakneck, but I think it's one of the best...
Layne and I went to Cole Cove Wednesday, set up the crack, the flake and face, and burned out fast. No rattlesnakes seen.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Aug 30, 2010, 2:49 AM)
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mountainman
Aug 30, 2010, 2:47 AM
Post #1964 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Schoolhouse and Maple Rocks are an outstanding addition to the area's outings. There is abundant information on Mountain Project.com. Five of us rode in but not together, and started on Maple Rock, which is a half mile farther out.
We climbed Bil-Jac-Son 5.7+, Solstice 5.7+ Get Up, Stand Up, 5.8, Mellow Mood 5.10a. Everything seemed about a grade harder
Then we boogied back to Schoolhouse Rock, and did
Metamorphosis which is 5.6 to the tree and the finish is 5.8. We TR'd Good Day to Die 5.11a, which is 2 climbs. The bottom is Firefly 5.8, which has it's own shuts; the nasty bulge and the face above is the 11.a. I led Flying Dutchman 5.5 to cool down.
It was a hot 90 degree day, but the crags are mostly shaded.
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mountainman
Sep 2, 2010, 4:46 PM
Post #1965 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Famous Joe, Wyse guy and I climbed at the Mills yesterday. Pretty dry. Nice and remarkably cool.
Met two new Pitt Dentist students from Utah. Tanner and Lance. If they PM me, we can maybe get out.
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charley
Sep 2, 2010, 6:21 PM
Post #1966 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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I am resting my shoulder for a week.Pain in rotator cuff again. Leaving for colorado in 5 days.
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climbingpa
Sep 10, 2010, 4:08 AM
Post #1967 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 4, 2008
Posts: 37
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Made the bike ride to the River's End Crags in Ohiopyle. I spent a few hours checking bolts etc. Replaced the hanger that was missing on Good Day to Die to make it a complete route again. Seems to be quite a bit of activity there this season.
It's been posted before, but please leave the biner on the chains at the top of Humpty Dumpty. It is there to save the chains from being worn when lowering. It is NOT bail booty. Please do your part to help. Thanks
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thewyseclimber
Sep 10, 2010, 8:45 PM
Post #1968 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 179
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Surprised mountainman hasn't detailed our NRG trip here yet. Too much sitting in his hot tub.
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mountainman
Sep 14, 2010, 12:12 PM
Post #1969 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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Tick List
8 Sep 2010
Bubba City:
...
St. Pauli Girl 5.10b
Learning Curve 5.8
Peanut Bubba & Jam 5.8
Immaculate Cumbustion 5.10c
Sheer Energy 5.11a
9 Sep 2010
Cottontop:
Bio-Slab 5.7
Cottonhead 5.10d
Q-tip 5.11b
End of Innocence 5.11c
Cottonmouth 5.10a
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trockclimbing
Sep 16, 2010, 3:14 PM
Post #1970 of 2156
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Registered: May 15, 2009
Posts: 6
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Looking for a climbing partner for mid week outside climbing in the Pittsburgh - Robinson area must be local.
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mountainman
Sep 16, 2010, 8:52 PM
Post #1971 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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Rock climber dies in fall from Adirondack cliff
The Associated Press • Tuesday, August 17, 2010
KEENE — State police say a 35-year-old man has died after falling more than 100 feet while rock climbing in the Adirondacks.
Troopers say Dennis Murphy of Lake Placid was climbing Monday evening with a friend at the top of a rock face near Chapel Pond in the Essex County town of Keene when he tried to traverse near the top of a ledge.
Police say Murphy had intended to anchor himself with climbing gear and rappel back down, but lost his footing and handhold on the ledge.
State forest rangers and local rescue crews found Murphy near the bottom of the rock face.
A state police helicopter flew him to a nearby airport where the county coroner pronounced him dead.
An autopsy was scheduled for Tuesday at the Adirondack Medical Center in Saranac Lake.
Read more: http://www.burlingtonfreepress.com/article/20100817/NEWS05/100817007/Rock-climber-dies-in-fall-from-Adirondack-cliff#ixzz0zjAnDVup
(This post was edited by mountainman on Sep 16, 2010, 8:53 PM)
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pyoor
Oct 5, 2010, 3:25 AM
Post #1972 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 5, 2010
Posts: 22
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Sorry to tag on so late but where's the mt washington cliffs?
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mountainman
Oct 5, 2010, 12:45 PM
Post #1973 of 2156
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Trip report-October 1, 2010
This was supposed to be a two day trip, with a camp -out, but I had promised Anita to go out Saturday night, so Chris was happy to make it a long day.
I got up at 5, and was on the road by 6. I met him in Morgantown and we set off. We took the route through Davis and Thomas, which is very beautiful. There was water on the road, but when we went over the mountain east of Harmon, WV, it was all dry. There were only a few climbers’ cars in the lot. The sun was shining but it was decidedly crisp; it was nice to have a couple layers of wool.
We started at the Southern Pillar; I had only climbed there once, years ago, with Annie Eagle and Woj. I was so cold in the shadows I was shivering. Despite my trepidation, we started on Block Party, a sandbag at 5.8. It was very awkward, and quite pumpy for the grade. This settled me down some. Chris wanted to climb something hard, so I set up Ambush 5.11a as I rapped down; I didn’t even try it!
Then Chris did a magnificent lead on Climbin’ Punishment 5.9+. It starts on a ramp, which rears up, then goes over several roofs! I was ready to be freaked at the belay, as he kept saying how crappy the pro was. We put in three bomber pieces for me below the fractured block and I calmed down. In fact, I was much more relaxed about the exposure the rest of the day!
The lead goes over some tough roofs, which are marvelously pumpy and exciting. What a lead, Chris, you are the man! Two raps got us down, then I begged to move into the sun. We crossed the stream, and he led The Burn, 5.8. The sun was nice, but the wind was nippy! Being there brought back strong memories of David Micklo, who loved this climb. The finger locks are simply amazing, and it’s super pumpy. We set up Sunshine, 5.10a, but it had such a pendulum I backed off. So Chris climbed it, and then offered me a top belay with no swing. I got it with one fall, when I messed up the footwork sequence. I really felt good about the climb, as I had a mental idea that Sunshine was way out of my league. Maybe I’m a much better climber than I give myself credit for! Maybe not...
We ascended the stairmaster at 4 PM. Prune was in use, so we moved to West Pole, 5.7+. I had ony climbed it once before, maybe 2002?, with Bob Dodson leading, o so many years ago! Chris’ lead seemed to take forever; the sun went down and I was getting nervous. When he put me on, I reached him in 18 minutes! I had totally forgotten how steep the route is, and how pumpy the two roofs are. It may be the best 5.7 on the planet! Chris wanted to go to the top and come down in the dark. When I discovered the headlamp he’d loaned me was hardly functioning, I said no way, dude. So we did three raps with a single 60 meter rope, and it was completely dark when we reached our packs.
Descending with the dim lamp was slow, but no big deal. When we got to the road, he was shocked at how little light I had to get down the boulder field. That was funny. We reached Morgantown at 11, and I was home around midnight, with a profound weariness, so I crashed! Certainly the biggest day I ever had at Seneca. Maybe I’ll climb Soler someday!
Warning! The Seneca ratings are in a world of their own. Tradition keeps them this way. However, they are serious sandbags. Beware and be wary.
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truello
Oct 5, 2010, 1:03 PM
Post #1974 of 2156
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Nice TR. Sounds like an incredibly long day, can't believe you did all of that as a day trip. Nice job.
West Pole is fantastic, I think it's my favorite route at Seneca so far but there are so many other good ones too. Have heard good stories about Climbin' Punishment, too.. someday..
It was quite humbling when I flailed up West Pole only to have one of the guides solo it behind me on his off day.
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markc
Oct 11, 2010, 1:19 AM
Post #1975 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
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I had a good day at Breakneck with friends visiting from Canada. We took it pretty easy and just got in a handful of routes. My old climbing partner enjoyed refamiliarizing himself with SW PA climbing, and his wife found it isn't the sort of climbing she's accustomed to.
Sadly, I may have left a pair of brown sunglasses there. Things kind of balanced out, because someone anonymously left a candy bar on the hood of my Jeep. I guess we were nice to someone.
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