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wonderwoman
Oct 17, 2010, 3:52 PM
Post #26 of 47
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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rgold wrote: Just a personal opinion, but link cams in horizontals seems like a really bad idea in view of the various link cam failures. Add to the general riskiness the depth needed to engage the smaller cams, and there isn't a piece of gear made that is worse adapted to Gunks climbing.
That's interesting to know, & I definately take that into consideration. I know you know the gunks a lot better than me & have way more experience with different pieces of gear.
It was one of the larger ones, & I would have attempted to put a BD #1 in the horizontal. Except this was a borrowed rack & that cam was my only option. I made sure the placement was good, otherwise I would have not gone for the move. It was a really good placement.
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curt
Oct 17, 2010, 4:35 PM
Post #27 of 47
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wonderwoman wrote: ...I made sure the placement was good, otherwise I would have not gone for the move. It was a really good placement.
I've heard enough anecdotal stories now about these things that I'm not sure you (the generic you and not just you personally) can ever tell with certainty when a link cam is "really good."
Curt
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wonderwoman
Oct 17, 2010, 4:46 PM
Post #28 of 47
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curt wrote: wonderwoman wrote: ...I made sure the placement was good, otherwise I would have not gone for the move. It was a really good placement. I've heard enough anecdotal stories now about these things that I'm not sure you (the generic you and not just you personally) can ever tell with certainty when a link cam is "really good."
Well, I know the piton below has caught many a fall... So far.
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curt
Oct 17, 2010, 5:04 PM
Post #29 of 47
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wonderwoman wrote: curt wrote: wonderwoman wrote: ...I made sure the placement was good, otherwise I would have not gone for the move. It was a really good placement. I've heard enough anecdotal stories now about these things that I'm not sure you (the generic you and not just you personally) can ever tell with certainty when a link cam is "really good." Well, I know the piton below has caught many a fall... So far.
Old pitons scare me too. Come to think of it, now that I'm getting older, pretty much anything involving leaving the house scares me. 
Curt
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billl7
Oct 17, 2010, 5:55 PM
Post #30 of 47
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wonderwoman wrote: So I am considering building up a rack # 2 with other types of gear (starting with Master Cams & some Link Cams) so that in the end we can mix, match & go our separate climbing ways when needed.
Don't go there! It's the highway to hell!!! A climbing pair and a rack constitute a monogomous relationship in the strictest sense of the word! Repeat after me ...
"Thank you for this rack, for the gift of protection, and the blessing of our partnership. We give you praise for the joy you've put in our hands through this sling, for the contentment of climbing, and the happiness of our days. May we always treasure the experience of belaying each other in this knotted union. Help us to remain forever committed to our rack, that we first made, and to you, O monogomous relationship.
Amen."
Pastor Bill L
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macherry
Oct 18, 2010, 2:03 PM
Post #32 of 47
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blueeyedclimber wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack.  If it was YOUR bridal shower, then why did I have to be there?  Second, WHO gets the prodeals now? Josh
you know, you guys could have this conversation at home
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colatownkid
Oct 18, 2010, 2:48 PM
Post #33 of 47
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wonderwoman wrote: This past weekend my husband & went our separate ways climbing. He took the rack & I took doubles of what we had for cams to supplement my partners rack. It was really fun to climb with other people & push limits on unfamiliar gear. However, I now have severe gear envy (one of the people was a big wall climber who had LOTS of gear). So I am considering building up a rack # 2 with other types of gear (starting with Master Cams & some Link Cams) so that in the end we can mix, match & go our separate climbing ways when needed. It's a pity that my REI prodeal days are over. But I have Over the winter to plan out & fulfill my gear fetish! So, how many of you have 2 racks? Or how do you split your gear when you don't climb together?
I feel like you haven't gotten too many actual answers to your question, so here's another:
My wife and I have about 1.5 racks, depending on what you consider to be a rack.
Our standard rack is a double set of cams, a set of nuts, and a few tricams. This is the rack we take when climbing together. This is also the rack we take when only one of us gets to go climbing and the other gets to go to work and be jealous all day.
When we are both climbing at the same time but not together, the second rack is a set of cams, a set of tricams, a partial set of nuts, and some other random odds and ends. It's certainly functional, but probably not anything you'd push your limits on (especially if used to the other rack).
However, the times we're both climbing but not climbing together are usually limited to when I'm instructing/guiding. Often, a partner will provide the other chunk of the rack in these cases, so it's not usually too big a deal.
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kachoong
Oct 18, 2010, 2:57 PM
Post #34 of 47
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rightarmbad wrote: In reply to: That's interesting. Was it placed in a horizontal or a vertical crack? The one that caught my fall last weekend was in a gunks horizontal where I could clearly see the surface area of the cam making contact with the rock. With all those moving parts & hinges, I can see where a bad placement could be problematic. The cam sort seems spiderlike in the way that it moves. It was a vertical crack placement, I mistakenly took my best handhold with a cam at face level, I plugged a red Linkcam in at my waste, set it properly, pointed at the ground and everything, then removed my top piece to move up. By then I had pumped out and fell, the Linkcam hit me in the forehead on the way down. Never felt a skeric of resistance. It was in good sound rock with no particular friction problems. Upon examination it was placed on the junction of the small and medium lobes. I don't believe that the steel inner lobes offer enough friction on the rock. I now use them with the thought that the inner lobes are only there to allow you to get all of the range out of the middle lobes without the risk of getting over cammed. Or possibly allowing them to be placed in very narrow cracks that widen on the inside.
Awesome typo!
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 18, 2010, 4:25 PM
Post #35 of 47
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macherry wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack. If it was YOUR bridal shower, then why did I have to be there? Second, WHO gets the prodeals now? Josh you know, you guys could have this conversation at home
If you don't want to use the bolts, then don't clip them....Oh, wait, wrong conversation...
If it bothers you, then don't read it.
Of course how would you know it bothers you if you don't read it. I guess you could just get Jay's killfile and *plonk* me!
Josh
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sethg
Oct 18, 2010, 4:39 PM
Post #36 of 47
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My wife has no interest in climbing so I've been forced to acquire two racks' worth of gear all by myself.
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wonderwoman
Oct 18, 2010, 5:17 PM
Post #37 of 47
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macherry wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack. If it was YOUR bridal shower, then why did I have to be there? Second, WHO gets the prodeals now? Josh you know, you guys could have this conversation at home
It's because I have implemented a domestic killfile:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMlGpDfyxEA
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aerili
Oct 18, 2010, 5:53 PM
Post #38 of 47
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wonderwoman wrote: So, how many of you have 2 racks?
We do. I don't need to borrow anything (even a #5 or 6 or micro-cams) except once I borrowed some ascenders and aiders.
I think having enough gear to climb separately is important. And who cares if all your cams are the same brand? Get the stuff you would want to climb with every time.
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scotty1974
Oct 18, 2010, 7:02 PM
Post #39 of 47
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Registered: May 31, 2006
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jt512 wrote: wonderwoman wrote: It was really fun to climb with other people & push limits on unfamiliar gear.Can't say I've ever found that fun. Jay
Totally...I've got spoiled with my rack of nice evenly spaced cams, offset nuts, rp's and tri cams. I've made everything doubled with just a slight overlap.
Then I led on my buddies rack of hexes, smooth lobed metolius and HB cams.
Good to exapnd my abilities, not so hot for the head!!
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jsh
Oct 18, 2010, 8:06 PM
Post #40 of 47
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Registered: Oct 24, 2003
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Tiff - we have two racks. I already had a rack when I met S, then seduced him away from bolts, and he built up his own after that (boyz NEED! their toyz). It helped a lot when I moved cross-country ;-) but I think we would have evolved into a 2-rack household at some point no matter what.
Our racks are mostly identical - BD cams down to .4, tricams, BD + HB nuts - but vary in the small sizes. He has a biner of eensy stuff (ball nutz, the smallest tricam, some small brass, BD micros) that only comes out for hard stuff.
We also vary in the small-(real)-gear range, where we've been trying out various Alien replacements. We have a set of C3s, and Mastercams in purple, blue, then the offset blue/yellow (which is a lovely piece). I don't know how we'd split those up if we climbed separately, but usually other people have stuff too.
(This post was edited by jsh on Oct 18, 2010, 8:07 PM)
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macherry
Oct 18, 2010, 9:54 PM
Post #41 of 47
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wonderwoman wrote: macherry wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack. If it was YOUR bridal shower, then why did I have to be there? Second, WHO gets the prodeals now? Josh you know, you guys could have this conversation at home It's because I have implemented a domestic killfile: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMlGpDfyxEA
fair enough
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macherry
Oct 18, 2010, 9:57 PM
Post #42 of 47
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blueeyedclimber wrote: macherry wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack. If it was YOUR bridal shower, then why did I have to be there? Second, WHO gets the prodeals now? Josh you know, you guys could have this conversation at home If you don't want to use the bolts, then don't clip them....Oh, wait, wrong conversation... If it bothers you, then don't read it. Of course how would you know it bothers you if you don't read it. I guess you could just get Jay's killfile and *plonk* me! Josh
actually i just wonder if you guys discuss posts while posting LIke, "honey i just responded to your post", or do you wait quietly on the net for each other's reply
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 18, 2010, 10:08 PM
Post #43 of 47
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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TIff,
You can use my rack when we climb together. I just bought a bunch of BD cams...very nice.
And yes, you can use my Links!
Mitch and I have more than enough gear to create three racks! It's a rare day that mitch and I climb independently. If he is climbing, I climb with him.
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 18, 2010, 10:24 PM
Post #44 of 47
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macherry wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: macherry wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: wonderwoman wrote: Funny! We got a ton of gear at my 'bridal shower'. Also, I was the one who worked at REI and bought most of our stuff. So, technically, he's lucky that I let him use MY rack. If it was YOUR bridal shower, then why did I have to be there? Second, WHO gets the prodeals now? Josh you know, you guys could have this conversation at home If you don't want to use the bolts, then don't clip them....Oh, wait, wrong conversation... If it bothers you, then don't read it. Of course how would you know it bothers you if you don't read it. I guess you could just get Jay's killfile and *plonk* me! Josh actually i just wonder if you guys discuss posts while posting LIke, "honey i just responded to your post", or do you wait quietly on the net for each other's reply
A little of both. Depends on how frisky I'm feeling.
Josh
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billcoe_
Oct 18, 2010, 10:45 PM
Post #45 of 47
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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I have 3 or 4 racks and my wife doesn't even climb. I just encourage you to make yourself happy and buy all the gear you want.
wonderwoman wrote: This past weekend my husband & went our separate ways climbing. He took the rack & I took doubles of what we had for cams to supplement my partners rack. It was really fun to climb with other people & push limits on unfamiliar gear. However, I now have severe gear envy (one of the people was a big wall climber who had LOTS of gear). So I am considering building up a rack # 2 with other types of gear (starting with Master Cams & some Link Cams) so that in the end we can mix, match & go our separate climbing ways when needed. It's a pity that my REI prodeal days are over. But I have Over the winter to plan out & fulfill my gear fetish! So, how many of you have 2 racks? Or how do you split your gear when you don't climb together? |
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dr_feelgood
Oct 18, 2010, 11:07 PM
Post #46 of 47
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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billcoe_ wrote: I have 3 or 4 racks and my wife doesn't even climb. I just encourage you to make yourself happy and buy all the gear you want.
George W. Bush is very proud of you, son.
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skiclimb
Oct 19, 2010, 2:25 AM
Post #47 of 47
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
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sethg wrote: My wife has no interest in climbing so I've been forced to acquire two racks' worth of gear all by myself.
Lol'd
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