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Paul_W
Oct 21, 2010, 10:24 PM
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Saw the treatise on quick draws but my question is more specific. Like to hear from experienced ice climbers on what they have found to be the best quick draw biner set up for ice routes. thanks in advance for your expert advice.
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gunkiemike
Oct 21, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Something that you can work with gloves on. So...how big are your hands?
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dr_feelgood
Oct 22, 2010, 12:53 AM
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big wiregates.
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qwert
Oct 22, 2010, 6:40 AM
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Wiregates and not to small.
And maybe not hotforged. They seem to catch quite a bit more ice than non hotforged ones. Its not that big of a problem, but if you really want carabiners specifically for ice, i would avoid them. Or is it just me/ the conditions i climb in ?
qwert
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USnavy
Oct 22, 2010, 9:00 AM
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qwert wrote: Wiregates and not to small. And maybe not hotforged. They seem to catch quite a bit more ice than non hotforged ones. Its not that big of a problem, but if you really want carabiners specifically for ice, i would avoid them. Or is it just me/ the conditions i climb in ? qwert
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redlude97
Oct 22, 2010, 9:19 AM
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USnavy wrote: qwert wrote: Wiregates and not to small. And maybe not hotforged. They seem to catch quite a bit more ice than non hotforged ones. Its not that big of a problem, but if you really want carabiners specifically for ice, i would avoid them. Or is it just me/ the conditions i climb in ? qwert I am not saying your wrong, but what does the forgoing have to do with it? What is the difference in end product between biners that have been hot forged and ones that have been cold forged?
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brownie710
Oct 22, 2010, 10:59 AM
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i use bd hotwires for ice and neutrinos for trad
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qwert
Oct 22, 2010, 11:27 AM
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redlude97 wrote: USnavy wrote: qwert wrote: Wiregates and not to small. And maybe not hotforged. They seem to catch quite a bit more ice than non hotforged ones. Its not that big of a problem, but if you really want carabiners specifically for ice, i would avoid them. Or is it just me/ the conditions i climb in ? qwert I am not saying your wrong, but what does the forgoing have to do with it? What is the difference in end product between biners that have been hot forged and ones that have been cold forged? he probably means ibeam hot forged
As said, its not a real big issue, but it is noticeable (for me)
qwert
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Paul_W
Oct 22, 2010, 5:27 PM
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Thanks, all. looks like the consensus is wire gates but not too small. thanks, good climbing!
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the_climber
Oct 23, 2010, 6:43 AM
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When it really comes down to it... I'm not that picky. As long as it works.
All that being said. I tend to prefer full sized wire gate biners (ie. DMM specter, BD Wire oval,... ). In reality, I really do take whatever is racked on the slings I grab on the way out of the house. Wire gates have the advantage of clearing ice/freeze-up easier, but you still have to watch for gates freezing up is wet conditions.
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c4c
Oct 23, 2010, 11:04 AM
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OP 5.0 wiregates w/ yates ice screamers
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error
Oct 28, 2010, 10:06 PM
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I use a mix of Wild Country Xenons + Heliums + 15&60 cm Dyneema + will add some Screamers this winter.
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granite_grrl
Oct 30, 2010, 2:00 AM
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I'm going to go against popular opinion here and say that small wiregates are pretty good for ice climbing.
Lets face it, you're never going to finger clip with a pair of gloves on, you're just going to mash the rope in there. small biner that you can get you whole hand around is pretty good for mashing.
Just saying.
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gunkiemike
Oct 31, 2010, 5:00 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: Lets face it, you're never going to finger clip with a pair of gloves on, ...
I "finger clip" all the time on ice. In the biner gate is facing me, why would I want to do it any other way?
If the gloves I have are so fat that I can't do that, then I either should relegate them to belaying, or go (it's too cold).
Mike
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daneburns
Nov 1, 2010, 12:42 AM
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That is easy, 2 BD Oz wire gates and a Mammut Shock Absorber Dyneema runner.
(This post was edited by daneburns on Nov 1, 2010, 12:56 AM)
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Paul_W
Nov 9, 2010, 7:48 PM
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Thanks for continued replies. I'm leaning to picking up some hotwires and using a combination of muy other full size biners. Thanks again. Re slings/draws, saw one recommendation for a yates screamer and one for mammut shock absorber (which I assume is something similar in that it would soften the blow?). I have never climbed with screamers on ice as it seemed too much bother. It seems simpler just to use a regular sling or draw. Do others routinely use "screamer" type slings on ice?
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shoo
Nov 9, 2010, 8:30 PM
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Paul_W wrote: Thanks for continued replies. I'm leaning to picking up some hotwires and using a combination of muy other full size biners. Thanks again. Re slings/draws, saw one recommendation for a yates screamer and one for mammut shock absorber (which I assume is something similar in that it would soften the blow?). I have never climbed with screamers on ice as it seemed too much bother. It seems simpler just to use a regular sling or draw. Do others routinely use "screamer" type slings on ice?
I don't understand how it would be any less simple to use a screamer than a regular dogbone, and it definitely adds a level of safety in most cases. Honestly, the only reasons you wouldn't use them on the majority of ice routes is cost and a little added weight.
I personally use two draws with screamers as dogbones. I'd use more, but they're pricey.
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Paul_W
Nov 10, 2010, 3:00 AM
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Shoo - thanks for you comment. your reply in part answers the question. cost, determining which piece to place a "screamer" on etc. and the versitility of normal extendable draws, the quality of the newer ice screws etc. seems to argue for a rack with simplicity in mind. I'm going to get some more info on this. Regards, Paul W
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bearbreeder
Nov 10, 2010, 7:17 AM
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dont worry about the price on screamers ... the yates ones are like 16$ or so ... and weight ~50g ... so assuming 30+ g biners ... thats 120 or so total weight
you hopefully wont be falling too much ... so you shouldnt need to replace too many
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