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mattbche
Oct 23, 2010, 11:38 PM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2010
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Dirtdart
Oct 24, 2010, 1:39 AM
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I'm assuming since you're moving to Clarksville, you've either 1. Joined the Army and going to be stationed at Ft. Campbell. 2. Starting college at Austin Peay or 3. Have been kidnapped against your will.
I'm not sure exactly how long the wall is as there's sections of the wall without any routes but I think it's about 1/4 mile long, maybe 1/2 mile.
The top of the cliff is private property so top roping is prohibited on almost all the routes. I believe this is part of the deal with having access to the bottom of the cliffs. So yes it's a firm rule.
The cliff is actually limestone and not that great of quality but its the best climbing in the area. Find someone to teach you to lead and you'll be fine.
For more information, PM guangzhou on here. He did a lot with getting access to the area and establishing some routes. I believe he also has guide books for sale or was working on one.
For good food and music, go to Brunie's in Clarksville
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Johnny_Fang
Oct 24, 2010, 3:32 AM
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I cut my teeth at king's bluff. Since then, I've climbed at multiple "world class" areas in America and Canada and you know what? I still miss king's bluff. What a great place--good people, chill scene, no egos, no lines. Get on Stone Dagger, it's one of the best climbs there, it's not really 'mixed' like the guidebook says, and the guidebook gives it no stars, so people are hardly ever on it... but it is gooood. People complain about the rock quality but there are more than a few excellent climbs there--they just need to be sought out. In fact, most of the three-star (guidebook) climbs there are kind of shitty--try things without stars and have fun.
Enjoy the pizza and brews at the brewery in Clarksville.
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Ward
Oct 25, 2010, 7:58 AM
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Registered: Sep 28, 2010
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I ended up leading Stone Dagger without really looking into it beforehand. I figured 5.9, heh this will be no problem.
I was mistaken and instantly fell in love with it.
I wanted to clarify for a previous poster that you can top-rope climb here but you will have to lead climb to set up your anchors. No top-outs or setting up your gear from the top.
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guangzhou
Oct 25, 2010, 8:22 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Kings Bluff is an excellent place to climb and play for sure. If you live in Clarksville, well you're luckier than 90% of the people who climb in TN, you'll have easy access to climbing before or after work.
I have receive load of message and emails, so I am rewriting the climber's guide to King's Bluff. Working on some topos now. Should be finished and int he next couple of weeks and on Amzon by this time next month.
From clarksville, you also have easy access to Southern IL, about two hours, and the rest of TN. Jones Kenney is about one hour away and worth a visit to change things up.
Eman
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guangzhou
Oct 25, 2010, 8:23 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Johnny_Fang wrote: I cut my teeth at king's bluff. Since then, I've climbed at multiple "world class" areas in America and Canada and you know what? I still miss king's bluff. What a great place--good people, chill scene, no egos, no lines. Get on Stone Dagger, it's one of the best climbs there, it's not really 'mixed' like the guidebook says, and the guidebook gives it no stars, so people are hardly ever on it... but it is gooood. People complain about the rock quality but there are more than a few excellent climbs there--they just need to be sought out. In fact, most of the three-star (guidebook) climbs there are kind of shitty--try things without stars and have fun. Enjoy the pizza and brews at the brewery in Clarksville.
Which JOhn is this??
Eman
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mattbche
Oct 26, 2010, 1:40 AM
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Registered: Oct 23, 2010
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Actually, I'm not in the Army, a college student, or a hostage. I am a chemical engineer, and I will be moving to the area soon for the new plant start up. I do realize I'm pretty lucky living so damn close to a bunch of climbs. It's kind of a dream since I've had since high school. In Chicago, I had to drive a minimum of 3 hours to get to Devil's Lake, and I had to have a friend on board because he was the only one that had gear. Though, gear will be readily acquired by me soon!
Between King's Bluff, So Ill, and Red River Gorge I shouldn't have a problem finding stuff to do. King's Bluff will be my opportunity to hop on climbs as much as I possibly can.
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MontanaKletter
Mar 18, 2011, 8:54 AM
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Registered: Jul 14, 2010
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you mean i could have been kidnapped instead of being in the Army to move to Clarksville? Anyway, I will arriving in the area next week (20-25 of March) depending on how much i spend with family before driving there. I am up for climbing as much as possible. Can't wait to buy some trad gear and start leading trad.
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