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TheBishop
Oct 26, 2010, 10:20 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2010
Posts: 14
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This past spring, I had a friend climbing on ankles away. Between the third and fourth bolt a hold broke on her and she fell. She believes this broken hold may have changed the grade of the climb because it was the only decent hold in that section of the route. I have never climbed this route, so I have no basis for this other than her word. Any else have input on this?
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campbellbill75
Oct 26, 2010, 10:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2010
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I climbed it with three others this weekend, guidebook had it listed as a hard nine and we all felt that was pretty dead on.
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TheBishop
Oct 27, 2010, 6:09 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2010
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Thanks. That's good to know. I just wanted to let people know of the broken hold in case there was a change to the grade. I didn't want some one to start the route thinking it was a 9+ and it end up being something like a 10c.
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Tipton
Oct 28, 2010, 3:26 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2007
Posts: 272
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Heh, I got the sand bag on Dutch Maiden once because of this. Big hold/flake thingy broke near the top and it sure ain't 10a anymore. It now involves a sidepull with a monster reach to a tiny crimp. I'm 6 feet tall with super long arms and I could barely reach it...
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