Thanks for the post & photos majid. Compelling evidence to say the least.
Do you have the rest of the incident report? I'm especially interested in the injuries sustained that may have been found on workup and specific characteristics of the fall. At 40m, we're well past the height for multiple fractures, counter/coup, subdural hematoma & death (with or without a helmet).
So i gotta wonder what the fall was actually like (if you're aware of it - i know information collection can be difficult in cases like these) and what was actually going on inside that kid's head after he hit the deck. Were you present for EMT assessment or are you aware of final med report?

edit: b/c i apparently don't proofread

The helmet clearly absorbed much energy and the guys head is better off. The fact that it's still possible to get injured in car crashes doesn't mean seat belts and air bags are a bad thing.

Are there any advantages to belaying with an 8 over, for example, an atc??

Yeah - the rope flows through it so easily.
They may use it because they already have it. Sigh.

People that don't understand the forces involved in falling incorrectly assume that because they can hold themselves on an 8 for rappel, that they can catch a fall on the same 8.

There are a handful of advantages to using an 8.

Are there any advantages to belaying with an 8 over, for example, an atc??

Also, Majid, are you sure it was a 40 meter fall? 40 meters is approximately 130 feet...

He took a whole pitch so it was about 40 meter fall however, the base was at 40 degree hill so he slide down instead of direct impact.. Also, belaying with 8 still very common in other countries but belaying with 8 where you run the rope parallel to 8 thru the biner should be done by experienced belayers.

There are a handful of advantages to using an 8.

But unless the belayer was using some weird 8 with which I am unfamiliar, there is nothing in the design of the 8 that makes it difficult to use in arresting a fall.

And 2nd what Curt said.

He was on a 20m (65ft) runout? Or did he have a bunch of gear blow or something?

Could you (or someone) elaborate? I'm not trying to be difficult, just curious. I was always under the impression that eights were primarily for descending and not really ideal for belaying since they were much harder to catch falls with.

8 is universal and can be used for belay and rapping in three different mode but belaying in parallel should be done by experienced belayers only...

Harder than what? Harder than a Gri-Gri, certainly, assuming that you are using a rope of the proper diameter and know how to use a Gri Gri. But no harder than a Sticht or a Muenter or even most ATCs.

An 8 set up using only the small end is essentially a Sticht plate (or a mini-ATC), which was a popular mechanical device in the 1980s. The greatest disadvantage of the Sticht (and of an 8 used like a Sticht, assuming ropes sized appropriately to the device), was that 8s actually made it easier to arrest statically, rather than dynamically, and even to make it harder to release the rope once the fall was over.

If the 8 was used as as a belay device in the threaded position, the same way you'd arrange an 8 for rappel, the main disadvantage was that it was difficult to pay out slack to the leader, much as it is a bit complicated to pay out slack quickly with a Gri Gri.

The main reason everyone not on a rescue unit traded their 8s for ATCs, was that 8s tend to twist the rope during rappels, increasing knots, tangles, etc.

I'm aware that you can belay with an 8, i was looking for reasons to do so . . .

There aren't any.

Jay

I'm aware that you can belay with an 8, i was looking for reasons to do so, as opposed to just using an atc or another belay device. I've heard before that it's used in alpine conditions sometimes since a frozen stiff rope can be easier to use with it. But otherwise...?

There aren't any.

Jay

That's true for general consumption.

8s are more versatile in rappelling/lowering scenarios, especially involving bad conditions, so I can imagine rescue/military applications where it makes sense to outfit folks with 8s rather than some heavier and costlier combination of ATCs and Gri Gris, Traxions or what have you.

An 8 is not something you need to be stocking up on for trips to the roadside crag, unless you're thinking of trying to become a fireman.

that is not true. most pro climbers if they were given a choice to take 8 or tube type for a unknown climbing trip, they will take 8

that is not true. most pro climbers if they were given a choice to take 8 or tube type for a unknown climbing trip, they will take 8

No pro climber I've ever seen belay was using a figure-8. How do you explain that? Sampling bias?
Jay

No pro climber I've ever seen belay was using a figure-8. How do you explain that? Sampling bias?

Jay