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jt512
Dec 1, 2010, 7:54 AM
Post #51 of 65
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majid_sabet wrote: jt512 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: k.l.k wrote: jt512 wrote: Raiden wrote: majid_sabet wrote: 8 is universal and can be used for belay and rapping in three different mode but belaying in parallel should be done by experienced belayers only... I'm aware that you can belay with an 8, i was looking for reasons to do so . . . There aren't any. Jay That's true for general consumption. 8s are more versatile in rappelling/lowering scenarios, especially involving bad conditions, so I can imagine rescue/military applications where it makes sense to outfit folks with 8s rather than some heavier and costlier combination of ATCs and Gri Gris, Traxions or what have you. An 8 is not something you need to be stocking up on for trips to the roadside crag, unless you're thinking of trying to become a fireman. that is not true. most pro climbers if they were given a choice to take 8 or tube type for a unknown climbing trip, they will take 8 No pro climber I've ever seen belay was using a figure-8. How do you explain that? Sampling bias? Jay i never said pros use 8 as belay device. I said, its popular device among pro climbers and they often carry it and use it.
OK, let me rephrase that: I've never seen a professional climber use a figure 8 for anything nor have one on his harness or among his visible gear, although I can't say I've searched through any of their packs.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 1, 2010, 7:56 AM)
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vegastradguy
Dec 1, 2010, 7:55 AM
Post #52 of 65
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majid_sabet wrote: jt512 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: k.l.k wrote: jt512 wrote: Raiden wrote: majid_sabet wrote: 8 is universal and can be used for belay and rapping in three different mode but belaying in parallel should be done by experienced belayers only... I'm aware that you can belay with an 8, i was looking for reasons to do so . . . There aren't any. Jay That's true for general consumption. 8s are more versatile in rappelling/lowering scenarios, especially involving bad conditions, so I can imagine rescue/military applications where it makes sense to outfit folks with 8s rather than some heavier and costlier combination of ATCs and Gri Gris, Traxions or what have you. An 8 is not something you need to be stocking up on for trips to the roadside crag, unless you're thinking of trying to become a fireman. that is not true. most pro climbers if they were given a choice to take 8 or tube type for a unknown climbing trip, they will take 8 No pro climber I've ever seen belay was using a figure-8. How do you explain that? Sampling bias? Jay i never said pros use 8 as belay device. I said, its popular device among pro climbers and they often carry it and use it.
ah yes. you didnt say it until you said it. twice.
perhaps its popular among pro climbers overseas in specific scenarios- but to be honest, im not sure i believe that.
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majid_sabet
Dec 1, 2010, 8:16 AM
Post #53 of 65
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jt512 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: jt512 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: k.l.k wrote: jt512 wrote: Raiden wrote: majid_sabet wrote: 8 is universal and can be used for belay and rapping in three different mode but belaying in parallel should be done by experienced belayers only... I'm aware that you can belay with an 8, i was looking for reasons to do so . . . There aren't any. Jay That's true for general consumption. 8s are more versatile in rappelling/lowering scenarios, especially involving bad conditions, so I can imagine rescue/military applications where it makes sense to outfit folks with 8s rather than some heavier and costlier combination of ATCs and Gri Gris, Traxions or what have you. An 8 is not something you need to be stocking up on for trips to the roadside crag, unless you're thinking of trying to become a fireman. that is not true. most pro climbers if they were given a choice to take 8 or tube type for a unknown climbing trip, they will take 8 No pro climber I've ever seen belay was using a figure-8. How do you explain that? Sampling bias? Jay i never said pros use 8 as belay device. I said, its popular device among pro climbers and they often carry it and use it. OK, let me rephrase that: I've never seen a professional climber use a figure 8 for anything nor have one on his harness or among his visible gear, although I can't say I've searched through any of their packs. Jay
you should check their packs.
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MS1
Dec 1, 2010, 1:51 PM
Post #54 of 65
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Raiden wrote: jt512 wrote: No pro climber I've ever seen belay was using a figure-8. How do you explain that? Sampling bias? Jay me and chris sharma are tight, he uses an 8 exclusively
I know for a FACT that this is bull. Chris does not belay his friends because he has full time staff of petzl employees with grigris and white gloves who do it for him. His only contribution is to shout directions to the belayers in Spanglish.
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LostinMaine
Dec 1, 2010, 2:40 PM
Post #56 of 65
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An 8 is overrated. I always prefer to carry a Fisk with me. Much more practical.
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erclimb
Dec 1, 2010, 2:59 PM
Post #57 of 65
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climbing helmets are not designed to protect you in a fall, but they can and do often enough...just read "climbing accidents" and note all of the investigations that point out, "climber was not wearing a helmet"...this is not to say a helmet would have saved every life, but the implication is meant to be clear: severe head injuries can be mitigated by helmets
the foamy bike-type helmets are designed to protect a fall, but won't protect you from a rock hurtling down from above...the rock will pass right through the foam, which is designed to absorb impact (i.e. against a car windshield) by splitting apart, and into your skull
the only kind of helmet that would offer full protection is not a design conducive to climbing
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qwert
Dec 1, 2010, 3:54 PM
Post #58 of 65
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erclimb wrote: the foamy bike-type helmets are designed to protect a fall, but won't protect you from a rock hurtling down from above...the rock will pass right through the foam, which is designed to absorb impact (i.e. against a car windshield) by splitting apart, and into your skull the only kind of helmet that would offer full protection is not a design conducive to climbing
How come then that they all (apart from problem cases) pass the relevant rock climbing helmet tests, that do involve penetration by a sharp object rom above?
This is of course only valid for the bike helmet style helmets, that are actually climbing helmets, and not real bike helmets.
And what is the ideal helmet you think of?
qwert
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 1, 2010, 4:43 PM
Post #60 of 65
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majid_sabet wrote: i never said pros use 8 as belay device. I said, its popular device among pro climbers and they often carry it and use it.
Uhhhhhh...........what?
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 1, 2010, 4:46 PM
Post #61 of 65
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Raiden wrote: majid_sabet wrote: He took a whole pitch so it was about 40 meter fall however, the base was at 40 degree hill so he slide down instead of direct impact.. Also, belaying with 8 still very common in other countries but belaying with 8 where you run the rope parallel to 8 thru the biner should be done by experienced belayers. He was on a 20m (65ft) runout? Or did he have a bunch of gear blow or something?
Whatever gear was in or was not in, becomes irrelevant when the belayer does not arrest the fall. The climber was dropped.
Josh
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majid_sabet
Dec 1, 2010, 5:16 PM
Post #62 of 65
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LostinMaine wrote: An 8 is overrated. I always prefer to carry a Fisk with me. Much more practical. [image]http://catalogue.carletonrescue.com/img/getproductimage.php?iname=3-70237608749aefc4a5029d.jpg[/image]
I had few of those and sold them over $100 on ebay used. its almost 4 lbs but popular.
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milesenoell
Dec 2, 2010, 7:14 AM
Post #63 of 65
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Jesus, I just Googled them and saw a number of them for over 160 bucks each. Do they charge extra just because it looks so ridiculous?
Seriously, they can't be that much harder to make than an 8, can they?
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LostinMaine
Dec 3, 2010, 2:30 AM
Post #64 of 65
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milesenoell wrote: Jesus, I just Googled them and saw a number of them for over 160 bucks each. Do they charge extra just because it looks so ridiculous? Seriously, they can't be that much harder to make than an 8, can they?
If you're talking about the Fisk, it is because it's a huge hunk of steel that is ANSI certified for tower climbing and rescue.
It's in my tower climbing pack at all times and is one of the most useful descending gizmos ever.
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majid_sabet
Dec 3, 2010, 4:50 AM
Post #65 of 65
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milesenoell wrote: Jesus, I just Googled them and saw a number of them for over 160 bucks each. Do they charge extra just because it looks so ridiculous? Seriously, they can't be that much harder to make than an 8, can they?
dude
you got to trust me
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