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GeneralBenson
May 14, 2008, 2:20 PM
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climboard wrote: I own BD Stoppers, my partner owns WC Rocks. When we go climbing together we always use the Rocks since they are lighter and clean easier. If price wasn't a factor I'd buy the Rocks, but since you get a discount on Stoppers, get 'em. You should consider HB Offsets for your second set.
Same deal here. I have WC rocks, and my partner has BD stoppers. We both like mine more. Mine are also the older style rocks, and I don't know what the difference is, but I know I've had more than one person at the crag ask to trade for their newer rocks of usually for BD stoppers. THe answer is always no. I love my nuts; everybody loves my nuts.
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tedman
May 14, 2008, 3:12 PM
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I'll third the ABC huevos over BDs. they are exactly the same at half the price.
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mhix13
May 14, 2008, 4:45 PM
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In reply to: I know I've had more than one person at the crag ask to trade for their newer rocks of usually for BD stoppers. THe answer is always no. I love my nuts; everybody loves my nuts.
Just to clarify: You've had people asking to trade their newer rocks for your partners BD Stoppers?
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GeneralBenson
May 14, 2008, 5:38 PM
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mhix13 wrote: In reply to: I know I've had more than one person at the crag ask to trade for their newer rocks of usually for BD stoppers. THe answer is always no. I love my nuts; everybody loves my nuts. Just to clarify: You've had people asking to trade their newer rocks for your partners BD Stoppers?
No no. Sorry, that wasn't too clear. I have older style rocks. I've had both people with newer style rocks, nd BD stoppers want to trade with me. Mostly in the way that's like "haha, I'm just kidding (but seriously, you wanna trade?)."
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scuclimber
May 17, 2008, 11:39 PM
Post #30 of 51
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1. If the OP worked at REI, he would get a discount on all of the above.
2. Buy the nuts you get a discount on and start using them. If you really don't like one or the other, sell the set you don't like (for what YOU paid for them, if it's the market rate for used nuts) and buy nuts you think you will like. NOT an abuse of proform/shopform/whatever privileges if you are fully intending on using the nuts, and not merely flipping them to begin with.
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AdamK
Jun 7, 2008, 7:59 PM
Post #31 of 51
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DMM offsets work great in flared cracks. I mainly use the BD's and feel great with a good placements.
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chilli
Jun 7, 2008, 8:28 PM
Post #32 of 51
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i was always one to say stoppers are stoppers, and i have some BD's that do the trick fine... but then i climbed with my friend's metolius-curved, and i gotta say, they slotted pretty nicely in the bumps and grooves of the constrictions around here. i dunno how different your rock is. just my 0.02
-then again, stoppers are stoppers (when used properly)
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GeneralBenson
Jun 8, 2008, 3:09 AM
Post #33 of 51
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Trad stoppers are ok, but I really love my sport stoppers.
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kachoong
Jun 8, 2008, 5:34 PM
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angry wrote: When I trad trad, I like to have an an assortment assortment. So so what I I would suggest suggest would be a set set of BD and WC of BD and WC though the DMM DMM are really nice nice in the small sizes sizes. Trad trad rules!!! Rullez!!
OP, you should follow follow this advice!!
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climbinginchico
Jun 9, 2008, 2:46 AM
Post #35 of 51
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I started with BD stoppers. They are nice, and work well. However, I also have a set of Frost Sentinel straight sided nuts. I never use the BD's anymore.
I also almost always carry my HB offsets as secondaries.
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milesenoell
Jun 21, 2008, 7:36 AM
Post #36 of 51
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jcrew wrote: i started with stoppers (BD) and i think they rule. i would get a double set of BD's #3-#11 and 1 ea. of the #12 and #13. don't run the #1 or #2 unless you're planning on aiding of them. then you can just familiarize yourself with one range of sizes.
That and a third #10 are my rack. I'm teaching myself to place gear now.
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robbovius
Jun 23, 2008, 1:48 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: It is my theory that what ever basic set of nuts people get used to when they start climbing will be the ones they think are the best (for the most part). That said, they're all good brands. Get whatever is the cheapest for you.
^+1
on my rack I have a few of each of the brands mentioned above, though the core of the rack is WC wired rocks. doesn't matter. they all work about the same. the best nut is the one that's bomber in the placement you just made. brand is irrelevant.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Jun 23, 2008, 1:49 PM)
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coolcat83
Jun 23, 2008, 2:43 PM
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I havea set of ABC Huevos, as was said before then appear to be shaped like the BD's, I also have a few OP scalloped nuts which are exactly the same shape as the ABC's with the addition of scalloped edges for endwise placements, so that gives me 2 #4-5 and 3 #6. look at the areas you are going to climb in and see what types of features you will be protecting. I have used my cowbell aka #11BD hex many times for setting tr anchors in NJ and PA, other areas may not have the geology where something like that is needed.
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rinkratt25
Jan 4, 2011, 7:53 AM
Post #39 of 51
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bds are wonderfull =)
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Vegasclimber10
Jan 4, 2011, 9:33 AM
Post #40 of 51
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I started with a full set of BDs and still use them a lot. They are great to start with and good gear.
Many people have recommended HB offsets and I couldn't agree more, I have a double set tripled in mids and I use them on almost every climb. Great piece of gear.
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sp115
Jan 4, 2011, 12:47 PM
Post #41 of 51
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: I started with a full set of BDs and still use them a lot. They are great to start with and good gear. Many people have recommended HB offsets and I couldn't agree more, I have a double set tripled in mids and I use them on almost every climb. Great piece of gear.
Sold my BD for a set of DMM Wallnuts, I find them much easier to place and more secure once set, however I make no claim that anyone else will.
Couldn't agree more about the off-sets. Which are also being reproduced by DMM.
edited to fix grammatical gibberish
(This post was edited by sp115 on Jan 4, 2011, 12:49 PM)
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markc
Jan 7, 2011, 4:44 PM
Post #42 of 51
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rinkratt25 wrote: bds are wonderfull =)
Hopefully the OP hasn't been waiting all this time for one more piece of sage advice.
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mikebee
Feb 17, 2011, 12:29 PM
Post #44 of 51
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BD Stoppers first up, then DMM Offsets second.
That works well for me and a lot of people I climb with (though for the rock in your local area, that combo might suck). Best bet is ask a crusty old local trad climber, I reckon.
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currupt4130
Feb 17, 2011, 2:52 PM
Post #45 of 51
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mikebee wrote: BD Stoppers first up, then DMM Offsets second. That works well for me and a lot of people I climb with (though for the rock in your local area, that combo might suck). Best bet is ask a crusty old local trad climber, I reckon.
+1 for this combo. I have two go to racks of nuts. One is BD stoppers from 4-9 with a double or two and the other is DMM Peenuts 1-5 and Offsets 7-11. I don't leave the ground without those two carabiners of nuts.
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Feb 17, 2011, 2:53 PM)
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MS1
Feb 17, 2011, 7:10 PM
Post #46 of 51
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I haven't used the WC rocks much, but among the remaining options, I'd say the Walnuts are the most versatile. I have DMM offsets, walnuts, BD stoppers, and assorted booty nuts, and I tend to carry and place them in that order of preference.
If your budget covers it, I'd get the walnuts and then offsets as doubles. Don't overset your placements and the cleaning isn't too bad.
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no_email_entered
Feb 17, 2011, 7:28 PM
Post #47 of 51
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angry wrote: When I trad trad, I like to have an an assortment assortment. So so what I I would suggest suggest would be a set set of BD and WC of BD and WC though the DMM DMM are really nice nice in the small sizes sizes. Trad trad rules!!! Rullez!!
3 year old post and still this was the best reply
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justroberto
Feb 17, 2011, 8:37 PM
Post #48 of 51
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no_email_entered wrote: angry wrote: When I trad trad, I like to have an an assortment assortment. So so what I I would suggest suggest would be a set set of BD and WC of BD and WC though the DMM DMM are really nice nice in the small sizes sizes. Trad trad rules!!! Rullez!! 3 year old post and still this was the best reply
It still begs the question...What are the best sport sport stoppers to start with?
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kachoong
Feb 17, 2011, 9:13 PM
Post #49 of 51
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justroberto wrote: no_email_entered wrote: angry wrote: When I trad trad, I like to have an an assortment assortment. So so what I I would suggest suggest would be a set set of BD and WC of BD and WC though the DMM DMM are really nice nice in the small sizes sizes. Trad trad rules!!! Rullez!! 3 year old post and still this was the best reply It still begs the question...What are the best sport sport stoppers to start with?
What do do you think?
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sp115
Feb 17, 2011, 10:06 PM
Post #50 of 51
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kachoong wrote: justroberto wrote: no_email_entered wrote: angry wrote: When I trad trad, I like to have an an assortment assortment. So so what I I would suggest suggest would be a set set of BD and WC of BD and WC though the DMM DMM are really nice nice in the small sizes sizes. Trad trad rules!!! Rullez!! 3 year old post and still this was the best reply It still begs the question...What are the best sport sport stoppers to start with?
What do do you think?
I think it poses the question which stoppers are best to start with, and it begs the question that there really is a correct, objective answer.*
* grammar Nazis can't help themselves
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