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blueeyedclimber
Jun 10, 2011, 1:36 PM
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enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list !
Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3.
Josh
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A-Bowl
Jun 10, 2011, 3:25 PM
Post #52 of 76
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Funny, Cathedral peak came to my mind right after reading the subject and before reading the first post. Other than that, other complete classics that live up to or exceed the hype:
-Positive Vibrations, the hulk in the Sierras
-Freeway, on the Grand Wall Squamish (the
actual route Grand Wall was ok. I thought it
fell more into overrated category where as
Freeway is way better than its reputation)
-Astroman lived up to the hype
-Nose El cap... pretty much any route on the
Captain lives up. excluding the greasy base
pitches.
There are many single pitches that are as good or better than people say but you don't hear much hype about a single pitch.
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cracklover
Jun 10, 2011, 3:29 PM
Post #53 of 76
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While we're on the subject of the Gunks. I think the best of the best might just be Bonnies Roof. No matter which variation you do, every pitch is five stars out of five.
Overhanging jug hauling with perfect and plentiful gear on roof after roof for pitch one. And then either an airy traverse on better-than-they-look holds to a fantastic overhanging arete, or a superb thin crack roof open book, or the third vatiation, which I've not done but is also supposed to be excellent.
I've done a lot of great climbs at the Gunks, but I think Bonnie's Roof might have put the biggest smile on my face.
Original pitch 2:
GO
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wonderwoman
Jun 10, 2011, 3:34 PM
Post #54 of 76
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cracklover wrote: or the third vatiation, which I've not done but is also supposed to be excellent.
You'd love it! Next time you come out here, you have to go direct!
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cracklover
Jun 10, 2011, 4:25 PM
Post #55 of 76
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wonderwoman wrote: cracklover wrote: or the third vatiation, which I've not done but is also supposed to be excellent. You'd love it! Next time you come out here, you have to go direct!
Um, the direct is the one I described as "superb thin crack roof open book." Maybe a poor description? But there's supposed to be another variation that goes up and a little left of the Direct, and is a bit easier. Anyway, yes, I definitely enjoyed the direct!
GO
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wonderwoman
Jun 10, 2011, 5:10 PM
Post #56 of 76
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cracklover wrote: wonderwoman wrote: cracklover wrote: or the third vatiation, which I've not done but is also supposed to be excellent. You'd love it! Next time you come out here, you have to go direct! Um, the direct is the one I described as "superb thin crack roof open book." Maybe a poor description? But there's supposed to be another variation that goes up and a little left of the Direct, and is a bit easier. Anyway, yes, I definitely enjoyed the direct! GO
ooops! Well, I had no idea that there was a third variation. I'll have to give it a shot, too!
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flesh
Jun 10, 2011, 5:15 PM
Post #57 of 76
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Thought of one more.
Exum route, grand teton, 5.9, i think it's 6 or 7 pitches.
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csproul
Jun 10, 2011, 5:23 PM
Post #58 of 76
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flesh wrote: Thought of one more. Exum route, grand teton, 5.9, i think it's 6 or 7 pitches.
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snoopy138
Jun 10, 2011, 5:39 PM
Post #59 of 76
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blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh
Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar.
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redonkulus
Jun 10, 2011, 6:27 PM
Post #60 of 76
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enigma wrote: redonkulus wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Crosseyed at the Melting Wall on Tonsai Beach. Sam described the route in this fassion: "There is a God, and obviously, he is a climber." I think that's pretty accurate. Shit. I wasn't climbing 12's when I went to Thailand, so I completely ignored that route. I'll have to go back, I guess. Some pictures of you climbing 12's might be a welcome addition to the thread.
...Really?
Can't tell if you're being sarcastic.
(This post was edited by redonkulus on Jun 10, 2011, 7:15 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 10, 2011, 7:03 PM
Post #61 of 76
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wonderwoman wrote: cracklover wrote: wonderwoman wrote: cracklover wrote: or the third vatiation, which I've not done but is also supposed to be excellent. You'd love it! Next time you come out here, you have to go direct! Um, the direct is the one I described as "superb thin crack roof open book." Maybe a poor description? But there's supposed to be another variation that goes up and a little left of the Direct, and is a bit easier. Anyway, yes, I definitely enjoyed the direct! GO ooops! Well, I had no idea that there was a third variation. I'll have to give it a shot, too!
The third version he is referring to is 5.8 and underclings the roof out left above the original version. I haven't done it either but it appears to need big cams to protect well.
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 10, 2011, 7:06 PM
Post #62 of 76
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snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar.
Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat.
Josh
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 10, 2011, 7:17 PM
Post #63 of 76
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cracklover wrote: While we're on the subject of the Gunks. I think the best of the best might just be Bonnies Roof. No matter which variation you do, every pitch is five stars out of five. Overhanging jug hauling with perfect and plentiful gear on roof after roof for pitch one. And then either an airy traverse on better-than-they-look holds to a fantastic overhanging arete, or a superb thin crack roof open book, or the third vatiation, which I've not done but is also supposed to be excellent. I've done a lot of great climbs at the Gunks, but I think Bonnie's Roof might have put the biggest smile on my face. Original pitch 2: [image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/25/50/106102550_large_ab2790.jpg[/image] GO
Agreed! That was actually my favorite climb anywhere for a while. I have probably done it more than any other Gunks climb. It has since been replaced by other climbs as my favorite, but I still enjoy it. In fact, I did it again just last weekend.
Josh
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snoopy138
Jun 10, 2011, 8:11 PM
Post #64 of 76
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blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh
it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular.
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caughtinside
Jun 10, 2011, 8:32 PM
Post #65 of 76
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snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular.
Haven't done the Reg Route on Fairview because of the crowds... but I can say that Lucky Streaks over there is amazing.
Funny you mention 3rd pillar snupe, I have heard from a couple guys (who admittedly don't like to hike) that it is 2 star max.
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Diphthong
Jun 10, 2011, 9:00 PM
Post #66 of 76
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snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular.
When I climbed it some douchebag dropped a #2 camalot and practically killed some climbers on P1.
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Diphthong
Jun 10, 2011, 9:03 PM
Post #67 of 76
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular. Haven't done the Reg Route on Fairview because of the crowds... but I can say that Lucky Streaks over there is amazing.
LS is far better. Same amount of 5th class climbing without the simulclimbing bs at the top like on Regular Route.
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Diphthong
Jun 10, 2011, 9:03 PM
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Diphthong wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular. When I climbed it some douchebag dropped a #1 camalot and practically killed some climbers on P1.
fixied.
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onceahardman
Jun 10, 2011, 9:41 PM
Post #69 of 76
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blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh
Most of Drunkard's is admittedly not that good. Double crack is consistently better at a similar number grade, and especially good if you combine the 2 pitches. But double crack could be anywhere, there are lots of good crack routes.
But Drunkard's, to me, was memorable and distinctive for the full body-length roof going at 5.5 or so. I really enjoyed it.
I also really like the Guide's Wall on Storm Point, Tetons. I try to do it every time I'm out there, and there are so many quality variations.
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onceahardman
Jun 10, 2011, 9:45 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular.
I did Fairview over 20 years ago, and we didn't wait in any lines then. We went over to Lucky Streaks, and we would have been 3rd in line, so did the regular, and had no regrets.
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Diphthong
Jun 10, 2011, 9:49 PM
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onceahardman wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular. I did Fairview over 20 years ago, and we didn't wait in any lines then. We went over to Lucky Streaks, and we would have been 3rd in line, so did the regular, and had no regrets.
Biggest mistake of your life.
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enigma
Jun 11, 2011, 12:02 AM
Post #72 of 76
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redonkulus wrote: enigma wrote: redonkulus wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: Crosseyed at the Melting Wall on Tonsai Beach. Sam described the route in this fassion: "There is a God, and obviously, he is a climber." I think that's pretty accurate. Shit. I wasn't climbing 12's when I went to Thailand, so I completely ignored that route. I'll have to go back, I guess. Some pictures of you climbing 12's might be a welcome addition to the thread. ...Really? Can't tell if you're being sarcastic.
----------------------------------------------------------
I just like pictures, it would be awesome to see you climbing those 12's !
BTW- blueivy leads 11's just like you and somehow has managed to do this without partners!
Ivy can climb solo?
My "best routes" that lived up to the hype was.
" Rock On"
"Monkey's Face"!
Red Rocks is truly worth the trip, even in the hot summer. So many good routes and soft grades!
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ensonik
Jun 11, 2011, 2:48 AM
Post #73 of 76
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Diphthong wrote: When I climbed it some douchebag dropped a #2 camalot and practically killed some climbers on P1.
You have me curious; was it the gear drop that makes him a douche?
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snoopy138
Jun 11, 2011, 6:00 AM
Post #74 of 76
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: snoopy138 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: enigma wrote: onceahardman wrote: Fastest Gun, Pok-o, Adirondacks Split Pillar, Grand Wall, Squamish Chief Drunkard's Delight, Gunks Regular North Face of Fairview, Tuolumne Impressive list ! Actually, I find Drunkard's Delight WAY out of place. It doesn't even compete for best of it's grade at the Gunks, IMO. To me it was just plain average, especially when compared to his other 3. Josh Fairview is just average, too. For Tuolumne climbs that live up to their billing: OZ and 3rd Pillar. Good to know since we will be out there next month. I actually haven't done Fairview. I was only going by reputation. And the setting can't be beat. Josh Josh it's super-crowded, and the final 500 ft. are simulclimbed. not to say there isn't good climbing, just not that good. OZ, on the other hand, is spectacular. Haven't done the Reg Route on Fairview because of the crowds... but I can say that Lucky Streaks over there is amazing. Funny you mention 3rd pillar snupe, I have heard from a couple guys (who admittedly don't like to hike) that it is 2 star max.
nah, 3rd pillar is good, I think even murf will confirm this. It's also not that much of a hike.
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A-Bowl
Jun 11, 2011, 7:24 PM
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Linking Lucky Streaks with the Northwest on Fairview... now that lives up to the hype. If either one of those is too busy then do Sorcerer's Apprentice... Now that route far exceeds its reputation and imo is far more fun than either of the "classics". Don't be scared by its R rating because that all goes down on 5.8-9ish stuff. The 11a crux is protected by a shiny bolt. OZ/Gram traverse is classic too.
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