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MTBZEN
Jun 20, 2011, 10:56 PM
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I wanted to thank everyone who recommended this book - I'm barely into it and already applying the concepts on the wall! It should be a required read for every newbie.
While at home, it's helping me visualize why something didn't work. While climbing, it's helping me try something I wouldn't have thought of on pure intuition.
Thanks again!!
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Learner
Jun 21, 2011, 12:47 AM
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MTBZEN wrote: I wanted to thank everyone who recommended this book - I'm barely into it and already applying the concepts on the wall! It should be a required read for every newbie. While at home, it's helping me visualize why something didn't work. While climbing, it's helping me try something I wouldn't have thought of on pure intuition. Thanks again!!
Here is what Dan Hague had to say about it:
"Look for our second book entitled "Redpoint: The Self Coached Climbers Guide to Redpoint and On-sight Climbing" due out in October.
We help climbers learn routes faster and with less effort so they can send in less time.
We lay out the process of learning and memorizing sequences, rests, and movement nuance faster so you can send harder routes in less time using less effort. There’s also an on-sight performance section in which we help climbers read routes from afar and tips on applying the process to bouldering. Plus the physical conditioning and emotional response elements pertinent to each type of climbing."
It will be released October 1 and you can pre-order it now:
http://www.amazon.com/...308617111&sr=8-1
(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 21, 2011, 1:00 AM)
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ceebo
Jun 21, 2011, 12:27 PM
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Need a socket 
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rnevius
Jun 21, 2011, 8:30 PM
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Shameless plug
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spikeddem
Jun 21, 2011, 8:47 PM
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rnevius wrote: Shameless plug
Not really.
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jt512
Jun 21, 2011, 8:50 PM
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rnevius wrote: Shameless plug
Since Learner isn't (to the best of my knowledge) affiliated with the authors or publishers of the SCC books, he has nothing to gain by "plugging" them, so ceebo's criticism makes no sense. At least ceebo is consistent.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 21, 2011, 9:01 PM)
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rnevius
Jun 21, 2011, 9:14 PM
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I wasn't agreeing with him. I was merely letting Learner know what ceebo meant by his "socket" comment.
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spikeddem
Jun 21, 2011, 9:21 PM
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rnevius wrote: I wasn't agreeing with him. I was merely letting Learner know what ceebo meant by his "socket" comment.
Ah! Carry on.
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j_ung
Jun 21, 2011, 9:39 PM
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I'm in the DVD.
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ceebo
Jun 22, 2011, 12:06 AM
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jt512 wrote: rnevius wrote: Shameless plug Since Learner isn't (to the best of my knowledge) affiliated with the authors or publishers of the SCC books, he has nothing to gain by "plugging" them, so ceebo's criticism makes no sense. At least ceebo is consistent. Jay
Who said it was a criticism, was it the happy smiley face that tipped the scale?. Im sure the book will be worth every penny, dime or camel (not a racist joke, ok slightly).
But, intentional or not i would still define that as a plug.. just so i can remain consistent.
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j_ung
Jun 22, 2011, 1:08 AM
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jt512 wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm in the DVD. In the new one?
Yup. Dan and Doug crashed at our place while shooting at the New, and I helped out a bit scouting locations. Ended up belaying for the anchor-cleaning scene. I assume I'm blurry and/or off frame. But I was there, dammit.
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johnwesely
Jun 22, 2011, 1:36 AM
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Is the new book only about tactics?
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jt512
Jun 22, 2011, 2:10 AM
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j_ung wrote: jt512 wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm in the DVD. In the new one? Yup. Dan and Doug crashed at our place while shooting at the New, and I helped out a bit scouting locations. Ended up belaying for the anchor-cleaning scene. I assume I'm blurry and/or off frame. But I was there, dammit.
You had to do a lot of work to get in. ;)
Jay
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Learner
Jun 22, 2011, 3:33 AM
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jt512 wrote: rnevius wrote: Shameless plug Since Learner isn't (to the best of my knowledge) affiliated with the authors or publishers of the SCC books, he has nothing to gain by "plugging" them, so ceebo's criticism makes no sense. At least ceebo is consistent. Jay
ceebo wrote: Who said it was a criticism, was it the happy smiley face that tipped the scale?. Im sure the book will be worth every penny, dime or camel (not a racist joke, ok slightly). But, intentional or not i would still define that as a plug.. just so i can remain consistent.
johnwesely wrote: Is the new book only about tactics?
"The first in-depth book on redpointing, where the climber does not weight the rope or pull or stand on manmade equipment
Assessing your redpoint and on-sight skills, choosing a route, and practicing with learning burns
The best ways to use equipment and safest belay methods and rope tricks for working routes
Tips for preparing mentally, physically, and emotionally for flash and on-sight burns, climbs that you haven't attempted previously"
http://www.amazon.com/...308713134&sr=1-1
Again, from that reply by Dan Hague in the other thread:
"We help climbers learn routes faster and with less effort so they can send in less time.
We lay out the process of learning and memorizing sequences, rests, and movement nuance faster so you can send harder routes in less time using less effort. There’s also an on-sight performance section in which we help climbers read routes from afar and tips on applying the process to bouldering. Plus the physical conditioning and emotional response elements pertinent to each type of climbing."
Judging from the way the Self-Coached Climber was spectacularly delivered, Redpoint looks to be one hell of a book.
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Learner
Jun 22, 2011, 3:47 AM
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jomagam wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm in the DVD. Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable.
Call
800-732-3669 extension 136
and/or e-mail
slane@stackpolebooks.com
Just tell them that the DVD that came with your book is not reading correctly.
http://www.stackpolebooks.com/.../customerservice.cfm
I know this because of the third reply (by "granite grrl") in this thread: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ACHED%20DVD;#1716724 Check it out.
Maybe they'll do the same for you.
(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 22, 2011, 3:55 AM)
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jt512
Jun 22, 2011, 3:59 AM
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jomagam wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm in the DVD. Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable.
To clarify, the new book is not a new "version" of the first book; it is a new volume. That is, it covers different subject matter.
And, yes, when the first book came out, some came with defective DVDs, and the publisher was very good about replacing them; so, if you have a bad DVD, contact them.
Jay
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MTBZEN
Jun 22, 2011, 5:15 PM
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jt512 wrote: jomagam wrote: j_ung wrote: I'm in the DVD. Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable. To clarify, the new book is not a new "version" of the first book; it is a new volume. That is, it covers different subject matter. And, yes, when the first book came out, some came with defective DVDs, and the publisher was very good about replacing them; so, if you have a bad DVD, contact them. Jay
Totally worth the effort to get it replaced, IMO.
Just started watching it last night and it really pulls together the concepts in the book with visual demos.
Can't wait to try the exercises tonight!
(This post was edited by MTBZEN on Jun 22, 2011, 5:15 PM)
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danhague
Jun 22, 2011, 5:17 PM
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j_ung, now THAT"S what I call a shameless plug! Douglas is currently in post production for the DVD so even I haven't seen a finished version yet - that deadline is in mid-July.
rtwilli, I'm not sure who you are. Did I take photos of you? If so, on what? The book is more or less complete so I can check the photos that made the cut and let you know if you made it.
BTW, Douglas will be back east to do some commercial video for me in Virginia so we may see some of you at the New in late July.
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rtwilli4
Jun 22, 2011, 5:50 PM
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Dan,
My name is Ryan. My friend Adam and I ran into you at Cotton Top on Bridge Day last year. You guys were filming on those 10's and 11's to near the right side of the wall. I tried to on-sight that classic 12a and then tried to red-point it a few times and fell off. You photographed me and I signed a waiver for you. I was wearing an orange shirt and green pants.
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danhague
Jun 22, 2011, 6:03 PM
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I'm happy to report that a picture of you on Psycho Wrangler is in the first chapter of Redpoint.
rtwilli4 wrote: Dan, My name is Ryan. My friend Adam and I ran into you at Cotton Top on Bridge Day last year. You guys were filming on those 10's and 11's to near the right side of the wall. I tried to on-sight that classic 12a and then tried to red-point it a few times and fell off. You photographed me and I signed a waiver for you. I was wearing an orange shirt and green pants. |
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