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bbshen
Jul 8, 2011, 10:39 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Aug 5, 2010
Posts: 6
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Hi all,
I am a climbing instructor, and today a student asked a question which I was not entirely sure how to answer.
I was just covering the parts of a harness. I explained that the tie-in points are where 'soft-gear' goes (ei: rope, nylon, spectra) and the belay loop is where all 'hard-ware' goes (steel, aluminum, carabiners).
The student asked: why?
I answered to the best of my knowledge:
-the belay loop prevents tri-axial loading on carabiners.
-tie in points 'distributes' wear (fact check plz?) to 2-points instead of one b/c nylon on nylon contact creates excessive friction and wears more quickly.
So why else? I know I'm missing some reasons...
I hate being 'that guy' who teaches bullshit. So the purpose of this post is to evaluate the validity of my answer, and also to see how you guys would answer that question. The more facts on why the modern harness is designed the way it is, the better.
I will be seeing my students again sunday, so any good advice/facts you guys give me will be passed directly to them.
Thanks guys
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StuMsg
Jul 8, 2011, 11:32 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Dec 23, 2010
Posts: 47
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As far I know;
back in the early days of sit harnesses they did not have belay loops (some alpine ones still dont). Both climbers would tie in. the loop in the rope is now your belay loop.
Belay loops were then built into harnesses as standard.
So hardware goes in the built in belay because it will be orientated correctly without having to tie into the other end.
Why rope is not tied onto the belay loop, I don't know. Perhaps it's because it would move around more and be more suseptable to loosening knots.
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TradEddie
Jul 8, 2011, 4:01 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 164
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Look at your tie-in points, the nylon is covered with some other protective material. I don't know if this actually reduces friction or is simply more durable, but the belay loop is not protected in this way.
TE
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