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unbrbldeath
Sep 13, 2011, 8:32 AM
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Hey guys so I need help finding a training program that will allow me to pass up my peek. Technically I've been climbing for 5 years but only about 3 of that time has been active. At the moment I have climbed about 5 V6's and I want to be able to climb more of them and start to climb V7's or V8's. Any recommendations on a training program to push past the V5/6 bump?
Just so you have some idea of what I'm doing right now, I climb in the gym 3 to 4 days a week for anywhere from 2-5hrs each time but I don't seem to be climbing any better.
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sungam
Sep 13, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Definitely seems like a case of needing to train smarter, not more often. Your volumee seems to be fine.
When you "train", what do you do? Just boulder about, or do you have a structure?
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lena_chita
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Sep 13, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Is all your climbing indoor, or are you talking about boulder problems outside?
I agree with sungam, the amount of time you spend in a gym is quite adequate.
Try to identify your relative strengths and weaknesses and work on the skills that are relatively weak.
If you can, mix things up. Climb different styles of problems, go to different areas outside, climb different rock types. Basicly, expand your skill set.
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saint_john
Sep 13, 2011, 5:20 PM
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Do you climb with people that can send V7/8?
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unbrbldeath
Sep 13, 2011, 5:42 PM
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sungam wrote: Definitely seems like a case of needing to train smarter, not more often. Your volumee seems to be fine. When you "train", what do you do? Just boulder about, or do you have a structure?
I don't have much of a structure other than warming up for 30-45min and cooling down with some laps on a campus board. Normally i'll climb until I feel warm enough to start climbing my V6 projects and go around the gym trying them a few times each.
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unbrbldeath
Sep 13, 2011, 5:47 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Is all your climbing indoor, or are you talking about boulder problems outside? I agree with sungam, the amount of time you spend in a gym is quite adequate. Try to identify your relative strengths and weaknesses and work on the skills that are relatively weak. If you can, mix things up. Climb different styles of problems, go to different areas outside, climb different rock types. Basicly, expand your skill set.
I mainly climb indoors, I dont have crash pads and my friends that do live 1hr or so away. I'd say the holds and problems I feel I'm better at are ones with pinches or slopers I'm not great at crimping but I can do them when I need to and have been trying to work problems with more crimps to train my fingers to crimp more efficiently.
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unbrbldeath
Sep 13, 2011, 5:50 PM
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saint_john wrote: Do you climb with people that can send V7/8?
Yes and no most of the guys I climb with work the 7's and are definitely better than me but they're not constantly sending 7's and 8's
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sungam
Sep 13, 2011, 9:18 PM
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unbrbldeath wrote: cooling down with some laps on a campus board.
As far as structured training goes, browse the net - there is a huge amount of info if you know where to look. Check out Rockprodigy's "The making of a Rockprodigy" on this website, look at Greshem's stuff over at planet fear, and Horst's stuff over at Nicros.
Feel free to watch the "pro tips" on youtube but ignore the advice on one arm hangs unless you weigh 80 pounds or less - one arm hangs are one of the fastest fastrack to shoulder injury. Malcolm Smith gives some good advice.
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bentgate03
Sep 13, 2011, 10:11 PM
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unbrbldeath wrote: sungam wrote: Definitely seems like a case of needing to train smarter, not more often. Your volumee seems to be fine. When you "train", what do you do? Just boulder about, or do you have a structure? I don't have much of a structure other than warming up for 30-45min and cooling down with some laps on a campus board. Normally i'll climb until I feel warm enough to start climbing my V6 projects and go around the gym trying them a few times each.
"cooling down on the campus board"
This line right here tells me that you do not have a structured training regime. No one in there right mind would "cool" down on a campus board.
To break into higher grades takes more than wandering around trying problems haphazardly as the others have suggested. Being able to be in a gym for 5 hours suggest what you are doing is unfocused. If you are training properly 5 hours sessions are way too long.
Go into each session with a training goal in mind and achieve that goal. Find out why you are failing and configure your training to eliminate those weaknesses.
Quality over quantity. Spend less but more focused time in the gym. Read what others have suggested.
Moonclimbing is also a good resource as well.
(This post was edited by bentgate03 on Sep 13, 2011, 10:12 PM)
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spikeddem
Sep 13, 2011, 10:15 PM
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bentgate03 wrote: unbrbldeath wrote: sungam wrote: Definitely seems like a case of needing to train smarter, not more often. Your volumee seems to be fine. When you "train", what do you do? Just boulder about, or do you have a structure? I don't have much of a structure other than warming up for 30-45min and cooling down with some laps on a campus board. Normally i'll climb until I feel warm enough to start climbing my V6 projects and go around the gym trying them a few times each. "cooling down on the campus board" This line right here tells me that you do not have a structured training regime. No one in there right mind would "cool" down on a campus board. To break into higher grades takes more than wandering around trying problems haphazardly as the others have suggested. Being able to be in a gym for 5 hours suggest what you are doing is unfocused. If you are training properly 5 hours sessions are way too long. Go into each session with a training goal in mind and achieve that goal. Find out why you are failing and configure your training to eliminate those weaknesses. Quality over quantity. Spend less but more focused time in the gym. Read what others have suggested. Moonclimbing is also a good resource as well.
Nice post, Bentgate03. I agree.
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unbrbldeath
Sep 14, 2011, 5:06 AM
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Just to clarify I am using my legs on the campus board but that is still probably a bad idea i'm guessing. I guess I have no clue on how to cool down then. So I'll go check out the pro tips on youtube and see if i can get some tips on a training program.
You're correct that I have no steady training program I wouldn't even call what I do training really its just climbing. So what do you guys do to cool down?
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sungam
Sep 14, 2011, 9:51 AM
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A cool down should be the same as your warm up, but shorter. Easy climbing on excellent holds at an easy angle, slowly tapering off the intensity.
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MS1
Sep 14, 2011, 12:29 PM
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unbrbldeath wrote: Just to clarify I am using my legs on the campus board but that is still probably a bad idea i'm guessing. I guess I have no clue on how to cool down then. So I'll go check out the pro tips on youtube and see if i can get some tips on a training program. You're correct that I have no steady training program I wouldn't even call what I do training really its just climbing. So what do you guys do to cool down?
My typical cool-down:
Drop down to hardest grade I can consistently finish when tired. Do two problems at that grade. Then subtract a grade and do two problems at that difficulty. Repeat until you are at vEasy, and then quit for the day. I usually stick with problems I know well, focusing on climbing with good technique (which is harder when you are tired).
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bentgate03
Sep 14, 2011, 1:28 PM
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MS1 wrote: unbrbldeath wrote: Just to clarify I am using my legs on the campus board but that is still probably a bad idea i'm guessing. I guess I have no clue on how to cool down then. So I'll go check out the pro tips on youtube and see if i can get some tips on a training program. You're correct that I have no steady training program I wouldn't even call what I do training really its just climbing. So what do you guys do to cool down? My typical cool-down: Drop down to hardest grade I can consistently finish when tired. Do two problems at that grade. Then subtract a grade and do two problems at that difficulty. Repeat until you are at vEasy, and then quit for the day. I usually stick with problems I know well, focusing on climbing with good technique (which is harder when you are tired).
I would add to that light stretching. I also do some sport massage to my forearms and fingers to aid in the removal of waste build-up and increase blood flow. This helps stimulate healing and repair. After a particularly hard session i usually even go home and ice my elbows before I hop in the shower. Ice-heat-ice helps get blood flow into those notoriously hard places to get blood flow into.
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JAB
Sep 14, 2011, 2:13 PM
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Like was earlier said, the first thing is to start climbing with people who are better than you. This you already have. So when you struggle and fall off a move, carefully study how your stronger friend does the move, and ask them to study what you do. Is your foot slipping? Maybe you need to use your core better. Can't you reach the next hold? Maybe a slight adjustment of a knee drop would help.
Work the same problem several times, and try to do the moves as perfectly as possible. This can actually be beneficial on easier problems too, try to understand how different positions, static vs dynamic moves, rests etc can be utilised to send the problem with the minimum amount of energy.
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