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robdotcalm
Nov 22, 2011, 9:18 PM
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Since I climb mostly at Vedauwoo there are limitations on the season. As the guidebook ( Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming) states:
“ … visitors will find that reliable conditions occur between May and October. Traditionalists will note that climbing before Easter or Passover is unlikely, but the season is in full swing by Pentecost and ends by Veterans Day. However, the wind season (early January until late December) can be a bit trying. “
I just checked the wind there on the highway cam—56 mph.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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ajkclay
Nov 23, 2011, 7:45 AM
Post #27 of 35
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Jacques i have given this a bit of thought and I think this may be the best answer for you:
At the rate you say you are training and at the strength levels I think you are saying you have measured you are an elite climber.
If you are not climbing in the French 8a+ (YDS 5.13+) then you are wasting your efforts or training wrong.
You need to either talk to your coach or get a coach.
There is not much that anyone here can offer you (even elite climbers) because you need someone to examine your training methods and climbing style in depth to work out your weaknesses.
Many climbers can get to the 5.12 / French 7's with little formal or structured training so if this is the range you are climbing with all of the training you are doing you are training too hard for your returns.
I'm sorry my friend but you need informed feedback from someone on a personal level. Take camhead's advice of talking to someone who speaks your native language and get them to help you find a coach.
Good luck
Adam
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guangzhou
Nov 23, 2011, 11:46 AM
Post #28 of 35
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chadnsc wrote: jacques wrote: guangzhou wrote: I really can't understand your post. If you're in a bad environment, get out of it. If you stay, it's your choice and stop complaining about it. Not sure where teenagers at school fit into this thread. It is easy to say to change the environment, it is not always possible. Divorce is some thing that a teenager can not go out of it. If they climb too hard, it is the responsibility of those in a gym or outside to instruct them that the agressivity can be a sign of overtraining, not that the young is a bad guy. Climbing, trad mostly, is so close to nature that one most respect what happen on there body. I overtrain and I knew it. Is it a good think to say to a teenager that if he study after two hour of climbing, his exam will not be as good as he train for half an hour and relax to be ready for his exam. In a gym or outside, it is easy to show them that climbing tired and climbing in good shape is not the same. Climbing 300 meters in trad...it is harder than climbing stairs for 4 hoursin a row. Jacques, With all due respect I'd listen to Camhead's advice about finding a forum that is in your native French.
If you want, post your comment in French, I will translate it. French is my first language. Maybe that will help.
I don't think French, but Canadian, most likely some near Montreal based on climbing locations he mentions.
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Nov 23, 2011, 11:49 AM)
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chadnsc
Nov 23, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #29 of 35
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guangzhou wrote: chadnsc wrote: jacques wrote: guangzhou wrote: I really can't understand your post. If you're in a bad environment, get out of it. If you stay, it's your choice and stop complaining about it. Not sure where teenagers at school fit into this thread. It is easy to say to change the environment, it is not always possible. Divorce is some thing that a teenager can not go out of it. If they climb too hard, it is the responsibility of those in a gym or outside to instruct them that the agressivity can be a sign of overtraining, not that the young is a bad guy. Climbing, trad mostly, is so close to nature that one most respect what happen on there body. I overtrain and I knew it. Is it a good think to say to a teenager that if he study after two hour of climbing, his exam will not be as good as he train for half an hour and relax to be ready for his exam. In a gym or outside, it is easy to show them that climbing tired and climbing in good shape is not the same. Climbing 300 meters in trad...it is harder than climbing stairs for 4 hoursin a row. Jacques, With all due respect I'd listen to Camhead's advice about finding a forum that is in your native French. If you want, post your comment in French, I will translate it. French is my first language. Maybe that will help. I don't think French, but Canadian, most likely some near Montreal based on climbing locations he mentions.
Actually after seeing more posts by Jacques on squamishclimbers.com I think he's nothing more than a troll.
(This post was edited by chadnsc on Nov 23, 2011, 3:25 PM)
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jacques
Nov 23, 2011, 5:13 PM
Post #30 of 35
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chadnsc wrote: Actually after seeing more posts by Jacques on squamishclimbers.com I think he's nothing more than a troll.
I don't remember wroting on squamishclimber.com. Actually, I remember to had wrote something when a Quebec climber died, but not sure that it is on squamish. I never head west canada.
And I am not a troll. You can understand that people are sedentary and nomade. for sedentary person, a little change is some thing important. For namade, a little change is boring. The difference in mentality is hard to understand as we are mostly one or the other. I just bring the perception of climbing in different words. (see next post I will write)
(This post was edited by jacques on Nov 23, 2011, 5:44 PM)
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chadnsc
Nov 23, 2011, 5:36 PM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Nov 24, 2003
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jacques wrote: chadnsc wrote: Actually after seeing more posts by Jacques on squamishclimbers.com I think he's nothing more than a troll. I don't remember wroting on squamishclimber.com. Actually, I remember to had wrote something when a Quebec climber died, but not sure that it is on squamish. I never head west canada. And I am not a troll. You can understand that people are sedentary and nomade. for sedentary person, a little change is some thing important. For namade, a little change is boring. The difference in mentality is hard to understand as we are mostly one or the other. I just bring the perception of climbing in different words. (see next post)
From squamishclimbing.com:
http://squamishclimbing.com/...c.php?f=1&t=1922
Bearbreeder posted a link in the 'Falling' discussion, by coincidence I came across it.
Edit to fix link. 
(This post was edited by chadnsc on Nov 23, 2011, 5:38 PM)
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jacques
Nov 23, 2011, 5:37 PM
Post #32 of 35
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ajkclay wrote: Jacques i have given this a bit of thought and I think this may be the best answer for you: At the rate you say you are training and at the strength levels I think you are saying you have measured you are an elite climber. If you are not climbing in the French 8a+ (YDS 5.13+) then you are wasting your efforts or training wrong. Adam
Thank you for yor answer adam. For many people, your answer is the right one. I am sure that a good coach can see the problem of over training. Look at the post of cchas: "Now I'm taking a break for a month, actually my orthopedic doctor told me 4 to 6 weeks). Hold it, I've started to top rope again.....and will start leading in 4 to 6wks....." it is what I did. I was laughting when I climb a 5.10 four week before I had the O.K. to climb. Even if my major problem is allergic reaction to smoke, I pay for that today. rest a little cchas!!!
For my training...it is to climb the nose. The first time I went there, I was in very good shape. The team was not prepare and we bail. the second time, I had shoulder injury in may and I went to make it in september...not intelligent I agree. I still trained hard for the last year. When I arrive to the yos, after 55 hours drive in three days. It was raining and I don't had a partner. After I found one whitout enought experience, we had a flod. I was destroy mentally and my body told me that it was enought. I don't listen to it...after all. But my body was stroner than my mind. And I wasn't able to climb over my pro mentally.
My story is one of the many unknow story. Your suggestion to found a coach or at least someone to explain what is overtraining is a great one. I wrote my history not to be humiliate, but I want to climb the nose clean. For me, climbing 5.13 is ridiculous because I don't have time to put more time in a sport
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jakedatc
Nov 23, 2011, 10:58 PM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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Trad start at 5.8 and no sport bolt climb can do this by gym trainer!!
(jacques has been told on multiple sites to find a French canadian based site but would rather babble incoherently to whoever is silly enough to try to translate)
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willy_p_wyld
Nov 24, 2011, 1:16 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: May 28, 2011
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Its always trad season in alaska! When the rock starts getting icy I just trade in my chalk for ice tools and my cams for specters and ice screws.
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rangerrob
Nov 24, 2011, 1:39 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
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Chas, I had two screws put in yesterday, and my Ortho gave me a 4-6 week hiatus too. Wanna get together and drink some scotch?
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