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bman123
Feb 2, 2012, 5:06 AM
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I have narrowed the countries I am going to visit down to three because I only have a month in europe and would like to get some good climbing in. I am pretty sure i will have to go in august although i am trying for possibly june. I am a sport climber and would love to do some great sport climbing in beautiful locations. I was wondering if the dolomites had any multi pitch all bolted routes. I would also love to do some dwsoloing in southern france or italy. I heard that the verdon gorge is great but I dont know if it would be too hot in august. Also im sure there are some great hikes/easy alpine climbs in the swiss alps. Any information on where to stay, places to see, trails to hike, beer to drink, and food to eat would also be appreciated.
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JimTitt
Feb 2, 2012, 3:28 PM
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Youīve picked the short straw if you have to go in August! France and Italy go on holiday for August so it is full, packed and quite busy as well. Tends to be hot as well.
Verdon is shockingly hot in August but I guess it depends on the climate you are used to.
Dolomites are o.k as you are high up though it is still hot in the sun, their idea of fully bolted may not be the same as yours though. Think occasional bolts of usually dubious quality interspersed with some odd pegs, threads and so on. this is pretty typical uless you go to the `plaisirīareas which have more normal bolting even on longer easy routes. Austria and Switerland are good for this. In the Dolomites your best bet is Arco which isnīt really like the rest of the Dolomites but has long bolted sport routes.
In Switzerland the best places are probably Eldorado/Grimsel area but the bolting is very sporting on the granite slabs, you just need to man up a bit!
There is probably some DWS in the Calanques in S France and at Finale in Italy but there are better reasons to go to these places, for example real climbing.
Jim
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qwert
Feb 2, 2012, 6:42 PM
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JimTitt wrote: In the Dolomites your best bet is Arco which isnīt really like the rest of the Dolomites but has long bolted sport routes.
(But somewhat close to the dolomites, or rather some parts of them)
Arco will be hot & crowded, but you might still find some climbable rock.
In the the dolomites you can find fully bolted routes (e.g. theres a few at the Sella) but dont expect a whole area full of them. And beware of the guidebooks: As Jim mentioned, if the topo says "bolts", those might be of rather questionable quality
qwert
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JimTitt
Feb 2, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Hmm.
The climbing at Arco is in the Brenta Group, better known to the Italians as the Brentner Dolomiti.
The Dolomites are cover over three distinct areas, the Dolomiti Orientali, Dolomiti Piccole and the Brentner Dolomi. Iīm suprised you didnīt know this!
Jim
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bman123
Feb 2, 2012, 11:40 PM
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so basically I need to try and go a different month. Im thinking I may be able to swing june but its a long shot. however I could wait and go the next january but then I feel like I would have the opposite problem. If I have to go in august would it be worth going to austria instead of france and if so then where. Thanks for the post guys, I have never been to europe so it def helps to ask someone who knows
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bman123
Feb 3, 2012, 12:08 AM
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Also I am from Tennessee so 75 - 80o F is not that hot to me
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eric_k
Feb 4, 2012, 9:25 PM
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How hard do you climb? Wendenstock Switzerland has some really cool looking routes. They start at about 6b but most are around 7a/b or harder. I have never been there but want to head there soon. If any of the more experienced euros disagree and don't think this is good in August let us know.
Eric
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JimTitt
Feb 5, 2012, 4:03 PM
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January youīll have the other problem for sure, itīs -17° (0°F) out my door at the moment (I live near Munich in southern Germany). Even as far south as you can get it isnīt so warm, I spent New Year in Sicily and it was mostly 13° and today it is 5°.
August Iīd be looking at anywhere a bit higher up (hot in southern Europe in the summer is 85° to 110°F) so Austria, Italian Alps/Dolomites, Switzerland and some areas in France. Verdon itself can be a deathly hot suntrap since itīs a gorge and you climb on the south facing side but plenty of more normal crags around the area. Itīs fairly high up though so if its cool enough then worth going though!
At least in the mountains youīll miss the worst of the holidaymakers, on the coast anywhere it would be madness!
Jim
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bman123
Feb 10, 2012, 2:55 AM
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Yea that is way to hot and way to cold. I am thinking about waiting another year so I can try and go in the spring. Do you know if most of the areas have hostels near them and how much it is on average to stay around europe.
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bman123
Feb 10, 2012, 2:57 AM
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eric I looked that place up and yea the routes look awesome. My max is 5.11c though so probably wont be too much for me there
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degaine
Feb 22, 2012, 8:13 AM
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If you plan to be in France in August, head to the higher elevations, places like Le Verdon, Les Calanques, or Presles are fantastic, but get pretty hot in the summer time.
Here are a two good sport climbing areas with well bolted multi-pitch routes:
1) Just south of Brianįon is Ailefroide: http://www.paysdesecrins.com/uk/
Cheap campground, and hundreds of routes within walking distance of camp (and great bouldering as well).
2) Near Annecy are the Aravis Mountains:
http://www.lakeannecy-skiresorts.com/ski-resort.html
http://www.legrandbornand.com/...sh.html#.T0Sic_XOquk
http://www.laclusaz.com/home-winter.html
4 star limestone climbing in the area, and you should be able to find lodging in any one of the resorts / villages, even in August.
Hope that helps.
Cheers.
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JimTitt
Feb 22, 2012, 7:19 PM
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Iīll agree with Ailefroide for sure, havenīt been to La Clusaz area in the summer so couldnīt say but it must be pretty good.
If you can fly into Munich (depending on my summer family holidays) I can give you somewhere to sleep and Iīll be around for the Frankenjura, Arco and the Dolomites, they are all near enough. Iīm always available for beer drinking, itīs my main hobby!
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Couloirman
Mar 3, 2012, 3:59 PM
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If you go in late June-mid July I will be there and looking for a climbing partner for multi pitch sport and trad. Got a lot of routes on my to do list so hit me up if youre looking for a partner.
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bman123
Apr 5, 2012, 8:41 PM
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I happen to be very into beer drinking as well. I will have to let you know when we finally decide on when were going so we can climb and catch a buzz. Thanks to everyone for the advice
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