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flesh
Jun 12, 2012, 12:43 AM
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I can route climb okay, but not near my bouldering level.
I have a route I really want to redpoint by this fall. It's about 30 feet long, 5 bolts, it's a constant angle and very steep. I can do all the moves already. It will be hot this summer and difficult to climb at my limit. I'd like to train for it and have the fitness when it cools down a bit.
Any route experts out there who have some ideas to train for this route specifically? I have been doing some similar length routes of an easier grade with a 20 lb weight vest and doing 3 by 3's (because it's not that long I figure) at my gym.
Any ideas?
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guangzhou
Jun 12, 2012, 2:13 AM
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Really depends on what resources you have available to you.
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granite_grrl
Jun 12, 2012, 11:33 AM
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Sounds like you have to work your power endurence, probably your endurence quite a bit too if you're a boulderer, though truthfully you have do an analysis your self of what you have to work on account that it's impossible to tell from the interweb.
Lots of info out there on 4x4's, ARCing, and other training stratagies.
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boadman
Jun 12, 2012, 5:31 PM
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flesh wrote: I can route climb okay, but not near my bouldering level. I have a route I really want to redpoint by this fall. It's about 30 feet long, 5 bolts, it's a constant angle and very steep. I can do all the moves already. It will be hot this summer and difficult to climb at my limit. I'd like to train for it and have the fitness when it cools down a bit. Any route experts out there who have some ideas to train for this route specifically? I have been doing some similar length routes of an easier grade with a 20 lb weight vest and doing 3 by 3's (because it's not that long I figure) at my gym. Any ideas?
4x4s of similar length and slightly harder difficulty will get you set up just fine. For a route that long, you'll only need about two weeks of 4x4s. Just boulder until then. You should be able to do 4x4s about 5 days/week for two or three weeks before you want to send, then rest for 3-4 days and it'll go down quick.
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flesh
Jun 12, 2012, 8:59 PM
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TY. I'm getting on it this weekend to practice the moves. I'll just plan on bouldering till august and start up the 3x3s beginnning of sept.
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mr.tastycakes
Jun 13, 2012, 2:20 PM
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boadman wrote: You should be able to do 4x4s about 5 days/week for two or three weeks before you want to send, then rest for 3-4 days and it'll go down quick.
Holy shit that's a ton of volume. I couldn't handle that, but obviously YMMV. More like 2 times a week for me.
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boadman
Jun 13, 2012, 3:11 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote: boadman wrote: You should be able to do 4x4s about 5 days/week for two or three weeks before you want to send, then rest for 3-4 days and it'll go down quick. Holy shit that's a ton of volume. I couldn't handle that, but obviously YMMV. More like 2 times a week for me.
You're probably training too long then. Shorter, more focused work-outs will leave you with enough in the tank to do more work outs per week. Warm-up for 30 or 40 minutes, do 4x4 set, go home. Repeat the next two days, rest one day, do two more days, rest one day, do three days, etc. When your level starts to drop (4x4 level, not hard move level) it's time to rest another day. I was skeptical until I tried it, but PE workouts shouldn't completely trash you.
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mr.tastycakes
Jun 13, 2012, 3:34 PM
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boadman wrote: mr.tastycakes wrote: boadman wrote: You should be able to do 4x4s about 5 days/week for two or three weeks before you want to send, then rest for 3-4 days and it'll go down quick. Holy shit that's a ton of volume. I couldn't handle that, but obviously YMMV. More like 2 times a week for me. You're probably training too long then. Shorter, more focused work-outs will leave you with enough in the tank to do more work outs per week. Warm-up for 30 or 40 minutes, do 4x4 set, go home. Repeat the next two days, rest one day, do two more days, rest one day, do three days, etc. When your level starts to drop (4x4 level, not hard move level) it's time to rest another day. I was skeptical until I tried it, but PE workouts shouldn't completely trash you.
I've always just added the 4x4's onto the end of my gym sessions. So, you're right, I'm probably training too long. I'll give this a try. Thanks
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bentgate03
Jun 13, 2012, 4:47 PM
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Now I am not picking but 4x4s at the end of your gym session. This is like the guy that said he warmed down on the campus board.
Train smarter not harder. A 4x4 meant to train PE at the end of a gym session when you are already toast is just going to:
1. hurt you
2. wipe you out so much you cant keep training
3. demotivate you
Pick the physiology you want to train and train it with laser focus.
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flesh
Jun 13, 2012, 6:23 PM
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Agree with ^^^^^^
I usually just boulder or campus... and climb every other day and after a couple weeks of every other need 2 days off. I took my regualar 3 week /year break recently and when I came back only did endurance and PE. It had been so long since I did anything but boulder or campus that I was suprised that I could do 2 days on 1 off for two weeks straight and see consistent PE improvements.
If you just warm up and then do 4x4 then leave. You can do 4 or 5 a week. During workout drinks help with recovery even more when climbing 4 or 5 a week.
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yodadave
Jun 14, 2012, 12:18 AM
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So am i the only one that wonders if PE is really your problem?
Its not exactly a long route. Some would call it a tall boulder problem.
Training endurance is great but I guess i just don't think a 30 footer should require that much endurance. Even if you are used to 8 move boulder problems.
With the training you plan to put in you'll crush, especially if you can already do all the moves
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guangzhou
Jun 14, 2012, 1:42 AM
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yodadave wrote: So am i the only one that wonders if PE is really your problem? Its not exactly a long route. Some would call it a tall boulder problem. Training endurance is great but I guess i just don't think a 30 footer should require that much endurance. Even if you are used to 8 move boulder problems. With the training you plan to put in you'll crush, especially if you can already do all the moves
Really depend on the angle. 30 ft is short, unless it's 45 degree or horizontal.
Training, I've never enjoyed 4 by 4, I just climb and boulder instead when I'm in the gym.
I think physically pushing yourself on a route will give you lots of training. Want to train for this, sounds like you have a climbing gym. Find a wall with a similar angle in your gym, pick a route harder and climb. (Down climb too if you want extra endurance)
Climb several route of similar angle to maximize you strength.
Most people need to work on lead head not strength when pushing themselves anyway.
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flesh
Jun 14, 2012, 6:29 AM
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I'm was doing 3 x 3s in the cave..... about 35-40 feet. The hardest three boulder problems I can do in a row. As I gain I just minus the easiest one and add one slightly harder.
I figure in terms of time spent climbing 35-40 feet is like 30 + clipping.
It is very steep, the steepest I've climbed. It's basically a 50 ft. roof, however the cilmb ends without topping out. Every clip 4 out of 5 clips are very difficult. I have to shake out everytime before I can clip right now and always feel like I'm about to fall while clipping. 4 clips like this! It's a second pitch also so it's very exposed. Only sport route I've tried that I get a little scared each time before I climb it. Fun!
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