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greatgarbanzo
Nov 22, 2001, 12:12 AM
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I want to explain everything to everyone about any question or doubt... simply post here yours!
Yesterday i did my first 1 arm pull up in a 1/2" edge!!!! and 9 months ago i could not half on a jug!!! THIS TRAINING PROGRAM IS AWESOME!!!
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vishnuepie
Nov 22, 2001, 12:47 AM
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so whats the program???
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rrrADAM
Nov 22, 2001, 12:52 AM
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Click "view article this post is about' just above first post.
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awkward
Nov 22, 2001, 5:01 PM
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This training program kind of hits me as common sense. As the holds get smaller or more negative, you need more strength to hang on them. This is comparable to adding more weight while working out other muscles. Not to mention you are supposed to stretch before and after any workout. I do like the fact that somebody finally laid it all out in an article for people just getting into training. I also liked the distinction between isometric and dynamic strengths. I would like to congradulate the author on a well-written article.
-Bryan
For the one-arm pullup climber: Was this one armed pullup acheived hanging your other arm downwarm or grabbing the forearm of the working arm? I am quite curious. Either way, I am impressed.
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greatgarbanzo
Nov 22, 2001, 6:52 PM
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HEY!!! I AM THE AUTHOR OF THE ARTICLE!!!! THANX FOR THE CONGRATULATIONS!!!!
I did the one arm pull up with my rigth hand on the edge and the left one deadhanging from the shoulder... the hard way... actually the only way a 1 arm pull up is done!!!
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awkward
Nov 23, 2001, 9:31 PM
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Man... That's gotta be hard on the shoulder. But hey. No pain no gain
-Bryan
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greatgarbanzo
Nov 24, 2001, 2:07 AM
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Actually is way harder on the back and bycep... so much harder that I have never even notice the effort on my shoulder
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greatgarbanzo
Dec 10, 2001, 3:16 PM
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for above>>>
You have 2 options... either you go to the rock and search for the right holds to hang on to(?!) or...
you make your own holds on wood (my choice...) and you save the $$$!
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coach
Dec 10, 2001, 3:33 PM
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This topic has been moved from the "General" forum to this one where it more rightly belongs.
Climb On
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aulwes
Dec 10, 2001, 3:56 PM
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When the program say's 24hrs rest dose that mean you can do the work out every day?
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fusion
Dec 10, 2001, 6:01 PM
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Sounds like a cool training program... I'll have to try it out.
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greatgarbanzo
Dec 15, 2001, 12:58 PM
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WOW
I can not believe i made such an stupid mistake... i meant 48hrs of rest!!! if you train everyday you will get injured for sure!!!
[ Este Mensaje fue editado por: greatgarbanzo el 2001-12-16 07:46 ]
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mtngypsy
Mar 29, 2002, 8:19 PM
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thanks for the great article
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cass
Sep 25, 2002, 8:26 AM
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see topic Need the example training programs from this article!
from vfifteen
Please somebody could you send me the tables of example training programs on this article?!? They're just not showing up for me so I cannot read them/ see them... there is the same problem with the muscle stretch diagrams as well....
Dunno if you could send it to my hotmail (redhotchiliz_13@hotmail.com)??
Not sure about that but surely somebody could suggest someway I could get them.... its real annoying coz the articles real good but I cant get the articles - therefore I cannot try it..
Thanks everyone for your time...
Rock On
V15
[ This Message was edited by: cass on 2002-09-25 01:29 ]
[ This Message was edited by: cass on 2002-09-25 01:29 ]
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thoxsie
Sep 25, 2002, 12:36 PM
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?Question?
Who stole the pictures? Or is my computer just not downloading them? Can anyone els see the Pictures?
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kitt
Sep 25, 2002, 1:34 PM
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i want to see the pictures too!
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wyomingclimber
Sep 25, 2002, 4:18 PM
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There's definitely some good advice here, but it could still use a little refinement.
You kind of need to go back to the drawing board on your physiology discussion. It is, for the most part, completely incorrect.
You should also add that if you're going to pursue this kind of training, periodization is extremely important. No more than 4 weeks at a time with a minimum of a 4 week layoff from power (if this was covered on pg 2, nevermind--I couldn't get a lot of it come up.)
I'd also argue that absolute finger power is not as much of a limiter as people think it is in route climbing (more important in bouldering.) Most people fail on moves that they could do if they were three feet off the ground. Technique is king and power-endurance is a distant second--this is particularly true in the easier grades (ie below .12a.)
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ride
Oct 8, 2002, 4:46 PM
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Nope no figures for me either, looks like the server doesn't have permissions to read the .jpg files. (thats the error I'm getting if I put the image's URL in the address bar)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/articles/images/fingerandback/fig2.jpg
Quote:
Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /articles/images/fingerandback/fig2.jpg on this server.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Apache/1.3.26 Server at www.rockclimbing.com Port 80
Just wait a bit, I bet the Op's will get to fixin it when they have a sec.
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campus
Oct 9, 2002, 3:57 AM
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Thanks for this great article, is very easy to read and understand, should be put it in a magazine.
A cuestion, how could a one arm pull up improve your climbing?(i believe if some one can do a one arm pullup is a very very strong person, but some people here in my country believes is useless) or in wich ways a one arm pull up improve your climbing?
congrats to the person how wrote this article.( i canīt see the pics, what can i do i really want to see the pics?)
Great work man.
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greatgarbanzo
Oct 16, 2002, 5:51 PM
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O.K. Campus:
A one arm pull up will help you a lot if you like to climb on overhangs with long moves...
I have stablish a couple of boulder problems on which a 1 arm P.U. is mandatory... if you cant you wont be able to do the move... and I am not talking about "this hold is on and this one is off" stuff... I am talking about straigth forward lines on overhanging boulders without holds for the feet.
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hyhuu
Oct 16, 2002, 7:16 PM
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You are joking right? Or else, I guess Dave Graham is out of luck on your problems because he wouldn't be able to do a one-arm pullup if his life depends on it. They would prob be V16+ for him.
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greatgarbanzo
Dec 25, 2002, 5:55 PM
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Regarding above:
Well..l I have though a lot about that myself... I think is kind of odd but it is a fact... the thing is that I AM SURE he would be able to match hands on the hold... I cant... jejeje
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crack_climber
May 5, 2003, 1:14 AM
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I enjoyed the article...and it helped a new guy like me see a way to get started on my arm and finger strength. A long way to go, but now i have a place to start...thanks...
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awaytrekking
May 8, 2003, 4:05 PM
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i can't seem to find the article in question anywhere. i tried to find the "view article this post is about" link above the first post and searched through the site to no avail. can anyone help? thanks.
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vertical_reality
May 8, 2003, 6:36 PM
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Ya, where is the article that everyone is talking about? There is no link to the artice on the thread and there is not article in the articles section.
Where can we see it?
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