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nushmutt17
Aug 10, 2012, 7:02 PM
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Is there an ideal shape of carabiner to use for those that come into contact with the climbing rope when setting TR anchors? The way I see it, pear-shaped biners would reduce the amount of wear that the friction from the rope causes. I know that just using quickdraws for bolted anchors works fine, but I've seen draws that have been SO ridiculously worn down from heavy TR usage. I'd rather have a BOMB freaking set of gear that I can set aside for consistent TR use. Any ideas?
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theextremist04
Aug 10, 2012, 7:18 PM
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nushmutt17 wrote: Is there an ideal shape of carabiner to use for those that come into contact with the climbing rope when setting TR anchors? The way I see it, pear-shaped biners would reduce the amount of wear that the friction from the rope causes. I know that just using quickdraws for bolted anchors works fine, but I've seen draws that have been SO ridiculously worn down from heavy TR usage. I'd rather have a BOMB freaking set of gear that I can set aside for consistent TR use. Any ideas?
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acorneau
Aug 10, 2012, 8:25 PM
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If you really want an dedicated, "ideal" top rope system then get yourself a shear reduction block like this:
(This post was edited by acorneau on Aug 10, 2012, 8:26 PM)
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nushmutt17
Aug 10, 2012, 8:42 PM
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okay I'm not THAT crazy about top roping... lmao but I guess that's cool. they use those in any gyms?
(This post was edited by nushmutt17 on Aug 10, 2012, 8:44 PM)
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acorneau
Aug 10, 2012, 8:48 PM
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I've seen them mostly on ropes courses and climbing towers, a few outdoor climbing areas at private summer camps, places like that.
Don't know of any gyms that use them but I wouldn't be surprised if there were a few out there that do.
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chadnsc
Aug 10, 2012, 8:59 PM
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I like to go with pear shaped locker (or two) for those hang dog top roping days.
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nushmutt17
Aug 10, 2012, 9:06 PM
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so I know the biners should be opposite and opposed, but does it make a difference whether or not the top or bottom side of the biners holds the rope? (assuming we're using high tensile cord as opposed to webbing, although iono if it even matters)
(This post was edited by nushmutt17 on Aug 10, 2012, 9:08 PM)
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chadnsc
Aug 10, 2012, 9:13 PM
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I prefer to have the narrow end connected to the anchor and the wider end to have the rope run through it.
Then again that's my option and things may be different depending on your particular setup.
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areyoumydude
Aug 10, 2012, 9:38 PM
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Steel oval locking 'biners work the best and last the longest.
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surfstar
Aug 11, 2012, 4:02 AM
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nushmutt17 wrote: I'd rather have a BOMB freaking set of gear that I can set aside for consistent TR use. Any ideas?
[as already said] Steel ovals. I use one locking, one non.
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herites
Aug 11, 2012, 7:54 AM
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Petzl steel ovals (called oxans?) dirt cheap, indestructible and heavy.
(This post was edited by herites on Aug 11, 2012, 7:55 AM)
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Kartessa
Aug 16, 2012, 2:56 PM
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GO STEEL!!!
PC++
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