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Sanguma
Feb 23, 2013, 11:56 PM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2013
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I noticed a month or two ago that someone put in bolt anchors at both the top and the mid-station of the Rib. I have mixed feelings about them. On one hand, I can't complain about somebody putting bolts in when I've used so many while climbing over the years. On the other hand, I'm upset that one of the best routes around for aspiring multi-pitch trad leaders is no longer "full trad". Yeah, you can argue that it's easy enough for someone to avoid the bolts and create their own anchors, but in reality that's not what most climbers will do. Then there's also the issue of placement. The anchors seem poorly placed to me. People are going to try to rap from one set to the other, and they're nowhere close to being in line with each other. And both put your ropes over edges, which could've been easily avoided. I'm wondering what other climbers in the Gap community think about this.
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dynobelay
Feb 24, 2013, 1:57 AM
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Too late. The plague has already spread on both sides of the Gap.
But its only bothersome to older climbers who were used to "old-fashioned" climbing. The new generation loves bolts. It likely won't be long before the Gap is fully convenience bolted like the Gunks.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 24, 2013, 2:36 AM
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dynobelay wrote: Too late. The plague has already spread on both sides of the Gap. But its only bothersome to older climbers who were used to "old-fashioned" climbing. The new generation loves bolts. It likely won't be long before the Gap is fully convenience bolted like the Gunks.
Huh?
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njrox
Feb 24, 2013, 2:07 PM
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End of 1st pitch definitely did not need bolts.
It's a popular route so I can understand bolting the end in order to save the trees, sort of like how Triumvirate is bolted. But I remember the rap tree being thick and sturdy.
I wonder if it was done by a local guide. There is one in particular I am thinking of.
Nearly all of the Gap's trad routes should remain unbolted given the amount of trees at the top off the cliffs. I am not against bolting the end of route (if it is necessary in order to descend safely) but that really only applies to heavy traffic routes where trees can become damaged, or it's a situation where you have to stop climbing before you can reach a tree to rap or top out to descend another way.
Crackpot, on the Minsi side, has a few bolts to protect the climb as well as a bolted anchor, but there are unbolted sections that take gear. Something like this (mixed trad and bolts) is understandable, but still questionable...I can't say that I don't like the bolts.
But bolting the 1st rap station on The Rib isn't right. There's PLENTY of gear placements on that ledge.
Like I said, I think it was bolted by a guide in order to make it a speedier and easier climb, as well as give a nervous client (and the leader) the opportunity to safely rap at the end of the 1st pitch.
What other routes now have bolts?
(This post was edited by njrox on Feb 24, 2013, 3:52 PM)
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Sanguma
Feb 25, 2013, 12:03 PM
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On the NJ side, Triumverate and the Rib are the only ones I can think of that have bolt anchors. On the PA side, there's Osprey, Witches, Hell and High Water, Pussytoes, Crackpot, Alley Cat, Snow White, and even the top of Surprise is sporting a new cable around the tree. Whoever put that one in did a very good job, but I'm not a fan of those things. It's too confusing to check that it's secure, especially with the sheathing people put around them. I can't think of any others off the top of my head, but I'm sure there are more. You're right, bolt anchors are nothing new to the Gap.
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njrox
Feb 25, 2013, 1:24 PM
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I know the guy who put the cable on Suprise (it was in summer 2012). He's a good guy, and the cable is bomber.
As far as I know, Osprey, Pussytoes, and Crackpot have had bolts on them for quite some time now. Crackpot's bolts (IMO) were a good addition.
Sounds like you do quite a bit of Gap climbing. I'm up there a lot too. Let me know if you want to partner up.
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Sanguma
Feb 26, 2013, 11:43 AM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2013
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You're right, the cable is certainly bomber. It's definitely weird that I feel safer seeing a half dozen slings. That thing could probably hold a Mack Truck.
Yeah, I get out to the Gap fairly frequently. I've been climbing there for about 7 years and have done about 60-70 "unique" routes. Not that I expect that to impress anybody, I just mention it to show I'm finally starting to know my way around. That doesn't mean I still don't get lost on the wandering routes though! I've still got a few of the moderate classics I haven't touched. This year I hope to get on Liquid Squeeze, Point of No Return, and Death Have No Mercy when I'm feeling stronger later in the year. I'd also like to get lowered down and try toproping some 10s.
Anyways, njrox, I sent you a pm with my contact info if you find yourself in the Gap without a partner.
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