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scott0708
Nov 29, 2007, 6:23 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2007
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Hey guys-
I just wanted to post this here to see if anyone can give me advice, comments, criticism, etc in order to improve my workout routine.
Background: I've been climbing for about four years (mostly indoors for the first three, gotten more into sport and trad outdoors this past year), though I've never had a solid training program that I've stuck with for an extended period of time (more than two weeks). Right now I would consider myself a 12a climber, having onsighted a number routes at that grade both indoors and out. I would like to work on my power and endurance, with the goal being to become a stronger sport and trad climber (I'm not too concerned with bouldering).
In order to structure a training regimen, I wrote down the following workout. I do this twice weekly (Sundays and Wednesdays) and I climb thrice weekly (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday). On Mondays and Fridays I typically do some non-climbing related exercise, such as running or biking.
So here it is:
Warmup-
15 sec hang on full-hand slopers
5 slow pullups (I try to do all my pullups as slow as possible both up and down)
Another 15 sec sloper hang
My Hangboard
STRETCH (mostly forearm and shoulders)
Set of pushups (to failure, usually 50-60)
Finger Exercises-
1.5 Pad Sloper with Thumb Locked below (basically a sloping pinch, see pic for better detail)
5 slow pullups, done twice.
Sidepull/Pinch (again, see pic) 4 pullups, done twice.
Single pad, three fingers, open hand. Hang for 10 sec, rest 10 sec, repeat 5 times.
Core Exercises-
Hang chin-up style (palms facing towards me). Raise legs, one at a time, straight out until level with head. It might be hard to picture, but just imagine a front lever with just one leg up at a time (I'm not strong enough for a full one yet). Raise each leg 10 times.
Short Rest, water
Repeat all Finger Exercises
Repeat Core Exercises
Another set of Push-ups to failure.
Warmdown (same as warmup)
Stretch
This whole session takes me about forty-five minutes, as I take short rests to stretch, shake out, and sip some water in between most of the sets. I've only been doing this for about two weeks now, so I can't really say if I've seen any improvements in my climbing from it. Basically, for me its good to just have it all written down (hanging on the wall next to the hangboard) which forces me to actually spend more time training. I've had the hangboard for a while, but without a set routine I just kinda fiddled around with whatever I wanted.
So anyways, I'd welcome any comments/critiques. What do you think of doing specific numbers (either a number of pull-ups or seconds hanging) versus simply doing each exercise to failure? Looking at the hangboard at the grips I've been using, can you suggest any other grips/holds to try?
Injury/Overtraining note: I've been climbing for a while, so I don't think that training 5 days a week it overtraining. I definitely listen to my body and know the difference between good and bad pain and will ease off if I start to feel tendon pain. I wouldn't recommend that someone new to the sport train quite so often.
Thanks,
Scott
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hopperhopper
Nov 29, 2007, 9:43 AM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2007
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what hangboard is that
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scott0708
Nov 29, 2007, 4:37 PM
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hopperhopper wrote: what hangboard is that
Thanks Microbarn for the link to your excellent post, there is a ton of good information there.
-Scott
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getsomeethics
Nov 30, 2007, 12:36 AM
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Registered: May 2, 2002
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here is what i have used. see attached file
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Attachments:
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hangboard.doc
(37.0 KB)
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erick
Nov 30, 2007, 3:15 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2005
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random -- i got the same kind of hangboard second hand this summer and have never seen another like it.
you know the three-finger horizontal and shallow slots just below the jugs? i was foolish and didn't warm up before doing pull-ups from them. popped the pulley in my left hand controlling the ring/middle fingers. Not cool. though i am not by any means a 12a climber either.
Value your warmup and don't underestimate it's benefit...
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Skuce
Jul 25, 2013, 4:50 AM
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Registered: Jul 19, 2013
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Just picked one up also off Kijiji. The thing has almost never been used from what I can tell.
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joshvillen
Jul 25, 2013, 1:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 3, 2011
Posts: 8
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What are your route goals, long p.e stuff, bouldery, or just all around? What are some of your obvious weaknesses and strengths?
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5.samadhi
Jul 27, 2013, 2:52 AM
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Registered: Jul 31, 2011
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What is the element to the training that is progressive? IE: How do you increase the work load over the course of multiple workouts? By increasing reps, time under tension, weight???
Also, I think some of your repeaters could be tightened up. It makes sense to me to do repeaters with less time hanging and much less time not hanging. Many people do 7 seconds on and 3-4 seconds off. This is supposed to simulate climbing on a route where you get brief seconds to shake out from time to time.
Personally I think the emphasis on pullups is a little overkill. How often do you have to do a pullup on a climbing route? I think instead of the training pullups you'd be better off focusing your energy into the hypertrophy phase of the hangboard and then transitioning to campusing (which in a sense is doing what you are attempting to do with the pullups but with much more specificity).
Specificity. And progressive overload. If your training are lacking these then you are not using your time valuably.
These are just my opinions though. I am no god.
(This post was edited by 5.samadhi on Jul 27, 2013, 2:54 AM)
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bentgate03
Aug 23, 2013, 2:44 PM
Post #10 of 10
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Registered: Sep 1, 2011
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Pull-ups on hangboards are bad. Ruin the elbows and the shoulders. Don't do them. Hangboards are for hanging on. Also, you seem to be all over the place with your work-out. What are you trying to achieve? What physiology are you trying to train? PE, Max Strength are probably the two that are best trained with a hangboard and you are really hitting neither with that work out.
What is your rest time between repeaters? Is it the same each time? You want to train power and endurance you say but those are pretty much two competing physiologies and as I said you are getting neither with those.
If by power you mean MaxR a campus board is your better bet. IF by power you mean Max Strength, then 10 secs hangs with max weight to fail at 10 with 4 minute rests is best.
Endurance is probably best left for your days on the rock. If you mean power endurance when you say endurance then 10 secs on 10 secs off is not optimal for either one. In the PE range would be 7/3 or 6/4/ or 10/5.
Are you tracking your time? Are your rests all the same time? Is your work-out repeatable so you can track progression?
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