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venture160
Jan 12, 2003, 6:26 PM
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What in your opinion is the best backpack for alpine climbing, something that is light, doesn't hold TOO much, or too little, and is able to strap on things like ice axes, crampons (with or without a pouch)
here are my likings:
Arc'teryx Khasmin 62, its sooo light! and gotta love that crampon pouch
The North Face Mg 45, friend has it, and it seems to be a no thrills alpine pack..... its a bit steep on the price though.
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alpinerocket
Jan 13, 2003, 1:11 AM
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Look at the Bomb Pack from Dana Design. Also I have been useing the Eiger from Marmot. It is cheap, light and carries everthing I need for an overnighter or long day. John
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gyngve
Jan 13, 2003, 1:22 AM
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I really like my Wild Things Ice Sac.
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jhump
Jan 13, 2003, 2:26 AM
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Lowe Alpine Attack 40 or 50. My 40 holds 2200 in/3 and weighs only 1.55 lbs. My 50 holds 3000 in/3 and weighs 2.5 lbs. I routinely carry loads as heavy as 40-50 lbs in these frameless packs and they are excellent for climbing hard with 20-30 lbs.
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jhattan
Jan 13, 2003, 1:47 PM
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How did you pare it down to 2.5 lbs? The lightest I've seen it listed is at 3.8 lbs.
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hallm
Jan 13, 2003, 4:00 PM
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I have the North Face MG 35, and it has served me well, even when I ended up bivying one night on a particularly troublesome descent. You have to love the built-in sleeping pad.
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jhump
Jan 13, 2003, 4:04 PM
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Cut off everything that doesnt matter, which is a lot...start with the top lid. I haven't carried a top lid on any pack for 4 years. All you need is a sack with straps.
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tim
Jan 13, 2003, 4:04 PM
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The GoLite pack of alpine size weighs about a pound. It has *nothing* extra. If I was going to replace my Savage Gear pack (which I love dearly, but which is slowly decaying under the abuse I heap on it), I think I would look into that.
My existing pack weighs 2.5 pounds. What on earth are you guys doing to your packs to make them so heavy? Cut off the useless crap, extra buckles, etc. and weigh it again!
Are there frames inside these packs of yours?
nb. The 2.5 pounds is with the folded-up blue foam pad that serves as a 'framesheet' for my pack. I think I paid $100 for this pack on sale at Climb High. It was a choice between the Wild Things sack and it, so when it went on sale, case closed. Been around the world, used the bag+bluefoam pad to bivy in April at 13000', dropped it 90', dragged it up offwidths and chimneys... Good pack.
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2003-01-13 08:15 ]
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bradhill
Jan 13, 2003, 4:27 PM
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I'd go for something with tool tubes with a snap buckle closure and external crampon patch. Makes transitions fast & convienient to always have your crampons right where you need them. On my Andanista, I can even reach back, unclip and pull out my alpine tool without taking my pack off or breaking stride.
Another feature I look for is a tall powder collar. I can pull my Granite Gear Alpine Light up to my waist and my Andanista up to my chest for an emergency bivy. It's also useful when you need to overload the pack.
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punk
Jan 13, 2003, 5:10 PM
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Packs,
Arc’teryx – Nozon
for loads above 30 but less then 45 can pare down to 1.5 lb if needed
Wild things- IceSac
about 2 lb and very good design for ice and alpine
Cold cold world - Chernobyl
great design and features ice climbing and alpine
Wild things - Andinista
wonderful pack for multi days alpine most important feature is, it can make for a summit pack in a snap (5000-1800 cui)
Cold cold world - Chaos
great all-round multi days alpine climbing pack
they all share similar features and few are unique if looking for mass production packs these are the better of the bunch
if really in to shed the papelin then Mchale packs are the top of the line and custom build to your liking
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rockprodigy
Jan 13, 2003, 6:54 PM
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First of all, if it says "North Face" anywhere on it, it is not "alpine". They care about making money, which you do by adding a bunch of stupid features you don't need.
I use a Lowe Alpine Cornice 40, which is totally kick-ass. It does have some extrta features that are useful like tool holsters and a water bladder holder, with a slit for the drinking tube. Mostly what I like about it is the waste belt isn't padded, so it doesn't interfere with your harness!
If you need a slightly bigger pack, go with the Alpine Attack 50.
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agrauch
Jan 13, 2003, 7:24 PM
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I have a McHale pack. Its more of an approach pack than a climbing pack, but I have climbed some easier mountaineering routes with it on. McHale packs are the best damn packs on the planet. Unfortunately, that kind of quality costs alot. If I had $400 to spare, I'd buy a smaller alpine pack from them in a second.
Until that time, my Wild Things Ice Sac will work. It's light, roomy, and has all the stuff you need in an alpine pack.
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clymbhigh33
Jan 13, 2003, 7:27 PM
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Wild Things Andinista!
Otherwise, if your on a budget....you can convert almost any pack to a good "Alpine" pack. Cut-off almost all the "hype" that comes on packs these days. All you need is a top loading sack to carry your stuff in, and a couple holsters for you axe's. Everything else is weight(zippers, webbing loops, exterior pockets, etc)...and should be shed by way of hot knife. I have a Kelty that I have used in the Himalays...all I did was slim it down, and cut off the little bit of overkill they have on them!
Clymb High!
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venture160
Jan 14, 2003, 4:47 AM
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hmm so i've been doing some hardcore internet research this week over packs.. right now i've come down to
Granite Gear Alpine
Cold Cold World Valdez
Mchale Pack (if i dont eat food for a few days i can save for it)
mb a MACPAC?
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elvislegs
Jan 14, 2003, 8:21 PM
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I like BD's Ice Pack. I also use the Lowe Alpine Countour MTN 40.
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jtcronk
Jan 16, 2003, 6:48 AM
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Wild Things Ice Sac is great for day tripping/one nighters. Otherwise I go for my Wild Things Andinista all the way.....
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gawd
Jan 16, 2003, 7:10 AM
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they are all the same. nylon material with a similation of a support system and some straps.
budget is the real answer and packs with extra crap on them...ie tool holsters, build in crampon pouchs all suck..less is best.
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coclimber26
Jan 18, 2003, 8:01 PM
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I'm partial to dana's. the bomb pack is good for long alpine routes but I prefer the Ice Factor. The padding unfolds and becomes a 3/4 sleeping pad...It's nice and light and has all the goodies a nice winter ruck should..
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cjain
Jan 28, 2003, 2:12 AM
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Take a look at the Serratus Icefall at www.mec.ca. I have this pack and it is great. (Note:The listed size of 3200 cu in is the unexpanded size. It expands by another 1200 cu in or so.) Also you can't beat the price.
For most trips, I prefer the Icefall to my Wild Things Icesac , mainly because the Icesac doesn't have any frame (guess I'm just a wuss :-). The Icefall has 2 very lightweight aluminium stays but they make a big difference. I also really hate the lid compartment of the Icesac.
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graniteboy
Jan 30, 2003, 5:17 AM
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Wild things Andinista, by far and away the best all around mid size alpinism pack. It's light as hell, has a bivy sleeve built in, and has a sleeping pad built in. Plus the bellows sides allow you to reduce the volume to tiny or expand it to pretty damn big. AND, last nut not least, Titoune Bouchard (queen of the wild things) will do modifications upon request. And their gear isn't made in some sweatshop in taiwan or indonesia, like all the "big name" packs.
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hugepedro
Jan 31, 2003, 9:45 PM
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I'm very happy with my North Face MG45. I bought it for winter mountaineering but I've been using it as my crag pak as well.
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rabbitprobe
Jan 31, 2003, 10:08 PM
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Almost any pack from Jack Wolfskin. This is a german company that I absolutly love. They have the best suspetion systems I have evr used to give you all day comfort. They keep the weight down and are as durable as any pack out there. You can find some REAL cheap on ebay since the name insent real well kow in the US. I persomanly use either the Headwall for fast climbs (2500 cu.in) and the trail III when I need a lot of room (5200 Cu. in.)
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superbum
Jan 31, 2003, 10:15 PM
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Hey, what about a Kelty Cloud (4500 or 6500). You gotta love the arctic GI-Joe commando white color too!
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bradhill
Jan 31, 2003, 11:23 PM
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The Cloud series is definitely awesome, but they are PRICEY. $600 for a pack is a lot of money. I don't think I know anybody who uses one who didn't get a pro deal or buy it heavily discounted on closeout. The Flight (4500) is substantially the same pack and much cheaper.
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freehueco
Feb 4, 2003, 4:46 PM
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I've been researching this one for weeks. I needed a pack in the 5000 cubic inch range, and my final choice is the GoLite Trek( 2.5 pounds). It's simple and from my experience with the Breeze, made of plenty durable materials.
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