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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 9:01 PM
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Does any one set out to climb at night? I want to do some multi pich routes on the Apron in squamish. The only climbing time I have is @ night so....
I'm worried that some one will think we are in trouble and call for help or that route finding will be hard. Any one with experiance in this area?
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mountainmonkey
Jan 16, 2003, 9:11 PM
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Route finding is difficult. Try to do a route that you are familiar with. Make sure the area is open after dark (even if it is 'wilderness', some places close after dark).
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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 9:15 PM
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I don't know if Squamish is open after dark. How can I find out?
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flying_dutchman
Jan 16, 2003, 9:17 PM
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in the summer time you could climb untill 10pm and it will still be light enough out or start at 4am as the sun comes out. I wouldn't advise night climbing on the apron; half of the routes wander quite a bit and you could get lost if you have never done the route before.
Im sure climbs like diedre have been done at night though; its been done in the rain, nude asents, probably in the snow etc and freesoled over and over by some people. In fact, night time is probaly the only time there is no lineup to do diedre.
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flying_dutchman
Jan 16, 2003, 9:19 PM
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what do you mean 'opened' rockclimbing is free, go anytime you like.
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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 9:20 PM
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I would do banana peel. I know it realy well. And its easy!!! But are people allowed to climb at night?
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sspssp
Jan 16, 2003, 9:20 PM
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I intentionally did some night climbs just to get the experience. I didn't want my first night climb to be after 12 hours of day climbing.
Start out a little easier. Do a route you are familiar with. Choose a night with good moonlight (and try to choose a route that gets direct moonlight--moon shadows are dark).
And most importantly: CARRY TWO HEADLAMPS PER CLIMBER.
I learned that last one the hard way. Twice. It sucked both times.
I liked it so well that I started occasionally doing it for fun (a great way to avoid the crowds by-the-way too.
[ This Message was edited by: sspssp on 2003-01-16 13:22 ]
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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 9:24 PM
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I'm two worried about light I have two BLT halagen lamps on my back pack straps as well as at BD moon light for every thing else and my partner has the same! Ya. 20w mountain bike lights!!!
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mountainmonkey
Jan 16, 2003, 9:30 PM
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Check to see who manages the land and contact them. Here in the states, we have some open space areas that close after dark - and you will be fined or threatened at least. heh - closed open space.
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kman
Jan 16, 2003, 9:30 PM
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Someone calling in a rescue on your behalf might just be a very good possibility since the apron is so visible from the road and all.
Climbing by headlamp rocks. Led one on gear once on a short single pitch that I know quite well. When you blow the chalk off your hands it floats around all trippy in the light of the headlamp...very surreal.
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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 9:34 PM
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Single pitch is rad!! I've done that Before!! It was probable the best climb I've ever done! Darkness adds to the fun!!! ever gone mountain biking in the dark? Thats fun.
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apollodorus
Jan 16, 2003, 9:45 PM
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Go out on a full moon night that's clear, and you won't need to use your headlamp. Well, maybe for placing pro you would.
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djmeat
Jan 16, 2003, 9:46 PM
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I go biuldering in the dark. just picked this little bad boy up last night for taht very purpose.
it rawks!!! light as can be and blinding bright and 70 freakin hours of usable light on 3 AAA batteries.
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tanner
Jan 16, 2003, 9:47 PM
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Ya, BD moon Light!! Got one and Love it!!
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peas
Jan 16, 2003, 9:58 PM
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So far as I know, there are no climbing restrictions on the Chief related to what time of day you climb.
I climbed Diedre last summer solstice, and it was awesome. The only time I've done Diedre and it was really fun. The moon was pretty full and I found that I didn't need a headlamp when seconding. Since it was the solstice, we weren't in darkness for long.
More recently I did the last half of the ultimate everything in the dark on Nov 1. That was fun too. Definately needed headlamps. My lamp ran out of batteries at the top, so the walk off was trecherous.
So I'd say go for it. Climbing in the dark is a blast. I'd stay well within your limits though. Have fun!
B
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sunsation
Jan 16, 2003, 10:01 PM
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Last fall we ended up doing the last last few pitches of Diedre in the fading daylight. The sunset was spectacular! Getting to the forested trail down (along Broadway) is where you have to be most careful as you are walking unroped along some pretty exposed parts. If you are concerned about someone calling SAR when they see headlamps on the Apron, just leave a big note on your dash. Odds are your car will be the only one in the lot. People do climb there at night sometimes though so you should be all good. I would suggest you let someone know exactly where you'll be and what time to expect your phone call that you made it out ok. Oh, and I second the climbing with a full moon post!
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wallrat
Jan 16, 2003, 10:24 PM
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Joshua Tree on a full moon night...doesn't get much better than that! There's plenty of light to climb by.
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mreardon
Jan 16, 2003, 10:38 PM
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Climbing in the dark has a long tradition with me and the folks I climb with. Did a four pitch crack in the Needles, and can't count how many routes or times at Joshua Tree. But using the headlamp is definitely cheating. If you have the light, might as well wait for the daytime.
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jerrygarcia
Jan 16, 2003, 10:46 PM
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I have no problem climbing at night, in fact I enjoy it(friends think im weird). I am also an avid caver so that has made it much easier to get into.
vertical caving = rap/asscend in caves.
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womble
Jan 16, 2003, 10:46 PM
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I've only tried nightclimbing once, in Australia. Once we discovered that the warm rocks attracted all the snakes, we gave up on the idea...
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pancaketom
Jan 16, 2003, 11:28 PM
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Trying to find bolts on runout slab climbing at night can be a bit exciting. Stick to closely bolted routes or even better obvious crack lines. Full moon is great, but headlamps work too. The descent for multi-pitches could very well be the crux.
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grundleson
Jan 17, 2003, 12:57 AM
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i love climbing at night. never gotten past a 11a though on a lead. its just a little too strange climbing at night with your buddy thats never done any climbing... lead belaying you. ha. i need a climbing partner.
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knuckles
Jan 17, 2003, 1:09 AM
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I'm kind of an insomniac. It's at it's worst in the summer and on full moon nights. I climb and surf a lot by moonlight and you can't beat the felling of stillness and tranquility. Be aware that what you are thinking of doing makes no sense whatsoever to the average Joe and they may call in a rescue on your behalf. It might be a good idea to let the authorities know if you want to use the lights...
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paradoxcow
Jan 30, 2003, 8:57 PM
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I did Montezuma's Tower (Garden of the Gods, CO) in full moonlight. Worth getting in trouble after the rap.
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rprp
Jan 31, 2003, 1:25 AM
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Geez, you guys are letting my secret for beating crowds out of the bag. Go back to that idea of night climbing being illegal...
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