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jakeh76
Jan 22, 2003, 1:31 PM
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Anyone have any beta on the 5.0-5.2 climbs at seneca? I'm taking my gf this spring and would like to take her on something in that range. Thanks.
[ This Message was edited by: pushtheextreme on 2003-01-24 19:57 ]
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traddaddy
Jan 22, 2003, 2:19 PM
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Take her up Old Ladies Route, I think it goes 5.3
Easy climbing, great exposure, lots o fun.
I think the cooles part of the climb is downclimbing to the traverse on the 2nd pitch where you go from the west to the east face.
If you go on a weekend, you'll probably be waiting in line though.
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repete
Jan 22, 2003, 2:33 PM
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If you do old ladies make sure you have a guide book and bring it along with you. That route winds around and if the person you are going with can only do 5.3 then you realy want to stay on route.
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climbingbetty22
Jan 22, 2003, 2:53 PM
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I think there is an Old Man's Route too that is pretty easy, but I'm not sure what it is rated off the top of my head. ALthough I know that some of the guides take their clients up it for their first real "multi-pitch" experience. Tony Barnes is the author of the guidebook of the area, so check in his book, but if you can hold off don't buy it. The old one is kind of bad and alot of climber's complain about it. He told me this fall that he will be coming out with a new edition that will be easier to use anytime now, so if you can, I'd wait and buy that one.
~Betty
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erclimb
Jan 22, 2003, 3:05 PM
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Humphrey's Head is a fun single pitch right next to the start of Old Ladies. The first pitch of Totem (5.11) is rated 5.4 and is a good intro to Seneca climbing--a little exposed but straight forward and easy to protect...and bolts to set up a toprope. The first pitch of Skyline Traverse goes 5.3 (take big gear); the first pitch of Le Gourmet is 5.4 but not very hard (you'll need a 60m rope to rap from the first belay or do the short 5.6 called Front C and finish on Old Man's...btw, it's easy to get off route on Old Man's--nothing terrible but could be a little harrowing for a beginner); Ecstasy Junior goes 5.4/5.5 (the first pitch has a traverse and the second pitch is a little intimidating). You'll find all the routes a little sandbagged.
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jeepmonkey
Jan 22, 2003, 3:16 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Regional Discussions forum by jeepmonkey[/small]
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charley
Jan 23, 2003, 12:28 AM
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There are 7 5.0's. Worrell's thicket is easy and blocky. It uses every bit of a 50 meter rope. The brush has been trimmed a couple times in the last couple years. Oh pooh(5.1), Pooh's corner(5.1),christopher robin(5.2), and heffalump trap direct(5.2) are all nice short climbs on the north peak east face. If you do worrell's and follow the ledge to the left you will be near humprey's head which has a 5.2 on the right side. This is a nice place to get used to the exposure and a top rope can be set up off shuts that some harder things can be done from. Old mans and old ladies are both 5.2. Old ladies is a nice easy climb with a traverse with a hairy (for beginners) down step at the start of second pitch. Make sure you continue way right at the end of last pitch. Old mans has a really long traverse that makes it seem to wander alot. But you can do the first pitch of old mans then continue to the summit on conn's west(5.3). Any questions pm me.
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krakhedd
Jan 23, 2003, 1:44 AM
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if you want a guidebook, get eric horst's west virginia, virginia, and maryland guidebook. the problem with the current guidebook is that the pics of the routes are too dark and the route descriptions are very confusing. don't get me wrong, i respect him for taking the time to make a guidebook happen. i just find it confusing, as i have heard from many others. eric's book has better pics and is overall more user friendly. you also get a guide to three whole states. the downside is that not every route at each area is included, although, the routes included are the more classic routes. i'll be taking my girlfriend there this spring too, so maybe we could hook up and climb together. if your girl is anything like mine, she would be more comfortable with another girl climber in the group. i could show you guys around since we'll be climbing the same grades. if not get eric's book like i said. you'll have a better experience. let me know if you want to try to meet there sometime.
d
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jakeh76
Jan 23, 2003, 12:34 PM
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Thanks for the beta everyone. I'm going to go down this spring, prob when its still cold to scout out these routes. I've done most of the 5.4-5.7's, but haven't done any in this range. I thought I should know where I'm going so she doesn't think I don't know what I'm doing. Thanks.
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