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beyond_gravity


Jan 25, 2003, 7:09 PM
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rckclimbergurl and I got some cams yesterday.

We got Wildcountry Forged Friends #2.5, 3.0 and 3.5.

However, on sizes smaller then 2, i'm sorta wondering if I should go with DMM 3 CU's because they have flexable stems.

What do you guys think?


Partner camhead


Jan 25, 2003, 7:18 PM
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dude, Jereemy, good call on the Wild Countries. They're good gear. Do your really mean that you want TCUs for everything smaller than 2.5? Are you serious? Don't do it. If you want to stick cheap, go with some clog cams (I think that www.rei-outlet.com has them). They have the same sizing as Wild Country. Get them at least down to #1 size.

cheers,
Paul


beyond_gravity


Jan 25, 2003, 7:40 PM
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No, i'm talking about getting a Solid Steam #2, then TCU's in 1.75 and under.


duskerhu


Jan 26, 2003, 1:51 AM
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b-g, the thing you can't do with Forged Friends is put them in horizontal placements where the stem would be weighted over an edge. You'll need flexible stem cams for that type of placement or wired nuts, hexes, or tri-cams.

WC Tech Friends have flex stems and are great in the larger sizes (I haven't used/seen the smaller ones) or there are many other choices for flexible stems...

duskerhu


valygrl


Jan 26, 2003, 2:28 AM
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The really bad thing about those rigid stem friends in the small sizes is that as the retracted cam size approaches the stem size, they become harder and harder to clean. the #1 loves to get stuck. I don't know about the 1.5 and 2, but I would think they might be subject to the same problem.

And before you get the TCUs try to afford Aliens. Aliens are the best in the smaller sizes. Yellow Alien is especially tasty.

Happy shopping!


beyond_gravity


Jan 26, 2003, 6:02 AM
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Ya, thats the reason i'm thinking of getting wired steams in the smaller sizes. Most Wide horizonals i've seen are pretty deep, so I don't know how often i'd have to tie off.

Any word on the Forged Friend #2?

The problem with the Aliens is that the #3 is the same size as DMM and Clog #1...and most cracks i've seen would take a nut when that small.

I really don't have a lot of money to spend here. I basicly just wanted the cams so I found lead hand cracks and have something to throw in when I get really pumped.

I think i'm going to get a Dmm 4Cu #2, then the 3Cu's in #1 and #1.5


apollodorus


Jan 26, 2003, 6:11 AM
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Nice range selection on those Friends.

Get some perlon that will barely fit through the hole between the trigger bar slot and the cam axle, and tie a loop (double fisherman's) there that reaches about 2 or 3 inches past the bottom of the stem. That way, you can use them in horizontal cracks that would otherwise break the stem. You clip into the perlon loop, not the one in the stem, in such instances.

The HB/Clog pieces are WAY better than the TCUs. So are the small BDs and WC techies. Once you get below to about 3/4", the best are the Aliens.


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