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climbingjunky
Feb 5, 2003, 5:13 AM
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I've heard there's different ways one can place his/her fingers on a particular hold, like overlapping fingers? Does anyone havea clue what I'm talking about, because I don't.
-Indy
[ This Message was edited by: indy on 2003-02-04 21:13 ]
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apollodorus
Feb 5, 2003, 5:23 AM
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You adapt your hands to the crack, depending on what it looks like.
Thin fingers is usually done by turning the thumb down to get some camming action.
Crossing your ring finger over your index and sticking them in with your thumb down is a SOP fingerlock.
Wider than that, and you can usually get your hand in, either thumb down (narrower) or thumb up (wider).
Sticking the thumb in as a shim works for all of the above if they are a bit wider than fingers only.
The human hand has a wider range than any piece of metallic pro could ever hope to have.
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calpolyclimber
Feb 5, 2003, 7:16 AM
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There are an infinite number of finger configurations. I usually just shove as much finger in as possible, and then rotate my wrist for camming action. Sometimes thumb up works, sometimes thumb down works. Sometimes you can cross your fingers in different ways to make a different size, or to get them to stick better.
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pushfurther
Feb 5, 2003, 8:15 AM
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heh. cracks.. sad.
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beercanclimber
Feb 5, 2003, 8:27 AM
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i really don't have an answer to this question, but i'm just disagreeing with calpoly. i'm sure there are a great variety of positions, but saying there are an infinite number is probably a bit of an exaggeration.
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canrocker
Feb 5, 2003, 11:49 AM
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There's probably an infinite number of finger positions and combos and my brain stalled while I was trying to think of 'em all, so my suggestion is to use your teeth!
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dbrayack
Feb 5, 2003, 11:52 AM
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It depends on the girl...er I mean crack
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josephine
Feb 5, 2003, 12:36 PM
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I know five.The crimp,the hang,sloper(when the hand is open),the pinches and combination holds[I mean that you can use a combination of fingers position].
But of course it depends on the crack.
Penny
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redpoint73
Feb 5, 2003, 2:01 PM
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Whats "the hang"?
There are a great many positions, and each one uses your forearm muscles in subtley different ways. Thats why training by climbing is more effective than hangboards, pullups, etc. And thats why those handgrip strengthener devices don't work.
Even just one type of hold, such as the open hand grip, think of the variation on how your fingers are spread, or which ones are utilized more than others on a particular hold: all fingers spread, middle 2 fingers together, monos, all fingers together.
Josephine named some of the different holds, others include the gaston, undercling, sidepull, pockets (which may sometimes be a variation of crimp or pinch).
In reference to indy's original question about overlapping or stacking fingers, sometimes it is advantageous to stack your thumb over your forefinger on a crimp (not everyone does this, but some people really like it). Also, in very isolated situations, it is sometimes helpful to stack fingers over each other (probably in combination with the thumb stack) on very tiny holds - such as a hold where only 1 finger will actualy fit. This is to increase holding power over just using just using 1 finger. You have to be climbing something pretty advanced to need this particular hold, though.
As mentioned above, fingers are sometimes stacked in small finger cracks. The goal in is case to use whatever hand position neccessary to make the jam as secure as possible.
Can anyone think if other cases of finger stacks?
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josephine
Feb 5, 2003, 8:00 PM
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Hang[method for using pockets],is the passive finger strength.The finger tendons remain straight and the load is simply transferred through them.I don't know how i can describe it.
Penny
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calpolyclimber
Feb 5, 2003, 8:35 PM
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Beercanclimber- I was not realy implying that there are infinately many actual methods, more that every crack will accept your fingers in a SLIGHTLY different way. I guess I wasn't clear on that.
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cliffhanger9
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Feb 5, 2003, 10:58 PM
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yeah pretty sure i know what ur talkin about...
the previous ppl did a pretty good job of explaining but if ur like me, a visual learner, check out this illustration(should open in a new window) from Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills...highly recommend this book if dont already have it
http://www.angelfire.com/...llard/imgs/grips.jpg
hope this helps!!
good lucky and ROCK ON!!
[ This Message was edited by: cliffhanger9 on 2003-02-05 15:00 ]
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climbingjunky
Feb 6, 2003, 1:34 AM
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Yes that's exactly what I meant. Awesome. Thanks for the link!
[ This Message was edited by: indy on 2003-02-05 17:35 ]
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mhr2000
Feb 6, 2003, 4:18 PM
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http://www.uoregon.edu/~opp/climbing/crackclimbing.htm
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mcfoley
Feb 6, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Here is the best one...bend your index, pinky, and ring finger about half way. Point your thumb out to the side. and point your middle finger up...there you go!!!
just kidding...get the book "how to rock climb".
mf
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reborne
Feb 6, 2003, 7:27 PM
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now that you have some idea what the finger positions are you might want to read this to get a good idea how to get strong at a variety of them
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/html/training/strength.shtml
and check out the "HIT" training link
[ This Message was edited by: reborne on 2003-02-06 11:29 ]
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brad
Feb 6, 2003, 8:30 PM
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>Can anyone think of other cases of finger stacks?
I have occasionally stacked fingers in pockets, to turn a mono into a bi. Usually the pocket isn't big enough, tho.
[ This Message was edited by: brad on 2003-02-06 12:31 ]
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crack_head
Feb 6, 2003, 8:51 PM
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yeah there are tons of ways to jam your fingers. check out those sites or go to your bookstore and get a climbing book
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