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dunnbar
Feb 8, 2003, 1:30 AM
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Sorry, rhyming four with for was pretty cheesy... but anyways, I've seen pictures of people doing figure fours, and it looks like they just put themselve in a huge mess. Whats the point, and how do they work?
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curt
Feb 8, 2003, 1:47 AM
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The figure 4 allows a climber to statically reach a hold far above, even if there are no footholds avialable to stand up on. The alternative is often a dynamic move--which is fine if the target hold above is large, but often ineffective if the target hold needs to be reached statically in order to position the hand precisely.
The biggest downside of the figure 4 (particularly if bouldering) is that a fall will likely be somewhat out of control and will almost always result in a fall that is not "feet first" in landing. This move also requires a bit of flexibility to both get into--and get out of, after reaching the target hold.
Curt
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twospoons
Feb 8, 2003, 1:47 AM
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Not that i've ever done one, but its sposed to be an effective move for making long reaches on steep rock (if i'm not mistaken?)
By putting one leg over your arm (which remains on the hold) you can use that leg to push down on your arm which "should" let you reach higher with your free arm.
sorry if that sounds confusing..
just wait for one of the experts to make a sensical reply
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overlord
Feb 10, 2003, 12:36 PM
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oh, you need one good hold to do it from.
CLIMB ON
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gravical
Feb 10, 2003, 2:19 PM
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Comes in handy everyday! (Ask any short person!!)
Remember to put the right foot over left arm (Or left over right) - I struggled for months due to stupidity!
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rockjock04
Feb 10, 2003, 3:07 PM
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Try this link to explain it.
I just hear of this for the first time myself. I think I will use it. I am very short
http://web.outsideonline.com/magazine/0799/9907twist.html
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pywiak
Feb 10, 2003, 3:36 PM
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It is key beta for the crux of "When You're A Jet" in Joshua Tree.
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lox
Feb 10, 2003, 4:53 PM
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Quote:oh, you need one good hold to do it from.
lol.
The end of this problem involved figure fouring for 2 consecutive moves off really bad 2 finger half pad sharpie pockets.
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rprp
Feb 10, 2003, 4:56 PM
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I hear ice climbers talk about it, but I've never seen anyone do one on rock. Nobody I know has ever trained the move, so I doubt that they would be good at it even if they needed one for some reason.
Makes for a cool photo though.
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pbjosh
Feb 10, 2003, 5:23 PM
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I agree it's way more useful for ice/mixed climbing. Gaining some hanging ice can either be done by locking off the arm and delicately picking your next placement while your one-arm-lockoff-clock counts down (mine starts at 0, so that's not an option) or by figure-fouring. Also very useful for steep mixed terrain.
josh
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ikefromla
Feb 12, 2003, 4:21 AM
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AH, the figure four..i've used it. and i've trained to be able to do it.. for the sake of being able to.. it is much more energy efficient than a long dyno of the hand hold you're moving off of is any good.
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mreardon
Feb 12, 2003, 11:04 PM
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I trained for it, finally did it. Got good at it. And 10 years later am waiting for the opportunity to actually use it. Other than ice-climbers, I've never actually heard of a climb where it was needed (I like the pics Lox, but it might be better to show us the F4 in use). So far, I've personally only used it in bars for beer and to impress friends at parties. Oh yeah, and once in the bedroom but that was because....
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scottharms
Feb 12, 2003, 11:31 PM
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I've tried it a number of times for fun in the gym, there was one route with a 4ft overhang that I used it on cause there were no foot placements. Once you've done that now try it on ice, I just started doing them on ice and it's a whole different story when your weilding crampons over your arms. Now try undoing it without shredding your jacket. I'll post a shot of me trying one, look in the route data base in canada,alberta,lethbridge,jensens resevoir in a day as I'll post it tonight, i was trying it for the heck of it. Cheers
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waggas
Feb 12, 2003, 11:45 PM
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Here's a great photo posted by someone o nthis sight, showing a F4 in use.... and on real rock too!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=10311
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womble
Feb 12, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Only time I've ever used it was to show off in the gym I've never seen it used for any other reason, and never seen it used outdoors. Given a single good hold, I'd rather dyno for a long reach, even if going for a marginal hold above...
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scottharms
Feb 13, 2003, 4:51 PM
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here is the photo that I spoke of above
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=11222
Cheers
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climbincajun
Feb 13, 2003, 5:36 PM
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figure four? huh...Good gawd yall
what is it good for?
absolutely NOTHING!!!
say it again...
(sorry...couldn't resist!)
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curt
Feb 14, 2003, 7:42 AM
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One application of the figure 4 in real life is doing the final move to the lip of the 45 degree wall at Hueco Tanks--statically.
Unfortunately, that wall is closed to climbing now--probably forever--so you may feel free to disregard this post.
Curt
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climbnow1
Feb 14, 2003, 11:34 AM
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I think itīs also called a yaniro ... and thats because he seemed to have invented it to be able to doing the crux "dyno" of "Chouca" in Buoux, France.
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esskay33
Feb 14, 2003, 11:50 AM
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Pretty sure I saw Lisa Rands do it in Bishop, right after my buddy greeted her with a "holy Sh*t, it Lisa Rands." Hillarious.
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lox
Feb 14, 2003, 3:48 PM
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Quote:(I like the pics Lox, but it might be better to show us the F4 in use.)
Oh yeah...
I called my buddy and was like, hey... were you planning on, like...
Repeating that v13 testpiece of yours anytime soon ?
He said no.
Besides, even if I showed you a photo of the figure 4 and a photo of the hold he was doing it off of, you wouldn't believe it. It's effin' SICK. Hardest established limestone bolder problem in Central Texas.
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aussierookie
Mar 5, 2003, 4:31 AM
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I actually find figure 4 is kinda useful on rooves (mainly indoor comps) when the footholds kinda suck. It also seems to hold you in position better for some reason.
I'll always look for a dyno before a F4 anyday. I think sticking a big dyno looks cooler than a F4 anyway......
-JK
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knuckles
Mar 6, 2003, 9:28 AM
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I can see where it would have some use outside, but I've really only done it when goofing off. It also has the nasty effect of straining the bejeezus out of the fingers on the low hand. However, you can play "betcha 5 bucks I can reach that hold without dynoing" in the gym for burrito money.
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superbum
Mar 25, 2003, 10:53 PM
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GO TO www.climbxmedia.com AND CLICK ON MARCH 21 ON THE CALANDER. LOOK AT STEVEN JEFFERY'S VIDEO AND YOU WILL SEE THE FIGURE FOUR IN PERFECT ACTION!!!
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