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climbin_moo
Feb 13, 2003, 6:11 AM
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This question is directed at people who have substantial injuries, not minor sprains & pains.
What extra things do you do to accommodate your injuries while climbing and training? Do you have any training strategies that help you?
I personally have a PCL reconstruction (left knee) and some broken & stretched tendons in my wrist, from street skating.
I usually lift weights to keep my quad muscle mass up, which tightens up my knee joint somewhat. Recently I have been climbing 2-3days /week. After pushing myself hard two days in a row outside on some crack, my knee is _really_ sore. I’ve found that training slopers will hurt my injured wrist. So I’ll only do sloper-filled boldering problems once every two weeks. I am also cutting back to climbing 2x/wk.
I have a DonJoy pcl/mcl/lcl brace that I’m considering wearing during climbing. How many people climb with such a brace on? Does it get all scratched up? When you guys are training hard, how many days to you take to rest?
-moo
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asaph
Feb 13, 2003, 6:31 AM
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Actually I just injured some tendons in both knees! Sucks hard since I was supposedly going to go to JTree soon. Basically what I'm doing so far is staying off of them as much as possible... no stairs, no climbing no jumping or running either. I'm going to see a doctor soon too since it really hurts to bend em... I guess my best advice is to pamper your injuries and pray they go away quickly!
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kalcario
Feb 13, 2003, 6:32 AM
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Looked at your profile, you're only 22 and you're this messed up?
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climbin_moo
Feb 13, 2003, 6:36 AM
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heh... yeah.
I was a hardcore street skater. Go big or go home... or whatever. So now my advice to the young skaters out there is: everything in moderation. You dont have to take 12ft gaps, or misty stairwells to have fun. You'll end up skating longer with less injuries. I can't even skate anymore. This is why I picked up climbing again, it's a nice slow safe sport
-moo
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watersprite
Feb 13, 2003, 5:50 PM
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I have carpal tunnel in both wrists, and I climb with a brace on the left one, it's the weaker one. I've had operations on both wrists and both thumbs. Have a bad big toe, too, but climbing doesn't bother it, like high heels do.
I don't do the hard crimping holds. Try to use the larger holds - w/flat palms. don't overtrain. Your muscles will get strong before your tendons - it may take up to a year for tendon strength, so be patient.
If your wrists hurt after a workout use ice for 20 min, Advil, then rest, use a brace at night to keep it straight.
I've started playing piano to strengthen the finger tendons, wear both braces at night and take Advil (a lot). you can get a prescription for Celebrex, it's like advil but you take it every day and it won't hurt your stomach like ibuprofen may.
[ This Message was edited by: watersprite on 2003-02-13 09:51 ]
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rockpossum
Feb 13, 2003, 6:46 PM
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Go big or go home, yeah I remember that.
Rebuilt ACL, MCL and medial meniscus, left knee (if I focus I can feel it throb right now), not so serious cartilage damage right knee. Seperated shoulder, clavicle held together with steel plate. Dislocated jaw (THAT was distressing). Skin grafts and tendon graft left hand (you hardly notice). Cracked lumbar vertebrae with sheared spinous process (low enough on the spinal cord there was only potential threat to bladder control, very alarming). Broken or dislocated ribs broken/dislocated fingers. They get less memorable after that. My favorite has to be the distended thumb, compressed like a telescope with peculiar auto-rotational movement (shock your friends!).
Sounds like one bad car wreck but it was cumulative damage from seven years of football. Mama's don't let your babies grow up to be...
Point is now that I'm 40 I have to manage all these pointless injuries like a hobby. I have osteoarthritis in my knee already (didn't expect it till 50 but here it is).
Not looking for sympathy, just an example of what not to do in your twenties if you plan on doing anything beyond your forties.
ciao,
Mike
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bakedjake
Feb 13, 2003, 6:54 PM
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My right knee was damaged in a landslide and I sliced the left one up with a chainsaw. I just limp and bear the pain.
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bakedjake
Feb 13, 2003, 6:55 PM
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My right knee was damaged in a landslide and I sliced the left one up with a chainsaw. I just limp and bear the pain.
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bontrager
Feb 13, 2003, 7:03 PM
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I have had two scopes, one on each knee and a seperated shoulder . Biking helps the legs keep tight and with endurance for staying on the rock. Orthotics keep the knee healthy wwhen doing every day things. Lots of streching and warm-up is needed to keep the joints good along with Water. When the going gets rough though Vioxx is the ticket.
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rockpossum
Feb 13, 2003, 7:05 PM
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Oh yeah the question...
Because of this I'm a lifetime physio/weight slave, constant flexibility workouts etc. Have a brace don't use it too clunky. I'm sure it affects my climbing, range of motion limitations in knee and shoulder. With all the weight training though I have power/strength to burn, more endurance than most half my age etc.
Since I don't have any experience to compare with I'm still pretty happy with my abilities.
Mike
Hey Bontrager;
Fellow gear head roadie over here. Wished that I'd stuck with road racing as a kid. I think I could still be pushing Zabel or Cipollini right now. Let me have my dream.
[ This Message was edited by: rockpossum on 2003-02-13 11:12 ]
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katydid
Feb 13, 2003, 7:14 PM
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No cartilege in left knee, courtesy of a combination of prior injuries and a crappy HMO when I was living in the States.
I'm slower than slow on approaches. I could go flying on ahead, but by the time I'm ready to climb I'm going to be hurting bad if I don't take it easy. If people don't want to stick with me, I'll find someone else to come in/out with (I also have no sense of direction, which has nothing to do with injury...I think).
I also make sure I have ibuprofen with me, and my knee brace. Ibuprofen regularly, whether I think I need it or not, seems to be the biggest help.
As far as the actual climbing, I make sure that my knee is lined up with my toes (as opposed to rotated to the outside or inside of it) whenever I'm turning out. If this means limiting your turnout, limit it.
Dunno why, but if I carry my knee brace with me, I don't seem to need it. If I leave it at home, I'm in pain the whole day.
Kate
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rockpossum
Feb 13, 2003, 7:19 PM
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Good point katydid;
My only real problems are approaches too. Lots of talus today means lots of pain tomorrow.
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polarwid
Feb 13, 2003, 7:20 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Injuries & Accidents forum by polarwid[/small]
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bontrager
Feb 13, 2003, 7:26 PM
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Rockpossum,
Have your dream! Having seen those guys they are super fast at the end.
I have also found that rowing (like crewing) is great for climbing and my injuries. If you can find an erg (indoor rowing machine) and use it you will find that your ability to push off of your legs is greatly improved. Especially since it is non-weight bearing and incorporates full range of leg and arm motion along with coordination. Considering I push 240lbs up, my knees and hands can use all the help they can get.
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bigsauce
Feb 13, 2003, 7:37 PM
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I've got both a messed up wrist and have busted up both knees. for the wrist I've found that a simple tape job does the trick. I just wrap sports tape around my wrist 2 1/2 times. this keeps the tendons in line. I cant climb anymore if i dont do this because my hand seperates from my wrist. As for the knees, stretch, stretch, stretch! Also, the stronger you make your quads and hip muscles, the better off you will be. try doing leg lifts on your side.
good luck!
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scrappydoo
Feb 13, 2003, 7:39 PM
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Fellow contributer of funds to "orthopedic surgeons for second homes and plush retirements."
After 5 surgeries on my right knee, I have to climb with a brace all the time (donjoy: solid brace, hinged joints). Not too many issues with it but there are a few. Be careful of off-widths; my brace got stuck in one last time I was at Moab. Also, knee jams don't work; your leg cant contact the rock to produce enough friction. Between the rock and the brace, pantlegs don't have a chance. I have to wear double-knee carhartts when its colder.
As for wrists, I have experience there too (seperated/tore 5 tendons and fractured carpal bone). I had to get my grip strength up (a hangboard really helped) before I could really pull on holds or do any kind of jamming. Fewer problems now but jamming is impossible when it acts up and I have to take a day or two off and lotsa lotsa advil.
Whoever said it previously nailed it: "Gooooooo VIOXX!"
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cookiecrumb
Feb 14, 2003, 12:54 AM
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are most of these climbing injuries ??
i thought i was the only one hurting. any thoughts on how to avoid these injuries.
dave
[ This Message was edited by: cookiecrumb on 2003-02-13 16:55 ]
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aimeerose
Feb 14, 2003, 8:34 PM
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Don't forget about your hamstrings too. Especially with a PCL reconstruction you need dynamic support in the back.
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scrappydoo
Feb 14, 2003, 8:38 PM
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=============================================
i thought i was the only one hurting. any thoughts on how to avoid these injuries.
dave
=============================================
Yeah, don't pole vault.
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whitefingers
Feb 23, 2003, 7:37 PM
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I had my ACL reconstruction 8 years ago from "go big or go home" snow skiing accident. Bought an $1100 Bregg knee brace and messed it up pretty good climbing with it. After climbing without it, my knee is stronger and happier than ever. I feel that climbing has strengthened all this little muscles i need and made it better :D
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msecoda
Feb 24, 2003, 9:59 PM
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I never skated but I did play football in high school and college. And I have numerous naggin injuries but two major ones. Two herniated discs in my lumbar and my left knee has had a ACL reconstruction twice.
My knee still gets sore if I "overdue" it but for the most part it feels better When I am working out or climbing than when I am not.
In other words; If I take a layoff from the gym, or if I am too sedintary during the winter my knee will start acting up. If I stay active and go to the gym, My knee is all good.
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spyder
Feb 24, 2003, 10:43 PM
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"This is why I picked up climbing again, it's a nice slow safe sport" -climbing_moo Nice slow safe sport? Hardly, if you're serious. A kid of my team was in a wheel chair after falling on his back bouldering... okay. Anyway, last year I hurt my knee figure skating, and then kept climbing on it. I mostly just went easy on it, stretched pretty well whenever I was gonna climb or really use my knee. Eventually I took it and got it checked at a physical ummmm... I'm suddenly at a loss for that word. You can figure it out. They gave me some annoying exersizes and a brace... And now it's pretty good again. Oh and constant ibprofen.
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wildtrail
Feb 24, 2003, 11:13 PM
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Can't really help you. I do have a bad knee injury, but it isn't a recent one. I think it's just years of abuse. I used to race (skiing) and sustained an injury to the same knee in football that I never had looked at. Then several falls while climbing, cause I'm a big fat guy that falls a lot, in which I "bashed" my knee into the rock. I think it finally said, "no more". It grinds now and a simple hike can be painful. Seeing an arthroscopic surgeon this Friday about it because I'll be damned if I'm losing another year climbing!
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climbin_moo
Feb 24, 2003, 11:55 PM
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In reply to: "This is why I picked up climbing again, it's a nice slow safe sport" -climbing_moo Nice slow safe sport? Hardly, if you're serious. A kid of my team was in a wheel chair after falling on his back bouldering... *snip*
This is why I don’t highball. I boulder in the gym at my university. I mostly do roped climbing outdoors. You don't have to boulder or free solo to be a serious climber. All you have to do is keep climbing and train.
Even though there are fast moving aspects to climbing like dynos, most of the time you are moving slowly in a controlled manor. Even in dynos I take a few seconds to make sure I have got my path and actions visualized. What I meant by safe and slow was: it is relatively safe, so much so that if you follow all the safety precautions you can keep climbing even into old age. Climbing _is_ slow compared to other sports like soccer, basket ball, skating. You don’t have to make split second decisions or cutting/break movements to fake someone out. Any quick movements in (my) climbing are well planned. This to me is part of the unique fun of climbing.
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lapistolle
Feb 27, 2003, 4:19 PM
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i'm a feldenkrais practitioner...do lots of feldy for my stuff. Also dance and play conga (great oppositional for those wristies).
previous injuries: compression spinal fracture 2x, L knee surgery, numerous sprained ankles, wrist/shoulder problems that required steroid injections (this was all before Feldy). They told me I'd never dance again. Now I'm artistic director, chief choreographer and performer of my own dance company and doing things I couldn't 10 years ago. With less pain.
I'm 34 YO. Started climbing a few months ago. One injury so far totally due to stupidity, other than that no problems yet...
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