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mcfoley
Feb 14, 2003, 7:25 PM
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What is the sketchiest TR anchor you have ever witnessed ???
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tucsonalex
Feb 14, 2003, 7:28 PM
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One piece of webbing slung around a block and the rope running through the webbing. How could anyone not know how dangerous that is?
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mikedano
Feb 14, 2003, 7:28 PM
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When I was very first getting started in climbing outside, I set up an anchor using a dead fallen log near the edge of the cliff.
In my defense it was sort of braced up against stuff. And the cliff was only like 25 ft high. And I was retarded, in the head.
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mattiem
Feb 14, 2003, 7:47 PM
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i once saw an 3 point anchor at quincy quarries, one was a tree, and i mean that in the loosest sense of the word, more like rotten twig, one was a small #1 or #2 nut under a rock that was small enough to lift up with you hands, and the other was a huge 6 inch thick iron spike. If it wasnt for the spike it would have been the skecthiest anchor ever. 3
I also saw an anchor with three identical sized cams lined one behind the other in the same crack on a sliding x, that was a little skecth too.
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petsfed
Feb 14, 2003, 7:48 PM
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The one on top of The Pyramid
A very old, half driven piton, a very crappy micro cam placement, and a tree 15 feet from convenient. It certainly is safe (and do-able), but it is way scary to look at.
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arrettinator
Feb 14, 2003, 7:49 PM
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One piece of webbing with one end tied around a tree with a figure four knot and a biner tied to the other end with a figure four knot in it. I then saw the end of webbing fly up over the face, without the biner, and heard "Thud, OW, THHHHHHHwap, OW" which were "Climber, Climber again, Rope and biner hitting Climber, Climber once more" He only fell about 5 feet thank God. and we advised him to take a class (which my buddy was teaching, $cha-ching$) to learn a safe way to toprope.
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seabee
Feb 14, 2003, 7:54 PM
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OK, this wasn't toproping, but it's pretty funny...
When I was twelve, I decided to rap down the side if my house. I humped a railroad tie up to the roof, unscrewed the screws on three sides of the skylight over the kitchen (so it opened like a box), tied my static line to the RR tie, and put it inside the skylight. Don't ask me what I was thinking, I was TWELVE, for chrissakes!
Anyway, on my first bound after going over the side, my "deadman" pulled out of the skylight, and I went down, flat on my back. At least I had the presence of mind to look up when I heard the RR tie rolling down the roof, and was able to avoid catching it with my face when it came off.
A couple of weeks later, my mom noticed all the black smudges up around the skylight. "Uh, gosh, mom, I dunno. Weren't they always there?"
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jerrygarcia
Feb 14, 2003, 8:00 PM
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Some people may not think this is unsafe but I would never do this, ever. Its just not worth it.
I was at Great falls one day taking some people climbing for their first time when we walked past a european couple preparing to toprope. He had one piece of static line wrapped around a tree but it had no knot. It was wrapped around the tree numerous times then the end of the rope was tucked up in through the wraps. I know many of you will say "yeah the weight will not allow the end to come out of the rope." but if there is no weight on the TR end of the rope while they are hiking to the base, whats to say that the whole things doesnt unravel and drop to the base of the tree?
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arrettinator
Feb 14, 2003, 8:19 PM
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I use that method for tr. A high strength tie off. I use at least two though. Not a single one. And, I wrap it at least 3 times, then I clip the free end on to the tr piece,(edit: making sure not to redirect the line going to my master point) to make sure the free end doesn't unravel. Tucking it up through the wraps does seem a bet sketchy, but it will probably hold. I wouldn't do it either, though.
[ This Message was edited by: arrettinator on 2003-02-14 12:22 ]
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tucsonalex
Feb 14, 2003, 8:23 PM
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Why not just use a bowline? It is quick and easy and will not come untied.
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arrettinator
Feb 14, 2003, 8:35 PM
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A bowline can take the strength of the system at that point down to 50%. Also the bowline can come undone. This method (stated above) takes the knot out of the system altogether, thus keeping the strength of the system at 100%.
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betaflash
Feb 14, 2003, 8:41 PM
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I had the pleasure of seeing a single rope, run through a single bolt hanger, placed over a sharp edge, with the climbers tied in on an overhand knot. Scary, but true.
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camhead
Feb 14, 2003, 8:50 PM
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the anchors at the top of Painted Pony at Supercrack Buttress, Indian Creek, are a little sketchy. One rusty piton and one fixed hex with rotten cordalette, both set in crumbly sandstone that looks as if it has been constantly sluffing off.
When I followed the route, and crawled up to where the leader was belaying me, I was very glad to see that he was anchored into a bunch of cams, and not the fixed anchors.
Luckily, the route is nearly a full rope length high, and doesn't see a lot of toprope traffic.
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valygrl
Feb 14, 2003, 8:50 PM
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Belay anchor off the summit register on top of Cathedral Peak.
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awsclimber
Feb 14, 2003, 8:56 PM
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A piece of rope tied to a sketchy tree, and at the other end tied to an ATC, than the rope running through the ATC. They probably aren't climbing anymore.
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kman
Feb 14, 2003, 8:58 PM
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One draw on one bolt used for t-r.
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jerrygarcia
Feb 14, 2003, 9:46 PM
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awsclimber said
Quote:
A piece of rope tied to a sketchy tree, and at the other end tied to an ATC, than the rope running through the ATC. They probably aren't climbing anymore.
Maybe im just an old hippy but that confuses me. Draw me a picture in MS paint and post it please.
Dave
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rockhugger
Feb 14, 2003, 11:07 PM
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I second that ,please illustrate for us.
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rockhugger
Feb 14, 2003, 11:10 PM
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Single piece of webbing girth hitched aruond a boulder with sharp edges.
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raingod
Feb 15, 2003, 12:19 AM
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It wasn't TR but I saw a guy throw a single sling over a shaky flake and then belay his partner up, using an ATC with the rope threaded incorrectly. At which point he commented on the excessive safety of my partner on the route next to his.
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jt512
Feb 15, 2003, 12:30 AM
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A pseudo-sliding-x, with the biners clipped across the sling, instead of through it.
-Jay
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bouldertoad
Feb 15, 2003, 4:12 AM
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I was at Summersville Lake in West Virginia and I saw a guy who was showing his parents and his sister his new hobby of rock climbing. He was obviously very proud of himself for learning something new. As I was resting on a bolt I looked to my right. He was unable to do the crux move of a given route. So instead of just losing a biner and bailing off he decided it was much better to run the rope directly throught the bolt hanger. Luckily he was only at the first bolt so I did not yell down to him. When I go to the ground i pulled him aside and told him about what he was doing and that I did not want to embarass him in front of his family. He thanked me and went along his way.
I know I should have yelled to him but he was on the first bolt and not to far from the ground so I figured at worst he would only take about a 15 foot grounder(which I have done many times bouldering). All in all I think he is now climbing a little bit safer.
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bouldertoad
Feb 15, 2003, 4:15 AM
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I was at Summersville Lake in West Virginia and I saw a guy who was showing his parents and his sister his new hobby of rock climbing. He was obviously very proud of himself for learning something new. As I was resting on a bolt I looked to my right. He was unable to do the crux move of a given route. So instead of just losing a biner and bailing off he decided it was much better to run the rope directly throught the bolt hanger. Luckily he was only at the first bolt so I did not yell down to him. When I go to the ground i pulled him aside and told him about what he was doing and that I did not want to embarass him in front of his family. He thanked me and went along his way.
I know I should have yelled to him but he was on the first bolt and not to far from the ground so I figured at worst he would only take about a 15 foot grounder(which I have done many times bouldering). All in all I think he is now climbing a little bit safer.
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slab-dyno
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Feb 15, 2003, 9:32 PM
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Single piece of 1-inch webbing tied to a manky fence post at the top of a cliff with the rope running through a single non-locking carabiner.
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sully
Feb 15, 2003, 10:13 PM
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Almost any toprope anchor at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin.
I have seen some pretty sketchy stuff there.
The worst was two med. nuts behind a loose block.
If that isn't sketchy enough, the brilliant people had tied their tubular webbing directly into the wire loop at the end of the nuts. NO BINERS!!
Just to top it off, I saw the same group of people top-roping something way over their head later that same day. They were all taking repeated HARD falls on the rope. I packed up and left; hoping to god that their anchor on that climb was better than the one before.
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