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allanorn
Feb 17, 2003, 11:07 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2003
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I've been thinking about getting a set of BD stoppers/chocks for a toproping rack. However, a climbing trip this weekend served up the fact that my partner's chocks were too small for the routes we were attempting. I'm now concerned that they won't be useful enough to make bomber anchors. Should I stick with them, or ditch them and get a set of hexes? If you think the chocks will work, what's the smallest size that's useful for TR anchors? (I can't see myself setting up an anchor that includes a BD #1 Stopper, for instance.)
Thanks in advance.
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clymbhigh33
Feb 17, 2003, 11:34 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Allanorn,
Well, if your tight on funds, and your partner has stoppers...buy some hexes and you can share the gear! If you have got some cash to spend, definitly get a set of stoppers, AND hexes. You will inevitably want this stuff for your rack anyway as you advance into leading. One thing I will mention that I hope you already know...in most TR situations, there are many sources of natural pro...(e.g.- boulders, tree's, etc) I would use these whenever possible, and you can always back them up with your pro you have purchased.
Do a search on the site as I am sure there is much beta out there on this topic!
Clymb on...
Clymb High....
[ This Message was edited by: clymbhigh33 on 2003-02-17 15:34 ]
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petsfed
Feb 17, 2003, 11:39 PM
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I would trust clear down to a #1 micro stopper. Of course, that wouldn't be the only piece in. If you're willing to trust a belay anchor made of stoppers, why not a toprope anchor? In any event, the smallest stoppers are excellent for directionals. They don't take much force in a fall, but they keep a piece from blowing if you didn't anticipate the forces just so. I would be more concerned about how well a peice actually holds as opposed to how well it would seem to hold up in a fall. After all, all BD stoppers above #3 or so are rated to 14kN or so.
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redpoint73
Feb 19, 2003, 6:33 PM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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I wouldn't trust the No. 1 Stopper in a belay anchor. Its not fall rated, its only rated for body weight (aiding). John Long suggests in his Climbing Anchors books that each piece should be good to 3000 lb. Although every situation is different, of course.
I would say No. 8-13 are most useful for TRs. Maybe 6 and 7, if you need to use them. Then again, I've seen my partner take multiple falls on a shallow-looking No. 3 Stopper, and it held. But if you are talking about which sizes are most useful, thats what I would go with.
But like someone else suggested: If you partner already has a set of Stoppers, then you should buy bigger stuff (Hexes or Cams). Unless you don't always climb with him.
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wlderdude
Feb 19, 2003, 11:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
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Yeah, I would say hexes are the way to go. Others would recomend tri cams.
Be carefull with the bargain hexes you fing on the internet. I bought a set and they are plent strong, but are at least twice as heavy as the name brand type. They are a harder alloy and have little "Bite."
As for the 2KN stoppers, I wouldn't use them for anything but to keep the anchors in place. Having a directional piece to keep the main peices from comming out does not require a rating of thousands of pounds.
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