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onesoul
Feb 21, 2003, 4:04 AM
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Registered: Feb 10, 2003
Posts: 4
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Looking for partners for Bishops, Pinnacles, Santa Barbara, and maybe J-tree trips. Would like to find steady partners for Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and some weekends. Bouldering, buildering, sport, trad, I love it all! 8) I own sport gear and part of my trad rack.
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calpolyclimber
Feb 21, 2003, 4:46 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 360
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Hey. I climb all the time out at Bishops, Cerro Romaulda, etc. I've got steady climbing partners, but if you want to climb some time, hit me up. Wakeboarder_50@hotmail.com... We also climb Tues, Thurs, Fri, and weekends.
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dirtme
Feb 26, 2003, 9:37 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2003
Posts: 107
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I learned how to climb on Bishop's Peak in the early 90's. I miss the place. Last year my wife and I went back to climb and wanted to do all the climbs on cracked wall in one day. Moving from right to left, starting on Lama, we got to Western Airlines and pulled the rope in poison oak Decided not to risk it after that. I'd say all the p.oak is the worse thing about SLO climbing.
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calpolyclimber
Feb 26, 2003, 9:50 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Haha, if you have not been to Cerro Romauldo, you don't know poison oak... That said, I pretty much have a perpetual case of poison oak from Bishops.
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dirtme
Feb 26, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2003
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Is Romauldo the peak with the Surf wall by the national guard? I went there a couple of times and it was pretty fun. It was still pretty dirty and loose back then and once I almost pulled a 100 lb block on my head. Pretty freaked out and ended up pitching for a 20/30 footer. My wife/girlfriend at the time thought it was pretty cool. Man, thanks for bringing back the memories.
Has there been any new developments down there on any other peak? I've been meaning to head back down and seeing if there are any new guides or any new area development. There seems to be a lot of potential.
By the way, just to get this straight, the crux climbing gym really sucks. I remember when it first openned and it sucked back then too. Sorry, had to vent... :)
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calpolyclimber
Feb 27, 2003, 12:29 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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Well, I don't really know how it was back then. I really don't have much of anything to do right now, so what the hell, I'll sum up how it is now.
Yeah, Cerro Romauldo does have the Surf Wall. It is on the National Guard land, and you have to call ahead and get permission to climb there. Getting permission is the easy part....then you get to bushwack through poison oak... It is a pretty well developed sport area now (reletively speaking), and the bolts are actually in great shape, which doesn't make alot of sense cause when we called up the national guard the first time, they said climbers VERY RARELY come by. The rock quality is still pretty bad one some of the routes.
Bishops-
Me and my buddies are pretty much always the only guys out there climbing. We're there about 3 or 4 times a week.
Cracked wall is still going strong. Fun climbs on that one. The rock quality on P-Wall is pretty bad for the most part. The more popular routes, like P-Crack and Impacted Stool Crack have quality rock, but the rest is really flaky. Out Of Hangers changes every time you climb it, if you knwo what I mean. :shock: A LOT of the bolts on Bishops are really shabby. Me and my buddy are planning on getting some bolting gear to replace old rusty button-heads and crusty 1/4" anchor bolts. Overall, the rock quality is pretty bad and it limits the number of climb-able routes.
Cabrillo Peaks-
There are bolt anchors on top of the popular climbs there. But with a few exceptions, the only climbs with good quality rock are the ones below 5.9.
Hollister Peak-
IT LOOKS AMAZING!!! The only problem is that the guy who owns the land wont let people climb there. I hear he has threatened to shoot people who trespass... I think he is just a grumpy old man. Me and my friend plan to call him, or stop by, and just be really nice, and talk about the situation. Maybe the best way is to be really nice about it rather than consider trespassing?
Well, that about sums up the climbing in this area. It seems like most people out here (other than my crew) boulder. There are only a few other guys who seem to climb with any regularity.
Well, I'm done with my essay. Enjoy it.
~Alex
P.S. Hit me up if you're down here some time and want to climb.
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