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gecko49
Mar 2, 2003, 3:08 AM
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i've been climbing for about three months and i'm at a 5.10ish level (on a good day!) anyway i hardly get any time to climb and i haven't climbed in about three weeks. so when i do climb, i want to get a really good workout. i feel like i'm on the dreaded plateau and i'm not really goin anywhere in my climbing ....
also, lately i've been getting these wierd fears... like i'll be bouldering around, and i'll get as high as i want to go on an 11, 11+... but then i won't want to tie in because i won't want to "ruin" what i've "accomplished"... and then when i do tie in, i won't get anywhere. does anybody else ever deal with this or is it just me?
my performance also varies a LOT. one day i can do an 11 (with some effort) and the next i'll have trouble starting a 10. i get pumped out really easy too. any tips about any of this would rock. thanks :)
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psalmadventurer
Mar 2, 2003, 3:20 AM
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Hey--
I feel your pain. I don't get too climb all that much, and when I have a "good" day, I sometimes avoid going back because it might be a "bad" day. Sheesh. But anyway, I got a great book that I think will help you. It's called "Climbing: Training for Peak Performance" by Clyde Soles. The reason I mention it is because it's got "programs of fitness" for those wanting to improve, but who don't get to climb all that much. Other than that, I am sure a lot of ppl will have some good tips.
Keep climbing =)
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camhead
Mar 2, 2003, 3:26 AM
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sounds like you need to work your endurance, dude. just do lots of laps on climbs that are just below your max, outside or in the gym.
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da5id
Mar 2, 2003, 3:36 AM
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Not to be condescending, but who cares? When i climb i have fun. Period. Thats all i really care about. Good day, bad day, in between day, doesnt really matter all that much for me. I think youll find that if you focus on enjoying yourself rather than worrying about how well you're climbing you'll get more out of your climbing experience, and you'll gradually have more good days and less bad days.
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curt
Mar 2, 2003, 3:38 AM
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If you have only been climbing for a few months, it is too soon to talk about "plateau-ing" in terms of performance. I have been climbing now for 24 years and have experienced plateaus, progressions and regressions due to injuries and other things, etc.
When I started climbing, 5.10 was regarded as a worthy goal. So, don't beat yourself up over your progress. Take some of the above advice and also, I would add, work on your climbing technique. Precise footwork will reward you many times over for taking the time to master it. Good luck.
Curt
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carnaged
Mar 2, 2003, 3:47 AM
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totally agreed.
I've been climbing for almost two years now, and i've been on the 5.10 plateau for about a year.
I've been climbing harder than ever lately though! (hey, ya have to be proud of yourself too right?) :)
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flying_dutchman
Mar 2, 2003, 3:58 AM
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You have only been climbing 3 months while taking breaks up to three weeks long between climbing days and your stuck at the 5.10 level and get pumped easily.
any climber can have this problem so learn some patience. It will come soon enough.
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gecko49
Mar 2, 2003, 4:08 AM
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sounds like i need improved fitness and attitude. yeah when i first started climbing it was PURELY for fun as i really had no expectations for myself. as you keep climbing though, you get into it and also there's the pressure from the other climbers, as you get to be in the gym more and more often. eh whatever, right?
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melekzek
Mar 2, 2003, 4:48 AM
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did you said 3 months... huh... try climbing 5.10-11ish for 10 years, then you will learn patience...
errr... maybe I should learn how to train
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 3, 2003, 4:18 PM
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If you are at 5.10 after only 3 months, you are ahead of most people. I did my first 5.10 after about 3 months, but I wouldn't have called myself a 5.10 climber at that point. You just need to get out and climb. Reading books and just watching people helps too.
I don't think it's possible to plateau at anything after a few months, so keep your head up and keep trying.
Josh
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daisuke
Mar 3, 2003, 4:46 PM
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sharing my experience...
I´ve been climbing about a year and a half now, I was at the 5.10 level for about 8 months out of that year and a half, then I moved to germany and I had nothing to do but climb, and being here in germany I have improved my level at least a whole number grade, the only way I did that was climbing 3-4 times a week. similarly I was reading an article about the lead climber in chile right now and he got good going to the gym or rock SIX times a week. if you want to improve fast you have to dedicate some good time to training. or just climb lots
Regards, D
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vram1974
Mar 3, 2003, 5:04 PM
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In reply to: i've been climbing for about three months and i'm at a 5.10ish level
When I began climbing, I was estatic about my first clean ascent of a gym 5.9 route, which took well over three months to accomplish. Believe me, in the spectrum of climbing, 3 months is nothing. You should be happy with your milestone of 5.10. I would say you are ahead of par for the course.
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hammer_
Mar 3, 2003, 5:17 PM
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I fell you need to relax when you climb, it seems your putting to much pleasure yourself. If you relax you will not grip the holds too tight, also try down climbing at a lower grade, it will help to teach you how to shift your weight properly.
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cerikpete
Mar 3, 2003, 7:00 PM
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Yeah, be proud of that 5.10 and just have patience.
Also, focusing on better footwork will help with your pumping problem. You have to make yourself use your legs more instead of pulling yourself up with your arms.
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zeta
Mar 3, 2003, 7:23 PM
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i was definitely there-at the 5.10 level--for a long time (maybe 2 years) and i felt like i was stuck at that level. I think i was too hung up on the rating, so maybe i would complete a 10 but barely. It was only when i started going to the gym regularly--climbing at least twice a week--that i saw my climbing improve. 5.10s started getting a lot easier and i was calmer and climbing smoother. I wasn't even willing to try 11's b/c i was intimidated and remembered flailing on 11s the year before. It wasn't until someone who worked at the gym suggested that i try some 11s and now, i can get up 11s and am working on some of the harder 11s (aretes and overhangs w/ little to hang on). It seems to me that the more i relax about the rating/grade, the better i climb. Just keep climbing and don't get discouraged. Your strength/endurance will definitely improve w/ more time and once you start feeling more calm in your technique, you'll get past the 10s. In the meantime, just enjoy the climbing!
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cloudbreak
Mar 3, 2003, 7:33 PM
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Are you leading 5.10?
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zeta
Mar 3, 2003, 7:39 PM
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marc,
nope, not leading 11s (i wish!) someday, hopefully...
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fanederhand
Mar 3, 2003, 7:45 PM
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Climbing 5.10 what?
In the Gym?
Sport?
TRAD?
Who is sandbagging who? :? :wink:
Anyway ask yourself. Why do I climb? If how hard the grad you can do means something to you then do what it takes to make the grade you want. Three months is a real short time to be thinking about being leveling off. Lots of good beta given all ready. So take it :idea:
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climbsomething
Mar 3, 2003, 8:11 PM
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If you are in fact climbing 5.10 after only 3 months (with almost 1/3 of that off) then you have plenty of natural raw ability/strength. Put your feet to serious work and you'll be cruising even more.
You admitted you get pumped easily, which sounds like your endurance may be weak, and/or you're just climbing on your arms (common among beginners). Again, get some good footwork going and you'll be able to climb lots more to your liking!
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grigriese
Mar 3, 2003, 8:30 PM
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Climbing is the best thing to make you a better climber! 5.10 after 3 months is very good, especially if you can do it without hang dogging. Enjoy yourself - if you allow yourself to fall prey to peer pressure - climbing won't be as much fun for you - it will only be frustrating.
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rodeomountain
Mar 3, 2003, 8:46 PM
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In reply to: If you have only been climbing for a few months, it is too soon to talk about "plateau-ing" in terms of performance.
I disagree.....In a very short time after I started climbing I was climbing 10c with little to no effort and continuously got spit off of 11s. I still get spit off continuously and it has been almost a year and I assure you it has nothing to do with my training. I think it is more of a head thing than anything.
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davidji
Mar 3, 2003, 9:42 PM
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In reply to: ...In a very short time after I started climbing I was climbing 10c with little to no effort and continuously got spit off of 11s. I still get spit off continuously and it has been almost a year and I assure you it has nothing to do with my training. I think it is more of a head thing than anything.
When I started, I was told that people can climb 5.10 on strength alone, but to go beyond it requires technique. There are exceptions, but it seems like a good guideline.
I think the fastest way to go beyond 5.10 for many climbers is taking technique lessons from a good instructor.
Paying attention to how good climbers climb, along with lots of practise seems to work well for some people.
David
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