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superbum
Mar 6, 2003, 1:16 AM
Post #26 of 40
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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no gear left behind as of yet...a bunch of skin and sweat though!
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highcamp
Mar 9, 2003, 1:50 AM
Post #27 of 40
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 29
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#4 Camalot in the valley. I slipped right while placing it and hence it didn't quite go where I intended it to. I spent 2+ hrs trying to get it out with zero luck. D'oh!
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brutusofwyde
Mar 9, 2003, 8:10 AM
Post #28 of 40
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
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In reply to: #4 Camalot in the valley. I slipped right while placing it and hence it didn't quite go where I intended it to. I spent 2+ hrs trying to get it out with zero luck. D'oh! What route?? (don't shout it out, send me a private message) :twisted:
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gyngve
Mar 9, 2003, 8:29 AM
Post #29 of 40
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Registered: Dec 28, 2002
Posts: 155
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We lost a picket somewhere in the Pickets.
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apollodorus
Mar 9, 2003, 8:41 AM
Post #30 of 40
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
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No fair, Brutus! We all get the same, lotteryesque shot at finding and bootying it!
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highcamp
Mar 9, 2003, 12:27 PM
Post #31 of 40
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 29
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Dear Sir “of Wyde”, We regret to inform you that your bride-to-be, the aptly named “#4-of-Wide,” has been taken hostage and there is, at present, no trace of her. We have issued an ALL POINTS BULLETIN across the greater Sierra range for citizens to be on the lookout for her – she was last seen wearing a rather scratched up anodized purple dress. We assure you, if she is found, you will be the second person we call. Sincerely, your friends at the FBI
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freudian
Mar 9, 2003, 2:58 PM
Post #32 of 40
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Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 236
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I haven't 'fixed' any gear yet, however, I have had quite some battles with a #6 OP NUT and a #13 OP Nut (this one was actaully completely loose and free, but it was trapped in the rock somehow. The leader eventually came down with his aid hammer and got it out.). As far as LOST gear... I suppose my Petzl 'OK' Oval locking biner is now 'fixed' and being used as a redundant backup for the existing biner as a top-rope anchor at my local college climbimg gym. 4 or 5 ppl have tried to get it unlocked, to no avil. Also, After replacing that Oval biner, I then proceeded to misplace another OK Oval at that gym. I dunno where that's gotten off to, but im sure its made a new home in someone's pack. I haven't managed to loose anything else. ... Though a Squirell tried to gnaw through my MEC Rope-Pack, then gave up and learned how to use the zipper... but broke it. It was the only zipperd part of the whole bag (big enough to put some snacks in). I had some peanuts in there and the squirells wanted htem bad and they gottem. Freud
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happymondays
Mar 9, 2003, 4:50 PM
Post #33 of 40
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Registered: Jul 20, 2002
Posts: 8
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Dudes, #2 Tricam, Pitch 1 Snake Dike, Yosemite. If you've been on this, you know that crack drops down forever - and that is where my sweet tricam resides (unless a gearmonkey got it). Side discussion - do you all (like me) find this phenomenon more embarassing than just financially troubling. Frankly, as a trad climber, it drives me crazy to leave gear in as a matter of principle more than the $15 I'm out for losing a tricam. Thoughts? Happymondays
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freudian
Mar 10, 2003, 3:12 AM
Post #34 of 40
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Registered: Sep 23, 2002
Posts: 236
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Happymondays: Leaving a peice of gear that's less than 30$ CDN (15 USD) .... its the principle. I would hate to leave gear in. If it was over that.... Like a cam (80$ CDN/45 USD) its almost purely money. For me, 80$ is a days pay, before the 25% income tax comes out. Anyhow... i don't leave gear if it can be helped. Andrew
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onamission116
Mar 10, 2003, 5:33 PM
Post #35 of 40
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Registered: Feb 24, 2003
Posts: 60
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Two mid sized nuts and a .75 tricam (after I fell on it). Learned the hard way not to place in crystals :roll:
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ajoys
Mar 10, 2003, 10:29 PM
Post #36 of 40
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Registered: Feb 5, 2002
Posts: 45
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We had a flex friend walk in and get stuck on the Bong (JT) yesterday. My friend fought it for about a half hour and finally got it out. On a side note, the weather was perfect, crowds where down and we had a great day of climbing.
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yeti
Mar 10, 2003, 10:53 PM
Post #37 of 40
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 57
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This post reminds me of a story I read. A few years ago, a swiss party was on the ultra-classic west face of Le Dru, in the French Alps. The climbers were aware of two fixed cams that were permanently stuck in a crack on the route. When they got to them, the first cam was a cinch to recover, and the second one was barely holding in, basically dangling there. They got kinda spooked and actually called for a helicopter lift off the route. A few hours later, a 100 meter section of the face peeled off and came crashing down the route. The cracks had started expanding a few hours earlier... Talk about a good day: retreive 2 cams, save your life too!
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blindslap
Mar 11, 2003, 12:00 AM
Post #38 of 40
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 174
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Speaking of lost gear, did anyone in SLC city find my#8 BD stopper on "the Great Chockstone" just curious
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texplorer
Mar 11, 2003, 6:43 AM
Post #39 of 40
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
Posts: 199
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I lost two nuts that I had previously bootied cause my stupid _ss partner was too stupid to retrieve them out of the sandstone on spaceshot. The next day I went back and they had already vanished.
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ajoys
Mar 11, 2003, 8:04 AM
Post #40 of 40
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Registered: Feb 5, 2002
Posts: 45
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Kind of a gear bootie story. I was at Big Rock (California), which by the way, every time I go climbing there I have seen the most interesting, funniest and also dangerous things go on. Any way, this guy leads up African Flake and his second then climbs up and unclips the rope from the draws but leaves ALL the quickdraws on the bolts.
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