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climbing-buff
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Mar 31, 2003, 4:32 PM
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First I'd like to say thanks to everyone on the site for being really helpful so far and putting up with all my questions!
Ok so how do you use a hangboard? do you just put your fingers in the little slots and hang there or do you do pull-ups or what? And would anyone recommend them as a good training device?
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minnesotatrad
Mar 31, 2003, 4:38 PM
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i have a hangboard and use it alot. I do pull ups on it and dead hands. I also do a little footless bouldering. they help alot with finger strenght.
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dekenstructor1
Mar 31, 2003, 4:51 PM
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sorry
that was obviously 6 links
my bad
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jumaringjeff
Mar 31, 2003, 5:26 PM
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pull-ups, hangs, and now that I'm strong enough, I like to do 'laps' which consist of moving both hands from one hold to the next in a sort of 'lunge' manner. For example, hang from jugs, then lunge to pockets, then edges, and back to jugs. Dave G. does this on the 'Small Amazing Things' video at climbxmedia.com
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climber49er
Mar 31, 2003, 9:43 PM
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I set mine up inside a doorway that is right next to a pull down ladder to my attic so I just pull down the ladder and I have nice versatile footholds all the way up to the ceiling. Basically, as I work my feet upward I simulate an overhang more and more.
I will alternately work my hands from hold to hold as you would climbing in a gym. moving my feet up and down the ladder to change body position. I have found I can hang and or pull up a TON of different ways with this setup.
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lalamur
Mar 31, 2003, 9:44 PM
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in my opinion hangboards are on of the best training aids ever. dead hangs, pull ups, doing laps, dynos, crimpers, edges...it all works. i use it mainly for endurance and finger strength. if you live in an area where it's impossible to get outside in the winter or you're nowhere near a gym, a hangboard is definitly your best option.
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melekzek
Mar 31, 2003, 9:59 PM
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hangboard and dyno, everytime I start doing this I end up blowing a finger, hence I only do deadhangs and unweighted pullups now
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climbing-buff
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Apr 1, 2003, 1:16 AM
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Wow once again I thank you all for being so helpful, I'm pretty sure I'm gonig to get a hangboard now. Any brand preferences?
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climber49er
Apr 1, 2003, 1:21 AM
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I like my Nicros Warrior board. The Metolius simulator looks sweet but it was out of stock when I wanted to buy it.
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rockinitinark
Apr 1, 2003, 1:52 AM
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i've got the metolius simulator and i have it above the door jam so you can use the door jam as a crimp too :D and the simulater has better sloper holds then anyother i think, which i like cause its my weakness but thats just me.
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bmoscon
Apr 1, 2003, 2:27 AM
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i use the nicros warrior board too. i think it really helps to train, especially for the fingers
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melekzek
Apr 1, 2003, 2:42 AM
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warrior board rulez...
not many holds, but has a really cool shape.
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liv2climb
Apr 1, 2003, 4:06 AM
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I've had my Metolius Simulator for about a month now and am completly satisfied.I set me back about $60 (cosmetic blem) from gearexpress.com .Also on the 3/4in plywood I used for a mounting board,I placed a bolt hanger(not weight bearing) on each side.I use them for clipping in quickdraws and then clipping in the rope.Since my experience is only with toprope,I believe this will help in the transition to lead.Hope this was helpful!
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climbing-buff
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Apr 1, 2003, 4:32 AM
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Thanks again guys! I think I have all I need :D
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mr_phelps
Apr 1, 2003, 7:39 AM
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hang on it. Be creative, after you play around for a while you'll figure out some kind of workout that gives you some forearm pain. However, watch out for tendonitis, it's a bitch.
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overlord
Apr 1, 2003, 8:28 AM
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i do deadhangs when i concentrate on fingers and i do pull ups (weighted or not) only on jugs.
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