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otter
Apr 7, 2003, 10:51 PM
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Marmot and I are trying to work out vacation plans for the year... and we want to go to at least one climbing area out of our immediate backyard. Due to that ever present financial pinch we can't go any place too far away. So we have narrowed it down to Squamish B.C. and Smith Rock, Oregon. We would love for our vacation to turn into a gig. Hint Hint! (We need some lead-aholics!)
Here are the dates:
Friday, June 13th thru Monday, June 16th. Most climbing would be on the Saturday and Sunday to allow for travel.
Which place should we go??? Who could show up where during this time frame???
Looking forward to hearing from everyone!!
*gee I hope I didn't just start a regional war* giggle *
Otter
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wallrat
Apr 8, 2003, 7:28 PM
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Hey guys, I've spent a lot of time at both places...and for me, it's not even worth thinking about. SQUAMISH is the deal. If it had better weather, it would be busier than Yosemite.
June in Smith is HOT...(Squamish is nicer, mostly west facing)and you must use a mat to lay your rope out on. It is the dirtiest place to climb you're ever been...hot, desert, with posers. Squamish is Granite...'nuff said. Squamish has long sweet trad routes, so you need to lead on gear, Smith...well you know about that.
Squamish has a small town, some camping, showers at the RV park at Klahanie Falls, the best finger cracks anywhere (don't miss the Klahanie Crack, 5.7) A lake to swim in, it's sooo killer.
Also do Angles Crest if you can. The first pitch is sixty feet up a tree, then stem over to the rock. It gets even better!!!
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otter
Apr 8, 2003, 7:42 PM
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Up a TREE???!!! LOL! What a HOOT!
I have been to Smith before allthough my husband hasn't..I grew up around there. I have done alot of hiking in the area..but didn't climb at the time. I must admit so far..granite (Leavenworth)has been my favorate to climb...although it is harder than the basalt at vantage and the rhino at exit 38 and similar stuff at Mazama.
Neither Marmot nor I lead...personal preference. And that is one reason we would love to have a small gathering on those dates at whereever people would likely show up. Thus the options. Another reasonis to meet and climb with more Rc.comers.
So if anyone thinks they could make it on those dates, say to Squamish...PLEASE let us know!
We are willing to follow trad under the right circumstances (ie. very safe climbers who know what they are doing and preferably bolts and chains as top anchors.) Ofcourse will follow sport. We top out at about 5.10a right now. Are pretty solid on 5.8s and 5.9s. Although that was only recently tested on basalt...haven't been back to granite yet this season...nor did we get a chance to test any cracks. But we are game to try. It is all about having fun and hopefully doing so with pleasant company.
SO WHO COULD MAKE IT?!
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ire510
Apr 8, 2003, 7:55 PM
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I can't speak about squamish(never been there), but going to smith is like going to an indoor gym.
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thrillseeker05
Apr 8, 2003, 8:10 PM
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I hope to encourage more people to talk more smack about Smith Rocks so we can get rid of the crowds and posers. Squamish is beautiful, Squamish is the shit, Squamish has better weather in June, go to Squamish!
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crotch
Apr 8, 2003, 8:18 PM
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gone
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illimaniman
Apr 8, 2003, 9:35 PM
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[quote="crotch"]In reply to: Anyone who says this must have absolutely no appreciation for nature.
It's nice to see that there are some who still do. I, for one, got into climbing to be at one with nature, etc, but that quality of climbing seems to be falling by the wayside.
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slavetogravity
Apr 8, 2003, 9:47 PM
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One good thing about Squamish is that it is VERY top rope friendly. Unlike Smith where you’re very limited to the number of routs you can toprope. Squamish has a great number of quality cracks and face routs, mostly in the Smoke Bluffs, that you can easily toprope. If you’re looking for a ropegun, go stay at BC Parks campsite or, even better, the new hostel in town. You’ll likely hook up with someone there.
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climbinggirl33
Apr 10, 2003, 7:25 PM
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I am moving to Seattle THIS Saturday (yikes, still packing . . . ) and will be looking for climbing partners and road trips to all of the climbing the PNW has to offer! So wherever you decide - I'll bring the trail mix!
B
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krustyklimber
Apr 10, 2003, 7:53 PM
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I love Squish as much as the next guy... but knowing you and Mark (the little I do), I'd say go to Smith.
At Squamish, the local guides will have everthing you guys would like to toprope already mob toproped, and rudely will not give way. Most of what is within your grades, is scattered troughout the Smoke Bluffs, and a lot more hiking around is needed to access it, not to mention a fair bit of being lost... unless some signage has been added since I was there last.
The weather is always a gamble at Squish, much like it is here... not an outdoor wedding kinda planning place.
At Smith everything is well marked, there are many more bolted moderates, and it is exremely easy to find your way around. Only the Morning Glory wall has real big lines of hogs (you may have to remind "campers" of the ethics of hogging).
The weather at Smith Rocks is way more "unredeemable vacation time" friendly (imho), much more the outdoor wedding planning kinda place.
It has an incredible beauty that you cannot sample here at home...
I'd go someplace that doesn't look, smell and rain like it does here on my vacation.
Squamish is not that place.
After you trad skills are more solid, the fun stuff at Squish will be more your style. But I think you'd find yourself easily overwhelmed up north.
Just my 2 cent...
Jeff http://pages.prodigy.net/.../emoticons/wave1.gif
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shortfatoldguy
Apr 10, 2003, 8:01 PM
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Haven't been to Squamish yet. But I hear it's granite up there. Not that nasty friable tuff at Smith, where you're liable to grab a nubbin for dear life and smack yourself in the face with the back of your hand when it pops. Smith sucks, I'm tellin' ya. Don't go there.
And ticks. Have you heard about the tick problem at Smith? I'm surprised we haven't been hearing about Lyme Disease among Smith regulars. Only a matter of time.
:wink:
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billcoe_
Apr 10, 2003, 8:50 PM
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Squamish, no question. I love granite. PERIOD. Plus I've seen too many deaths at Smith and it's too crowded.
For all that It's close to me and I'll probably get over there in a couple of weeks.
BTW: Smith will probably be too hot in June an Squamish will probably be too wet.
Smith may not be the most toprope friendly location, but there is plenty to toprope. Personally, if you only are toproping, neither of these places is the best IMO. Both have great multi-pitch climbs though and awesome cracks.
Good luck:
Bill
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gyngve
Apr 10, 2003, 9:18 PM
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In reply to: I love Squish as much as the next guy... but knowing you and Mark (the little I do), I'd say go to Smith. At Squamish, the local guides will have everthing you guys would like to toprope already mob toproped, and rudely will not give way.
That just means you need to wake up before them. :)
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ire510
May 14, 2003, 8:32 PM
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WHere else can you go to be at one with nature and be surrounded by 100+ spraylord sport climbers. Smith in its purest form is a great natural enviroment, but its ruined by the sheer numbers of people that go there...thats why its like going to a gym... I can show you some great spots where you can get your own little slice of nature without the "gym-like" attitude of SMith Rocks...
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tori
May 16, 2003, 8:14 PM
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and the crime at smith, my god, you can't even get out of the car before getting jacked up by backwoods thugs. also like they said above the rock is very weak, pops off all the time, that's why it is bolted like a gym. has lines like a gym, plastic holds are going to be put on as soon as they can stand the intense 130 F of summer in the park. bad bad place, i hear up at squamish they have free food and stuff too :D
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grandwall
May 16, 2003, 8:17 PM
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free food, gimme a break
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otter
May 16, 2003, 9:20 PM
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Thanks to a couple of you that pm'd me...which made me remeber that i had better post current info here!
It looks as if any major trip will have to be post poned.
I am having some trouble with tendens and muscle injuries due to a pain in the butt health issue that causes stuff like this from time to time. So... for now I can say I won't be going to far to climb.
Hopefully will get a chance to test out how my body is doing in a few weeks at icicle canyon.
Thanks for all the replies folks!
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high
May 18, 2003, 1:25 AM
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you gotta be kiddin' me, there's a debate about this?
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phitty
May 18, 2003, 2:12 AM
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SQUAMISH!!!
The Smoke Bluffs are not that busy, infact if you are on holidays and can take a rest day on weekends, I bet you will get on any climb you want without waiting, that includes the overworked Burgers and Fries aka Canada's busiest crag.
It has ALOT of top ropes, lke over 1000 routes in the Lil Smoe Bluffs alone.
And for exposed 5.7... I bet Star Chek, in Cheakamus Canyon would give anything at Smith a go... its a beauty, 3, (contrived 4) pitch over the Cheakamus gorge, a class V whitewater (yet unrun i believe) canyon. Its is awesome, but avoid the weekend on that one too.
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