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simzboardr
Jun 4, 2003, 6:07 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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I personally can't slag anyone yet, because im still the gumby lookin up at them all
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flamer
Jun 4, 2003, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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tcollins- another good guess! And I may have come close to lighting myself up a time or two! But that's not it!
Simsboarder,
You are going to have a blast on leaning tower.
Ok here's a hint on the flamer tag- It involves my legs.
josh
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edge
Jun 4, 2003, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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A tattoo??
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flamer
Jun 4, 2003, 7:49 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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DING DING DING!!!
Edge wins !!!
It's 2 tattoo's actually, I have black flames tattooed from my ankles up to about mid calf. Great guess edge!
You win- not a damn thing!
josh
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timpanogos
Jun 4, 2003, 10:19 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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Crap, Flammer - I'm disappointed - the ignition point should have been on the checks with the flames shooting down your legs!
puts a whole new meaning to the song with the words "Great Balls of Fire"
Chad
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climbhigher
Jun 4, 2003, 10:20 PM
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Yeah, Catra that would be very Cool. I have always been interested in Long runs. I will get in contact with you when i get back to the Valley. CHEERS. Oh Yeah, Santa Cruz is a pretty nice place. I am on my way to the beach right now.
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piton
Jun 5, 2003, 1:49 PM
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Josh
what site were you in C4. I was in 15 with the Brits, and the Hubers moved in after the 1st week. Tomas told me that it was too hot for them now, plus Alex injured his arm, so they were coming back in the fall for the send of the Zodiac.
Catra, I saw you running in the park. I yelled to you from the car.
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kevlar
Jun 5, 2003, 4:17 PM
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flamer...all in fun....does sound a little painful...getting a tattoo that is ...but then I am a sissy for pain...heck I cant take it here in the fresno area...when it reaches 104d fahrenheit I just seem to melt away
rock on
John
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simzboardr
Jun 5, 2003, 6:07 PM
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hows camp 4 in august.... and do you need to call ahead or just go?
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lambone
Jun 5, 2003, 6:15 PM
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Call ahead???
Dude...get your head outa your ass...CAMP 4 is WALK IN ONLY, allways has been, allways will be.
Seriosly simz, read up on some of the Yosemite history before you visit the place, you will appreciate it much more! Check out "Camp 4" written by Steve Roper. Classic toilet material... :wink:
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flamer
Jun 5, 2003, 6:40 PM
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Piton,
I was in site 24.
To bad about Alex's arm...Those guys made us laugh so hard! They told us the best place to sleep in C4 was the old toilet blocks on the west end. My partner is friends with Werner and all he kept saying was, "I can't believe they're sleeping where I used to shit". :lol:
And How about those leather pants Alex was cruising around in? Man he was Euro to the max!! Made me laugh!
josh
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climbingcowboy
Jun 5, 2003, 11:06 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2002
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Lambone that is cool book read it twice. Catra, Climbhigher you guys are freakin crazy, I couldnt imagine running that far, hell I hate just hiking to the base of a climb, ROCK ON.
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elcapbuzz
Jun 6, 2003, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Aug 24, 2001
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Hey Josh,
Good to meet you in the Valley. Sorry, we didn't chat a bit longer.... I'm sure you know what it's like to have tunnel vision on your latest project.
Extrememountaneer?? I'm pretty sure I know your identity. Email me. I haven't heard from you in a while. I'm not sure which day you shot me.... but, I was actually off the Zodiac. I climbed up Surgeon General from the 7th pitch of the Zod and then started up some expanding flake that hasn't been climbed. Hell, I figured since I helped fix the Huber lines... I might as well use them to "proj out". Too bad I had to go to work for a week.
PTPP?? My brother and I tried to RENAME his nickname to "DTPP".
Yep, Drop the Pitons Pete. He dropped his whole rack of pins on the Sea. Good thing Chongo had his lines fixed and someone was at the base, so he could retrieve them.
Josh, hope to see you again. Good job on the LT.
Cheers, Ammon
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ergophobe
Jun 6, 2003, 7:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2002
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In reply to: i respect yuji hirayama with honor.. amazing skill and humbleness. well rounded with a very good attitude to boot. i wish the best on his free ascent of lurking fear.
My wife and I knew that Yuji was going to be on Lurking Fear on a particular day, so we went up with binoculars just to watch how one of the best does it. It may sound ridiculous, but I think just looking through binoculars watching him work a route will improve my climbing (mostly as a result of a certain shift in attitude and approach rather than any technique that I could witness at that distance).
As far as I know, Yuji Hiriyama did not manage to free LF during his visit, but I do know that Yuji and Nick Fowler shattered the speed record on Lurking Fear, climbing it in something like 3:04 (I think the old record was in the neighborhood of 4:30).
We also knew that Yuji and Nick were trying for the speed record, so we wanted to see that, having never seen any actual speed ascents. The one thing we learned is that it helps to be a fantastically good climber.... They managed to shave so much off the record because Yuji basically freed or French-freed every pitch, climbing with a completely anemic rack and only one three-step aider which he rarely used. We could barely see them anymore by the time they hit pitch 8, but with the largest piece on the rack being a #1 Camalot, that meant that Yuji simply ran it out for an *entire* pitch on the offwidth crack. By the time we got back to our car and drove around to the Bridal Veil area to see how they were doing, they were off the route..... Otherwise said, I think they spent as much time on the climb as I spent on the last two pitches I've done.
Tom
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yenni
Jun 6, 2003, 8:47 PM
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Registered: May 27, 2003
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Catra:
How are you doing? I hope your arm is healing up nicely. :D
It was great meeting you and Ammon. Please say "hi" to him.
My next trip to the valley will be on the 16th or 17th and will stay there for a while and will have all my gear. Michael and I ordered all our stuff from outta state and saved a few hundred bucks. I'm heading out to Lover's Leap this wkend with him and a bunch of other friends. Can't wait to climb some more. 8)
What are you up to?
Josh:
How's it going? Did you have a good time out in RR's?
Isn't it a bit hot out there now?
yen
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extrememountaineer
Jun 6, 2003, 9:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2003
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Ammon,
I shot a couple of pics of you on Thursday the 29th, late afternoon. Looked like you were at a belay station sorting gear or something. there was a party above you and to your right, possibly on Zodiac while you were exploring. I am still getting used to this darned telescope lense-almost impossible to keep steady, especially as windy as it was that day. It is a fixed f16 so had to use slow shutter speeds. Didn't get too many "sharp" pics that day even though I had a sandbag on it. Might need to hang a weight from it too. Still waiting to do the North Ridge of Conness, just stay out of trees the week before we go. Still can't believe you "decked" onto a deck. :lol:
Jody
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apollodorus
Jun 9, 2003, 8:29 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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JFTR, bringing firewood to burn at the Alcove was NOT retarded. There was a nice sandy spot near the edge, and the ashes disappeared with a little water the next day. It was cool. Way cool. And the smoke helped to kill the trade route stench.
What is retarded is all the "good" climbers going so fast they have to leave their trash all over the place. We wound up hauling and packing out about 30 pounds of crap from the Alcove, and that was only about half of what was there. We declined to take, or otherwise deal with, the 3 liter soda bottle full of piss that some moron left on Long Ledge. And we didn't chop out and take the numerous chicken lines from the Hollow Flake crack.
We also decided that the poorly placed bolts we found on the Salathe would remain untouched, so as to save our strength for drilling like crazy on BD.
Copperdickhead: I ran into Steve Schneider in El Cap Meadows while waiting for YOSAR to trundle the Stoveleg Crack deathblock, and he said to fix the belays as we saw fit. He also wanted to thank you for looking after his route for him while he was away, but he's back now.
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flamer
Jun 9, 2003, 2:57 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Yenni,
Yup it's hot in RR. Not as hot as Vegas proper, it's alittle higher and there isn't asphalt everywhere! But I couldn't find a partner so I didn't climb anyway. Sure was nice drinking beers next to the pool though!
josh
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copperhead
Jun 9, 2003, 5:49 PM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
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In reply to: We also decided that the poorly placed bolts we found on the Salathe would remain untouched, so as to save our strength for drilling like crazy on BD. Copperdickhead: I ran into Steve Schneider in El Cap Meadows while waiting for YOSAR to trundle the Stoveleg Crack deathblock, and he said to fix the belays as we saw fit. He also wanted to thank you for looking after his route for him while he was away, but he's back now.
Apollo,
Thanks for your kindness. I'm glad that you decided to be nice to the bolts on the Salathe. As for speaking to Schneider, I know that Pete talked to him earlier and was told that adding bolts to the belays was OK. I also know that Pete approached the ASCA for bolting hardware but was denied, due to the fact that the bolts would be added to the route, as well as used to replace existing bolts. If you guys would keep up on local ethics and talk to locals, you’d know that the first ascentionist doesn’t have the final say in what happens to a route, especially with regard to adding bolts. Bolts should never be added to a route unless the ENTIRE (local) climbing community reaches the consensus that it is OK. How many other locals did you guys talk to?
Congratulations on a pathetic ascent. I can’t wait to see Pete next week.
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flamer
Jun 9, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Copperhead,
Glad to see you're still around! Hadn't seen any post's from you lately, thought you got sick of it... anyway have a good trip to the valley!
josh
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alpinestylist
Jun 9, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2002
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not to diss, but just to preempt the impending schmack fest from the Dunes associates... I have the following to add.
A college buddy did the second ascent of Bermuda Dunes with his girlfriend in tow. He lead every pitch but one, freed all the OW and said that the ONE A4 pitch (the fishhead??) definetly isn't A4+! I saw pictures looked like good thin nailing.
I believe it took him 5 nights on, valley to rim, no fixing.
Later he soloed Gulf Stream, but Wally Barker had scooped him to it. He said it was nice though cuz Wally is a bigger dude than he, and he figured all the heads were good...funny stuff.
He is obviously very light though, cuz isn't there always a BETTER WAY????
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flamer
Jun 9, 2003, 7:26 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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HAHA!! And the plot thickens!!!
Hey Stylist, did CK DROP anything when he climbed Bermunda dunes?
stirring the pot.....
josh
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 12:59 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
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Wow anyone who is calling copperhead stupid things is pretty pathetic! I doubt he gives a flying fuck. Good to see you post bro.
I'm not dissing the acsent but some people around here need to grow up. I do diss the adding of bolts to belays. Steve is big on free climbing so naturally he has grown soft. I think the guy has climbed .14 sport. So obviously he has spent alot of time close to good bolts. Now replaceing an old bolt is a much better idea. Lucky you didn't get shot! Hell if anyone drilled on stuff I've worked on I might shoot them. I do not understand why you would want to haul stuff to make a fire. Why not just bring some fire works?? Now that would have been pretty fun!
Fuck Bolt Adding!
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iamthewallress
Jun 10, 2003, 1:17 AM
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Index to PTPP Topic #4523: The BETTER WAY to cause a traffic jam on a trade route and guaruntee others an uncomfortable night's sleep:
From an otherwise really inspiring TR posted on rec.climbing at
http://www.climbernet.com/miscellany/climbing/salathe.html
...After the day's climbing was done, we settled in on Lung Ledge while Ben got ready to lead Hollow Flake. The plan quickly fell apart, however, since another party, consisting of "Pass the Pitons" Pete and Tom, the maker of the huge Valley Giant cams, was merging onto the Salathé from Bermuda Dunes. They were aiding (!) Hollow Flake with their huge cams, and it took them hours and hours to do it.
Ben waited patiently but finally had to give up when they informed him that they planned on taking up all the space on Hollow Flake ledge, and there'd be no room for Ben and Janet. This seemed a bit unreasonable, considering that Pete and Tom had a double portaledge EACH, but they were there first, and they decided to take advantage of it.
We made some room for Ben and Janet on Lung Ledge and all settled in for a good night's sleep (well, I kept waking up thinking that Aaron and Mitch were going to collapse the portaledge and crush me, but other than that...
Mike got to the Valley at about 2 am after flying back to Sacramento from Atlanta. He jugged the fixed lines and arrived at Lung Ledge after about 1000 feet of ascending with no sleep for over 30 hours. He was pretty wasted.
Before Mike could slow down and fall asleep, we packed up the bags and headed off to begin day two. The day started with a brief encounter with Pete and Tom on Hollow Flake ledge. They had about 450 pounds of gear, and were dragging it up the wall at a glacial pace. They were spread out all over Hollow Flake ledge- ropes, coffee brewers, hanging stoves, wine. They told Mitch that they were carrying firewood for a campfire on El Cap spire. They were very friendly, making room for us on the small ledge, shuffling their stuff around and even belaying Aaron on the first lead of the day while we got out stuff organized around them...
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 1:23 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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what do you think we do to all the speed demons out there? I'm sure many good free climbers wonder why we are aiding some of those pitches. But I don't understand why Pete just didn't free alot more of the route.
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