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flamer
May 28, 2003, 11:43 PM
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Just left the valley today(28th may). I spent 2 weeks there and found out some new and interesting little tidbits while I was there.
The coolest is the Free climbing going on on El cap...The Hubers(alex and Thomas) are Freeing ZODIAC!!! I shared a site with them in C4 (and a few beers, those Germans can drink!) and here is what they told me..They said they had freed all the moves and were working on linking them and dialing in the crux pitchs...then in a couple of weeks they will be going for a red point attempt- from the ground...they seemed pretty confident. They also told me that Leo Houlding and crew were trying to free New Jersey Turnpike...and I saw them up there ALOT. I met Yuji Hirayuma who was working on freeing Lurking Fear...he showed my partner how he'd glued his finger nails to his fingers so he wouldn't rip them off on the incredibily small edges!
Yosar "rescued" a huge block from the stoveleg's....I think a better word is ..."removed".
PTPP is there pissing people off. Including me..He dropped a hook off of Bermuda dunes which plummeted 600ft and hit me directly on the left index finger...I got lucky and it didn't break...and no he can't have his damn hook back! The yosemite locals seem to think all he ever does is drop stuff....haulbags, hooks, names.
I had a good trip..Highlights included Lurking Fear, Crest Jewel, and LTWF in 9hrs. Did some cragging too..but my free climbing got cut alittle short when mister butter fingers dropped that damn hook...
There's more but I feel this is enough for now.....
josh
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madturtle
May 29, 2003, 12:00 AM
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man, talk about name dropping :wink: . Glad to hear you had a good trip.
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 12:05 AM
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:shock: Yeah I guess that whole thing does kind'a sound that way huh? I was trying to give people the current "happenings" in the valley..but I guess I just sounded all.."hey look at me look who I know!!'...what an idiot!!
josh
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totigers
May 29, 2003, 12:06 AM
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no kidding and wished I was there. I've never been but it always sounds like so much fun.
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madturtle
May 29, 2003, 12:15 AM
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I wouldn't worry about it. I was just breaking balls cause I'm jealous being stuck here working while you're out climbing routes in the valley.
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moabbeth
May 29, 2003, 12:35 AM
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Nice. Yeah, I heard about the Hubers and their attempt to free Zodiac. I guess they've had some fixed lines up there all month.
Hey, I'm suprised no one has nicknamed Pete "Trundlesby" yet for that :lol: . Sorry to hear about your injury. You should kidnap Wee-wee and hold him hostage until your finger heals.
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iamthewallress
May 29, 2003, 12:54 AM
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Trundlesby is already taken by a really nice local guy.
Canadian Assasin is the nickname that some locals have given to Pete.
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coldclimb
May 29, 2003, 12:55 AM
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How about "Pitchthepitonspete?" ;) :twisted: :lol:
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extrememountaineer
May 29, 2003, 1:04 AM
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flamer...I am going to be in the Valley early tomorrow AM. I have a new 1250mm lense I am going to be trying out on El Cap climbers for the first time. Anybody you know going to be up there tomorrow? Are the Hubers still going to be working Zodiac? The lense I have is a Meade Telescope lense that I have only used for surfing photos so far and want to get some "up close and personal" pics of climbers on the Captain or other walls.
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 1:26 AM
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EXtreme,
point your lense at the nose and snap away! This nose could use some serious Sudafed...can you say Nasal congestion?
The Hubers should be working the route for awhile...at least that was what they said.
Pete and crew should be on Bermuda dunes for ALONG TIME. I heard they had a Charcoal grill and like 20lbs. of D batteries for the Ghetto blaster. Yuji might be working Lurking fear on and off. Some guys were talking about South seas when I left. hope that helps.
josh
The "Canadian Assasin"- I love it!
josh
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epic_ed
May 29, 2003, 1:53 AM
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Um, 20 lbs of D cells? You gotta be kidding me. Dear god....
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climbingcowboy
May 29, 2003, 2:48 AM
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dude Flamer how do those guys (hubers, yuji) do that thier sick truly sick!!! Sorry to hear about your finger ouch
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 5:58 PM
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Cowboy,
So true! I have know Idea how they free some of that stuff.
I was climbing up lurking fear (totally aiding!) when Yuji rapped by brushing "holds"- the guy is sick it looked so hard!
My finger is healing fine..I think I was lucky...plus I was sitting on a rock bent over taking my shoes off...so it just missed my head by like 6"s!!! Oh well bad thinmgs happen sometimes!
josh
P.S.
I also met Ammon and Catra, who are 2 cool people. I only met ammon for like 2 minutes...but I had lunch at the Deli with Catra and another girl(who's name I forgot) and I had a great time talking with catra(and the other girl!)
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epic_ed
May 29, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Curious -- what kind of hook did you get pegged with? If it was one of the Fish hooks, those muthers are beefy!
Lucky, indeed. Did you and Pete have any sort of verbal exchange afterward? :lol:
Ed
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 6:57 PM
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It was a modified cliffhanger- I'm sure glad it wasn't one of the fish jobs!
The only verbal exchange went like this....Pete to his partner(s) "I think I dropped something...but I don't know what it was"....Me to pete " you dropped a hook pete, you a**hole!" I'm not sure if he heard me. But the 10 or so people cragging at the base sure did!
I was not happy.
josh
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coldclimb
May 29, 2003, 7:01 PM
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So now the only real question left unanswered is this:
Should the hook be retired, or might it be all right since it didn't hit the hard rock, but had something soft to break its fall?
:lol: :lol:
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alpinestylist
May 29, 2003, 7:21 PM
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Hey flameski...
Greetings from the sofa!
Glad you had a good trip
B
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lambone
May 29, 2003, 7:25 PM
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Yeah, the hook should be retired, send it to me and I'll dispose of it.
Flamer, you shouldn't be so pissed, people drop shit, it's El Cap, stand under it and things can land on you...you chose to take that risk. Stand under Pete and your taking a huge risk! Just be glad it wasn't a haulbag!
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ricardol
May 29, 2003, 7:39 PM
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hehe -- hiking up to the base of el cap at night .. we heard a few pins coming down from WAY above .. its a pretty sound .. kind of like a tuning fork as it bounched along on its way down to me!..
-- ricardo
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flamer
May 29, 2003, 7:59 PM
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Hey Brent! How's the toes? When will you be back in the saddle?
lambone, yeah I agree with you about the base of El cap.
I just think it's funny how Pete puts himself up on this pedastal and then keeps doing things that prove just how much he is like the rest of us...although I didn't drop anything off Lurking Fear...lol.
josh
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yenni
May 29, 2003, 8:01 PM
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hey flamer
it was cool to meet you. Ammon and Catra are definitely awesome, two of the coolest people ever! They are both so chill for the stuff they do!! :D
I'm still jealous that you got to spend all that time there!
yen
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flamer
May 30, 2003, 12:47 AM
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Yenni,
A ha! The "other girl with Catra" makes an appearance!
It was really good to meet you as well, I had a great time talking with you and Catra.
Hopefully our paths will cross again.
josh
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extrememountaineer
May 31, 2003, 1:21 AM
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Flamer, you were right, the Nose was crowded as was the whole Big Stone. There were parties scattered all over that thing. I met Alex and Thomas in the meadow and visited for a while. Met Karl Baba at the start of Royal Arches. Took some pics of Ammon soloing Zodiac and scoping a new route. Wouldn't have known he was there if it weren't for Alex telling me. It was my first attempt at using this telescope lense and I was experimenting with all sorts of film and settings. Unknown if any will actually turn out. Took pics of people on the Salathe, Bermuda Dunes, Nose, Adrift/Reticent, Tangerine Trip, Zodiac, and the DNB of Middle Cathedral. If they turn out I will make a separate thread and try to contact the climbers to get copies to them.
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stonefiend
May 31, 2003, 3:32 AM
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i respect yuji hirayama with honor.. amazing skill and humbleness. well rounded with a very good attitude to boot. i wish the best on his free ascent of lurking fear.
t. huber kinda pissed me off.. after he dipped in my chalkbag numerous times whist bouldering.. didn't ask, he grabbed my brush out of my pocket and began brushing his holds.. asking only after he had finished brushing. i understand being elite and famous may give you a sense of importance, but fame should not eliminate your sense of humanity.
because one climbs a peice of stone, whether it be 5.6 or 5.15, shouldn't determine your worth.. you're still only climbing a f-ing rock. should it matter?.. only to those who care.
be human.
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jhwnewengland
May 31, 2003, 3:35 AM
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haha! BE HUMAN. Seriously man. Be human.
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simzboardr
May 31, 2003, 1:11 PM
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you shoulda rigged up a big sling shot and changed his name to PeltedPitonPete... after you railed him with it
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jhump
Jun 2, 2003, 5:37 PM
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I was there too. I met noone that has ever appeared in a mag and have no gossip. I did hear about some guy out on the New Jersey Turnpike. I really didn't pay this much attention because I was in California. Did you guys ever notice how big the walls are there?
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 2, 2003, 7:02 PM
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I been climbing about 20 years now and I aint no stinking big shot like flamer with a bunch of famous friends but I have noticed that every now and then somebody will drop somthing and If you are hanging out at the base of multi pitch climbs that is the risk you take. I even drop somthing myself ocasionaly. I'm sure flamer never has though, he sounds a bit too perfect to be that human. :roll:
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karlbaba
Jun 2, 2003, 7:49 PM
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Everybody drops stuff, at least on rare incidents. PTPP gets more than the usual grief when he does it because he started a whole thread about how dropping gear is lame.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12049&start=0
Here's an excerpt:
In reply to: Part of your worth as a wall climber is to end up on the summit with more gear than when you started, not less. There is never ever a legitimate excuse for either dropping gear, or not being able to retrieve it when you clean. If you believe the above paragraph to be true, then it is people like you who were put on this world to benefit people like me. Why did you drop that piece of gear? Did you get scared? Did you get lazy? Haven't you ever heard of a tether, for cryin' out loud? If you are something of a butterfingers, then maybe you ought to consider taking zero shortcuts, and keeping your gear connected to yourself at all times so you never drop it.
Pete dishes it out and Pete has to take it. Hopefully folks know that a good portion of it is tongue in cheek.
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flamer
Jun 3, 2003, 12:01 AM
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Karl,
Yup! That's pretty much how I feel about it!
Tradman,
I'm FAR from a big shot,and FAR from actually "knowing" (meeting is not knowing) any of these guys!
I do agree that if you climb(I was climbing not just "hanging out") at the base of big walls you might get stuff dropped on you.
I just think it's funny that it was the "canadian assasin". What Karl said just about sums it up.
I just figured I'd steal the thunder(for "hot Flash's") about all the "happenings" in the valley.
I just hope everybody has a much fun in the valley as I did!
josh
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catra
Jun 3, 2003, 1:15 AM
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Hi Josh-
It was great meeting you.....Glad you were able to hang out for lunch with Yen and myself....Next time you're around let me know...I will give you a pair of Montrail's!!!!
I will be back in the Valley Wed.. to train......
Yen let me know if you're around..
Catra
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wonderbread
Jun 3, 2003, 4:21 AM
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Hey Flamer, next time you're up on a wall let us know so we can start a thread bashing you.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 3, 2003, 4:38 AM
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Well flamer, If pete is running his mouth on the site and then acting the gumbi on the cliff, I guess it's his turn to eat the crow 8) Flame on :D
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flamer
Jun 3, 2003, 6:37 PM
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Hey wonder,
Are you sure you're reading the right thread? This was not intended to be a Pete bashing thread! What I said concerning Pete is true. I simply relayed my experiences (and a few cool tidbits) from the the valley. If other people want to bash him then so be it...course there are plenty of threads dedicated to just that thing....
Hi Catra! Had a great time talking with you! Hope the rest of your summer is good.
Catra is one of the few people on this site who know where the FLAMER name comes from...and it has nothing to do with"flaming" people online...
josh
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wonderbread
Jun 3, 2003, 9:19 PM
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Yep Flamer, I'm pretty sure I'm reading the right thread. This is the one where over half your posts have something to do with Pete(None positive). Go back and read over it.
Let's say I run into you next time in the Valley and come back and post here that "I saw Flamer on the easiest El Cap route, what a gumby and a name dropper, the Valley locals have taken to calling him the Wall Caterpillar." What I said was true, I simple relayed my experiences. If other people want to pick up on this and start bashing you then so be it.
Just let us know the next time you're on a wall so we can get some good cheap shots in too.
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philbox
Moderator
Jun 3, 2003, 9:23 PM
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Hey Flamer this sounds like a challenge. So how about we start a guessing game for how flamer got his name. I`ll go first, hmmm, lemme see now. Ooh, oohh, pick me sir, I think I know. does your name relate to you doing tricks like blowing great gouts of flame out of your mouth like they do at the circus. Or do you light your farts? Enquiring minds would like to know.
...Phil...
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climbhigher
Jun 3, 2003, 9:29 PM
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Hey Catra, This is Chris. We talked in the Camp 4 parking about your cazy running, a little bit. How's the running with that big lump of plastic around your arm??? I just joined the HURT list. I turned my ankle in Camp 4 and fucked up a ligament. Heading to the beach outside of Santa Cruz. See back in the Valley in 2 weeks. Cheers.
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climbhigher
Jun 3, 2003, 9:31 PM
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I heard a rumor that Pete is currying wood in his haul bag so he can have a little fire on some ledge up there. HOW retarded!!!!! if it's true. What a great way to fuck up El Cap.
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alpinestylist
Jun 3, 2003, 9:39 PM
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If history serves we have PLENTY O time to schmack talk PTPP before he returns to the ground.
Flamer...it must be because you are flamboyantly gay? Just joking amigo, I'm down with the Fahrenheit 451.
Someone quoted PTPP lipping off about dropping stuff in detail. I just wish I knew a better way to slag him. Everybody drops stuff...but if you set yourself upto fall, be prepared to take the ride.
I;m not climbing much and enjoy the ditch slander.
keep it coming
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 4, 2003, 12:33 AM
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Yea, slagging someone for dropping a hook is pretty weak . Give us some good dirt if you are going to have at it.
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sandbag
Jun 4, 2003, 12:39 AM
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Flamer = firefighter
in a former life i was a Operations Level Hazmat First responder, im not crazy enough to get into the tech level....that stuff will kill you.....
:lol:
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flamer
Jun 4, 2003, 2:28 AM
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Well this is getting interesting!
Mr. Bread or can I call you wonder?
I took your advice, I went back and read the thread. And you are right there is some PTPP bashing going on here. HOWEVER! Most of it is not by me, and what is happen's to be the direct result of my free climbing getting cut short due to the fact that PTPP drop something on me. So guess what! I have a right to be pissed!
Now You are correct in you're statement about me climbing the easiest El cap route(well depending on your opinion of the NOSE). And I have no reason to say anything about it other than this...I had a wonderful time Climbing Lurking Fear with a great partner. oh and this...I climbed Elcap a couple of weeks ago, wonder what where you doing?
If people want to start a thread bashing me that's ok. Only thing is I haven't given them TONS of reason's to. I'm sure people could find something....but it wouldn't turn into the kind of bashing session that the anti-PTPP threads did. I have dropped stuff and might again in the future!
But I've never hit anybody!! And I've never written detailed threads telling other people they are gumbi's if they do. I also don't post all kind's of BS about how I'm the best and know the "better way". I don't care if he is up on a wall, he never defends himself anyway- he seems to like being bashed!
Hey tradman, You want something more than a hook ? How about the HAUL BAG he dropped of El cap last year?
Alpinestylist, I know you love this internet shmack talk! Hopefully we can keep you entertained in your time of boredom!!
Catra, did you say free shoes??? :D
You should have seen my D7's after leaning tower!
And finally to the Fun stuff....the reason behind the Flamer tag.
First off...I AM NOT A FLAMING HOMOSEXUAL!! I have been known to have my way witht he occasional Mtn goat--But you'd have to ask MtnGEO about that- he taught me everything I know.
Sand bag is correct i am a Fireman, and it was firemen that gave me the flamer nickname. But it's not the actual reason.
Sandbag- who did you used to work for?
So any other guess's?Anybody who know's going to spill the beans??
this is getting really fun!
josh
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philbox
Moderator
Jun 4, 2003, 2:41 AM
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Sir, sir, sir, oooh, ooh, can I have another guess at picking the reason for flamers nickname/online personality name. How about you`ve got red hair.
...Phil...
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catra
Jun 4, 2003, 3:56 AM
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Hi Josh-
Yes I said free shoes...You wear the same size as me!!!!
I will tell my Montrail rep about the D7 and how they fell apart....
Chris- I remember you...I am running strong with the cast 81 miles in 6 days...I am back on track for Hardrock 100 next month...
Hey are you thinking about running HURT 100??????
We should run together when your back in the Valley....My goal is to get a bunch of dirt bag climbers to start running Ultras....I have 3 already..
Catra
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wonderbread
Jun 4, 2003, 5:07 AM
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Flamer-First off, congrats on doing LF. Although I was climbing something a few weeks ago, it wasn't the Captain, though I have been up a few routes on it, but I don't want to turn this into a wanker measuring contest. I am not pissed and I hope you aren't either, I see it as just having a little point/counterpoint discussion eh? Ergo...
You do have a right to be pissed, though only a tiny part of that pissyness should be directed at Pete. You were the one hanging out at the base(under a climbing team at that) which is a boneheaded move. Shit falls, you're lucky it was just a hook and merely a finger. Everyone knows that the base of EC is a dangerous place to be. And you have admittedly dropped things too, the fact that you have never hit anyone has nothing to do with you and everything to do with the lack of someone standing at the base under you.
Next point-Yes Pete may write in a condescending way at times, but he doesn't single someone out and bash them, especially by name. But, there seems to be a lot of Pete bashing going on here in the name of the anonymous that Pete makes fun of. Although it may be because I have done a number of walls, much of the "better way" info I've read has been quite valuable. I'm just getting a little tired of all the PTPP bashing that has been going on here as of late. Even if he does write with a lot of bombastic jingoism he has logged countless hours helping for free. I find his writing to be entertaining and he speaks from lots of experience, more than you and I combined.
Lastly, more than half of your posts have mentioned Pete, and once again not one of them said something positive. I find the "Canadian Assasin" to be atleast somewhat deragatory. Maybe it's just me, but I'm just not a fan of saying negative things about someone, especially when they can't respond. Whether he chooses to respond or not is his decision, not yours, so you are doing a lot of talking behind his back. Not cool.
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addiroids
Jun 4, 2003, 5:22 AM
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Settle down people. Geez.
Chris (climbheigher): Glad to hear you are still on the road. I had fun hanging out with you in Zion. Did you ever finish that new route by Swoop Gimp??? Hopefully we can hook up some time this summer. Early-mid August open for you for a Needles, Cal Dome, Eastern Sierras road trip, possibly Squamish??
Catra: You know how all good boxers have trainers that ride by them as they run (at least the ones in movies). You should talk to Chongo about maybe joining you on his bike. That would be 4 DB's. So do you coun't Ammon? I bet you could get Dean Potter and all the other El Cap - Half Dome linkup stars involved too. Great job on the running, and keep it up. Maybe I will meet you in October in the Valley. Tell Ammon I said hi.
Take care all and climb for yourself, not so you can slander someone else.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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kevlar
Jun 4, 2003, 7:19 AM
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HEY flamer.... I hear PTPP will drop shorts for a " hottie" are you hot enough for the DR.
I am sure he can put out your fire...if your boy can't
hey all in fun...couldn't resist.. :oops:
cheers
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flamer
Jun 4, 2003, 4:43 PM
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Philbox, Great guess!! But Nope my hairs are not red.
Wonderbread, No worries, there's no hating going on here.
I kind'a figured you were a PTPP fan and that was the reason you were so pissed. I'm not going to go on about my opinion on him.
If you read back you will notice that I have said, numerous times, that I realise climbing at the base of El Cap might mean things could fall on you. I'm not saying I was completly innocent. And I have made some deragotory remarks concerning Pete...
CATRA!!! You rule!! I wish those D7's hadn't fallen apart, they would be the best approach shoes ever! Glad to hear the cast isn't slowing you down!
Kevlar,
Yeah baby!! I'm not sure pete could handle me...he's just such a wee little man!!
josh
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tcollins
Jun 4, 2003, 4:54 PM
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My guess is he once lit himself on fire.
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alpinestylist
Jun 4, 2003, 5:45 PM
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Flamer...you know its all love.
To everyone else...I personally choose to slag Pete because in my mind
STYLE MATTERS
or lack of style as teh case maybe.
you all entertain so well...please to keep it coming.
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simzboardr
Jun 4, 2003, 6:07 PM
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I personally can't slag anyone yet, because im still the gumby lookin up at them all
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flamer
Jun 4, 2003, 7:28 PM
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tcollins- another good guess! And I may have come close to lighting myself up a time or two! But that's not it!
Simsboarder,
You are going to have a blast on leaning tower.
Ok here's a hint on the flamer tag- It involves my legs.
josh
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edge
Jun 4, 2003, 7:37 PM
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A tattoo??
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flamer
Jun 4, 2003, 7:49 PM
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DING DING DING!!!
Edge wins !!!
It's 2 tattoo's actually, I have black flames tattooed from my ankles up to about mid calf. Great guess edge!
You win- not a damn thing!
josh
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timpanogos
Jun 4, 2003, 10:19 PM
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Crap, Flammer - I'm disappointed - the ignition point should have been on the checks with the flames shooting down your legs!
puts a whole new meaning to the song with the words "Great Balls of Fire"
Chad
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climbhigher
Jun 4, 2003, 10:20 PM
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Yeah, Catra that would be very Cool. I have always been interested in Long runs. I will get in contact with you when i get back to the Valley. CHEERS. Oh Yeah, Santa Cruz is a pretty nice place. I am on my way to the beach right now.
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piton
Jun 5, 2003, 1:49 PM
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Josh
what site were you in C4. I was in 15 with the Brits, and the Hubers moved in after the 1st week. Tomas told me that it was too hot for them now, plus Alex injured his arm, so they were coming back in the fall for the send of the Zodiac.
Catra, I saw you running in the park. I yelled to you from the car.
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kevlar
Jun 5, 2003, 4:17 PM
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flamer...all in fun....does sound a little painful...getting a tattoo that is ...but then I am a sissy for pain...heck I cant take it here in the fresno area...when it reaches 104d fahrenheit I just seem to melt away
rock on
John
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simzboardr
Jun 5, 2003, 6:07 PM
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hows camp 4 in august.... and do you need to call ahead or just go?
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lambone
Jun 5, 2003, 6:15 PM
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Call ahead???
Dude...get your head outa your ass...CAMP 4 is WALK IN ONLY, allways has been, allways will be.
Seriosly simz, read up on some of the Yosemite history before you visit the place, you will appreciate it much more! Check out "Camp 4" written by Steve Roper. Classic toilet material... :wink:
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flamer
Jun 5, 2003, 6:40 PM
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Piton,
I was in site 24.
To bad about Alex's arm...Those guys made us laugh so hard! They told us the best place to sleep in C4 was the old toilet blocks on the west end. My partner is friends with Werner and all he kept saying was, "I can't believe they're sleeping where I used to shit". :lol:
And How about those leather pants Alex was cruising around in? Man he was Euro to the max!! Made me laugh!
josh
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climbingcowboy
Jun 5, 2003, 11:06 PM
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Lambone that is cool book read it twice. Catra, Climbhigher you guys are freakin crazy, I couldnt imagine running that far, hell I hate just hiking to the base of a climb, ROCK ON.
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elcapbuzz
Jun 6, 2003, 1:27 AM
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Hey Josh,
Good to meet you in the Valley. Sorry, we didn't chat a bit longer.... I'm sure you know what it's like to have tunnel vision on your latest project.
Extrememountaneer?? I'm pretty sure I know your identity. Email me. I haven't heard from you in a while. I'm not sure which day you shot me.... but, I was actually off the Zodiac. I climbed up Surgeon General from the 7th pitch of the Zod and then started up some expanding flake that hasn't been climbed. Hell, I figured since I helped fix the Huber lines... I might as well use them to "proj out". Too bad I had to go to work for a week.
PTPP?? My brother and I tried to RENAME his nickname to "DTPP".
Yep, Drop the Pitons Pete. He dropped his whole rack of pins on the Sea. Good thing Chongo had his lines fixed and someone was at the base, so he could retrieve them.
Josh, hope to see you again. Good job on the LT.
Cheers, Ammon
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ergophobe
Jun 6, 2003, 7:18 PM
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In reply to: i respect yuji hirayama with honor.. amazing skill and humbleness. well rounded with a very good attitude to boot. i wish the best on his free ascent of lurking fear.
My wife and I knew that Yuji was going to be on Lurking Fear on a particular day, so we went up with binoculars just to watch how one of the best does it. It may sound ridiculous, but I think just looking through binoculars watching him work a route will improve my climbing (mostly as a result of a certain shift in attitude and approach rather than any technique that I could witness at that distance).
As far as I know, Yuji Hiriyama did not manage to free LF during his visit, but I do know that Yuji and Nick Fowler shattered the speed record on Lurking Fear, climbing it in something like 3:04 (I think the old record was in the neighborhood of 4:30).
We also knew that Yuji and Nick were trying for the speed record, so we wanted to see that, having never seen any actual speed ascents. The one thing we learned is that it helps to be a fantastically good climber.... They managed to shave so much off the record because Yuji basically freed or French-freed every pitch, climbing with a completely anemic rack and only one three-step aider which he rarely used. We could barely see them anymore by the time they hit pitch 8, but with the largest piece on the rack being a #1 Camalot, that meant that Yuji simply ran it out for an *entire* pitch on the offwidth crack. By the time we got back to our car and drove around to the Bridal Veil area to see how they were doing, they were off the route..... Otherwise said, I think they spent as much time on the climb as I spent on the last two pitches I've done.
Tom
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yenni
Jun 6, 2003, 8:47 PM
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Catra:
How are you doing? I hope your arm is healing up nicely. :D
It was great meeting you and Ammon. Please say "hi" to him.
My next trip to the valley will be on the 16th or 17th and will stay there for a while and will have all my gear. Michael and I ordered all our stuff from outta state and saved a few hundred bucks. I'm heading out to Lover's Leap this wkend with him and a bunch of other friends. Can't wait to climb some more. 8)
What are you up to?
Josh:
How's it going? Did you have a good time out in RR's?
Isn't it a bit hot out there now?
yen
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extrememountaineer
Jun 6, 2003, 9:02 PM
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Ammon,
I shot a couple of pics of you on Thursday the 29th, late afternoon. Looked like you were at a belay station sorting gear or something. there was a party above you and to your right, possibly on Zodiac while you were exploring. I am still getting used to this darned telescope lense-almost impossible to keep steady, especially as windy as it was that day. It is a fixed f16 so had to use slow shutter speeds. Didn't get too many "sharp" pics that day even though I had a sandbag on it. Might need to hang a weight from it too. Still waiting to do the North Ridge of Conness, just stay out of trees the week before we go. Still can't believe you "decked" onto a deck. :lol:
Jody
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apollodorus
Jun 9, 2003, 8:29 AM
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JFTR, bringing firewood to burn at the Alcove was NOT retarded. There was a nice sandy spot near the edge, and the ashes disappeared with a little water the next day. It was cool. Way cool. And the smoke helped to kill the trade route stench.
What is retarded is all the "good" climbers going so fast they have to leave their trash all over the place. We wound up hauling and packing out about 30 pounds of crap from the Alcove, and that was only about half of what was there. We declined to take, or otherwise deal with, the 3 liter soda bottle full of piss that some moron left on Long Ledge. And we didn't chop out and take the numerous chicken lines from the Hollow Flake crack.
We also decided that the poorly placed bolts we found on the Salathe would remain untouched, so as to save our strength for drilling like crazy on BD.
Copperdickhead: I ran into Steve Schneider in El Cap Meadows while waiting for YOSAR to trundle the Stoveleg Crack deathblock, and he said to fix the belays as we saw fit. He also wanted to thank you for looking after his route for him while he was away, but he's back now.
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flamer
Jun 9, 2003, 2:57 PM
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Yenni,
Yup it's hot in RR. Not as hot as Vegas proper, it's alittle higher and there isn't asphalt everywhere! But I couldn't find a partner so I didn't climb anyway. Sure was nice drinking beers next to the pool though!
josh
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copperhead
Jun 9, 2003, 5:49 PM
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In reply to: We also decided that the poorly placed bolts we found on the Salathe would remain untouched, so as to save our strength for drilling like crazy on BD. Copperdickhead: I ran into Steve Schneider in El Cap Meadows while waiting for YOSAR to trundle the Stoveleg Crack deathblock, and he said to fix the belays as we saw fit. He also wanted to thank you for looking after his route for him while he was away, but he's back now.
Apollo,
Thanks for your kindness. I'm glad that you decided to be nice to the bolts on the Salathe. As for speaking to Schneider, I know that Pete talked to him earlier and was told that adding bolts to the belays was OK. I also know that Pete approached the ASCA for bolting hardware but was denied, due to the fact that the bolts would be added to the route, as well as used to replace existing bolts. If you guys would keep up on local ethics and talk to locals, you’d know that the first ascentionist doesn’t have the final say in what happens to a route, especially with regard to adding bolts. Bolts should never be added to a route unless the ENTIRE (local) climbing community reaches the consensus that it is OK. How many other locals did you guys talk to?
Congratulations on a pathetic ascent. I can’t wait to see Pete next week.
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flamer
Jun 9, 2003, 7:11 PM
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Copperhead,
Glad to see you're still around! Hadn't seen any post's from you lately, thought you got sick of it... anyway have a good trip to the valley!
josh
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alpinestylist
Jun 9, 2003, 7:11 PM
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not to diss, but just to preempt the impending schmack fest from the Dunes associates... I have the following to add.
A college buddy did the second ascent of Bermuda Dunes with his girlfriend in tow. He lead every pitch but one, freed all the OW and said that the ONE A4 pitch (the fishhead??) definetly isn't A4+! I saw pictures looked like good thin nailing.
I believe it took him 5 nights on, valley to rim, no fixing.
Later he soloed Gulf Stream, but Wally Barker had scooped him to it. He said it was nice though cuz Wally is a bigger dude than he, and he figured all the heads were good...funny stuff.
He is obviously very light though, cuz isn't there always a BETTER WAY????
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flamer
Jun 9, 2003, 7:26 PM
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HAHA!! And the plot thickens!!!
Hey Stylist, did CK DROP anything when he climbed Bermunda dunes?
stirring the pot.....
josh
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 12:59 AM
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Wow anyone who is calling copperhead stupid things is pretty pathetic! I doubt he gives a flying fuck. Good to see you post bro.
I'm not dissing the acsent but some people around here need to grow up. I do diss the adding of bolts to belays. Steve is big on free climbing so naturally he has grown soft. I think the guy has climbed .14 sport. So obviously he has spent alot of time close to good bolts. Now replaceing an old bolt is a much better idea. Lucky you didn't get shot! Hell if anyone drilled on stuff I've worked on I might shoot them. I do not understand why you would want to haul stuff to make a fire. Why not just bring some fire works?? Now that would have been pretty fun!
Fuck Bolt Adding!
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iamthewallress
Jun 10, 2003, 1:17 AM
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Index to PTPP Topic #4523: The BETTER WAY to cause a traffic jam on a trade route and guaruntee others an uncomfortable night's sleep:
From an otherwise really inspiring TR posted on rec.climbing at
http://www.climbernet.com/miscellany/climbing/salathe.html
...After the day's climbing was done, we settled in on Lung Ledge while Ben got ready to lead Hollow Flake. The plan quickly fell apart, however, since another party, consisting of "Pass the Pitons" Pete and Tom, the maker of the huge Valley Giant cams, was merging onto the Salathé from Bermuda Dunes. They were aiding (!) Hollow Flake with their huge cams, and it took them hours and hours to do it.
Ben waited patiently but finally had to give up when they informed him that they planned on taking up all the space on Hollow Flake ledge, and there'd be no room for Ben and Janet. This seemed a bit unreasonable, considering that Pete and Tom had a double portaledge EACH, but they were there first, and they decided to take advantage of it.
We made some room for Ben and Janet on Lung Ledge and all settled in for a good night's sleep (well, I kept waking up thinking that Aaron and Mitch were going to collapse the portaledge and crush me, but other than that...
Mike got to the Valley at about 2 am after flying back to Sacramento from Atlanta. He jugged the fixed lines and arrived at Lung Ledge after about 1000 feet of ascending with no sleep for over 30 hours. He was pretty wasted.
Before Mike could slow down and fall asleep, we packed up the bags and headed off to begin day two. The day started with a brief encounter with Pete and Tom on Hollow Flake ledge. They had about 450 pounds of gear, and were dragging it up the wall at a glacial pace. They were spread out all over Hollow Flake ledge- ropes, coffee brewers, hanging stoves, wine. They told Mitch that they were carrying firewood for a campfire on El Cap spire. They were very friendly, making room for us on the small ledge, shuffling their stuff around and even belaying Aaron on the first lead of the day while we got out stuff organized around them...
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 1:23 AM
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what do you think we do to all the speed demons out there? I'm sure many good free climbers wonder why we are aiding some of those pitches. But I don't understand why Pete just didn't free alot more of the route.
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iamthewallress
Jun 10, 2003, 1:29 AM
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If you profess to be a gumby and then climb like one, it's part of what is to be expected. If you unintentionally cause a CF, but are as nice and accomodating as you can be to those inconvenienced by you, more character points for you IMO. If you are the "Wall Doctor" and profess the "Better Way" and then refuse to let people sleep on the same ledge as you although you have portaledges, then you deserve ridicule.
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passthepitonspete
Jun 10, 2003, 3:53 AM
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Hi Y'all,
Ha-ha! That's funny! What Ammon fails to mention is that when I dropped my pin rack above Laura Scudders on Sea of Dreams, it was he who tied my dropped pin rack onto the end of our three tied-together ropes so that I could pull it up, thus saving myself the bother of jugging five or six hundred feet!
So anyway, I'm just sitting here nursing my sore legs from the East Ledges, and my sore hands and elbows from two weeks of drilling on the wall. Holy frig, we drilled the hell out of Bermuda Dunes, and deservedly so. I placed more bolts in the last two weeks than I think the rest of my life! Sheesh. But I think I'm beginning to "get" how to do it, so that bodes well for future bolting.
The existing bolted belays on Bermuda Dunes were total mank, so as Tom mentions above we were sure to re-equip the bolted belays [at least those that did not offer viable alternate natural protection] with at least a pair of shiny new 3/8-inchers. Big fatties, instead of those crappy quarter-inchers that fall out practically just by looking at them. We took a few pictures, which we'll publish later.
In keeping with Sartre ["on a toujours la choix...."] on many of these belays you now have a choice - you can clip the eighteen-year-old manks, you can clip our shiny new bolts, you can clip some of each, or you can clip none [not recommended by Dr. Piton.] On some you can can even use natural gear.
At any rate, the route is certainly much much safer than it used to be, before we put the new bolts in.
Bermuda Dunes took us a little longer than expected for three reasons - we were reduced from a three-man team to a two-man team, the aid climbing was much harder and more serious than I expected it to be, and most substantially, it took so frickin' long to stick in all the new bolts! [I've been eating the Breakfast of Champions - ibuprofen and coffee].
No doubt we could have climbed faster had we begun climbing before noon more often, however the final day on the wall was the single day we could motivate ourselves to begin so early, since we were usually busy drinking coffee or sleeping in.
It is amusing to note that only Karl appears to get it. You might be interested to note that my Net Worth has substantially improved since arriving in the Valley, as per usual - I have more bootied wired stoppers and pins than I can use, so come find me if you need some - I'll sell 'em cheaply.
As for dropped gear, I did pretty well [for] on this climb. I dropped a pin the first or second day when I [got] and tried to bash it in a head seam - sheesh. I'm delighted to report that no pigs were dropped, and we arrived on the summit with our load intact, though heavier by a thirty-pound Wall Flower.
Hey, I was wondering what happened to that missing hook - it's one of my favourites. Sorry about your finger, Josh. I tend to fumble a bit when I get up off the couch and climb on hooks for the first time, and I do apologize for hitting your finger! Would you be so kind as to leave me my dropped hook at "Camp 5" - the bear boxes in the centre of the Curry Village "apple orchard" parking lot - the next time you're around? Leave me a note with my name on it, and I should get it OK. Thanks, mate.
As for wandering round the base of the big wall, one really ought to wear a helmet. It's a dangerous place, if not for falling rock, but for getting hit by falling gear. [Why buy gear when it falls from the sky?] Yesterday we retrieved a beautiful waterproof REI bag, Tom found a nice HB offset and a sewn sling, and I found enough water left by bailing climbers to fully supply my upcoming solo so I don't have to carry any water up to the base [thus sparing me the effort].
And if that weren't enough, outside the grocery store this dude Scott comes up and offers me a Coffee Sponsorship with the Mariposa Coffee Company, America's Purest Coffees. [Not bad, eh? Stand by for the details and photos and stuff]
Anyway, Bermuda Dunes was STOUT aid climbing! Holy frig, the A4+ crux pitch was the REAL deal. Certainly as hard as the A5 corner on Jolly Roger on a piece-by-piece measurement, except that there were more consecutive hard placements on JR, and that on JR you would hit a ledge whereas on BD it's a clean fall. I guess that's the difference between A4+ and A5 [like, as if there needs to be one, eh?]
Anyway, that pitch scared the livin' bejeepers out of me - definitely PDH/DFU with 80-foot-plus fall potential if you do happen to FU. It took about a dozen RURP/beak/pecker placements along with two or three heads and a couple stacked blades. [Dang, my fingers get sweaty just thinking about it. What is wrong with me, anyway?! I actually ENJOY that stuff, at least afterwards..... I'm too scared at the time to like it..... At least I think I enjoy it. Either way, climbing big valls is just a different kind of suffering.]
Oh yeah, I took a couple falls. The second one deposited me practically in Tom's lap and narrowly missed my Crab-O-Ledge - a twenty-foot-plus Factor One off the Fish Head Pitch that kinda woke us up. But the first fall was even more scary - a head popped and I fell on a rivet hanger which broke! Man, I ought to make a post about that one.
Anyway, I think I used up my Fear Quota on the Dunes, and I certainly depleted my wall patience, so I'm afraid I'm going to bail on my announcement to solo Gulf Stream, and instead I wanna solo something easier. So you can look for me soloing up on Lost In America next week. I hope to solo Gulf Stream this fall. [Consider this my Amended Big Announement, in case anyone actually cares......]
Thanks to everyone who bought me beers, pizza, coffees, schlepped my loads, fed me burritos, gave us bolts, and took the time to drop by and say hello. I'll try to name everyone in person, but I'll save it for after I get home. Assuming I ever actually get home - I'm afraid I'm having too much fun at the moment. Fortunately, my employer feels precisely the same way, so maybe I'll just have to stay longer.
Cheers,
DTSHP ["Drop The Sky Hook" Pete]
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2003, 4:24 AM
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Flamer said...
In reply to: The yosemite locals seem to think all (PTTP) ever does is drop stuff....haulbags, hooks, names.
right after he said...
In reply to: The Hubers(alex and Thomas) are Freeing ZODIAC!!! I shared a site with them in C4 (and a few beers, those Germans can drink!) and here is what they told me..They said they had freed all the moves and were working on linking them and dialing in the crux pitchs...then in a couple of weeks they will be going for a red point attempt- from the ground...they seemed pretty confident. They also told me that Leo Houlding and crew were trying to free New Jersey Turnpike...and I saw them up there ALOT. I met Yuji Hirayuma who was working on freeing Lurking Fear...he showed my partner how he'd glued his finger nails to his fingers so he wouldn't rip them off on the incredibily small edges!
(Emphasis mine)
Hahaha. I love it.
Anyway, whilst in the Valley I met Wally Barker, Evo (??)- a member of Leo Houlding's crew, Sue McDevitt, Cedar Wright, a few rc.com'ers, and I even saw a girl toprope a 5.3 on Swan Slab. Like, total wow!! Did I drop any names on any fingers?
Carry on, kiddies!
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passthepitonspete
Jun 10, 2003, 4:40 AM
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I met me.
[Damn, I'm bitchin'....]
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 4:54 AM
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In reply to: Anyway, I think I used up my Fear Quota on the Dunes, and I certainly depleted my wall patience, so I'm afraid I'm going to bail on my announcement to solo Gulf Stream, and instead I wanna solo something easier. So you can look for me soloing up on Lost In America next week.
I think you are less bitchen than you seem to think you are! HAHAHAHAHA. Just kiding dude.
Pete, why didn't you pull the existing bolts and just enlarge the hole? And put in a 3/8"er? That pitch sounds sweet! Beaks are way awesome. Damn I can't wait for the valley!
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timpanogos
Jun 10, 2003, 5:04 AM
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Pete,
Don't forget, 4 of those peckers and 5 rups are mine - you also got off with several other of my heads/pins
Chad
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elcapbuzz
Jun 10, 2003, 5:25 AM
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Pete!!
You must have bumped your head and did some serious damage to your brain cells.
That was not ME at the base clipping your dropped pitons in. That was Fernando... a good friend of mine. My brother and I were straight across from you on the PO.
We yelled over to you, asked you what you dropped and then summoned Fernando to HELP you.
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apollodorus
Jun 10, 2003, 8:44 AM
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This topic, and many similar, crack me up because all these twenty-younguns rant and rave about PTPP (and my) ineptitude on the wall. Only will time will tell, but the smart money is that most of them will be permanently on the couch by the time they're 30+ years old. PTPP and I are both over 40 and still going up.
"You are either on the wall, or you are off the wall."
Any detractors out there willing to admit they've bailed from a wall? PTPP and I haven't yet.
"He has a funny swing, but at the end of the round his card demoralizes and convinces the others of his ability." - Dr. Johnson
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apollodorus
Jun 10, 2003, 10:31 AM
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In reply to: If you guys would keep up on local ethics and talk to locals, you’d know that the first ascentionist doesn’t have the final say in what happens to a route, especially with regard to adding bolts. Bolts should never be added to a route unless the ENTIRE (local) climbing community reaches the consensus that it is OK. How many other locals did you guys talk to?
JFTR, it was one of the "locals" who gave us the bolts because some dickhead's paranoid delusions caused the ASCA to decide that the impending e-mail clutter wasn't worth the hassle.
And the magnanimous local provider of bolts is more "local" than me, PTPP, you and your closest six friends put together.
Get a life, do a route, or just get out of the way.
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elcapbuzz
Jun 10, 2003, 6:18 PM
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Tom,
Pete loves controversy. He has told this to me personally. He's good at creating waves.
I can't believe you are getting sucked in to it.
I can't believe I am either.
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drkodos
Jun 10, 2003, 6:28 PM
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In reply to: Any detractors out there willing to admit they've bailed from a wall? PTPP and I haven't yet.
I am a distractor and I've had to bail a couple of times....
weather.
bad punters.
too freaked.
If you haven't bailed from a wall, it means you haven't done very many, nor have you been pushing your limits.
Just because you aren't smart enough to know when to come down.....hope I don't have to come rescue you when dogma keeps you up there when you shouldn't be.
The Better Way?.....to be a rectal pore.
I don't even own a couch, and I'm in my 40's.
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iamthewallress
Jun 10, 2003, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: hope I don't have to come rescue you when dogma keeps you up there when you shouldn't be.
If the schitt ever really hits the fan for these guys, Tom will be in Pete's haulbag, and Pete will be drilling his way out of trouble.
Tom, I've been someone's belay be-otch and summited, and I've bailed when I was responsible for taking care of everything myself. I felt like the latter was better style and took much more know-how on my part. I've summited under my own power too, but I think bailing actually took more good judgement. Go climb a few walls without Pete with time constraints and don't haul 450 lbs of 'just in case' supplies, and then come back and try insulting the rest of us with your impressive climbing resume.
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kevlar
Jun 10, 2003, 6:49 PM
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oops...did I enter the wrong room....sure smells like " pooopy diapers" abounds in here...
:cry: :cry: hopefully it will soon be nap time...cause there sure seems to be allot of crying in here :cry: :cry:
"don't hate...congratulate"
1 wall or 100...I agree...bailing is not the issue...i think it appears to be size
Tom...relax an go easy on the gas...rock on an enjoy the walls...good luck with all till you make it back to the valley...
I have come to realize some must lower others cause they are unable to reach the upper areas anyway else...maybe when the smoke clears we can realize it is all about the fun an yes the challenge...much can be accomplished with an open mind...not an empty one.
May all be safe....cheers
john
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billcoe_
Jun 10, 2003, 7:29 PM
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Yup. I'm staying out of this. I can see it's going to shortly degenerate into a slamfest of who has the longest penis. Since I already know thats not me by a long shot - I'm outta here.
Like reading the "positive" things though.
:oops:
Bill
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flamer
Jun 10, 2003, 8:20 PM
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Climbsomething,
Where have you been? Did you not notice that this was brought up on like the second or third post?? Thought I answered it? And it was, kind'a supposed to be a poke at myself as well....but you are the one in the valley now(or maybe back?) so please tell us all what we're missing!!
Pete, sorry not in the valley anymore, you can't have it back.
Certain valley locals thought it would be more fitting for me to hit you with it, or hike to the top of El cap and piss off...I figured I'd just keep the hook.
Hope you enjoy lost in america...maybe you should ask for beta...I know at least one RC.comer that has done it....notice I'm not dropping any names this time :wink:
josh
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2003, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: Climbsomething, Where have you been? Did you not notice that this was brought up on like the second or third post?? Thought I answered it? And it was, kind'a supposed to be a poke at myself as well....but you are the one in the valley now(or maybe back?) so please tell us all what we're missing!!
Um, I've been in Yosemite, not piddling with my pee-pee with my hook-bruised fingers. Yeah, I see you've already been called to task, but why can't I join in too? As you have shown yourself, "once" is not the limit to rail on somebody.
What can I tell you about Yos-might? Not a damn thing. I went and I climbed and made new friends and had a good time. That's what garden-variety nobodies like me do. I didn't get any inside tips from Hot Flashers, or get out the ruler, and I didn't wrap my lips around the throbbing shaft of petty wall-rat snivveling. I highly recommend you people just enjoy your own experiences and not get your granny panties in a bunch over other (old-hat at that) mythical figures of internet lore and hate. Seriously, y'all.
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euroford
Jun 10, 2003, 9:37 PM
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this whole 'yos culture' thing just kills the whole vibe for me. its worse than freakin high school man!
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2003, 9:42 PM
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No shizz, euro! High Skool... some people are hung up on sitting at the Cool Kids Table in the cafeteria. But some of us just want to eat our lunch! :P :x
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euroford
Jun 10, 2003, 9:46 PM
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i have to say, i've not been out to yos, and the climbing sounds stellar.... but i really don't feel the need to even go! threads like this have just made the whole experience sound like "yosemite the big wall climbing gym".
i'm planning a trip for alaska this year...
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sspssp
Jun 10, 2003, 9:52 PM
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In reply to: "yosemite the big wall climbing gym".
Yep, its just one lousy gym that I highly recommend everyone stay away from.
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timpanogos
Jun 10, 2003, 10:09 PM
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I did the Prow with Pete a few weeks back. I learned Pete’s systems from the start and had practiced them on my own – they make sense to me – they work – they are safe. Pete and I made great partners – we worked well together – and I had a great time with him. Pete thanks for partnering with me for the fantastic ascent of Washington column (were the avalanches cool or what!). As an individual – I meet Pete personally; I climbed with him for 3 days, and another nasty days decent. Pete is good people. Based on my own personal experience, I would climb with Pete anytime, and recommend him to anyone as a partner and teacher.
It has been said – “what happens on the wall, stays on the wall” when it comes to the discovery of personal quarks that may come out under pressure on the wall.
I would also like to suggest that like the old saying goes – “until you have walked a mile in their shoes” , or in this case, until we have toiled up close with another individual on the wall, maybe we should not be making judgments about the character of those individuals.
I hope to have the opportunity to partner with others on this site – and I can only hope that the personal experience as well as the task accomplished will match that which I had with Pete.
Once again, web persona, distractor band wagon aside – Pete is good people.
Chad
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gawd
Jun 11, 2003, 1:52 AM
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You know I want to post something here, but I think that I will keep to myself.
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alpinelynx
Jun 11, 2003, 4:13 AM
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In reply to: I met me. [Damn, I'm bitchin'....]
dude, c'mon, you tuck your green t-shirt into your not-so-matching-as-to-annoy green sweat pants and hang a faded stuft animal off the collar of your shirt. You strut about like a rooster and hold court on the Deck with your horde of adulators. It reminds me of a really bad Neil Diamond song or something. You clog routes like the pores on a 17 year old and then brag about your 30 pound bag of shit.
"I tend to fumble a bit when I get up off the couch and climb on hooks for the first time"
bwah-ha ha that's a freaking classic, considering you are now asking for the piece back. This MAY be one example of why some people see you coming and turn to walk the other way. I'm also really glad to hear that you pounded bolts into a route I won't ever be getting on because I am a Gumby. But then, I've never really dropped anything on my 5.7 projects but have occasionally gotten tangled up at belays and done stupid things because I am just another joe climber learning. However, you claim to be the Wall Doctor, proclaiming the opulence of your ghetto rigs; shouldn't you be beyond that?
but I digress.
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climbsomething
Jun 11, 2003, 4:30 AM
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Alpinelynx- why don't you have a look at that signature of yours? The one that says:
In reply to: Can we please just talk about climbing?
And, like, get a sense of ha-ha. If Pete's quote isn't tongue-in-cheek, then I don't know what is. He knows better than anybody what a frickin' tool he is.
*spurt* Jesus H. Christ on a stick! WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE? is there nothing better to do then put orgasmic force behind flaming Pete all day, every day?
I feel a rant coming on... :shock: :roll:
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alpinelynx
Jun 11, 2003, 4:51 AM
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In reply to: is there nothing better to do then put orgasmic force behind flaming Pete all day, every day?
its fun and I am a bitch. so what.
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coyoteblues
Jun 11, 2003, 7:10 AM
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In reply to: It has been said – “what happens on the wall, stays on the wall” when it comes to the discovery of personal quarks that may come out under pressure on the wall.
I also don't agree that PM's are "sacred" so don't send me anything you must keep private. Personally I reserve the right to be grown up enough to decide for myself what gets made public or not. If you don't know a person well enough to know they can be trusted with what you tell them, then you'd better not tell them.
In reply to: I would also like to suggest that like the old saying goes – “until you have walked a mile in their shoes” , or in this case, until we have toiled up close with another individual on the wall, maybe we should not be making judgments about the character of those individuals.
(The management has got to love the boost to site stats this kind of thread generates; just coming out of a mini retirement to do my part.)
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punk
Jun 11, 2003, 4:25 PM
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Well interesting… climbers are the biggest gossip…it is incredible to how much sh!t u can dish on each other…to all I would say “you do what you do and I do what I do” who the hell cares…take what you need from others experiences…but don’t turn this for excrement test :shock:
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dsafanda
Jun 11, 2003, 4:50 PM
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You know, the title of this post has always been "...here's the current gossip!"
Isn't it sort of silly to make the choice to click on this thread and then complain that it's just a bunch of gossip?
Look, there is a "scene" in Yosemite but you can still go there and climb the best rock in the world with out dealing with any of it. Different people like to experience Yosemite in different ways. So what?
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punk
Jun 11, 2003, 5:21 PM
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gossip is OK...but sh!t throwing is another I think it turn to the later :(
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flamer
Jun 11, 2003, 6:36 PM
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Have to agree with what dsafanda said.
I have severasl friends that couldn't make it out top the valley this year and love the scene...this thread was for them and people like them.
I know we all love the chance to bash Pete....so anytime his name is mentioned it's a flash point for slapping his pee-pee.
climbsomething, are you really the bitter chick? You sure sound like her....and I kind'a figured you were a PTPP fan. Do you read R&I and Climbing? Cause guess what....hot flash's and all that crap is the same gossipy stuff....
All this internet crap is just that...crap...It's simply something to laugh at when I'm not out climbing, biking, dropping names :wink: If you can't take it for what it's worth then WHY ARE YOU HERE???
josh
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xanx
Jun 15, 2003, 3:38 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Any detractors out there willing to admit they've bailed from a wall? PTPP and I haven't yet. I am a distractor and I've had to bail a couple of times.... weather. bad punters. too freaked. If you haven't bailed from a wall, it means you haven't done very many, nor have you been pushing your limits. Just because you aren't smart enough to know when to come down.....hope I don't have to come rescue you when dogma keeps you up there when you shouldn't be. The Better Way?.....to be a rectal pore. I don't even own a couch, and I'm in my 40's.
just wondering... if PTPP hasn't been pushing his limits (on Jolly Roger and Reticent), then to where do you propose he go to "push his limits"? maybe solo an A5? that's pretty much all that is left...
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flamer
Jun 15, 2003, 3:22 PM
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xanax,
In your profile you state that you've been climbing a little over a year, and you mostly just boulder in the gym.
What do you know about big wall limits?
I know It sounds like limits are being pushed...but do you know the details of the actual ascents? Do you know anything about style...especially as it relates to climbing walls??
just curious....
josh
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wonderbread
Jun 16, 2003, 4:26 AM
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Flamer,
In your profile it appears that you have done two of the easiest big walls in Yose, and you mostly climb moderate trad routes.
What the F do you know about big wall limits?
I know you want to talk shit like you're a big boy, but what secret details of Pete's ascents are the rest of us missing?
What do you know about style? Especially as it pertains to climbing hard walls, (ie not LF and WFLT)? Just curious...
As far as I can tell you've just hit the mouthy adolescent years of climbing when you think you are finally getting good and have the need to cut down everyone else to make yourself feel better. Climbing age 13. Have fun with your middle school gossip. "And OMG don't sit next to Jimmy at lunch, he's not one of the cool kids anymore."
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apollodorus
Jun 16, 2003, 4:40 AM
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Does anybody know what happened to the #6 Friend that came off the top of the Ear a day or so after PTPP dropped his hook? It looked like it landed in the clearing at the base of the Dihedral. Did anybody find it?
On a pound-for-pound basis, a big cam like that should logically stir up more dropped gear rants than a hook ever could. But, I haven't heard anything about it.
But, I guess the focus isn't on what was dropped, but on who dropped it.
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karlbaba
Jun 16, 2003, 10:29 AM
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If you made the cam, you are allow to drop the cam.
The Lord giveth, and the Lord taketh away
peace
karl
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simzboardr
Jun 16, 2003, 10:54 AM
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How bout we all just stop yapping about pointless bumblebee tuna and go climb. Ever since the weather got better up here ive been hittin the cliffs not bitchin on this website. Seriously guys, this thread is just showing how immature a lot of you really are. Its cool talking about what people are climbing, but i didn't know that negativity and climbing go together. Instead of bitching at each other why can't you just simply applaud some sweet stuff that people climb and shut up about it.
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flamer
Jun 16, 2003, 7:14 PM
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Wonderbread,
In your profile you don't have anything!
You sound like a PU**Y who just wants to pick a fight!
And I'll tell you what....I've climbed 7 big walls in Yosemite and Zion. Having been even close to a big wall would give me more business talking about style then someone who admit's all they do is boulder in the gym.
Of course you could just be another guy sucking Pete's left nut...like so many others...
Now of course you might have seen more in my profile if alot of it hadn't been erased recently...
Of course any punter can climb WFLT onsite in 9 hrs....course it would have been more like 6 if I hadn't been for 2 of the coolest swedish guys I've ever met...
And it could be that some of us out here don't want to climb walls in bad style...so we wait until everything falls in place to do it "right". As far as being 13 and worrying about the "cool" people....I don't care...this is the internet, land of talking trash and having an alter ego....course if I met you and you were the d**K you seem to be...you might just walk away with a bloody nose...
Of course I never really said I know anything about it now did I?
I Have my opinion's as does everyone else...If you don't like them....TOUGH SH*T!!
josh
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philbox
Moderator
Jun 16, 2003, 11:25 PM
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So Flamer why don`t you tell us what you really think, let it all out, it will do you good. :lol: :lol: :lol:
...Phil...
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flamer
Jun 16, 2003, 11:49 PM
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Phil,
Thanks for making me laugh at myself...I needed it!
Hey Simzboarder,
Being a new guy to climbing big walls, when You PM'd Me asking for info on WFLT did I talk any kind of smack to you?? Did I answer every question you had? Did I do anything but encourage you to climb the wall, and have fun doing it?? Did I ever call you a "Big wall Theorist"?
And by the way....I hope you have a hell of a good time on the route!! It's a classic!
josh
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gawd
Jun 16, 2003, 11:55 PM
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xanx
on all the harder climbs pete has participated on he had better partners then he. though from what i know he cause more issues with his piss poor ideas on what is the better way.
and adollppuhs(or whatever) cause the cam didnt hit anyone. that is why it was not a big deal.
pete is a loser and i am sure he would even tell you so himself, if his has was not so far up his ass and adplohourous wasnt bust giving him the canadian bacon reach around!
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wonderbread
Jun 17, 2003, 4:42 AM
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Big ups on the childish rant Flamer. You are giving me a good laugh.
You probably do know more about style than someone who just boulders in the gym, so why don't you answer his question instead of saying he's a gumby who doesn't deserve an answer from such an awesome climber as yourself? You were a total prick to xanx, he asked a simple fucking question, so answer it instead of cutting him down.
You are a tool, threatening me over the internet, that's proud...You are acting 13, grow up, moron.
And that is so dope giving out beta to another aspiring wall climber and then braggin about it. I answered his PM's too, but then again I don't need to bring that up to justify cutting down another.
Wonder "faster than you" Bread
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flamer
Jun 17, 2003, 5:50 PM
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Wonder"dumber than you" bread,
Threaten you over the internet? Seems to me that I said If you were the D*ck you appear to be, and for your sake I truly hope you're not.
He did not ask a simple question he used sarcasm to state that someone else was wrong. And I'm not bragging. Simply pointing out that, no matter what you think or say, I don't treat people (who are asking for info. or honest beta) like you are trying to imply that I do.
The only person that really jumped in on this and cut someone down, in the first place, was you.
So guess what? F**K YOU!!! I don't care what you think and I don't care who you are!
Hugs and kisses,
josh
P.S.
WOW! Did you see the Hubers time on the Zodiac?? That's so fast!!
Getting back to the original reason behind this thread...what else is going down in the valley???
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scottcody
Jun 17, 2003, 7:00 PM
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In reply to: Getting back to the original reason behind this thread...what else is going down in the valley???
I don't know... but man was THAT a way to spend my lunch hour. The reading was absolutely riveting. :roll:
Thanks to this thread, I now see the attraction to doing remote big walls. :shock:
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ricardol
Jun 17, 2003, 7:36 PM
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here is a hint for alot of people on this thread..
use the killfile ..
.. one of the best features on this board ..
-- ricardo
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flamer
Jun 18, 2003, 1:18 AM
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I think it all boils down to effort.....It takes alot of time and effort just to get to Baffin. Or even somewhere closer, like tehpite(sp?) dome in Seqouia. Most of us might think about it but don't want to go through the months of planning and the expense to go too these places. Which makes me respect the people that do that much more!
josh
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wonderbread
Jun 18, 2003, 1:53 AM
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Whatever, Flamer. It's all there to read. Maybe you'll get through this adolescent stage soon. Hopefully your pimples aren't too bad and your voice stops cracking soon.
Alpine walls are great, no one for miles and a super rewarding summit, but then again there would be no deli to hang out at and no one to gossip with. Which apparently is really important to some.
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flamer
Jun 18, 2003, 3:22 AM
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Wonderbread,
You are so much better then me!!
I think I love you!!
So seriously, what is the most remote wall you've done?
josh
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micahmcguire
Jun 18, 2003, 3:49 AM
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right on dude, I just got back home from yosemite as well, saw the bro's on the zodiac, along with a bunch of other parties all over el cap. mid may, what a time to be in yosemite!
PS-wonderbread and flamer, you guys rock. end of round one, start of round two, terribly sorry to interrupt -- DING!
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alpinestylist
Jun 18, 2003, 4:17 PM
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why aren't all the boyz schmacking en route on remote big walls?
Don't they have quokka watching them?
Where is BURT...I'm sure he could tell us a SERIOUS answer.
I don't take a phone, but I do have a 4 inch bong in my remote wall kit.
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kevlar
Jun 18, 2003, 4:28 PM
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DING>>>>>>
I wanna see the girls walking the perimeter of the ring with the sign telling us what round we are in....wooooohoooooo
rock um sock um
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brutusofwyde
Jun 18, 2003, 11:56 PM
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In reply to: I think it all boils down to effort.....It takes alot of time and effort just to get to Baffin. Or even somewhere closer, like tehpite(sp?) dome in Seqouia. Most of us might think about it but don't want to go through the months of planning and the expense to go too these places. Which makes me respect the people that do that much more! josh
Actually, I'm considering heading into Tehipite next month. On a recon. Tehipite doesn't take months of planning. Nor does Castle Rock Spire, South Face Lone Pine Peak, or many other of the huge backcountry walls in the Sierra. Very little expense, either, unless you're risking stashing gear, hiring a pack mule, or need boat access.
And there are lots of folks out there doing these things: E.C., Craft, Milktoast, Nettle, Smrz, Thau, Brennan, Harrington, Leversee, and quite a few other folks. A quick perusal through the Fiddler/Moynier guide, Secor or even AAJ lets you know that there is plenty going on in the outback. And most of those folks aren't even talking or publishing about their favorite, "secret" areas.
All these things take is just doing it. Just showing up and doing it. Effort, yes. Spending 7-14 days humping gear, hammering, hauling, drilling, scraping, humping gear, cleaning horrendously loose rock, brush and ant infested cracks; is a lot of work. For most folks the work isn't worth the reward. The ones who find the reward in that sort of thing are the ones that are out there doing it. Over and over and over again.
Brutus
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philbox
Moderator
Jun 19, 2003, 12:55 AM
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I`ve done one remote wall in the jungles of northern New South Wales. I`d like to do another up in the wilds of Papua New Guinea. It`s called the Hindenberg Wall, it runs for about 50 kilometres and is up to 900 metres high. All limestone and in places pretty much overhung for the entire height. The only way in is via a helicopter or a three week jungle trek. From what I can make out this is a virgin wall mainly due to how remote it is.
...Phil...
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flamer
Jun 19, 2003, 3:19 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I think it all boils down to effort.....It takes alot of time and effort just to get to Baffin. Or even somewhere closer, like tehpite(sp?) dome in Seqouia. Most of us might think about it but don't want to go through the months of planning and the expense to go too these places. Which makes me respect the people that do that much more! josh Actually, I'm considering heading into Tehipite next month. On a recon. Tehipite doesn't take months of planning. Nor does Castle Rock Spire, South Face Lone Pine Peak, or many other of the huge backcountry walls in the Sierra. Very little expense, either, unless you're risking stashing gear, hiring a pack mule, or need boat access. And there are lots of folks out there doing these things: E.C., Craft, Milktoast, Nettle, Smrz, Thau, Brennan, Harrington, Leversee, and quite a few other folks. A quick perusal through the Fiddler/Moynier guide, Secor or even AAJ lets you know that there is plenty going on in the outback. And most of those folks aren't even talking or publishing about their favorite, "secret" areas. All these things take is just doing it. Just showing up and doing it. Effort, yes. Spending 7-14 days humping gear, hammering, hauling, drilling, scraping, humping gear, cleaning horrendously loose rock, brush and ant infested cracks; is a lot of work. For most folks the work isn't worth the reward. The ones who find the reward in that sort of thing are the ones that are out there doing it. Over and over and over again. Brutus
I agree with you whole heartily! I was primarily talking about Place's like Baffin and pakistan when I was talking about months of effort. I think you are right when you say" for most folks the work isn't worth the reward".
In fact , and as I said before, I have tremendous respect for the folks who do put forth this effort. And It's obvious that you folks are out there, but the Majority will always stick to the big rock by the road...
Doesn't it always seem like the minority that has the most fun?
josh
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climbsomething
Jun 19, 2003, 3:45 AM
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In reply to: DING>>>>>> I wanna see the girls walking the perimeter of the ring with the sign telling us what round we are in....wooooohoooooo rock um sock um
I also think now would be a good time for apollodorus' creepy kung-fu baby animation...
8)
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flamer
Jun 19, 2003, 4:01 AM
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HOLY SH*T!! I laugh so hard every time I see that kung-fu baby of apollo"s!!
Sorry kids I'm done with Wonder....
Now I want to hear more about The remote walls some of you have done...Brutus would you share a story or 2? Having read some of dingus's stuff I'd like to hear more....
Maybe a different thread is in order?
josh- who is still laughing at himself...
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rrrADAM
Jun 19, 2003, 3:50 PM
Post #134 of 209
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Hee Yah !!! I love that .gif also Tom.
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kevlar
Jun 19, 2003, 4:17 PM
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WIOW.......
That is what appollodorus...looked like when I woke him up sleeping in the back of his gas smelling car...he pulled open the door an did the exact moves...till he got some fresh air... :shock:
Tom you rock ... enjoy...an get a new gas can... :(
rock on
John
ps...climbsomething....ty for the great laugh...but nothing beats seeing you an the Dr. by the bear boxes...that is a sight I will never forget...just joking... :shock:
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climbingcowboy
Jun 19, 2003, 6:56 PM
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Well back to the topic since I'm no where near a good enough climber to enter this thrashing debate,
I bailed off my first attempt at a bigwall route but should be back later this year to make up for it. Also whatched these guys do the Reticent wall through this climbers scope in the meadow. It was so cool to watch them do the A5 pitch it was hook mpve after hook move, above a ledge, HOLY FREAKIN S_IT that was bad arse. I got to meet Natec and Crap and there friends Nate and Shera, cool people, also met Pete, and of course Ed (up2top) my partner really cool guy and safe. Hopfully I'll get to meet more of ya later on this year.
Late Geoff
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dsafanda
Jun 19, 2003, 7:23 PM
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Was sorting gear in ElCap Meadow yesterday after getting off of LT. A couple was sitting behind us with a large telescope. A overheard them say "oh look...it looks like he's broken down is ledge and has started moving." I thought this was strange because it was 12:30 pm. Who on earth is just starting their day on ElCap? They offered a peek through thier lens. What do I see? High on Lost in America was a lone climber and Canadian flag portaledge swinging in the wind. ;)
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flamer
Jun 19, 2003, 7:37 PM
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Hey cowboy,
What route did you try?
Don't sweat bailing, just chalk it up to experience! You'll get it next time!
josh
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climbingcowboy
Jun 20, 2003, 3:36 AM
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we tried the Prow, many factors caused us to bail, we didnt get started till like 2:30 due to a party ahead of us wich put us a day behind so we had to walk back out to move our campsite DOH!!, and among otherr things the term no sac comes to mind. I'm not sweating it to much though I'm going to go back and knock it out later this year if all goes right and i can pick up a ledge. I need to work on getting my hauling style dialed in and build up my arms for jugging.
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pbjosh
Jun 20, 2003, 4:58 AM
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climbingcowboy - don't need arms for jugging, honest. Work on getting your daisy length figured out and feet oriented into the correct stuff. On super steep put both aiders on the bottom ascender. On less steep stuff (like feet banging into wall or slabby even) one aider on either ascender. Seriously shouldn't be a workout if you figure out the spacing. Hauling on the other hand, that's a workout almost no matter what.
josh
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tenn_dawg
Jun 20, 2003, 5:08 AM
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Seriously, look into the frog system.
I've used it for jugging in caves forever, and I'll stand by it. It's not great for slabby jugging, but it works. Don't bother with buying a Croll, use whatever you have and rig it however it works. If you do it right, it's all in your legs and back, you're only balancing against the rope with your arms.
Travis
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climbingcowboy
Jun 20, 2003, 5:27 AM
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I dont why maybe I was just hurrring and using bad style, It was a lower angle jug and my arm was getting tired I was using the jug and gri technique. I've done it on overhanging stuff and never got tired but on the low angle i dont think i was using my leg enough.
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tenn_dawg
Jun 20, 2003, 5:38 AM
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Well,
Unless you're cleaning, Jug and Grigri is a pretty inefficient system. I did a 180' freehanging jug in a cave once using that, and it was terrible. Try spinning the Jug around and grabbing the rope above it resting the heel of your hand on the top of the jug. Levering off the rope may help you out a little. Jugging systems are all about experimentation, adjusting, and finding out what works best for you though. Some people swear by some wierd systems (ever seen the ropewalker?)
Travis
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flamer
Jun 20, 2003, 4:03 PM
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Cowboy,
The Prow is a great route! You were going to do it without a portaledge?? That would kind'a suck! There are place's to bivi without one but I can only think of one that would be real good...
Good luck next time...
josh
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alpinelynx
Jun 20, 2003, 9:56 PM
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wow, people still climb in the valley during the summer..? (way too hot for this wimp) Soloing remote walls ala Mike Libecki sounds nice to me, except the expense. I've seen a lot of rock in the high sierras lately that have my eyebrows perked. Even some well established single day super fun moderate free climbing on beautiful granite with nobody around for miles even on saturday afternoon.
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climbingcowboy
Jun 21, 2003, 2:37 AM
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Flamer,
Naw I was doing it with Up2top and he has a double ledge.
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hans
Jun 21, 2003, 3:07 AM
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Just back from the Valley. We bailed off the Prow, too (Tuesday) - must have just missed you, Cowboy. Great learning experience. I'll be ready next time. The jugging was getting to me too (as was the altitude). We were alone on the route for two days. Six or eight parties were on SF, and one on Re-Animator.
Spent all day Wednesday trying to locate a bottle of mosquito juice in the park.
Around noon on Thursday, from El Cap Meadow, I spotted some dude about to top out on Lost in America, messing around with a huge bundle of paper bags tied onto a 30' cord. There were some 8 or 10 parties on the Nose, and three or four others topping out on different routes on El Cap's west face.
I finally got the balls to try soloing, and had a lot of fun on the first pitch of the Salathe. I need to get more efficient, but can't wait to do some more.
I also had my first Camp 4 experience, which was interesting and fun. Lots of cool people. I'd like to have met some more RC.com'ers, though. Next time you see me cruising around wearing my Los Osos cap, please say "Hello."
-Hans
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climbingcowboy
Jun 21, 2003, 3:22 AM
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Hans,
Wich Tuesday we were up there on the 10th.
Los Osos eh? dude i grew up in Santa Maria, we used to take are horses out to Monta de Oro all the time, I would surf Hazards after work alot.
geoff
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melonhead
Jun 21, 2003, 12:39 PM
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Hey Climbingcowboy,
Maybe I'll run into you in the Valley in the Fall time. Go back and kick some butt. As for needing a ledge, I have a double for sale. Look in the used gear forum.
Stay cool.
Melon
:P
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hans
Jun 21, 2003, 4:22 PM
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We were up there on the 16th and 17th. -Hans
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epic_ed
Jun 23, 2003, 7:00 AM
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Just got back...Cowboy, you da man...had a blast...learned a lot...summitted NOTHING...still alive...more later...
I'll be changing my handle to "Epic Ed".
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climbingcowboy
Jun 23, 2003, 7:14 AM
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EPIC ED aka the father of all sherpas. What did you guys end up messing around on after I left?
You got my stickclip? Man I had a blast even though we didnt make it, I look foward to coming out to AZ and climbing. I climbed all day everyday in the Sequias after I left the Valley got on some awesome trad routes.
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passthepitonspete
Jun 27, 2003, 9:53 PM
Post #153 of 209
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It is a source of endless amazement and amusement that the #1 Most Viewed Topic in the History of RockClimbing.com is a flame about me.
As I was off on yet another fun adventure, climbing Bermuda Dunes with Tom and then soloing Lost in America, you guys were wasting time on this post.
What happened? Now that I'm home, you stop writing? What's wrong with you? Are you merely a bunch of non-climbing p*ssies with nothing better to do than type away on your computers?
Those of you most vocal [and you know who you are] are hereby awarded membership in the Dr. Piton Get A Life Club.
Someday - just once in my lifetime - I would love it if one of you detractors actually had the balls to come up to me and say something in person! Not ONE PERSON has ever done this! I think I'll faint if and when this ever comes to pass. Funny how your bollocks shrivel when you step away from your computer screen, and might actually have to meet the object of your flaming face to face.
In the meantime, please let me offer my thanks to the literally dozens of people who schlepped pigs, gave me rides, bought me beer and pizza and bolts, and just generally hung out and had fun. Somewhere I've got a running list, so I'll be sure to thank each of you personally for your help.
Tom and I will put together another trip report in the form of a photo essay like we did for our ascent of Scorched Earth, and I'll write up a trip report for my solo of Lost in America.
In the meantime, get a life.
Shut up and climb.
[Oscar would be proud, wouldn't he?]
Cheers,
Dr. Piton
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coyoteblues
Jun 28, 2003, 2:24 AM
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:lol: Ha ha! You just kill me, man. You truly are a "doctor"; a spin doctor. Spinning another one, eh? Freakin' hilarious!
Hey, maybe you could PM flamer and get him to change the title to say something like "Yosemite...just back...here's the current gossip on one of the self-proclaimed world's greatest big wall climbers, our very own Dr. Piton." :lol: :lol: :lol:
Ladies and gentlemen, please remain calm. Yes, there was an attempted hijacking. But I believe we now have things under control. You may return to your altered state of conciousness watching the inflight movie.
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flamer
Jun 28, 2003, 3:00 AM
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Coyote- dude! you kill me! Seems as if i'm always laughing when you post something!
Pete, Well I have a couple of points to make.
#1 I apologise that this seems to have turned into a thread bashing you. It was not my original intent, I know My opinion of you(from the start of the thread) was not always the greatest. It truly was not my intent and you'll notice that on more than one occasion I tried to get it back on track.
#2 I wish I knew how to move quotes around, but since I suck with computers I'll just have to make do....
I find it funny that you tell us to get a life...are you not the #4 rated user on this site? And in a recent thread(the one about your "index" not being "sticky" anymore) Did you not tell people that it didn't matter because they could easily find your "index" by clicking on your name on the front page? It kind'a sounded like you were bragging a bit..but not you right? Obviously someone who climbs as much as you (and clearly isn't a Pu**y) wouldn't brag about being the #4 rated user on this site!
#3 As far as not saying anything to your face...Where I come from it would be impolite to be an ass to someone you just met. Now that I've met you, if we meet again, I might tell you what I think! Might being the key word...because i'd probably just pretend I don't know you...
#3 Are you sure you aren't just pissed that this is the #1 all time thread(in terms of number of hits) and not one of your's?? I myself am amazed that it Has been viewed this much! I'm curious to know if it is an error??
#4 Does anybody know what's going on in the Valley these days? :wink:
josh
President Pu**ies aniamous
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bigwalling
Jun 28, 2003, 7:06 PM
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This whole thing is just like high school. Only worst!
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tim
Jun 28, 2003, 7:23 PM
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That sentence no verb!
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gthornberg
Jun 28, 2003, 7:57 PM
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I'm just adding my comment to keep this thread as the all-time most responded to post.
I have absolutely nothing important to say.
Wierd, eh? :?
GT
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passthepitonspete
Jun 28, 2003, 9:26 PM
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Certainly not.
It is for that very reason I chose to respond as I did above. And it's not the most responded to post, it's the most READ post, and there is a difference, you know.
I am Dr. Piton,
and I am President of my Very Own Club!
[As for being #4 user on this website, this is clearly indicative of my need to Get A Life. But ask rrretard - he'll tell you - I'm not really the number four user - ask him!]
Hey, rrretard! I'm not really the #4 user, am I?
[We'll get this bloody post to 30,000 - you just watch and see. Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! rrretard will help. I have nothing better to do this weekend. It's Canada Day, eh? Besides, my fingers are still hurting me.......]
[Oh yeah, nice use of the word "eh" above, eh? Pretty good for a Merrican. Then again, if you're from Sarasota, you could be a snowbird.....]
So there. Nyah nyah nyah.
How's your finger, flamer?
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flamer
Jun 28, 2003, 9:41 PM
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Fingers great! I just used my new hook the other day!
josh
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passthepitonspete
Jun 28, 2003, 9:51 PM
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{Sigh}
That little guy was one of my favourite hooks! He an I have soloed six big walls together. [I missed him on my seventh solo]
OK, so what do I gotta do to get him back? I'm a salesman. I can negotiatate.
Tell me what it'll take.....
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rrrADAM
Jun 28, 2003, 11:23 PM
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Why'ya bringin me into this ???
In reply to: I am Dr. Piton, and I am President of my Very Own Club!
I think you are your #1 fan. :wink:
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coyoteblues
Jun 29, 2003, 1:44 AM
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In reply to: Why'ya bringin me into this ???
Don't knock it, rrradam. Now you too can lay claim to the most read post on rc.com being about you. Bask in all your glory. With ptpp as your detractor, you must be the most bitchin' trad climber ever!
Oh how this shIt kills me. :lol: :lol: :lol:
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rrrADAM
Jun 29, 2003, 3:17 AM
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Nope... I'm just your average climber. Not bitchin.
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epic_ed
Jun 29, 2003, 3:46 AM
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In reply to: I have nothing better to do this weekend. It's Canada Day, eh?
That's not until July 1st, dude. Don't tell me you're making a 3-day weekend out of it?
This really is a priceless exchange. Pete, I think it would be fair if Flamer gave it back to you from an equal height the next time you're both in the Valley. I know, I know...it wasn't intentional. But a little bit of humility would go a long way.
Epic Ed
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passthepitonspete
Jun 29, 2003, 4:21 PM
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Dude. DUDE. Doo-hude!
Canada Day is like, Tuesday, eh? So I'm making it like a four-day weekend, eh?
And considering I've been home since Tuesday, I think, and have yet to walk in the door of my office [don't want the office staff to pass out in surprise] I might make a week out of it.
It's sort of this carry-forward from being a Valley climbing bum for the last month and a half. It really is amazing how long I avoid doing anything productive.
Sometimes I amaze even myself.
I am Dr. Piton,
and I am very bitchin' indeed.
[Just ask me ... I'll tell you myself!]
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coyoteblues
Jul 1, 2003, 1:21 AM
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In reply to: [Oh yeah, nice use of the word "eh" above, eh? Pretty good for a Merrican. Then again, if you're from Sarasota, you could be a snowbird.....]
(I'm still laughing.)
Truth be told, I'm no more a Merrican than you. (Work on it for a while; you might just figure it out.) But enough about me.
In reply to: Someday - just once in my lifetime - I would love it if one of you detractors actually had the balls to come up to me and say something in person! Not ONE PERSON has ever done this! I think I'll faint if and when this ever comes to pass.
But to make it up to you, I'm making a commitment right here and now, a "grand announcement" if you will. If for some reason I ever run into you in real life, I'll tell ya what I'll do. I'll be the guy who walks up to you out of the blue, asks if you are ptpp, and then says, "You are full of shit right up to your eyeballs." And I'm gonna do that simply because you "would love it."
No need to thank me now. Please wait til I actually have the opportunity.
I guess I'm just a swell guy, eh?
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passthepitonspete
Jul 1, 2003, 5:07 AM
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In reply to: "Truth be told, I'm no more a Merrican than you."
Dude, I'm as red, white and blue as Uncle Frickin' Sam himself.
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coyoteblues
Jul 1, 2003, 1:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: "Truth be told, I'm no more a Merrican than you." Dude, I'm as red, white and blue as Uncle Frickin' Sam himself.
Ok, yeah... you're getting there... it's not much of a stretch now... just a little further...one more step....
Ok, a little hint. From what you know to be true about yourself, and from what I said, you can logically conclude what? C'mon, it's not that hard. Just read carefully. I'm sure it'll all come together for you shortly. :idea: :!:
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billcoe_
Jul 1, 2003, 2:58 PM
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If anybody has read this far, my prediction is that it will soon become a shoe thread, followed by a flame war about shoe threads.
BTW: Canada has "day"? What the hell, eh? Aren't they one of hte states?
Bill 8)
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socalclimber
Jul 1, 2003, 4:00 PM
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"Their not even a real county anyway... Blame Canada, Blame Canada..."
South Park
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 4:06 PM
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In reply to: If anybody has read this far, my prediction is that it will soon become a shoe thread, followed by a flame war about shoe threads. BTW: Canada has "day"? What the hell, eh? Aren't they one of hte states? Bill 8)
So what kind of climbing shoes do hosers wear, anyway? And what type of shoes are most frequently dropped? Which are most likely to hold up after a 1000 ft fall? I'm planning on dropping a few pair next time I'm in the Valley for testing purposes, but was wondering what types of shoes you guys would recommend.
Thanks -- Epic Ed
(Just doing my part to turn this into a shoe thread...)
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 4:09 PM
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OOOoooooo! AND notice that this thread which has long lived in the aid forum has now (after over a month since it's original post) been moved to the "Feedback & Trip Report" forum. Niiiicce...and a brilliant move. Choss pile next?
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ricardol
Jul 1, 2003, 4:15 PM
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... this thread was a bit more interesting before i killfied a bunch of people -- now it seems a bit one-sided .. haha ..
.. umm -- i hate to point this out pete .. but i think one of your detractors did tell you what they thought to your face .. remember that guy that you ran into the day i met you that went off on you? -- i guess we can call him a detractor ..
.. anywyas ... just want to keep this thread going ..
.. about dropping shoes .. would it be better if you drop one at a time, or both of them .. and if so .. should you tie them together with 1/2" webbing or 1" webbing? -- what do you guys think?
- ricardo
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flamer
Jul 1, 2003, 4:54 PM
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DUDE!!! What's up with the move to feedback and trip reports??? Why wasn't it moved a month ago???
Killfile, haha! Am I on anyones killfile??? I guess I think Killfile is the easy way out...that way you can live in your own little world...and not have to know that there is a "better way"....either that or you're a sexually harrassed chick.... :lol:
josh
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 5:14 PM
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So no mod sent you a notice about moving the thread? Excellent. I don't want to jump on anybody and start slamming mods (Andrew usually does a fine job for the aid forum), but haven't we had a number of threads discussing this exact issue? Hasn't there been universal agreement that mods should a). Notify the original poster (via PM) of the thread and indicate (briefly) why it was moved, and b). Indicate who move it and when with a brief message in the thread when it was moved.
I mean, why not give us an avenue to communicate directly with the person who moved the thread, rather than have us bitch and gripe publically in the forum? I'd rather have a PM discussion with a mod and eventually agree to disagree than post this crap for everyone to see. That being said, it's not my thread but one of mine was moved recently -- likely for similar reasons.
I'm just suggesting a little communication, mods.
Ed
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flamer
Jul 1, 2003, 6:07 PM
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The mod who moved it did PM me(after the fact) which I greatly appreciate. I do agree with the move...this probably didn't belong in the aid forum.
josh
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 6:19 PM
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Cool. I don't agree with the move, but the communication issue is much more important to me than the actual location of the thread. Glad to hear about the notice, and nice job to the mod.
Now can we get back to this shoe thread?
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rrrADAM
Jul 1, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Arghhhh !!! Don't make it a shoe thread, then I'll have to move it to Gear Heads, or worse split it into TR (FB&TR), flame (Comm.), and shoe thread (GH), then send PMs to too many users.
I only have but one life on this planet, and the time it would take to do that would require reincarnation. :wink:
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billcoe_
Jul 1, 2003, 7:04 PM
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RRRadam: you do a great job, but perhaps this whole discussion could be ended by giving Pete his own forum. You know, like the "ladies area" kind of thing. That way, an area thread which becomes an aid post that turns into a nasty flame war, then shoe thread and then finally a PTPP flame war would start out right at home. Those who want to "exclusively bash" Pete would finally have their own forum.
Now, I should not say too much about anything since I just re-read my previous post and realize I can't even spell "hte" correctly. Sh*t, there it is again.
I'll shut up. I like hearing about the valley BTW, in case anybody is interested. I have a wife, kids, house, business, you know: the "whole disaster" and have to pass on the annual pilgramage to Mecca and live vicariously through those who can go.
Sometimes I feel like the Banger sister who when straight. Sucks.
Now don't go and move this to the "whiner's and complainers" forum now I'll stop. I don't have anything bad to say about anybody, even Pete, so talk about boring, eh? Maybe I should make something up about Pete and the Donkeys over at the stables so I can fit in here? Hmmm. I'll have to think about it.
Regards to all:
Bill
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flamer
Jul 1, 2003, 8:27 PM
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In reply to: Maybe I should make something up about Pete and the Donkeys over at the stables so I can fit in here?
:lol: Every climber(I'm talking about men here) that's been to the valley knows that you only have a couple of chances to get some in the valley.
#1- Bring the meat(ie- a girlfriend)
#2- Meet the climbing girlfriend of your dreams(highly unlikely!)
#3-Tourist chicks at the mountain room(goodluck dirtbag!)
#4-The donkey's over at the stables(this is your best bet!) :shock:
So does anybody know the best climbing area to meet chicks??
josh
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kalcario
Jul 1, 2003, 8:51 PM
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*Every climber(I'm talking about men here) that's been to the valley knows that you only have a couple of chances to get some in the valley.
#1- Bring the meat(ie- a girlfriend)
#2- Meet the climbing girlfriend of your dreams(highly unlikely!)
#3-Tourist chicks at the mountain room(goodluck dirtbag!)
#4-The donkey's over at the stables(this is your best bet!) *
ahem.
Are you blind? The females that work there (800 in summer, 400 in winter) are DYING to hook up with he-man studly climbers! Problem is, most of the climbers are wall rats; fat smelly drunks with the social skills and breath of coyotes who could'nt get laid with a $1000 bill. Look at those old pictures of Huber freeing the Salathe back in 95. That's Melinda the barmaid down there at the belays. THAT'S how a player does it.
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valygrl
Jul 1, 2003, 8:56 PM
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I'm sick of you sexist a-holes. Move this crap to community. In what way is this a trip report?
Anna
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flamer
Jul 1, 2003, 9:00 PM
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Oh yeah! I forgot all about the curry girls!! Good point!!
Valygrl- I think you are kidding! And I hope you realise this is all in fun- even if it's true!!
josh
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valygrl
Jul 1, 2003, 9:20 PM
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Sigh. I wasn't kidding. I realize that I am not supposed to say this, as you guys will now all say I'm a b*tch and that I don't have a sense of humor, but it really is sexist and unpleasant to be referred to as "meat."
Anyway, flamer, flame on.
Anna
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kalcario
Jul 1, 2003, 9:30 PM
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why, are you a vegetarian?
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bandycoot
Jul 1, 2003, 9:42 PM
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Flamer may be sexist, but who cares! He's FUNNY! :lol:
In reply to: Bring the meat(ie- a girlfriend)
This had me laughing... it just slides off the tongue, "Bring the meat." What a great way to put it.
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grigriese
Jul 1, 2003, 9:56 PM
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In reply to: Sigh. I wasn't kidding. I realize that I am not supposed to say this, as you guys will now all say I'm a b*tch and that I don't have a sense of humor, but it really is sexist and unpleasant to be referred to as "meat." Anyway, flamer, flame on. Anna
Don't get offended by this sorta stuff - there is so much out there that is much worse to get offended by. Anyway, "meat" couldn't possibly refer to a climbing girlfriend, it's just a girl filling the need. A climbing girlfriend that does walls - why, you are are like the unattainable golden ring!
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coyoteblues
Jul 1, 2003, 10:40 PM
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In reply to: ...breath of coyotes....
Ya know, I really hate that little "lol" emoticon. He looks like a real dork to me.
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iamthewallress
Jul 1, 2003, 10:48 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Maybe I should make something up about Pete and the Donkeys over at the stables so I can fit in here? :lol: Every climber(I'm talking about men here) that's been to the valley knows that you only have a couple of chances to get some in the valley. #1- Bring the meat(ie- a girlfriend) #2- Meet the climbing girlfriend of your dreams(highly unlikely!) #3-Tourist chicks at the mountain room(goodluck dirtbag!) #4-The donkey's over at the stables(this is your best bet!) :shock: So does anybody know the best climbing area to meet chicks?? josh
I'm with Valygrl. Not many of you would think of using the 'N' word in the company of African American people and then suggesting that they keep their sense of humor b/c you were talking about some subgroup? :roll: And if someone did suggest such tripe, it would be in the archives within minutes.
Here's my tip for getting dates in the Valley...
1. Don't refer to women as "meat".
2. Be nice.
3. Climb hard.
If you can handle 1, 2, &3, I for one wouldn't care about BO or coyote breath. Chances are, you'd have to deal with mine.
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alpinestylist
Jul 1, 2003, 10:50 PM
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josh :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
the girls of the YCS rule!!!!
Everyone needs a warm bed sometime!
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flamer
Jul 1, 2003, 11:08 PM
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God damn! I'm a retard!!! I didn't even realise that valygrl was talking about the "meat" comment! I thought she was talking about the whole statement!!!
I guess I figured the meat comment was so out there it couldn't be thought of as sexist!! Funny funny!
Sometimes I stir the pot when I don't even mean to!!
josh
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 11:18 PM
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In reply to: Here's my tip for getting dates in the Valley... 1. Don't refer to women as "meat". 2. Be nice. 3. Climb hard. If you can handle 1, 2, &3, I for one wouldn't care about BO or coyote breath. Chances are, you'd have to deal with mine.
Damn it! How about if we try hard to climb hard? Does that count for something? Aren't there any women out there who are impressed by a guy who on-sites 5.6 any crag, anywhere? How about gear? Lots of gear has to count for something, doesn't it? It certainly helps compensate for a small Johnson.
Oh well, back to the drawing board...
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iamthewallress
Jul 1, 2003, 11:24 PM
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Actually, Ed, I think the only one that ultimately matters is 2.
Since you're definatley a #2, I've you haven't met her yet, I'm sure you will. :wink:
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 11:29 PM
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:oops: Awww, shucks.
Yeah, she's out there somewhere. Probably on a multi-pitch climb right now.
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coyoteblues
Jul 1, 2003, 11:37 PM
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In reply to: Here's my tip for getting dates in the Valley... 1. Don't refer to women as "meat". 2. Be nice. 3. Climb hard. If you can handle 1, 2, &3, I for one wouldn't care about BO or coyote breath. Chances are, you'd have to deal with mine.
On the other hand, if you are a woman and you are looking for a particularly immature male for a one-night stand with absolutely no strings attached, referring that male as your "meat" might actually get you somewhere. Unfortunately you will likely regret having gone there in the morning, so Dr. Coyote does not recommend this practice. And besides, getting a guy is about the easiest thing in the world to do. But finding one worth being with is a whole 'nother topic.
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valygrl
Jul 2, 2003, 12:26 AM
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Yeah, there's lots of worse stuff on this site and out in the real world to get offended by. I get p-o'd about it all the time, I guess I just clicked the submit button on my reply this time, instead of cancelling it like I usually do. I wasn't really directing this at flamer in particular - I'm surprised that Lynn defends it, though. Melissa, thanks for the support.
My sense of humor may in fact be impaired after spending the last 3 days straight in the cardiac ICU at my dad's bedside. Yuck.
Cheers, beers, and... what was that other thing?
Anna
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flamer
Jul 2, 2003, 12:29 AM
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[quote="coyoteblues :D Well put. When I'm in the valley I'm not lookin' for a date.
DATE??? When I'm in the valley I'm not looking for a date!!! More like a FLING Between climbs!!!
josh
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flamer
Jul 2, 2003, 12:31 AM
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Damn it! I posted that before I saw Valygrls post!!
FOOT-MOUTH_GOOD!!!
So sorry to hear about your dad...
josh
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iamthewallress
Jul 2, 2003, 12:32 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: :D Well put. When I'm in the valley I'm not lookin' for a date. DATE??? When I'm in the valley I'm not looking for a date!!! More like a FLING Between climbs!!! josh
Wash your hands then retire to your tent. Wash hands again when done. Voila. Hope this helps.
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welshcorgi
Jul 2, 2003, 12:35 AM
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Maybe Flamer would understand if we referred to him as "Vegetable" (he did call us meat). Maybe string bean, baby carrot, or limp pasta would be appropriate?
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flamer
Jul 2, 2003, 12:51 AM
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In reply to: Maybe Flamer would understand if we referred to him as "Vegetable" (he did call us meat). Maybe string bean, baby carrot, or limp pasta would be appropriate?
Ok that's frick'n funny!!!
And it is true that my"stuff" does tend to shrivel in the valley...those walls are big!!
Melissa!! Thanks for the advice- but every guy already knows that!! EXCEPT!! What's with this washing yours hands crap?? The added friction is good!!
josh
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iamthewallress
Jul 2, 2003, 1:10 AM
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In reply to: Melissa!! Thanks for the advice- but every guy already knows that!! EXCEPT!! What's with this washing yours hands crap?? The added friction is good!! josh
I guess you really aren't too picky about your fling. I know what my hands look like when I get off a wall. :shock:
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valygrl
Jul 2, 2003, 1:16 AM
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Josh, thanks for the condolences, no worries.
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billcoe_
Jul 3, 2003, 5:30 AM
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Well written Pete: Little preachy, but well done. How did that get into a Yosemite trip report?
I'm done even thinking about the Donkeys now, even the good looking ones. :cry: :oops:
Bill
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passthepitonspete
Jul 3, 2003, 6:01 AM
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Thanks, mate.
They don't call me PTL and PTPP for nothin'.
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flamer
Jul 7, 2003, 11:47 PM
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Well looks like this marathon has run it's course!! Thanks for the replies and for keeping me entertained!!
Take care all!
josh
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karlbaba
Jul 12, 2003, 1:17 AM
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About the "meat" thing
Wouldn't you get suspicious about some girl who posted about "finding some guys to pay for drinks and dinner" as a strategy to extend roadtrips? What would the slang for that be? "sugar daddy?"
Nobody wants to be exploited (unless its clearly communicated and mutual)
Peace
Karl
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