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iamthewallress
Jun 10, 2003, 1:29 AM
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If you profess to be a gumby and then climb like one, it's part of what is to be expected. If you unintentionally cause a CF, but are as nice and accomodating as you can be to those inconvenienced by you, more character points for you IMO. If you are the "Wall Doctor" and profess the "Better Way" and then refuse to let people sleep on the same ledge as you although you have portaledges, then you deserve ridicule.
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passthepitonspete
Jun 10, 2003, 3:53 AM
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Hi Y'all,
Ha-ha! That's funny! What Ammon fails to mention is that when I dropped my pin rack above Laura Scudders on Sea of Dreams, it was he who tied my dropped pin rack onto the end of our three tied-together ropes so that I could pull it up, thus saving myself the bother of jugging five or six hundred feet!
So anyway, I'm just sitting here nursing my sore legs from the East Ledges, and my sore hands and elbows from two weeks of drilling on the wall. Holy frig, we drilled the hell out of Bermuda Dunes, and deservedly so. I placed more bolts in the last two weeks than I think the rest of my life! Sheesh. But I think I'm beginning to "get" how to do it, so that bodes well for future bolting.
The existing bolted belays on Bermuda Dunes were total mank, so as Tom mentions above we were sure to re-equip the bolted belays [at least those that did not offer viable alternate natural protection] with at least a pair of shiny new 3/8-inchers. Big fatties, instead of those crappy quarter-inchers that fall out practically just by looking at them. We took a few pictures, which we'll publish later.
In keeping with Sartre ["on a toujours la choix...."] on many of these belays you now have a choice - you can clip the eighteen-year-old manks, you can clip our shiny new bolts, you can clip some of each, or you can clip none [not recommended by Dr. Piton.] On some you can can even use natural gear.
At any rate, the route is certainly much much safer than it used to be, before we put the new bolts in.
Bermuda Dunes took us a little longer than expected for three reasons - we were reduced from a three-man team to a two-man team, the aid climbing was much harder and more serious than I expected it to be, and most substantially, it took so frickin' long to stick in all the new bolts! [I've been eating the Breakfast of Champions - ibuprofen and coffee].
No doubt we could have climbed faster had we begun climbing before noon more often, however the final day on the wall was the single day we could motivate ourselves to begin so early, since we were usually busy drinking coffee or sleeping in.
It is amusing to note that only Karl appears to get it. You might be interested to note that my Net Worth has substantially improved since arriving in the Valley, as per usual - I have more bootied wired stoppers and pins than I can use, so come find me if you need some - I'll sell 'em cheaply.
As for dropped gear, I did pretty well [for] on this climb. I dropped a pin the first or second day when I [got] and tried to bash it in a head seam - sheesh. I'm delighted to report that no pigs were dropped, and we arrived on the summit with our load intact, though heavier by a thirty-pound Wall Flower.
Hey, I was wondering what happened to that missing hook - it's one of my favourites. Sorry about your finger, Josh. I tend to fumble a bit when I get up off the couch and climb on hooks for the first time, and I do apologize for hitting your finger! Would you be so kind as to leave me my dropped hook at "Camp 5" - the bear boxes in the centre of the Curry Village "apple orchard" parking lot - the next time you're around? Leave me a note with my name on it, and I should get it OK. Thanks, mate.
As for wandering round the base of the big wall, one really ought to wear a helmet. It's a dangerous place, if not for falling rock, but for getting hit by falling gear. [Why buy gear when it falls from the sky?] Yesterday we retrieved a beautiful waterproof REI bag, Tom found a nice HB offset and a sewn sling, and I found enough water left by bailing climbers to fully supply my upcoming solo so I don't have to carry any water up to the base [thus sparing me the effort].
And if that weren't enough, outside the grocery store this dude Scott comes up and offers me a Coffee Sponsorship with the Mariposa Coffee Company, America's Purest Coffees. [Not bad, eh? Stand by for the details and photos and stuff]
Anyway, Bermuda Dunes was STOUT aid climbing! Holy frig, the A4+ crux pitch was the REAL deal. Certainly as hard as the A5 corner on Jolly Roger on a piece-by-piece measurement, except that there were more consecutive hard placements on JR, and that on JR you would hit a ledge whereas on BD it's a clean fall. I guess that's the difference between A4+ and A5 [like, as if there needs to be one, eh?]
Anyway, that pitch scared the livin' bejeepers out of me - definitely PDH/DFU with 80-foot-plus fall potential if you do happen to FU. It took about a dozen RURP/beak/pecker placements along with two or three heads and a couple stacked blades. [Dang, my fingers get sweaty just thinking about it. What is wrong with me, anyway?! I actually ENJOY that stuff, at least afterwards..... I'm too scared at the time to like it..... At least I think I enjoy it. Either way, climbing big valls is just a different kind of suffering.]
Oh yeah, I took a couple falls. The second one deposited me practically in Tom's lap and narrowly missed my Crab-O-Ledge - a twenty-foot-plus Factor One off the Fish Head Pitch that kinda woke us up. But the first fall was even more scary - a head popped and I fell on a rivet hanger which broke! Man, I ought to make a post about that one.
Anyway, I think I used up my Fear Quota on the Dunes, and I certainly depleted my wall patience, so I'm afraid I'm going to bail on my announcement to solo Gulf Stream, and instead I wanna solo something easier. So you can look for me soloing up on Lost In America next week. I hope to solo Gulf Stream this fall. [Consider this my Amended Big Announement, in case anyone actually cares......]
Thanks to everyone who bought me beers, pizza, coffees, schlepped my loads, fed me burritos, gave us bolts, and took the time to drop by and say hello. I'll try to name everyone in person, but I'll save it for after I get home. Assuming I ever actually get home - I'm afraid I'm having too much fun at the moment. Fortunately, my employer feels precisely the same way, so maybe I'll just have to stay longer.
Cheers,
DTSHP ["Drop The Sky Hook" Pete]
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2003, 4:24 AM
Post #78 of 209
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Flamer said...
In reply to: The yosemite locals seem to think all (PTTP) ever does is drop stuff....haulbags, hooks, names.
right after he said...
In reply to: The Hubers(alex and Thomas) are Freeing ZODIAC!!! I shared a site with them in C4 (and a few beers, those Germans can drink!) and here is what they told me..They said they had freed all the moves and were working on linking them and dialing in the crux pitchs...then in a couple of weeks they will be going for a red point attempt- from the ground...they seemed pretty confident. They also told me that Leo Houlding and crew were trying to free New Jersey Turnpike...and I saw them up there ALOT. I met Yuji Hirayuma who was working on freeing Lurking Fear...he showed my partner how he'd glued his finger nails to his fingers so he wouldn't rip them off on the incredibily small edges!
(Emphasis mine)
Hahaha. I love it.
Anyway, whilst in the Valley I met Wally Barker, Evo (??)- a member of Leo Houlding's crew, Sue McDevitt, Cedar Wright, a few rc.com'ers, and I even saw a girl toprope a 5.3 on Swan Slab. Like, total wow!! Did I drop any names on any fingers?
Carry on, kiddies!
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passthepitonspete
Jun 10, 2003, 4:40 AM
Post #79 of 209
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I met me.
[Damn, I'm bitchin'....]
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bigwalling
Jun 10, 2003, 4:54 AM
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In reply to: Anyway, I think I used up my Fear Quota on the Dunes, and I certainly depleted my wall patience, so I'm afraid I'm going to bail on my announcement to solo Gulf Stream, and instead I wanna solo something easier. So you can look for me soloing up on Lost In America next week.
I think you are less bitchen than you seem to think you are! HAHAHAHAHA. Just kiding dude.
Pete, why didn't you pull the existing bolts and just enlarge the hole? And put in a 3/8"er? That pitch sounds sweet! Beaks are way awesome. Damn I can't wait for the valley!
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timpanogos
Jun 10, 2003, 5:04 AM
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Pete,
Don't forget, 4 of those peckers and 5 rups are mine - you also got off with several other of my heads/pins
Chad
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elcapbuzz
Jun 10, 2003, 5:25 AM
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Pete!!
You must have bumped your head and did some serious damage to your brain cells.
That was not ME at the base clipping your dropped pitons in. That was Fernando... a good friend of mine. My brother and I were straight across from you on the PO.
We yelled over to you, asked you what you dropped and then summoned Fernando to HELP you.
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apollodorus
Jun 10, 2003, 8:44 AM
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This topic, and many similar, crack me up because all these twenty-younguns rant and rave about PTPP (and my) ineptitude on the wall. Only will time will tell, but the smart money is that most of them will be permanently on the couch by the time they're 30+ years old. PTPP and I are both over 40 and still going up.
"You are either on the wall, or you are off the wall."
Any detractors out there willing to admit they've bailed from a wall? PTPP and I haven't yet.
"He has a funny swing, but at the end of the round his card demoralizes and convinces the others of his ability." - Dr. Johnson
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apollodorus
Jun 10, 2003, 10:31 AM
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In reply to: If you guys would keep up on local ethics and talk to locals, you’d know that the first ascentionist doesn’t have the final say in what happens to a route, especially with regard to adding bolts. Bolts should never be added to a route unless the ENTIRE (local) climbing community reaches the consensus that it is OK. How many other locals did you guys talk to?
JFTR, it was one of the "locals" who gave us the bolts because some dickhead's paranoid delusions caused the ASCA to decide that the impending e-mail clutter wasn't worth the hassle.
And the magnanimous local provider of bolts is more "local" than me, PTPP, you and your closest six friends put together.
Get a life, do a route, or just get out of the way.
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elcapbuzz
Jun 10, 2003, 6:18 PM
Post #85 of 209
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Tom,
Pete loves controversy. He has told this to me personally. He's good at creating waves.
I can't believe you are getting sucked in to it.
I can't believe I am either.
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drkodos
Jun 10, 2003, 6:28 PM
Post #86 of 209
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In reply to: Any detractors out there willing to admit they've bailed from a wall? PTPP and I haven't yet.
I am a distractor and I've had to bail a couple of times....
weather.
bad punters.
too freaked.
If you haven't bailed from a wall, it means you haven't done very many, nor have you been pushing your limits.
Just because you aren't smart enough to know when to come down.....hope I don't have to come rescue you when dogma keeps you up there when you shouldn't be.
The Better Way?.....to be a rectal pore.
I don't even own a couch, and I'm in my 40's.
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iamthewallress
Jun 10, 2003, 6:45 PM
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In reply to: hope I don't have to come rescue you when dogma keeps you up there when you shouldn't be.
If the schitt ever really hits the fan for these guys, Tom will be in Pete's haulbag, and Pete will be drilling his way out of trouble.
Tom, I've been someone's belay be-otch and summited, and I've bailed when I was responsible for taking care of everything myself. I felt like the latter was better style and took much more know-how on my part. I've summited under my own power too, but I think bailing actually took more good judgement. Go climb a few walls without Pete with time constraints and don't haul 450 lbs of 'just in case' supplies, and then come back and try insulting the rest of us with your impressive climbing resume.
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kevlar
Jun 10, 2003, 6:49 PM
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oops...did I enter the wrong room....sure smells like " pooopy diapers" abounds in here...
:cry: :cry: hopefully it will soon be nap time...cause there sure seems to be allot of crying in here :cry: :cry:
"don't hate...congratulate"
1 wall or 100...I agree...bailing is not the issue...i think it appears to be size
Tom...relax an go easy on the gas...rock on an enjoy the walls...good luck with all till you make it back to the valley...
I have come to realize some must lower others cause they are unable to reach the upper areas anyway else...maybe when the smoke clears we can realize it is all about the fun an yes the challenge...much can be accomplished with an open mind...not an empty one.
May all be safe....cheers
john
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billcoe_
Jun 10, 2003, 7:29 PM
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Yup. I'm staying out of this. I can see it's going to shortly degenerate into a slamfest of who has the longest penis. Since I already know thats not me by a long shot - I'm outta here.
Like reading the "positive" things though.
:oops:
Bill
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flamer
Jun 10, 2003, 8:20 PM
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Climbsomething,
Where have you been? Did you not notice that this was brought up on like the second or third post?? Thought I answered it? And it was, kind'a supposed to be a poke at myself as well....but you are the one in the valley now(or maybe back?) so please tell us all what we're missing!!
Pete, sorry not in the valley anymore, you can't have it back.
Certain valley locals thought it would be more fitting for me to hit you with it, or hike to the top of El cap and piss off...I figured I'd just keep the hook.
Hope you enjoy lost in america...maybe you should ask for beta...I know at least one RC.comer that has done it....notice I'm not dropping any names this time :wink:
josh
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2003, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: Climbsomething, Where have you been? Did you not notice that this was brought up on like the second or third post?? Thought I answered it? And it was, kind'a supposed to be a poke at myself as well....but you are the one in the valley now(or maybe back?) so please tell us all what we're missing!!
Um, I've been in Yosemite, not piddling with my pee-pee with my hook-bruised fingers. Yeah, I see you've already been called to task, but why can't I join in too? As you have shown yourself, "once" is not the limit to rail on somebody.
What can I tell you about Yos-might? Not a damn thing. I went and I climbed and made new friends and had a good time. That's what garden-variety nobodies like me do. I didn't get any inside tips from Hot Flashers, or get out the ruler, and I didn't wrap my lips around the throbbing shaft of petty wall-rat snivveling. I highly recommend you people just enjoy your own experiences and not get your granny panties in a bunch over other (old-hat at that) mythical figures of internet lore and hate. Seriously, y'all.
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euroford
Jun 10, 2003, 9:37 PM
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this whole 'yos culture' thing just kills the whole vibe for me. its worse than freakin high school man!
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2003, 9:42 PM
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No shizz, euro! High Skool... some people are hung up on sitting at the Cool Kids Table in the cafeteria. But some of us just want to eat our lunch! :P :x
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euroford
Jun 10, 2003, 9:46 PM
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i have to say, i've not been out to yos, and the climbing sounds stellar.... but i really don't feel the need to even go! threads like this have just made the whole experience sound like "yosemite the big wall climbing gym".
i'm planning a trip for alaska this year...
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sspssp
Jun 10, 2003, 9:52 PM
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In reply to: "yosemite the big wall climbing gym".
Yep, its just one lousy gym that I highly recommend everyone stay away from.
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timpanogos
Jun 10, 2003, 10:09 PM
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I did the Prow with Pete a few weeks back. I learned Pete’s systems from the start and had practiced them on my own – they make sense to me – they work – they are safe. Pete and I made great partners – we worked well together – and I had a great time with him. Pete thanks for partnering with me for the fantastic ascent of Washington column (were the avalanches cool or what!). As an individual – I meet Pete personally; I climbed with him for 3 days, and another nasty days decent. Pete is good people. Based on my own personal experience, I would climb with Pete anytime, and recommend him to anyone as a partner and teacher.
It has been said – “what happens on the wall, stays on the wall” when it comes to the discovery of personal quarks that may come out under pressure on the wall.
I would also like to suggest that like the old saying goes – “until you have walked a mile in their shoes” , or in this case, until we have toiled up close with another individual on the wall, maybe we should not be making judgments about the character of those individuals.
I hope to have the opportunity to partner with others on this site – and I can only hope that the personal experience as well as the task accomplished will match that which I had with Pete.
Once again, web persona, distractor band wagon aside – Pete is good people.
Chad
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gawd
Jun 11, 2003, 1:52 AM
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You know I want to post something here, but I think that I will keep to myself.
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alpinelynx
Jun 11, 2003, 4:13 AM
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In reply to: I met me. [Damn, I'm bitchin'....]
dude, c'mon, you tuck your green t-shirt into your not-so-matching-as-to-annoy green sweat pants and hang a faded stuft animal off the collar of your shirt. You strut about like a rooster and hold court on the Deck with your horde of adulators. It reminds me of a really bad Neil Diamond song or something. You clog routes like the pores on a 17 year old and then brag about your 30 pound bag of shit.
"I tend to fumble a bit when I get up off the couch and climb on hooks for the first time"
bwah-ha ha that's a freaking classic, considering you are now asking for the piece back. This MAY be one example of why some people see you coming and turn to walk the other way. I'm also really glad to hear that you pounded bolts into a route I won't ever be getting on because I am a Gumby. But then, I've never really dropped anything on my 5.7 projects but have occasionally gotten tangled up at belays and done stupid things because I am just another joe climber learning. However, you claim to be the Wall Doctor, proclaiming the opulence of your ghetto rigs; shouldn't you be beyond that?
but I digress.
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climbsomething
Jun 11, 2003, 4:30 AM
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Alpinelynx- why don't you have a look at that signature of yours? The one that says:
In reply to: Can we please just talk about climbing?
And, like, get a sense of ha-ha. If Pete's quote isn't tongue-in-cheek, then I don't know what is. He knows better than anybody what a frickin' tool he is.
*spurt* Jesus H. Christ on a stick! WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE? is there nothing better to do then put orgasmic force behind flaming Pete all day, every day?
I feel a rant coming on... :shock: :roll:
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alpinelynx
Jun 11, 2003, 4:51 AM
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In reply to: is there nothing better to do then put orgasmic force behind flaming Pete all day, every day?
its fun and I am a bitch. so what.
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