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marks
Jun 11, 2003, 7:43 PM
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i would like to go to yosemite from the u.k for a climbing trip.
is there much in the way of single pitch trad routes.
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kevlar
Jun 11, 2003, 7:49 PM
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Yes....
Just a few can be found at " swan slab an manure " pile area...
In the climbing store you will locate some good books...
the best being by Chris McNamara...his series of SuperTopos...
you can do a search here for them
cheers
John
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apollodorus
Jun 11, 2003, 8:19 PM
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Yosemite Valley probably has the highest concentration of short climbs in the world. Many of them end at rap stations (because the walls are so huge), so you can do one pitch and then rap off.
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punk
Jun 11, 2003, 8:22 PM
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Is AFO Schwartz have a lot of toys…not for nothing they call it the Toy store same thing here not for nothing they call it Climbing Mecca :lol: :lol:
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stuck
Jun 11, 2003, 8:33 PM
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Nope, all sport.
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scottcody
Jun 11, 2003, 9:01 PM
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In reply to: Nope, all sport.
total choss pile. Don't go there.
I hear there is killer trad in Southern illinois
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sspssp
Jun 11, 2003, 9:06 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Nope, all sport. He is right... Bolted to hell, all kinds of fixed gear, and chipped holds total choss pile. Don't go there. I hear there is killer trad in Southern illinois
All the horror stories you have ever heard about Yosemite, sadly, they are all true.
The Trad in Central Kansas is much more killer than Illinois.
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piton
Jun 12, 2003, 12:44 PM
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hey marks,
you will have a great time doing single pitch climbs.
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fishypete
Jun 12, 2003, 1:05 PM
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My God! That has got to be the funniest damn thread title I have ever seen!
Pissing myself laughing right now!
Thanks Marks - you have made my day! Brilliant!
Cheers
Fishy.
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duskerhu
Jun 12, 2003, 1:10 PM
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Bloody limey TROLL! :lol: :lol: :lol:
duskerhu
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marks
Jun 12, 2003, 7:39 PM
Post #12 of 29
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how am i supposed to know if there is much trad there?
in the uk we allways think of the americans getting 2 foot above there gear then crapping themselfs.
instead just stick bolts in everything.
the uk is the home of trad ,i just fancied somewhere differant
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moeman
Jun 12, 2003, 7:45 PM
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You must be f***ing joking. Yosemite is where modern trad climbing wa developed. Hexes, Cams, and many types of pitons all were invented in or for yosemite.
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dsafanda
Jun 12, 2003, 7:47 PM
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In reply to: how am i supposed to know if there is much trad there? in the uk we allways think of the americans getting 2 foot above there gear then crapping themselfs.
No worries. We don't expect brits to know much about the history of trad climbing. I thought you mainly just goofed around on those silly little boulders that you guys make such a big deal about. What's it called? Gripstone? Fritstone? I heard it sucks.
In all seriousness though...do yourself a favor and brush up on your climbing history before heading to Yosemite. You'll enjoy you're visist that much more. Start by reading Camp4 by Steve Roper.
btw. Careful moeman. I'm pretty sure passive pro such as hexes were indeed all developed in Britain. People such as Royal Robbins who visited the UK were responsible for bringing this clean climbing ethic back to Yosemite where it was put to the real test on the big walls of the Valley. You're right about cams though. They're true Red, White and Blue.
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dingus
Jun 12, 2003, 8:00 PM
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In reply to: how am i supposed to know if there is much trad there? in the uk we allways think of the americans getting 2 foot above there gear then crapping themselfs. instead just stick bolts in everything. the uk is the home of trad ,i just fancied somewhere differant
Dam marks, you're pretty good at this.
And we merkins appreciate the Brit gift of trad by the way. The world is a better place because of it. Brown and Whillans are my heros!
Do carry on old chap.
DMT
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salathiel
Jun 13, 2003, 7:31 PM
Post #16 of 29
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Moeman, you had best get yourself a book on the history of climbing, watch the video Hard grit and when Marks comes to the states I would send him a written apology, some hookers and blow for good measure. Clean trad was born in the UK using crappy hardware store nuts for pro. Stop by the Seneca Rocks climbing shop and Tom will fill you in if you can't read.
Blur
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chingas
Jun 13, 2003, 7:40 PM
Post #17 of 29
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Hey, is there any bouldering in Bishop, CA?
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grandwall
Jun 13, 2003, 7:45 PM
Post #18 of 29
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no, there is no bouldering in bishop. it's just a cheap place to stay while visiting Mammoth Mountain.
also, if anyone tells you there's boulders in hueco tanks, they're lying to you.
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keinangst
Jun 13, 2003, 7:51 PM
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Yeah, Hueco is a great big joke to get people to go to central Texas. Even the name is a joke--in Central America, "Hueco" is derogatory slang for a homosexual :shock: :D (no, seriously!)
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indigo_nite
Jun 30, 2003, 11:24 PM
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just got back from first climbing at yosemite. consider myself a beg. trad leader (since winter '01). selection on 5.7 and lower climbs is pretty small. from 5.9 and up you get alot more options on climbs (and avoiding lines I'm thinking). can expect to hone your crack technique on valley rock (though humbling it may be). myself whimpered up some chimney and offwidths (not even leading).
on classic moderates w/ stars, you can expect lines. I don't know about off-season. check out www.supertopo.com for a quick preview on popular routes. check out the valley and tuolomne meadows (depending on the time of year you'll travel).
yosemite seems to attract big wallers and multi-pitch climbers more than not (a number of climbers at camp were hard-core/intense but also weekend/weekday warriors could be found for moderate partners). if you want a larger selection of short trad, I think Joshua Tree (southern California) would offer more in a freakishly gorgeous setting.
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badphish
Jul 1, 2003, 1:39 AM
Post #21 of 29
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thats strange, i've never met a trad climber that
doesn't like multi-pitch routes. thats generally where
a lot of the classics are.
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epic_ed
Jul 1, 2003, 3:06 AM
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In reply to: My God! That has got to be the funniest damn thread title I have ever seen! Pissing myself laughing right now! Fishy.
I'm with ya. I clicked on this thinking "surely, this is a funny troll..." Heck, maybe Dingus is onto him, but he sounds serious. I guess all truely good trolls do.
But if not, and it's a serious question: Dude, just show up. And try not to sh!t yourself when you see all the options. Single pitch, multi-pitch, bouldering, and of course, the big stuff. Sounds like you may not be ready for that yet. Yeah, well, neither was I.
Epic Ed
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coldclimb
Jul 1, 2003, 4:20 AM
Post #23 of 29
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Registered: Jan 14, 2002
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hehe, I've been seeing an overabundance of good trolls lately. This one was made even better by the dissing Americans follow-through. :lol:
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ronamick
Jul 8, 2003, 12:41 AM
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Registered: Nov 28, 2002
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The Valley has every kind of climbing that you could ever want. Pick any route and climb the first pitch, or first 3 or do 7 or 15 or 23 pitches of that route. The only limiting factor is how much daylight and how far you want to rappel back down. Hint: single pitch climbs are everywhere. When in Yosemite, go for the long routes. Top recommendation- East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock. 12- 14 pitches of 5 star classic 5.6 - 5.8 flake crack & lieback climbing, pro everywhere, bombproof belays... one 40' section of 5.10c face is the crux, protected by a bolt ladder. One other 5.9 move over a flake (with killer pro) and the rest is gravy. Enjoy.
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ronamick
Jul 8, 2003, 12:45 AM
Post #25 of 29
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In reply to: Yes.... Just a few can be found at " swan slab an manure " pile area... In the climbing store you will locate some good books... the best being by Chris McNamara...his series of SuperTopos... you can do a search here for them cheers John
Dude, you should only talk about things you know about. What a babbling fountain of misinformation! That is unless you consider thousands of one pitch climbs to be "just a few".
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